How do you mount and install a garage door opener?
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 8:20 am quote
I've seen various members posts relating to how they have installed buttons and switches for garage door openers. I currently have mine stuck to the central pillar inside my glovebox with double sided tape. But, its annoying to have to stop and open the glovebox before pulling into my driveway...

So, having a handlebar or kneepad mounted button or switch would be much better but would anybody care to talk me through it as I dont know what the button connects to or how to mount it (I only have the electrical capabilities of wiring a household plug!) and also I need to change the battery in the door opener every once in a while or do you break the opener apart and do something funky with the guts?

Regards Chubbs
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 8:42 am quote
The momentary push-to-make switch pictured below is single-hole mounting (you just need a drill bit of the right diameter) and is soldered in parallel with the push-button in the remote, which is tucked away inside the headset. The battery shouldn't need changing for years even with use several times a day, but will of course mean opening the headset again - all of five minutes start to finish.

The switch position is perfect to use - a sideways dab of the index finger finds it, but it doesn't get in the way at all when riding. The body of the remote is velcroed to the inside of the front headset plastic.

DSC00800sm.jpg



Last edited by jimc on Sun Jan 20, 2013 8:45 am; edited 1 time in total
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 8:44 am quote
I've got a mini opener that hangs on my key ring. It's only 1" x 2 1/2" and very light.

I can reach down when I pull into the driveway and activate it.
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 8:47 am quote
But can you do that on the move?
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:27 am quote
jimc wrote:
The momentary push-to-make switch pictured below is single-hole mounting (you just need a drill bit of the right diameter) and is soldered in parallel with the push-button in the remote, which is tucked away inside the headset. The battery shouldn't need changing for years even with use several times a day, but will of course mean opening the headset again - all of five minutes start to finish.

The switch position is perfect to use - a sideways dab of the index finger finds it, but it doesn't get in the way at all when riding. The body of the remote is velcroed to the inside of the front headset plastic.
I very nearly understand all of that but could you just elaborate on

"is soldered in parallel with the push-button in the remote"

My remote is a plastic rectangle with four rubber pads in a circular formation that are all the same however only the top left button opens and closes the door, whilst the top right seems to switch on the light without opening the door (which I dont need).

So how do I solder the billet button (for want of a better description) to the remote? Or do you mean solder the billet button to the handlebar? Does it have a pin that pokes out when you press it and this simply presses onto the rubber pad or is this connection what needs soldering?
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:34 am quote
You have to take the remote apart and do some soldering at the push button circuit on the back of the pc board. Easy on most remotes.
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:39 am quote
Fatboy Chubby wrote:
I very nearly understand all of that but could you just elaborate on

"is soldered in parallel with the push-button in the remote"

My remote is a plastic rectangle with four rubber pads in a circular formation that are all the same however only the top left button opens and closes the door, whilst the top right seems to switch on the light without opening the door (which I dont need).

So how do I solder the billet button (for want of a better description) to the remote? Or do you mean solder the billet button to the handlebar? Does it have a pin that pokes out when you press it and this simply presses onto the rubber pad or is this connection what needs soldering?
You'll need some thin stranded wire and a soldering iron. There will be solder pads at the back of the switch you want to operate - should be easy to spot once you open up the remote. The switch has two solder tags. Connect one to one side of the remote switch, and the other to the other with the wire. Polarity (which goes to which) is immaterial.
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:40 am quote
WEB-Tech wrote:
You have to take the remote apart and do some soldering at the push button circuit on the back of the pc board. Easy on most remotes.
Easy for you perhaps but I on the other can just about wire a plug and have never sodered before so I would have to buy a soldering iron (if that is what it is called!) Think this is beyond me already...
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:42 am quote
Jim,

What about this scheme for power?



Last edited by tomjasz on Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:42 am; edited 1 time in total
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:42 am quote
Sorry - what does 'Cage' mean? Do you mean Nicholas?

Bloody hell that looks complicated!
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:43 am quote
4 wheels, car truck etc.
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:44 am quote
jimc wrote:
Fatboy Chubby wrote:
I very nearly understand all of that but could you just elaborate on

"is soldered in parallel with the push-button in the remote"

My remote is a plastic rectangle with four rubber pads in a circular formation that are all the same however only the top left button opens and closes the door, whilst the top right seems to switch on the light without opening the door (which I dont need).

So how do I solder the billet button (for want of a better description) to the remote? Or do you mean solder the billet button to the handlebar? Does it have a pin that pokes out when you press it and this simply presses onto the rubber pad or is this connection what needs soldering?
You'll need some thin stranded wire and a soldering iron. There will be solder pads at the back of the switch you want to operate - should be easy to spot once you open up the remote. The switch has two solder tags. Connect one to one side of the remote switch, and the other to the other with the wire. Polarity (which goes to which) is immaterial.
Erm! You lost me at 'Hello!"
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:46 am quote
tomjasz wrote:
4 wheels, car truck etc.
Oh! I see - Why not just type 'car' after all you save a single press of the keyboard key
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:47 am quote
If you interrupt the battery feed, then you have to have the remote 'opening' button depressed all the time somehow, and it may interfere with the 'rolling code' algorithm that some opening systems use (most modern ones). It's also more complicated overall than just extending a second switch in parallel with the original. So unless one knows the precise operating conditions of one's remote system, I'd not recommend that solution.
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:49 am quote
Backing up even further, why ask about performing a mod you're entirely, by your own admission, unqualified to complete.
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:52 am quote
A simple way to get the job done without needing skills or tools might be to buy a universal one-button remote and secure it with Velcro or double sided tape. Here is a link with lots of choices:

http://www.aclickawayremotes.com/category/1-Btn-Remotes/index-all.html
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:52 am quote
like this is the easyist way

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=8dR6t2zCLaA
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:57 am quote
Nah! I need a photo or few to copy for the soldering (Im so much better with visual prompts) but that will only work if the photos look the same as my remote. Will take some snaps when I get home and post up later for support/discussion. If only everything in life were simple...
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:00 am quote
If that's the case I'd recommend finding an electronics-competent friend to help. Really!
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:07 am quote
Do you have a TV/Stereo repair place near you, not a lot around anymore? Get the case apart and go by and ask them to solder some wires on for you.
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:14 am quote
tomjasz wrote:
Backing up even further, why ask about performing a mod you're entirely, by your own admission, unqualified to complete.
Easy tiger- I Didn't mean to upset anybody...

I didn't know if I could complete it or not until kind souls such as yourself told me what needed to be done. Unfortunately the adage that a picture paints a thousand words is so true. Half the fun is having a go but taking something apart is so often far easier than putting it back together,etc...

What may seem so simple to one person when written down and read out is often very misleading to another
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:16 am quote
NightWing wrote:
A simple way to get the job done without needing skills or tools might be to buy a universal one-button remote and secure it with Velcro or double sided tape. Here is a link with lots of choices:

http://www.aclickawayremotes.com/category/1-Btn-Remotes/index-all.html
You don't say! I'm guessing you decided to skip my initial post then!
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:21 am quote
andyscooter wrote:
A very big round of applause - Classic Genius!!!
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:24 am quote
jimc wrote:
If that's the case I'd recommend finding an electronics-competent friend to help. Really!
You might not be surprised but I haven't got any friends jim!

I reckon in principal I've got the idea but I'm just not sure what to solder where but, don't worry that's why God invented Google and You tube-YAY!
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:26 am quote
Fatboy Chubby wrote:
tomjasz wrote:
Backing up even further, why ask about performing a mod you're entirely, by your own admission, unqualified to complete.
Easy tiger- I Didn't mean to upset anybody...

I didn't know if I could complete it or not until kind souls such as yourself told me what needed to be done. Unfortunately the adage that a picture paints a thousand words is so true. Half the fun is having a go but taking something apart is so often far easier than putting it back together,etc...

What may seem so simple to one person when written down and read out is often very misleading to another
Ignore Tom, he's just getting old and grumpy.

This could be as easy as taking your remote apart, posting pictures, we could help you determine what leads on the remote the wires need to be soldered to. Then you take it to someone who can solder it, have them solder the wires to the remote and the switch (Get a switch that mounts from the back) and all you will have to do is drill a whole to mount the switch and Velcro the remote to something.
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:31 am quote
And grumpier...

I just didn't see the point in making an issue out of a term commonly used on this forum. An immediate clarification was posted. An extra key stoke hardly seems a problem. Even for a grump.
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:35 am quote
Fatboy Chubby wrote:
You might not be surprised but I haven't got any friends jim!

I reckon in principal I've got the idea but I'm just not sure what to solder where but, don't worry that's why God invented Google and You tube-YAY!
I suspect any number of your inmates could wire it and have it open every garage door up and down the block with a single stroke.
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:54 am quote
tomjasz wrote:
Fatboy Chubby wrote:
You might not be surprised but I haven't got any friends jim!

I reckon in principal I've got the idea but I'm just not sure what to solder where but, don't worry that's why God invented Google and You tube-YAY!
I suspect any number of your inmates could wire it and have it open every garage door up and down the block with a single stroke.
Oh! Now that IS funny! Not at all bad for an old grump!
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 11:03 am quote
WEB-Tech wrote:
Fatboy Chubby wrote:
tomjasz wrote:
Backing up even further, why ask about performing a mod you're entirely, by your own admission, unqualified to complete.
Easy tiger- I Didn't mean to upset anybody...

I didn't know if I could complete it or not until kind souls such as yourself told me what needed to be done. Unfortunately the adage that a picture paints a thousand words is so true. Half the fun is having a go but taking something apart is so often far easier than putting it back together,etc...

What may seem so simple to one person when written down and read out is often very misleading to another
Ignore Tom, he's just getting old and grumpy.

This could be as easy as taking your remote apart, posting pictures, we could help you determine what leads on the remote the wires need to be soldered to. Then you take it to someone who can solder it, have them solder the wires to the remote and the switch (Get a switch that mounts from the back) and all you will have to do is drill a whole to mount the switch and Velcro the remote to something.
Perfect thank you!

So just to recap we only need to solder wire to the remote's back in two places and then in turn to the momentary button again in two places.

I got a bit confused by the wiring diagram with the connector and bike battery involvement but if the remote is using it's own internal replaceable battery then I shouldnt need to do that should I? I don't have a problem in removing the headset every once in a few years so that's ok!
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 11:08 am quote
Fatboy Chubby wrote:
NightWing wrote:
A simple way to get the job done without needing skills or tools might be to buy a universal one-button remote and secure it with Velcro or double sided tape. Here is a link with lots of choices:

http://www.aclickawayremotes.com/category/1-Btn-Remotes/index-all.html
You don't say! I'm guessing you decided to skip my initial post then!
Not true. I DID read your initial post. My thoughts were that you could pick up a very small, single button universal remote that you could stick on the outside where you wanted. That way, you still have your original remote and you could achieve your goals without tinkering.
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 11:23 am quote
NightWing wrote:
Fatboy Chubby wrote:
NightWing wrote:
A simple way to get the job done without needing skills or tools might be to buy a universal one-button remote and secure it with Velcro or double sided tape. Here is a link with lots of choices:

http://www.aclickawayremotes.com/category/1-Btn-Remotes/index-all.html
You don't say! I'm guessing you decided to skip my initial post then!
Not true. I DID read your initial post. My thoughts were that you could pick up a very small, single button universal remote that you could stick on the outside where you wanted. That way, you still have your original remote and you could achieve your goals without tinkering.
Oh! I see - humblest apologies, I've been up all night and its 5.30am...
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 1:44 pm quote
My opinion? You have the remote in the best place already with it in the glove box. It's protected from the rain. Maybe reposition it on to the inside of the glove box lid so it's easier to find.

You might be able to find one of the mini keychain openers and fasten it to your helmet strap.

Bill
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 3:18 pm quote
But that's the whole point - he doesn't want it in the glovebox because it's a PITA to stop, balance, open glovebox (possibly in the dark) and fumble around with gloves on (or even have to take them off) for his remote which has four buttons only one of which does the desired task.

I can't see what's complicated about adding a button to the headset in a convenient position...

Last edited by jimc on Sun Jan 20, 2013 3:19 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 3:19 pm quote
I gave my brother this for Christmas and he swears it is the best present he received. He installed it on his BMW but I'm going to install one on the mirror stem of my GTS when I have time.

Skylink MT-18 Motorcycle Garage Door Remote

door-remote.jpg

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Sun Jan 20, 2013 3:20 pm quote
I bet that's more than the USD3 that my solution costs...

...and where do you mount the switch, with no exposed handlebars?
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 3:33 pm quote
jimc wrote:
I bet that's more than the USD3 that my solution costs...

...and where do you mount the switch, with no exposed handlebars?
As I said on the mirror stem just above the rubber grommet. Our garage door opener only accepts 3 regular remotes but this allows you to add up I think it is 8 or 10 more remotes. It also doesn't require any soldering. Besides buying another remote for our garage door is $26.99.
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 5:05 pm quote
cdwise wrote:
jimc wrote:
I bet that's more than the USD3 that my solution costs...

...and where do you mount the switch, with no exposed handlebars?
As I said on the mirror stem just above the rubber grommet. Our garage door opener only accepts 3 regular remotes but this allows you to add up I think it is 8 or 10 more remotes. It also doesn't require any soldering. Besides buying another remote for our garage door is $26.99.
Fair enough.
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Mon Jan 21, 2013 2:27 am quote
OK will pop off to the shops and find a suitable switch and then take photos of my remote, Watch this space...
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Mon Jan 21, 2013 3:35 am quote
Fatboy Chubby wrote:
OK will pop off to the shops and find a suitable switch and then take photos of my remote, Watch this space...
Great thread, thanks for this (and the patience with the grumps).

I've wanted to do this too but like you couldn't see how I was going to find the correct points to solder, then be able to solder the extra wires without the heat destroying the remote's circuit board.

I'm hoping that some soldering tips will emerge.

I've seen "cold" soldering battery operated soldering tools. I wonder if one of those would help.

I have one of those gun-type units, but it seems too clumsy and too hot to tackle a delicate circuit board.

Like you said, Google and Youtube should have the answer.
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