Modern Vespa

clutch cable routing

I was reminded of this by the shift cable routing question. I 've started running the clutch cable down the FAR side of the column, over by the throttle cable. I haven't seen this on any I've taken out & don't know if anybody else does this, but it gives you a larger bend radius and that makes pulling in the clutch easier.



Last edited by V oodoo on Thu Jan 24, 2013 4:58 pm; edited 1 time in total

These small 4" Vise Grip knockoffs were only $1 at Lowe's so I grabbed like 10 of them & have given away some for brownie points.
I've modified them for special jobs too. This one for reforming the edge bead really should be done with a bigger tool , but the others work well.





Here's how to do your gear cables EASY and do BOTH at the same time:


better if you use a broomstick or table leg, instead of flat board for the post.





After I set bungee up, I clutched it & shifted all thru the gears, rocking tire as req'd with STILL lots of tension on BOTH lines & with NOTHING loosened by me yet.
Then I put transmission and shift handle both in neutral & viola! Look at the slack I found! If it's the back one that needs adjusting, you can put transmission & shifter grip both in 4th to get at it easier. This technique works well for clutch & brake as well.



Loosen the 7mm while holding the 8mm, slide it into notch tight w/ tip of screwdriver, tighten again & it's all adjusted where you want it. Cable ends are UNDAMAGED. And, sorry yes, my one cable IS kinda long, I have the cable holes thru the cover so I just coil it up outside.

Voodoo, you are most resourceful! Love the bungee idea.
I use the opposite cables method as I found it diificult to thread the 'normal' way. The only downside is that the speedo cable and nut tends to be hard up against the 2 cables where they cross, making it a little difficult to get the speedo back in. Otherwise, very good.

My tip is for an exhaust that has a nut & bolt through the swingarm, I ground down one side of the bolt so as to get it past the tyre easily. For the type with a captive nut, I've been meaning to fit an allen-head bolt for the same reason.
Edit:

The other one is for the castellated clutch nut. Throw it away. Just use the other kind, your knuckles will thank you.


Last edited by Ginch on Thu Jan 24, 2013 6:15 pm; edited 2 times in total

Thankyou Sir, but I think we need PICS of your exhaust bolt idea there. I was JUST discussing this problem with a friend here, so you're right on cue! If it's still half baked, finish it up STAT for crying out loud, so we can all enjoy!

Meanwhile I'll drag another contributor in here, no need to pull those cylinder studs kids. No pics needed: Hint: if you have a long 3/8 rod you can switch that long pivot bolt end for end WITHOUT dropping the motor. Start the rod in as you draw the bolt out, then push the rod thru with the bolt from the other side.

Disclaimer: Am told it won't work w/ big kits on 200 motors

Nice!

Replacing speedo cable outer.

Pull the inner out of the headset. Slide the old (or new if the old one asploded) inner in backwards...from the tire up to the headset.

Pull the old outer, use the backwards inner as a guide for the new outer then pull the inner and install from the top of the headset.

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Good idea G... That's always been one of my pet peeves.. wider tires make it even worse. I think I may chop one up.. LIKE YOU! I think I can find a washer though! I do believe we have those here! (I can send you one if need be!)

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why don't you guys talk about tips from that sort of personal experience in your OWN threads? save me the trouble of crapping in them

that'd be my tip for you two today

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This tread remains open for constructive entries.

Carry on gentlemen.

How about reattaching the 2-stroke oil reserve to the gas tank without the special tool?

Gonna try it soon, looks like a real bugger.

You mean the plastic tank? I use two shorter extensions and a socket. Easy peasy.

Holy goddamn shit. What an exceptional idea. I am totally going to try this on my Jet. May be a bit cramped so I may have to take the rear shock off.

Thumbs up on this one.

K. That is what I thought, might need a wobble socket to make it easier to seat, but that was it.

Manual shows a smaller version of the fuel tap wrench to put it in there.

I put my gear lube in a plastic ketchup like bottle so I can just squeeze it in the little filler hole.

I got a big 100cc syringe and use it for that

Stuck without a mixing cup? Find a drugstore and buy a baby bottle...works like a champ!

That is pretty slick! Believe it or not the orange store was having the same kind of sale on grips...I picked up 4 or 5.

Oh cool, I love teriyaki sauce!

Edit: LABEL your containers, so you and others know what is in them.

Last edited by rgconner on Fri Jan 25, 2013 11:06 pm; edited 1 time in total

Instead of a ketchup bottle, go to a sally beauty or any other beauty suply shop and get a hair dye aplication bottle, they have the ml and oz marks. I got one with a long angled nozzel that works great.

i like this Terry, but my trick is a nightmare for some of you, hope it help

homemade jig when it come to replace a floorboard, prevent ur frame from twisting



cheapo floor rail out of toilet trim


longer clutch stud out of brass


have a nice day to you all and cheer

Here's something else that I forgot about until just now.

Sometimes you need an electric start... maybe for testing or checking something. I ground down a cheapo socket extension and put it in my big drill. Turns it over pretty fast. Not something I use often, but a couple of times it's been very handy.

Edit: Be careful with this... no problems when the spark plug is out, but when it's in your electric drill will want to turn and tear out of your hands if you're not careful.
Thanks to SFvsr for pointing that out.



Last edited by Ginch on Thu Jan 24, 2013 6:12 pm; edited 2 times in total

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This is a good way to check for spark (Courtesy of Voodoo).. you don't have to hold the plug and try and kick the bike which can be awkward, and sometimes Shocking! (in the worst way).

Pictures are pretty self explanatory... two sparks plugs and a pice or thick wire... 1st plug in the head... 2nd plug attached to plug wire... wire in between... simple, effective and pain free!

*Addition.. this test doesn't insure the plug is actually firing in the head, as the plug still may be fouled or otherwise damaged, but it does show that your stator, points, coil, CDI, etc are functioning and you are getting spark TO your plug. (make sure you are using a good plug to begin with)







Last edited by Vader19 on Thu Jan 24, 2013 3:02 pm; edited 1 time in total

thankyou i feel truly honored .......... now can i have my nail varnish back

This link will take you to my Flickr set with the how I did it. Incredibly simple.
1. Get some lights
2. Get some rubber stoppers and a M12 bolt with nylok nut and a stack of stainless washers (I used 3)
3. Drill a hole
4. Install assembly
5. Connect to power.

This will also work for a Vespa with zero changes.

I will be updating the set to include the rear of the assembly, the dimensions of the stoppers, and the wiring.



Hella Lamp on Jet 200 by SFvsr, on Flickr

This is a fool proof way to replace your cables (Inners and outers)

Don't mess around with electrical tape, duct tape, Gorilla tape etc.

1) Get a roll of 20-22 gauge steel wire (Any hardware store)

2) Cut a piece of the wire Twice the length of the cable + 1 foot on each end (just to be safe)

3) Pull the inner cable out of the outer sleeve while the outer sleeve is still in place on the scooter.

4) Feed the steel wire through the OLD cable outer.

5) Remove the inner cable from the NEW cable. (set aside)

6) Slide the NEW cable outer over the remainder of the steel wire (the 1st 1/2 of the length of wire has already been fed through the OLD cable outer.

7) With the steel wire running through both the new and old cable outers, simply pull the OLD outer while pushing the NEW outer with your other hand. (you can tie a knot in the steel wire, but it's really not necessary) The steel wire will guide the path for the NEW cable outer and Wha-la! Your new outer will be in place.

Pull the steel wire out from both outers. (toss the old outer, and save the steel wire for your other cables) (then save it for another day)

9) Feed the NEW cable INNER through the NEW outer!

DONE!

This method really is fool proof!.... and when it's this easy, it's actually fun!


* For the rear brake cable outer (since it dead-ends inside the frame tunnel, I simply pull the old outer off (leaving the old inner to slide the new outer onto), clip any frayed end off the old inner, and slide the new outer into place... then pull the OLD inner out from the Pedal side and slide the new inner in.


As I'm pushing the NEW inners in (from the headset) and pulling the OLD outers out from the bottom (engine side)

You can tie a knot.. but it's not necessary.. jut leave an extra foot of wire at either end and it's all good.

I pull both gear cables at the same time.

Wire runs through the OLD outer and NEW outer (inners have been removed) (OLD outer is still in place in the scooter)

Steel wire into OLD outer

Any hardware store should have wire

That's how I do it. I just use heavy picture hanging wire(similar to brake or gear cable except in longer lengths) with a cable clamp/nipple instead of a knot. I like this setup because the picture hanging wire is flexible and I can keep it rolled up in my tool box.

repost, but maybe good here too if somebody needs to find it later.

Please feel free to quote yourself if you posted a good tip in the past & aren't sure if it belongs here.
Think about it, we might never find your old post when we need it!
yeah, been there. PS Also was suggested to post brief relevant 'header', like lock missing key above, to make searching actually work. If you posted a tip without one, please edit one in?

Last edited by V oodoo on Thu Jan 24, 2013 4:34 pm; edited 1 time in total

Yep! That'll work too!
I just prefer the stiffer wire, but works same! Easy!

Not the best depiction of how to rake and pick a lock.....

Obviously this video was made by someone who is not a locksmith.

You need to rake the pins fast.........very fast. A lot faster than your wee video above. Starting at the back of the lock working forward in a firm raking sweep. Picking a lock is about tension on the cylinder, flat spring steel works best.

Old Vespa locks are easy to pick, there are only 4 pins.

Cheers

Clearest inner & outer recable I've seen yet & w/ PICS!

Vader, you're using annealed wire, stiffer than the flex picture wire. I also like to use piano wire sometimes when you need it REALLY stiff*, it's like the wire on the choke. I love options.







*what? you were expecting something off topic?

Agreed, I did it more like you described, but couldn't find a gif like that.

And 'tensioning lever' is MUCH better than 'turning lever', BUT a bobby pin IS flat spring steel, so works pretty good shaped like this so you can lightly vary the tension at the end of the long lever arm.

I__________________________

Yes.

When I'm done with it!

This is neither new nor revolutionary, However! it has come up many times in the past and I thought it a good tip for a new SI carb user!

So.. SI carb user... you'll quickly notice that the air mix screw in the back of the carb is in a rather tricky place to be adjusted. It's possible to get in there with a Micro ratchet wrench, but that's still not all that great...

So.. EASY tip, is to simply cut in a slot for a flathead screwdriver.... this way you can pull the plug from the back of the carb box (if you have one) or just go in through the hole with a long skinny flathead and Wha-la! Adjust until your mix is correct and your heart's content!

*this may not work with every version of SI carb (I'm not familiar with every year, make and model, but it's good for a heck of a lot of them)


That little brass guy with a spring down in there is who we're talking about!

A simple cutting wheel on a Dremel tool, or even a hacksaw and/or file will do the trick!