Random tricks, share your best little tips & shortcuts
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Evil
p2, jet2, lml166
Joined: 17 May 2013
Posts: 666
Location: Philadelphia, United States
Tue Aug 20, 2013 7:27 am quote
SFvsr wrote:
This link will take you to my Flickr set with the how I did it. Incredibly simple.
1. Get some lights
2. Get some rubber stoppers and a M12 bolt with nylok nut and a stack of stainless washers (I used 3)
3. Drill a hole
4. Install assembly
5. Connect to power.

This will also work for a Vespa with zero changes.

I will be updating the set to include the rear of the assembly, the dimensions of the stoppers, and the wiring.



Hella Lamp on Jet 200 by SFvsr, on Flickr
please. i want to put one additional on my p2.
Primasarah
1979 P200E, 1977 Rally 200, 1974 Primavera
Joined: 15 Mar 2011
Posts: 3087
Location: Lake Worth, FL
Tue Aug 20, 2013 7:48 am quote
Chris, does it run off the AC of your bike?
Style Maven
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa PK50XL2 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special '66(?) Super125
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7765
Location: seattle/athens
Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:33 pm quote
Bargain Mirror Mounts
(@Travis - I just hooked a switch to a fuse & the battery on my Cosa.)

I just love this one, thanks Mr Eastwood! Did you make the rear rack out of something you repurposed too?
Clinteastwood wrote:
Ever notice it's hard to see past your elbows in your rear-view mirrrors? Aftermarket brackets and stems are expensive and long ones are a little hard to come by. I was poking around a building supply junkyard one day and found what I thought would be the perfect answer--an L-shaped piece of steel with holes drilled in almost the exact location I needed for the bolts (just under the handlebars) attaching my P125Xs mirror brackets.

Trouble was........there was only one of them--but how could I go wrong for only $3? Later I found out where to get another identical one for the other mirror--brand new--only $8--at your local garage door opener shop. It's called a J arm. I had to drill the holes just slightly larger to make them fit, and put a color-matched bolt-nut in the extra hole, but from there it was a simple bolt-on mod.

Now my wide body can more safely ride my wide body.











Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7662
Location: Victoria, Australia
Mon Aug 26, 2013 1:43 am quote
Rob98801 wrote:
I run tubes in my tubeless tires, when I mount the tubes I just slightly inflate them so they don't get pinched as the rims comes together. Just makes it a little easier I think.
Style Maven
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa PK50XL2 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special '66(?) Super125
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7765
Location: seattle/athens
Mon Sep 09, 2013 12:04 am quote
Reference Links attached
I have edited the first entry on page one so it will be easier to steer new ppl to this info without having to post it every time separately.

PLEASE let me know of other useful links for reliable info, and I'll add to the list.

Thanks.
Style Maven
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa PK50XL2 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special '66(?) Super125
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7765
Location: seattle/athens
Mon Sep 09, 2013 5:54 pm quote
Front Disk Brake Master Cylinder DIY


Disc brake setup for oldie

Thinking about a front disk brake conversion? Here's a nice project thread with lots of pics by Mr Ginch. Great job on the brake AND the writeup, thanks.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7662
Location: Victoria, Australia
Sun Sep 15, 2013 7:31 pm quote
A rack is a nice thing to have, especially when it's attached to a cool scoot like Voodoo's.

It's not something I like to see all the time though, I just put it on when I need it. So instead of doing up the long clamp bolts when I use it, I took them off altogether and use a rubber bungee cord hooked on the legshield edges... takes maybe 30 seconds to fit or remove. Not recommended in high-pilferage neighbourhoods!

Addicted
P125X, P200E
Joined: 02 Apr 2011
Posts: 686
Location: Fresno, CA
Sun Sep 15, 2013 7:42 pm quote
The bicycle bell is a nice touch!
Enthusiast
vnb 59
Joined: 29 Aug 2013
Posts: 83
Location: coventry
Wed Sep 18, 2013 11:21 am quote
great read
Style Maven
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa PK50XL2 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special '66(?) Super125
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7765
Location: seattle/athens
Wed Sep 18, 2013 6:26 pm quote
Bodywork tips
From todays posts, this time a couple of bodywork hints:
V oodoo wrote:
318ti wrote:
...
Muti colors can trick the eyes so I like to then shoot a light coat of primer. Then work it with the hammers. To check your work spray a mist of another color over it and sand with a block. Paint stays in the low spots.
Plus one on this tip. I buy 3 or 4 different color primers for exactly this reason, and switch off on each pass at fixing the places needing more bodywork. I can always tell how deep I am & what needs pushing out a little more.

Nice if you can do all metal and have it look good. If it was beat up w/ lot's of dents & dings, that might be tuff, unless you can do some of the old school work mentioned above.

If not, here's another tip I learned from a pro if you're gonna do any skim coating on the rough areas. I assume you already know NOT to use Bondo, use only a pro grade product that is designed to flex with the sheet metal or you WILL have cracking over time. The little tip is before you apply your skim coat, lightly hammer any shiny bare metal high spots back into the frame( or cowl, etc) slightly so they are no longer 'high'. Now when you sand down your skimcoat, they won't all just reappear.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7662
Location: Victoria, Australia
Thu Sep 19, 2013 2:21 pm quote
Measuring ring gap
Here's one that I keep coming back to:
chuckactor wrote:
Before you put the cylinder on it's good to check the ring gap. You do this by inserting the rings into the cylinder. You can use the piston to press them in and make sure they are square to the bore. The Pinasco kit does not come with any recommended guidelines. I used the following rule of thumb:

Compression ring - 0.004" per inch of bore
2nd ring - 0.005" per inch of bore

Just multiply the bore diameter in inches (2.72") by the guideline. For the top ring it works out to around 0.011" and the 2nd ring is about 0.014". The stock ring gap measured around 0.009". I used a small flat file to adjust the gap of the rings. If you want to spend some more time with a file, you can use a round file to round the edges of the ring end that goes against the locating pin in the piston. This is an old racing trick. The idea is to keep the sharp edge of the ring from rubbing against the piston ring pin and working it out of the top of the piston. If that tiny little pin falls out then the ring is free to rotate. Usually it will rotate around until the ends of the ring are inside one of the ports. At this point the ring jams in the port and all hell breaks loose...


Full thread - P200 Performance Build-Up

Edit: (this will appear further down the page but it's useful to have it here)
spiderwebb wrote:
The measuring should be done a bit further into the bore than is shown in this picture. Use the piston to even slide the rings in question into bore as is shown in picture. When piston gudgeon pin is 1/2 gone remove piston and measure the ring end gap. Repeat with other ring.

As you all know the bore is tapered a very slight amount from the bottom to the top. This is done so that after a barrel gets up to temp it is a perfect cylinder top to bottom and vice versa.


Last edited by Ginch on Wed Aug 08, 2018 1:18 pm; edited 2 times in total
Molto Verboso
'74 Rally, '72 Sprint
Joined: 30 May 2013
Posts: 1143
Location: Melbourne, London, Durham NC
Thu Sep 19, 2013 3:18 pm quote
Ginch wrote:
Here's one that I keep coming back to:
chuckactor wrote:
Before you put the cylinder on it's good to check the ring gap. You do this by inserting the rings into the cylinder. You can use the piston to press them in and make sure they are square to the bore. The Pinasco kit does not come with any recommended guidelines. I used the following rule of thumb:

Compression ring - 0.004" per inch of bore
2nd ring - 0.005" per inch of bore

Just multiply the bore diameter in inches (2.72") by the guideline. For the top ring it works out to around 0.011" and the 2nd ring is about 0.014". The stock ring gap measured around 0.009". I used a small flat file to adjust the gap of the rings. If you want to spend some more time with a file, you can use a round file to round the edges of the ring end that goes against the locating pin in the piston. This is an old racing trick. The idea is to keep the sharp edge of the ring from rubbing against the piston ring pin and working it out of the top of the piston. If that tiny little pin falls out then the ring is free to rotate. Usually it will rotate around until the ends of the ring are inside one of the ports. At this point the ring jams in the port and all hell breaks loose...


Full thread - P200 Performance Build-Up
Great timing Ginch. I am putting my bike back together this weekend, with new pinasco kit. Fingers crossed the whole things goes smoothly. Would live it to be on the road next week. I think we are due to see the sun.
Style Maven
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa PK50XL2 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special '66(?) Super125
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7765
Location: seattle/athens
Thu Sep 19, 2013 7:25 pm quote
Main jets cheap and Choke Detent
Good catch Ginch. And here's a tip I've posted elsewhere a couple of times, but Spidey includes a link. They also have sets for smallframe carbs.
YAY Jet200!
spiderwebb wrote:
check the Jet200.com site
look in the vespas section

there should be a set of jets for your carb there
great deal
BGM jets

10 for 15 bucks


if you buy one at a time each costs 4.99 plus shipping


here is a link for the SI carb
http://jet200.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2135
Abuello wrote:
Hey Lynnb
To improve the holding grip of that choke clip, I marked the choke stem at the point the represented being "full on". I used a Dremel tiny cutting tool and scored a shallow grove (detent) in the stem. This is an awesome improvement.
...
Thanks Ken, so simple but effective!
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7662
Location: Victoria, Australia
Tue Sep 24, 2013 12:44 pm quote
Cylinder head temperature sensor location
Here's a question that always comes up, so it's great to see it answered so well here - CHT Location

Hooked
Vespa PX200
Joined: 27 Jun 2010
Posts: 394
Location: Belgrade
Thu Oct 03, 2013 3:05 am quote
After years of struggling with heat guns and drifts and hammering and cursing to get my bearings in -- and sometimes damaging things in the process -- I finally, on a whim, tried the bake-your-engine-cases-in-the-oven trick. 30 minutes at 200 C later, I was all ready to go with my hammer and drifts and THOOP! My fly side bearing (which sat overnight in the freezer) just dropped in with a little force from my thumb.

I am a convert. I can't remember the last time a trick like this brought me such joy.

And no, I'm not embarrassed by that last statement. This is frickin' awesome.
Hooked
150 GLx, Rally 200
Joined: 09 Jun 2013
Posts: 256
Location: Netherlands
Mon Oct 07, 2013 5:14 am quote
Heard from an old mechanic they used to use hot plates for warming carters and dropping in bearings back in the day.
Evil
p2, jet2, lml166
Joined: 17 May 2013
Posts: 666
Location: Philadelphia, United States
Wed Oct 09, 2013 7:53 am quote
been thinking of doing this for a bit. tried colored thin velcro strips i used to color code front-of-house sound system cables with, but they were a little too short. Reg velcro strips may work, but in the meantime i'm using tube clamps. the containers are from home depot. i've just been meaning to utilize under my seat for storage for some time, free up some room in the old squirrel box.

my girlfriend weighs a buck twenty and says she cant feel it. i'm going to be lining the back end of the seat three up before long.

IMG_0703.JPG

Addicted
P125X, P200E
Joined: 02 Apr 2011
Posts: 686
Location: Fresno, CA
Wed Oct 09, 2013 8:56 am quote
I agree with BigBen Underseat space can be very useful. I have various papers in the envelope in the plastic bag under the springs and I have a lightweight windbreaker in a plastic bag under the bungie cord... and of course, I have the bungie cord if I ever need it. Keeps me from cluttering up my glove box.

DSC01180.JPG

Addicted
P125X, P200E
Joined: 02 Apr 2011
Posts: 686
Location: Fresno, CA
Mon Oct 21, 2013 10:58 am quote
Iíve been doing the chain-through-the-sleeves trick to lock my jacket to my luggage rack for a long time but Iíve just come up with something more convenient.

I added a grommet to the right side of the hem of my jacket just below the pocket and now I thread it through the helmet lock along with the helmet.

Of course, it wonít stop the serious thief, however it might deter him enough that he moves on to the next scooter.

DSC01182 - Copy.JPG

DSC01183 - Copy.JPG

DSC01184 - Copy.JPG

DSC01185 - Copy.JPG

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7662
Location: Victoria, Australia
Sun Oct 27, 2013 3:00 am quote
Correct gear orientation
Vader19 wrote:
These are P200 gears.. all of these pics show the OUTER side of the gear, meaning the side you would see from the engine side of the bike while putting the gears on the shaft.

All gears Outer faces


1st gear Outer face


2nd gear Outer face


3rd gear Outer face


4th gear Outer face
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7662
Location: Victoria, Australia
Sun Oct 27, 2013 3:16 am quote
Vader19 wrote:
Here are pics at an angle of the INSIDE of each of the 4 gears..
Again, these are the INSIDE faces of the gears, facing Away from you as you put them into the motor.

1st gear Inside face


2nd gear Inside face


3rd gear Inside face


4th gear Inside face

Thanks to Vader for the pics and effort!
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7662
Location: Victoria, Australia
Thu Oct 31, 2013 11:13 pm quote
Vader19 wrote:
Here's one of my EFL stacks all together... you can see the spacing
Style Maven
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa PK50XL2 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special '66(?) Super125
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7765
Location: seattle/athens
Fri Nov 01, 2013 12:36 pm quote
old tip simplified


I didn't have my 2 grooved visegrips with me, so what to do...

Eureka! If you have a couple extra pinch bolt handy just use them .

Img_0935.jpg

Img_0934.jpg
You can see it works on smallies too.

Ossessionato
2 matching N.Z. '69 VBC Super, 177cc Racer, VespaCross Bodge, Puch SRA150, Piaggio Zip 100! & others
Joined: 26 May 2013
Posts: 3965
Location: That bushfire place
Fri Nov 01, 2013 4:02 pm quote
I upgraded my couch, and as th old one was heading to th gate it ended up next to my Vespa, they seemed like a good match! Padding to protect th paint and side panels, plus cushions to kneel on while working.

image.jpg

Addicted
06 GT200, 77 P200. Springer Harley
Joined: 09 Jun 2012
Posts: 527
Location: Cayo Hueso: an Island at the end of the road
Tue Dec 03, 2013 8:15 am quote
homemade spring puller for center stand spring:
i took a hardened phillips screwdriver and heated it up and bent it into an L at the end. (dipped it in oil
i buzzed a little notch into it to keep the spring from slipping off.
ive been using it for many many years for a ton of stuff but originally made it for springs on brakes.
it works very well and slips right off with a twist when you need it to.
its also good for grabbing washers that fall into weird places...

spring_tool_20491.png

Style Maven
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa PK50XL2 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special '66(?) Super125
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7765
Location: seattle/athens
Tue Dec 10, 2013 2:38 pm quote
Clutch assembly & fuel leak detection - twofer
Here's how I reassembled my smallframe clutch. The horizontal orientation made it easy to get everything aligned properly. Using a 27mm socket and a short extension gives you plenty of room to work. I turned the drill chuck all the way closed so it pilots nicely into the square hole in the extension.



While my corks were soaking I tracked down a fuel leak that wasn't fixed with a new float needle and was bugging me(I often forget to turn off the fuel tap ). I like to test the WHOLE system so I hang the tank from bungees & the carb from some bailing wire. Open the fuel tap and observe...



In this case the little red fiber washer on the inlet fitting bolt was too far gone & needed to be replaced. No more puddles!
Addicted
SS208, SX250 , RD's and a K1300s and an RZ350 and TZR250
Joined: 30 Sep 2012
Posts: 567

Wed Dec 11, 2013 7:12 pm quote
nice on the manual press!
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7662
Location: Victoria, Australia
Mon Dec 23, 2013 3:52 pm quote
Engine mount removal - TrumpyScooter method
You can click on the pictures for bigger versions.
TrumpyScooter wrote:
Need to replace the rubber engine mount bushings ?

Time to do: 40 minutes
What you need to start with



Wiggle a slotted screwdriver between the 2 rods and force a washer in between.



Repeat using another smaller diameter washer. Also leverage the rod apart as much as possible.



and another. Try and get at least 1cm distance with the washers. a nut will go there eventually.



Regularly jam the screwdriver down the side of the rubber to relieve the pressure youve made by putting the washers between the rods. Wiggle the tube by oscilating the screwdriver down through the tube. By now youve got some of the rubber showing at the end. If the rubber is old and flacid then youll need more washers. Likewise if the rod is stripping out from the centre.



Now youll need some 10mm threaded rod for the rear (6 mm for the front) with at least 2 inches past the centre of the tubes.
Replace the washers with a nut. Then pass the rod down the tubes and thread it onto the nut. i just used a small piston ring compressor as a spacer at the other end, but any thing that will sit on the outside diameter of the case will do. I slid a puller collet down the rod to sit on top of the spacer. But again there will be other things you can use. It will need to be sturdy though as there is a few pounds of pressure on them. Use a spanner to stop the nut from turning, and it will pull the bush out. Put a *EDIT* NYLOC nut on the end of the rod and tap * THE FREE END, PUT A NUT ON IT SO YOU DONT DAMAGE THE THREADS* to shock the bush to release, but its rubber so it may not work. every little bit helps.



Now its out enough, oscilate the screwdriver down the tube to release it even more then it should come clear pretty easliy.



Cheers


Last edited by Ginch on Sat May 16, 2015 5:06 pm; edited 1 time in total
Addicted
Joined: 01 Jan 2012
Posts: 629

Mon Dec 23, 2013 4:16 pm quote
Re: Measuring ring gap
Ginch wrote:
Here's one that I keep coming back to:
chuckactor wrote:
Before you put the cylinder on it's good to check the ring gap. You do this by inserting the rings into the cylinder. You can use the piston to press them in and make sure they are square to the bore. The Pinasco kit does not come with any recommended guidelines. I used the following rule of thumb:

Compression ring - 0.004" per inch of bore
2nd ring - 0.005" per inch of bore

Just multiply the bore diameter in inches (2.72") by the guideline. For the top ring it works out to around 0.011" and the 2nd ring is about 0.014". The stock ring gap measured around 0.009". I used a small flat file to adjust the gap of the rings. If you want to spend some more time with a file, you can use a round file to round the edges of the ring end that goes against the locating pin in the piston. This is an old racing trick. The idea is to keep the sharp edge of the ring from rubbing against the piston ring pin and working it out of the top of the piston. If that tiny little pin falls out then the ring is free to rotate. Usually it will rotate around until the ends of the ring are inside one of the ports. At this point the ring jams in the port and all hell breaks loose...


Full thread - P200 Performance Build-Up
The measuring should be done a bit further into the bore than is shown in this picture. Use the piston to even slide the rings in question into bore as is shown in picture. When piston gudgeon pin is 1/2 gone remove piston and measure the ring end gap. Repeat with other ring.

As you all know the bore is tapered a very slight amount from the bottom to the top. This is done so that after a barrel gets up to temp it is a perfect cylinder top to bottom and vice versa.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7662
Location: Victoria, Australia
Mon Dec 23, 2013 5:43 pm quote
Thanks Spiderwebb, I edited the original post to include your info.
Style Maven
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa PK50XL2 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special '66(?) Super125
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7765
Location: seattle/athens
Tue Dec 24, 2013 11:59 am quote
Eliminating the battery on a Rally
Put where it can be found more easily, I'm getting ready to do it. Thanks to Chris for the info.
SFvsr wrote:
Ground one of the yellows to the frame. Connect the other yellow to a 12v regulator*. Attach the wire out of the regulator to the primary red and the green/white. DON'T mess with any of the wires from the stator at the junction. Only stuff you mess with is on the battery side. Toss that battery in the garbage. And find a sucker who will buy that rectifier/regulator because it is "rare."

There you go Sherlock. It's pretty stupid fucking easy. Send me a Christmas card.

Oh - and don't change the bulbs from the 6v. Leave them and they'll be fine, believe it or not.
* Here's the recommended regulator

Edit: This seems to work well on any stator that has the two yellow wires coming out.
SEEMS to, no gaurantees but I did it to a Primavera and a Sprint w/ no problems so far and nice bright lights. Knock on wood.

Last edited by V oodoo on Wed Jul 30, 2014 1:43 pm; edited 1 time in total
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7662
Location: Victoria, Australia
Turnkey 79
2 helmets, 2 jackets, 4 spark plugs, 2 rear bulbs, some bolts, a spring, an ET rear rack, clear indicators and half a can of unleaded, but no bike!
Joined: 14 Jan 2011
Posts: 3646
Location: The British Countryside
Wed Feb 26, 2014 6:55 pm quote
like this one
Turnkey 79
2 helmets, 2 jackets, 4 spark plugs, 2 rear bulbs, some bolts, a spring, an ET rear rack, clear indicators and half a can of unleaded, but no bike!
Joined: 14 Jan 2011
Posts: 3646
Location: The British Countryside
Wed Feb 26, 2014 7:04 pm quote
Spammers and wrenches into tool hooks

IMG_20140227_030050.jpg

Ossessionato
'09 250 GTSie '75 Rally 200 '79 P200 '09 Stella 221
Joined: 13 May 2012
Posts: 2554
Location: Midway, Kentucky
Thu Feb 27, 2014 12:37 am quote
I picked up some really helpful tips reading this thread. I appreciate everyone's contributions. Has anyone considered placing this thread up in the stickies?
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7662
Location: Victoria, Australia
Fri Feb 28, 2014 12:19 am quote
How to tell a 3-port case from a 2-port
rob hodge wrote:
fun fact- want an easy way to identify two port cases from three port without any disassembly? the third port was added pretty much concurrently with the change in exhaust mounting. if there is a flat spot on the front of the swingarm and the hole for the exaust mounting bolt goes all the way thru the swingarm, it's a thee port case.
Thanks Rob.

Last edited by Ginch on Sat May 16, 2015 5:41 pm; edited 2 times in total
Addicted
Rally 200, SS 180, ET3
Joined: 21 Feb 2010
Posts: 683
Location: UK
Fri Feb 28, 2014 5:15 pm quote
Loose exhausts sip road ali cylinders
Trouble with exhaust coming lose on ali cylinder stub?

2 things to try - make a shim from an old aluminum drinks can and wrap around the stub. This should provide a better fit for the exhaust.

Cut another slot in the end of the pipe, the same length as the existing 2 x slots - see pic

I also added a spring i had laying around, hooked onto the exhaust clamp bolt and the other end hooked onto a hole i drilled in one of the cylinder head fins. it's more of a back up.

tn_24062011611.jpg
SIP Road

tn_24062011612.jpg
SIP Road

tn_24062011607.jpg
SIP Road

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7662
Location: Victoria, Australia
Fri Feb 28, 2014 5:26 pm quote
You could do this too if you don't care how it looks.

P1020569.JPG

Addicted
Rally 200, SS 180, ET3
Joined: 21 Feb 2010
Posts: 683
Location: UK
Fri Feb 28, 2014 5:43 pm quote
Ivor
hahahaha

a bit over engineered for me !!
Molto Verboso
px200
Joined: 13 Apr 2010
Posts: 1265
Location: london
Mon Apr 14, 2014 8:22 am quote
Hello

Replace the screws in Vespa cable terminals/trunnions with allen grub screws (but not the ones with points), also replaced the hex bolt holding the speedo cable plate on the front hub with a allen cap head screw.
Can use an offset allen key to tighten.

Grumpy
Cross Egypt Challenge - A 2400km ride throughout Egypt   Vespa Wasp Pin Badges   Yelcome Leather Top Cases and Roll Bags for Piaggio Vespa PX LX LXV GTS GTV
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