Thanks Jack - I'm having fun with it, and taking my time. If I can keep doing that, all is golden.
you're picking up this engine splitting thing fast.
Do you mean open the hole by 10mm or just fan out the inside 10mm? I'm assuming the hole. I'll probably chicken out and only do a few mm..
If you took the back of the inlet out 10mm it would have a bit more torque and uphill pull.
I'll check it out, thanks!
While in there fit the carb box and blend it all in together. Some have some nasty edges between the two.
I'm going to give it a go. It seems OK, but what do I know. Like you said, we'll find out soon enough!
I would be concerned about using that old crank. It may be fine, it may not. Assuming its tight now and no visible rust in there, the proof will be in a few hundred miles time.
I wish I knew what this looked like. Like a Before and After. Or maybe a paper "Original" and the Paper "After". I'll search for a thread, but I haven't had any success in this earlier. Thank you for this though. It tells me this is the way to go.
While in the cylinder with a Dremel it would be rude not to dress the exhaust port. The original intention is 38.8mm from deck to the inside of the port. If its less don't worry but if its more you could do a bit of 'blueprinting' (for a bit extra 38mm holding the same shape has good results).
OK, cool - I just didn't know so I figured better to be safe than sorry. I've seen some pictures of some messed up rotary pads - like a bearing exploded or something went down the carb throat like a screw. Yeah, the overhead had to have been from someone putting the wrong kind of oil in the oil tank. It was almost blocked solid. Even after I drained the oil I couldn't blow air through the filler. Rinsing it with gas did the trick!
Edit: btw that rotary inlet is fine. There are way worse running very well. The marks are just from an overheat, probably the same time the piston was damaged. I would assume from a lack of 2 stroke oil.
Thanks again for your insight - I sure appreciate it!