Modern Vespa

Super awesome mate. Really cool and looks great. Top shed work.

Thanks all. Actually moving forward quickly now. Can see the end of the dry build in sight =)

Question: Currently the JB engine mounts touch directly to the reinforced frame. The pivot bolt is held by a lock washer - there are no others. Is this correct? Feel like there should be more washers...

I seem to recall the VBB had flanged inserts for the mounting holes on the frame and a smaller mount bolt. This setup above may have been my 'solution' to get the motor in. Can't remember for sure. Just looking at it and thinking it will wear the frame itself.

Anyone know the 'correct' way to mount a p200 in a vbb? Like the hardware/fastenings?

Cheers!

Also beat out the frame to fit the rear shock reservoir (easier than expected)...

Starting to think about where/how to mount the battery and run the wiring.

That long pivot bolt is just held on by that single lock washer. It kinda sucks like that because it tears up the paint when it’s tightened down. Sometimes if you get lucky, you can slip a thin flat washer behind the lock washer.

Let the fun begin!

Dry fitting a project when you finally have everything rounded up or fabricated and you're not sure how things are gonna work together is my favorite part. Don't have to be so careful with getting stuff adjusted perfectly yet and all the fasteners just so. It's like a race to see where the problems are and hope they are little ones easily sorted. Now you see how easy it is to start changing your plan as you watch the bike materialize.

Pheas'
No inserts in frame on stock VBB.
I did find bolt allowed play between bolt shank and ID of mount tube - which I didn't like - so I shimmed with steel to give higher precision between bolt shank and ID of mount.

VBB frame mount hole is a bit flimsy in my view, but not terrible.
You could opt for a large washer welded internally or externally to spread load from bolt shank - but guessing overkill at this juncture - and would require longer bolt at minimum. Would expect you to be fine with stock frame as is.

Yup, all largeframes use the same center bolt... 14 x 240 mm... and just a split washer under the nut on the clutch side. As charlieman said, check for play in the mounting tubes. If the center bolt doesn’t fit snugly you’ll get crazy vibrations throughout the frame.

Yeah I saw CM22s work in the pivot bolt shim. Meant to check that but forgot... to busy pounding out the frame.

I’m almost certain my VBB had these odd top hat washers as part of the mounting. Will see if I can find the old bits amongst the madness in my shed.

The only thing that takes up more room in my shed than a Vespa is a dismantled Vespa.

Motivation to get it back together ASAP!

Looks like everything is coming alone.

You have the battery location about right based on the GL frame that came with a battery. The big hole location at the top in the picture below should not apply for a VBB because GL cowls are made different and hide that wiring hole.

You could try a p battery holder but you could prob make something like this fit your battery. https://www.sip-scootershop.com/EN/Products/23077000/Battery+Mount+for+Vespa+150+T2.aspx?_country=E993AB67-6807-4109-BBED-F6374EBF9F9B&gpc_origin=shopping&gpc_feed_alias=de&gpc_pid=23077000&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhJrqBRDZARIsALhp1WTJYCHBbMQJ90kkLfwzAlVWTUuKSL_8bgDKWHFan3JOlvhfULFTlXMaArgnEALw_wcB


red marks and circle is where the battery tray should go on a GL

SIP battery tray with strap

I have been toying with the idea of putting the battery in the glove box. But then I’d have to make a new loom...

Will be easy to make a holder - plenty of angle aluminum in the shed. Being a tiny battery needs a fairly custom holder - can buy specific ‘antigravity’ CNC machined holders for a few times the price of a normal battery...

There are small lugs on the VBB under where I put the battery - maybe the reg/rec went there? Regardless, gives me something to mount to without having to drill or weld.

I suppose you could always mount the battery and R/R under the fuel tank (that's what i did with my pink PK200XL). You could run a SAE pigtail through the side of the frame so you can charge it back up if needed. Yes it won't be easily accessible, but how often has anybody changed out a battery on the side of the road? It would also make for a super clean setup, and it would create extra space for other other things you want to carry.

I did think of that. But not keen on the idea of having a potential ignition source under the fuel tank... that I sit on! Would only take a small leak to go bad.

Have a solution for back-up charging that wont need the battery removed. But want to avoid externally charging LiPO3 batteries where possible. The 'correct' chargers are $$$. Can use decent car chargers I've heard. No trickle chargers though.

I've never used a LiPO3, so i can't comment on how to charge them. I have been using Shorai and EarthX (LiFePO4) batteries for quite some time in other scooter and motos, and haven't had any trouble maintaining them with a $20 Battery Tender. Both those companies recommend using their own special charger, but they also say that using a Battery Tender would not damage it. I wasn't concerned about having a battery under my tank in my scooter. I figure lots and lots of stars would have to align to make an explosion under my seat. There's probably a better chance that a Largeframe with a big carb would start a fire easier...the overflow vent tubes would drip down the back of the case, and into the exhaust. Same for Lammys. I dunno...just go with what you yourself is comfortable with.

why didnt use the part that u cut as the spacer, i use mine that way and it meet nicely, free to laugh.. i even use the engine rubber mounting which get cut

good luck on the bare metal cafe racer and cheer Brother Pheas

Because the kit came with a nice shiny new spacer, and I can’t can’t straight so the cutoff piece was slightly crooked! Did occur to me that it would be possible tho...

The antigravity is the same tech as Shorai- so LiFePO3 I guess. A lot of myths and legends about these batteries... probably there to help dodge warrantee claims. I’m hearing you re: fire risk. Have the room in the right cowl... might as well put something in there.

I'm with WDC here... have had a 2.2ah (I think) gel battery up behind the tank for years. And I've had plenty of leaks. My regulator is also under there, it sits between the side of the tank and the glove box. It's pretty rare that I need to get into them, and frees up a good deal of space.
The wires and terminals to the battery are taped down to the battery, then it's wrapped in a section of inner tube. Wires are not going anywhere.

Speaking of ignition...

I did actually try and order the Kheper V3 direct from Kheper. Turns out they can't ship to NZ and refunded so I could order from SIP. No drama - easy.

But made me rethink the ignition issue. Local guru mentioned Vape. That I likely need one for all the glitchy gadgets I'm planning. I tend to agree - moreso than the V3. Although a bluetooth CDI is so shiny to this magpie (yes, I barack for Collingwood!)

But I need a vape >> V3.

Pheas' the king of the astricks fine print and comming soon - so annointed by the king of the second opinion... u are officially knighted.

I have a vape on pre order hold for when they come in stock - a few midnight conversations with their customer service and tech team under my belt - but learn from your post that there is a V3 on the way? Of course. (11" just released rim as avatar shoulda signaled...)

My .$02on battery.
Non motorside cowel is ideal.
Don't mount where u can't get wrench on hardware to put cowel on.
Battery so small and ur touch good enough that wiring and battery will hardly take up any space. Leaves serviceable and nuts protected from explosion... of battery.

Lookin good. Gettin close.

I didn’t re-order a V3 since the refund. Hit pause and realized the CDI is not the weak point for my setup.

All 2 strokes, even stock, benefit from variable timing. Whatever you decide make sure the timing is variable. The Vape sport has some level of variable. If the Kheper v3 works reliably it will be the best way to go variable. If it turns out anything like the v2, you dodged a bullet.

I'm in the planning stages on what to do with my Allstate, so I'm watching this thread closely for ideas. Thank you! I love this idea and will remember it when the time comes for updating the 62 Allstate. Thanks!

So PleasantP - this is one awesome thread, and you've built quite the machine. I am in awe.

Ain’t built yet... there’s many a slip ‘twixt cup and the lip.

I’ll consider it built when road legal!

i believe u can make a spacer out of this Brother Pheas

good luck on the bare metal cafe racer and cheer

ps: my pink is waiting to have a side to side picture with ur vbb and show off our wide tyre setup

Meet you halfway... Which is Alice Springs in the middle of Australia!

https://goo.gl/maps/quypZg8uxsJv4Bju7

Hey, can I come if I get me some big tires?

no need for wide tyre Brother T, just a wide smile and a open arms so that we can hug u when we meet

are u going to vespa world day in bali 2020?

Polished the guard....

Could keep taping out the small dents but had enough!

PP is that bulge welded? Or just beaten out? Think I missed the starting stages of the guard.

Is that a UK Douglas frame, I note that frame number riveted on right hand side rear of the body. Is there also a number stamped on the left hand side on the flat plate at the base of the frame?

Allow me:

At the same time I was grinding my components to tilt and tidily tuck my shock under a stock mud guard, Pheas' was cutting his in half and giving it an epic beating with all manner of tools and bats from his childhood. If he had already bought his welder at that point, this thing woulda gone from Picaso sculpture to Alexander Calder installation.

The best post being the one where he ripped the thing in to two halves - like that was the normal thing to do when you wanna adjust your front mud guard.

It’s a long story...

Well splitting the guard worked...

Figured there would be no way to beat the ‘bulge’ into the guard and then adjust the deformities of the beating otherwise.

Also (and in someways more importantly) - having to drop the fork to remove/fit the guard is very annoying. I’ve only have to take the fork out a couple of times. And can still remove the guard anytime... the two halves are just bolted together.

It’s a long way from perfect. Could make the next one better. But happy enough with V1.0 and wouldn’t make another unless I had to!

The ‘painting’ begins...

Oh boy. I love this raw style! Looking forward to pics of the painting products and technique as I hope to do something similar one day. Keep up the great work!

It’s a bit of an experiment... especially on the alloy headset. Will let guys know when I do.

Photo shoot...

1st coat.

Crossing fingers on how this dries...

The suspension...