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@travisnj avatar
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Primasarah
1979 P200E, 1977 Rally 200, 1974 Primavera
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Primasarah
@travisnj avatar
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So I'm breaking down my Rally 200 and P200E cases to get media blasted and only have a couple of bearings keeping me from dropping it off at the machine shop: Flyside Bearings and Selector Rod Bearings.

I tried to get the selector rod bearing out with a punch like Scooter Mercato says but the metal was too soft and punched right through.

Any ideas without the factory tool or welding studs? I was thinking about trying to HF Blind Bearing Puller to grab em out. Not sure if the kit has the sizes I need.
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The selector rod bearing is one of the few bearings where the correct tool is a must for removal and instal. I hate replacing that bearing even with the right tools.

On the older (pre ~66ish) it was not a drawn cup and you could slowly work it out and back in with a punch.
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Ossessionato
1970 Vespa Rally 180
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Re: Bearing Removal Question
TravisNJ wrote:
So I'm breaking down my Rally 200 and P200E cases to get media blasted and only have a couple of bearings keeping me from dropping it off at the machine shop: Flyside Bearings and Selector Rod Bearings.

I tried to get the selector rod bearing out with a punch like Scooter Mercato says but the metal was too soft and punched right through.

Any ideas without the factory tool or welding studs? I was thinking about trying to HF Blind Bearing Puller to grab em out. Not sure if the kit has the sizes I need.
i have that HF kit, and it does not have the right size. sorry man.
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Buy them wherever you want but here's what they look like:
Puller to remove the old
Puller to remove the old
punch to instal the new
punch to instal the new
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1970 Vespa Rally 180
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correct me if I am wrong, but I dont think a full circle will fit to pull that bearing.
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Ossessionato
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I have a lot of original factory tools. The selector bearing tool is one I do not have.

I take the largest screwdriver I can find. I then tap the bearings edge/side. There is two edges you can get to, so work it back and forth. The bearing at the point of removal is bad. New bearing is a must.

Add heat if it is stubborn.
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My method of choice, especially for the flyside race, is to spot weld (4 or 5 dots) a fender washer to the ID of the race. I put a thin sheet of steel in the crank area to protect from splatter, but that is probably overkill. I then use a drift smaller than the flyside seal and tap it out. The heat from the weld warms the race and cases, and a blast of freeze spray to shrink the race works wonders. I am always amazed at how easily they come out. The heat helps but it really comes from the fact that the race is being forced evenly without any cocking side to side...Takes less than 5 minutes including setting up the welder, way easier than using a puller!
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Primasarah
1979 P200E, 1977 Rally 200, 1974 Primavera
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TRowe, I wish I could weld. But I have never done it before.

I'll get the LML factory tools to remove the races. If it doesn't work, a little die grinder slotting will work.
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Lately I just turn the case bearing side down, work the heat gun around the bearing area and let gravity do it's thing. Sometimes I'll tap the case with a screwdriver handle to help things along.
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regarding the welding and just heating the case in the oven, are you doing that for the drawn cup bearing on the selector side of the final drive shaft?

Drawn cup bearings have a much thinner wall and much more interference than other bearings. I'd be surprised if either of those methods worked. Cool if it does but want to be sure we are talking about the same bearing.
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I have not had the "opportunity" to remove the selector bearing since getting the welder... when I do I will update!
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Hooked
'62 TV175, '70 GP-RB250, '74 Rally 200. '03 PX200E
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I agree with jamesjohn, I do not see how the puller is going to help
you, see pic of my Rally200 casings below

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

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For gear box trap doors on hd's I've always placed them on my old trust wood stove for a bit and because the aluminum would heat up faster than the steel bearing a lite downward smack on the work bench and the bearings would fall right out, replacements were already in the freezer over nite and they dropped right back into the hot aluminum. For the vespa bearings because the surface isn't flat I would think a heat gun would do the trick around the aluminum surface.
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Just had another thought for what I do with big end 5 speed tranny bearings on hd's . I just take a long bolt and big washers for pushing the bearing and use a large socket or pipe fitting and large washers for its perimeter and with the long bolt going through the big washer ,bearing and nipple and washers just tighten the nut and bolt assembly until bearing gets pulled into nipple centre.
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Vespigi wrote:
I agree with jamesjohn, I do not see how the puller is going to help
you, see pic of my Rally200 casings below

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

The blind pullers pictured has a clear shot of the bearing from the inside. They expand and the lip of the puller catches the bearing. The cup shaped part then goes over the puller and rests on the case around the edge of the bearing. A large nut then threads onto the outside of the puller and pulls it and the bearing out of the case and into the cup. heat is also a good idea but it's still a pain.
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oopsclunkthud wrote:
Vespigi wrote:
I agree with jamesjohn, I do not see how the puller is going to help
you, see pic of my Rally200 casings below

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

The blind pullers pictured has a clear shot of the bearing from the inside. They expand and the lip of the puller catches the bearing. The cup shaped part then goes over the puller and rests on the case around the edge of the bearing. A large nut then threads onto the outside of the puller and pulls it and the bearing out of the case and into the cup. heat is also a good idea but it's still a pain.
Patrick, It's been awhile since I replaced a largeframe spindle beaing. Seems to me I used a washer out side the casing and notched it to clear the selector stud casting, then the blind puller engaged the washer. On the smallframe, I had one fall out in the oven and another I had to destroy. Boshield T-9 lube and heat also help alot.
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Molto Verboso
2005 PX150 In a Part-time Relationship with a 2-Stroke Vespa Since 2007
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I recently had to pull that bearing and the LML blind puller worked just fine. The lip on the puller is thin and slipped under the case where it covers the bearing race so it still got a good grip. Was a PX, though.

Note:
The set I received was made sloppy and threads needed chasing which cost me a pricey tap.
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1979 Vespa P200E
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I removed mine the way Gickspeed does, just tapped on each edge of the bearing until it dropped out. I used a drift, but the large screwdriver idea sounds good. Actually I was able to remove all the bearings this way.
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If anyone is holding the correct piece to remove the selector bearing, I will pay a fair price.


Have not been able to track it down.
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GickSpeed wrote:
If anyone is holding the correct piece to remove the selector bearing, I will pay a fair price.


Have not been able to track it down.
Like I mentioned earlier, if you get the right size washer that isslightly smaller than the outer bearing perimeter and downsize the washer to another one so the bolt doesn't fall through the hole ( now you have a puller ) on the opposite side of the bearing you will need something for the bearing to fall into even a short piece of pcv pipe ( I prefer a large socket) you then need a large washer to match the pcv or socket fit over the threaded part of the bolt, use another smaller washer so nut on end of bolt will be against smaller washer , now just start tightening bolt and nut and if bearing doesn't move use a bit of heat on the case ( aluminum heats up real quick) tighten somemore, it should fall into the pcv pocket. You have to be creative.
Even if you have to cut the washer partially so that it will fit in from the odd ball side.
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Ok I went outside through the snow in my flipflops to the garage and it took a whole 2 minutes to drive the bearing out of mine. You shouldn't have an issue driving it out.
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Molto Verboso
No moar Vespas...sold them all
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Deleted...not applicable.
⚠️ Last edited by dcunited4life on UTC; edited 1 time
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dcunited4life wrote:
I drove the selector rod bearing out of my GL last Wednesday since I had half a day of work and time to kill to work on the scoot. I used a punch and lots of heat to get the thing outta mine. The inner had ass-ploded and left rollers to grind around in the cases so it needed a replacing. Also, it lead to the rear wheel bearing being destroyed from everything jostling around so I replaced that too as well as all the seals. 48 year old clutch side seal rubber was hard enough to drive a nail in a 2x4 I think.

Heat it and do it with a punch, no big deal just go around the entire circumference and do it slowly to get it out as evenly as possible. I used a bearing punch to get the new one in though and ended up having to remove the kickstart quadrant (which I really didn't want to do but had to) so that when the new one got driven in I could do it straight on without having to hold the kickstart all the way in and try to drive a bearing in straight. I had a harder time removing the castle nut from the rear wheel bearing than I did with the selector rod bearing. Castle nut on mine was reverse threaded BTW and again, ton's of heat was applied with a heat gun before it decided to move.
Please try and follow along. Giving advice on a totally different bearing is not helpful.

Given your GL is a '64 and has a the castle nut on the final drive bearing I'm guessing the bearing at the selector box looked like this:

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

That bearing is not do difficult to drift out on the new one in just like any other bearing.

After 1966 they went to the drawn cup bearing that looks like:

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
⬆️    About 2 years elapsed    ⬇️
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63 GL150
I also am having issues with this selector box bearing, below is my vin, I belive its a 63, scooter mercato sold me bearing number 47100 (Bearing, Engine, Selector Rod, 60's), but after heating the case it doesn't "just drop in"
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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You may need to put a little more effort into it. When people say it drops in usually they just mean it was easy or straight forward. Make sure the case is CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN! And use a bunch of heat on case. Make sure the drift you use is the proper size.

The OD of those bearings are same, it is the ID that's different. So the selector rod is different type.
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