dcunited4life wrote:
I drove the selector rod bearing out of my GL last Wednesday since I had half a day of work and time to kill to work on the scoot. I used a punch and lots of heat to get the thing outta mine. The inner had ass-ploded and left rollers to grind around in the cases so it needed a replacing. Also, it lead to the rear wheel bearing being destroyed from everything jostling around so I replaced that too as well as all the seals. 48 year old clutch side seal rubber was hard enough to drive a nail in a 2x4 I think.
Heat it and do it with a punch, no big deal just go around the entire circumference and do it slowly to get it out as evenly as possible. I used a bearing punch to get the new one in though and ended up having to remove the kickstart quadrant (which I really didn't want to do but had to) so that when the new one got driven in I could do it straight on without having to hold the kickstart all the way in and try to drive a bearing in straight. I had a harder time removing the castle nut from the rear wheel bearing than I did with the selector rod bearing. Castle nut on mine was reverse threaded BTW and again, ton's of heat was applied with a heat gun before it decided to move.
Please try and follow along. Giving advice on a totally different bearing is not helpful.
Given your GL is a '64 and has a the castle nut on the final drive bearing I'm guessing the bearing at the selector box looked like this:
That bearing is not do difficult to drift out on the new one in just like any other bearing.
After 1966 they went to the drawn cup bearing that looks like: