Random tricks, share your best little tips & shortcuts
Post Reply    Forum -> Not-So-Modern Previous123...12131415Next
Author Message
Addicted
79' p125x
Joined: 10 Aug 2016
Posts: 573
Location: greece
Sun Apr 02, 2017 11:21 am quote
i must be stupid, trying to figure a way to mic jets, getting undersize jets, as in not advertised size resulting in scratching my head trying to work out WTF is going on so.. please tell me every one else has thought of this? please.... now tell me where to get drills 1.08mm thru 1.45mm in .02 to .04 increments...

jetmic.png

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 6884
Location: Victoria, Australia
Wed Apr 05, 2017 3:58 am quote
Re: Pinch bolt trick
Bluecati wrote:
The top bearings from the headset fit perfectly inside the pinch bolt
Awesome! Thank you.
Banned
2:6
Joined: 11 Jan 2007
Posts: 7401
Location: San Francisco
Fri Apr 14, 2017 11:28 am quote
Many of the original screws and bolts had turned faces on them and modern manufacturing have mostly eliminated those steps giving us better bolts at lower costs but they lack that old world charm.

on stainless hardware it's very quick and easy to face and chamfer the heads of bolts to make them look the part. Adds a nice touch on the stand bolts and other places where they remain in view.

IMG_1786.png

Molto Verboso
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: 16 Apr 2011
Posts: 1067
Location: Siam
Fri Apr 14, 2017 5:05 pm quote
oopsclunkthud wrote:
Many of the original screws and bolts had turned faces on them and modern manufacturing have mostly eliminated those steps giving us better bolts at lower costs but they lack that old world charm.

on stainless hardware it's very quick and easy to face and chamfer the heads of bolts to make them look the part. Adds a nice touch on the stand bolts and other places where they remain in view.
How do keep the head from rusting now?
Banned
2:6
Joined: 11 Jan 2007
Posts: 7401
Location: San Francisco
Fri Apr 14, 2017 5:30 pm quote
nomadinsiam wrote:
oopsclunkthud wrote:
Many of the original screws and bolts had turned faces on them and modern manufacturing have mostly eliminated those steps giving us better bolts at lower costs but they lack that old world charm.

on stainless hardware it's very quick and easy to face and chamfer the heads of bolts to make them look the part. Adds a nice touch on the stand bolts and other places where they remain in view.
How do keep the head from rusting now?
Stainless hardware, otherwise they'd need to be re-zinc plated.
Molto Verboso
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: 16 Apr 2011
Posts: 1067
Location: Siam
Fri Apr 14, 2017 6:28 pm quote
oopsclunkthud wrote:
nomadinsiam wrote:
oopsclunkthud wrote:
Many of the original screws and bolts had turned faces on them and modern manufacturing have mostly eliminated those steps giving us better bolts at lower costs but they lack that old world charm.

on stainless hardware it's very quick and easy to face and chamfer the heads of bolts to make them look the part. Adds a nice touch on the stand bolts and other places where they remain in view.
How do keep the head from rusting now?
Stainless hardware, otherwise they'd need to be re-zinc plated.
I once tried using a hand file and sand paper to remove the markings and it did not turn out well. Yours look good.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 50s x2 78 P200 84 Cosa 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special + projects
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 6882
Location: seattle/athens
Fri Apr 14, 2017 6:52 pm quote
Great idea! If you don't have a lathe, you can get the same effect putting the bolt in your drill motor, head out and run it carefully against a bench or anglehead grinder. Finish up w/ sandpaper to get it nice & smooth.

bolt0.jpg

bolt.jpg

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 6884
Location: Victoria, Australia
Mon Apr 17, 2017 2:22 am quote
Re: um but...
kyvelis wrote:
i must be stupid, trying to figure a way to mic jets, getting undersize jets, as in not advertised size resulting in scratching my head trying to work out WTF is going on so.. please tell me every one else has thought of this? please.... now tell me where to get drills 1.08mm thru 1.45mm in .02 to .04 increments...
I found some tapered needles - I think they may have been for crocheting or something, from a place that sold sewing supplies. I used a marker pen and after inserting it in the jet and twisting, you can see a fairly clear ring. Then I could measure with the verniers.
Micro drill sets are easy to find - http://www.ebay.com/itm/20x-Mini-Micro-Drill-Set-HSS-0-1-2-0mm-TWIST-DRILLS-Model-CRAFT-HOBBY-JEWELLRY-/282255515984?hash=item41b7bd6150:g:V8AAAOSw4GVYKYJW

However I bought a jet set from these guys - http://www.kmtproducts.co.uk/index.php?cat=DELLORTO-TYPE-JETS&subcat=D20-Push-in-Jets----Type-4576-&page_id=62&menu_id=75&category_id=1&sub_category_id=12
There was a small thing in Scootering mag a little while ago, supposedly these jets are CNC'd in the UK to some pretty close tolerances. And not very expensive either.
Addicted
79' p125x
Joined: 10 Aug 2016
Posts: 573
Location: greece
Mon Apr 17, 2017 3:32 am quote
I'm on it!!
Thanks Ginch! V oodoo put me on to one of your older posts and slap bang in the middle is a needle! gonna get some jet sets from your link...... And I finally finally FINALLY, got it running right this morning! Happy Easter y'all!!!
Ossessionato
1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 4674
Location: So Cal
Fri Apr 21, 2017 7:28 pm quote
Tired of fumbling with mini wrenches to tighten pinch bolts? Try a thumbwheel ratchet instead.

Especially useful for tightening the impossible to reach smallie gear cable bolts.

$5 at Harbor Freight:


Mr. Clean
P,SUPER,V90, 50 Special
Joined: 27 Jul 2010
Posts: 10207
Location: This is't my locker!
Fri Apr 21, 2017 7:52 pm quote
SoCalGuy wrote:
Tired of fumbling with mini wrenches to tighten pinch bolts? Try a thumbwheel ratchet instead.

Especially useful for tightening the impossible to reach smallie gear cable bolts.

$5 at Harbor Freight:


NICE. gonna get some! Thanks Mike
Addicted
'64 Motovespa 150S (177) , '64 V90
Joined: 27 Mar 2013
Posts: 547
Location: S.Salem, NY
Sat Apr 22, 2017 6:28 am quote
Oil Bottles
I got tired of the mess of pouring oil into the little cup. Especially after the wind blew it over one time. I do this for my 2-stroke SAAB with 18 oz.ketchup bottles so I found some 3oz. ( Vespa) and 4oz. ( Lambretta) squeeze bottles on Amazon. I just keep two in the bike and replenish when I get home. I also put marks on them for 1/2 Gal. that read when the bottle's upside down. No muss, no fuss.

DSC00081.JPG

Ossessionato
1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 4674
Location: So Cal
Sat Apr 22, 2017 6:46 am quote
^Nice Moto. Do you have a link?
Addicted
'64 Motovespa 150S (177) , '64 V90
Joined: 27 Mar 2013
Posts: 547
Location: S.Salem, NY
Sat Apr 22, 2017 7:58 am quote
Just look for "travel bottles" on Amazon. Many options. These were clear but are now stained by Dominator. The 3oz. squeezy silicone ones are nice and they have a wider mouth to fill.
Molto Verboso
2005 PX150 In a Love-Hate Relationship with a 2-Stroke Vespa Since 2007
Joined: 01 Sep 2007
Posts: 1800

Sun Apr 23, 2017 8:55 am quote
Here's my mix-screw tool, a 7mm torch-bent combo wrench with the other end cut off, tapered, and jammed into a section of copper tubing. Easy-peasy. I can adjust it with my left hand at the same time I'm fiddling with the idle speed screw on the right.

I keep it with the tools in the glovebox.

IMG_2987.JPG

Addicted
79' p125x
Joined: 10 Aug 2016
Posts: 573
Location: greece
Tue May 09, 2017 12:14 am quote
Re: Float needle seat refurbished
V oodoo wrote:
When you try a new float needle and your carb still leaks, you probably just need a new float bowl top where the other half of the float valve is located. Not usually a problem if you have a largeframe but on a smallie it means the whole carb body .

That wasn't possible on my latest project so I did something I've had pretty good luck with in the past, smallframe and largeframe carbs too.
Worked a treat with an old 24/24 carb that was given to me, thanks.
Addicted
GTV 300
Joined: 16 Jun 2015
Posts: 812
Location: Raleigh / Durham, North Carolina, U.S.A.
Tue Jun 13, 2017 3:13 pm quote
Re: How to Install a Hella Lamp
SFvsr wrote:
This link will take you to my Flickr set with the how I did it. Incredibly simple.
1. Get some lights
2. Get some rubber stoppers and a M12 bolt with nylok nut and a stack of stainless washers (I used 3)
3. Drill a hole
4. Install assembly
5. Connect to power.

This will also work for a Vespa with zero changes.

I will be updating the set to include the rear of the assembly, the dimensions of the stoppers, and the wiring.



Hella Lamp on Jet 200 by SFvsr, on Flickr
This looks so cool! Have you added another light on the opposite side to create balance?
Banned
2:6
Joined: 11 Jan 2007
Posts: 7401
Location: San Francisco
Tue Jun 13, 2017 4:36 pm quote
lambrettas are too well balanced to start with, the lamp adds some much needed imbalance :P
Hooked
1979 P125X
Joined: 17 Jun 2016
Posts: 359
Location: Everett Wa
Tue Jun 13, 2017 7:13 pm quote
the contacts on my headlight of my p125x are worn out and are not stiff anymore, so v oodoo and i tried some troubleshooting, and then found that a plastic washer rubberbanded to the socket away from the bulb held the contacts directly to the bulb, which maintained contact.

i have put on well over 100 miles since this easy repair and it has not shaken loose or fallen out.
Ossessionato
05 Stella, '62 VBB, 76 Sprint V, 63 GL
Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Posts: 2079
Location: Chicago. Well, Evanston, but that's almost Chicago
Sat Jun 17, 2017 2:05 pm quote
The SIP crank removal tools works perfectly for pressing the needle bearing race onto the crank if you flip the tube around:

Ossessionato
1980 P200E, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 3689
Location: San Diego, CA
Sat Jun 17, 2017 5:03 pm quote
chandlerman wrote:
The SIP crank removal tools works perfectly for pressing the needle bearing race onto the crank if you flip the tube around:

Chandler is it threading onto the fly side threads, so you can screw it down?
Ossessionato
05 Stella, '62 VBB, 76 Sprint V, 63 GL
Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Posts: 2079
Location: Chicago. Well, Evanston, but that's almost Chicago
Sat Jun 17, 2017 6:21 pm quote
[quote="sdjohn"]
chandlerman wrote:
The SIP crank removal tools works perfectly for pressing the needle bearing race onto the crank if you flip the tube around:

Chandler is it threading onto the fly side threads, so you can screw it down?[/quote

Yes, that's exactly what it's doing. The nut pushes it down, so there is zero stress on the center pin. Chilling the crank helps, but it's by no means necessary. The race was not heated.]
Member
rusty P
Joined: 15 Jul 2014
Posts: 21
Location: ess eff
Thu Jul 06, 2017 8:32 pm quote
Re: TYRE installation
Ginch wrote:
Warhorse wrote:
I use talc powder rather than dish soap. Same result but keeps things nice and dry. I also rub talc over the tube so it moves freely within the tire and doesn't get caught anywhere.
Different perspective - This is my preference too, I don't like the idea of moisture inbetween rim/tyre/tube.
Ye Olde bike race mechanics used talcum powder inside tires to reduce friction between tube and tyre. Reduced friction reduces wear and likelihood old tube will stick inside tire when changing. Reduced friction inside tyre may also improve ride character (on bicycles' light wheels) and make it go a wee bit faster.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 6884
Location: Victoria, Australia
Sun Jul 09, 2017 7:00 pm quote
P - PX case/gear differences
Thanks to Sime66 for this very useful info -
sime66 wrote:
For the first question, there is a way without splitting casings, just removing the selector box and measuring the rod:
PX Mk1 (pre-1984) uses a selector rod which is tightened with a 13mm spanner.
PX EFL & T5 (post 1984) uses a selector rod that is tightened with a 17mm spanner.

You can put old P gearbox in new casings (maybe thatís what you have) and vice versa (Iíve put EFL gearboxes in a couple of older casings), but the whole driveshaft, gears (except 2nd) and selector box, need changing; the primaries are the same (some input shafts are different, but the cluster is the same). Thereís a few other slight differences Iíve come across, so Iíll add some more stuff if I think of it before anyone else beats me to it.

Bottom of page 503 shows the selector box difference:

http://www.sip-scootershop.com/files/catalogue/index.html#/503

Botom of page 493 shows the loose gears diference:

http://www.sip-scootershop.com/files/catalogue/index.html#/493

Top of page 490 shows the driveshaft diference:

http://www.sip-scootershop.com/files/catalogue/index.html#/491

(Mk1 has a shoulder one end and a circlip the other, and EFL has the two circlips).

Then, there's the different crux and extra washer, which you know about; there's a difference with bearing/seal (size and whether internal or external) at the other end of that shaft too, but it's all do-able once you know what combination you have:

http://www.sip-scootershop.com/files/catalogue/index.html#/167

Dictated by casings, not crank; the clutchside crankshaft oil seal material is different for EFL too Ė thereís a groove in older casings, so you canít use the EFL metal seal. The circlips round the main bearing are different too, but I think the bearing is the same.

To get specific over the small differences, you have to note three types of 'P' casing and gearbox:
Early 'P' (pre-PX)
Early 'PX' (pre EFL)
PX EFL
Hooked
Jet 200, P200E (x2), T5
Joined: 27 Jan 2013
Posts: 303
Location: Paris, France & L.A., Cal, USA
Mon Jul 10, 2017 2:36 pm quote
YNGIDEA wrote:
Ye Olde bike race mechanics used talcum powder inside tires to reduce friction between tube and tyre. Reduced friction reduces wear and likelihood old tube will stick inside tire when changing.
I didn't know about this being an old trick, but I started using talcum years ago after noticing that new tires were always full of it. The fact is, it makes changing tires and tubes much easier. And given that some of my tubes have been in use since the '90s, I'm thinking there's some preserving qualities in there too!

IMG_3193.JPG

Hooked
vespa 125 vnb1t
Joined: 13 Jul 2011
Posts: 365
Location: antibes , france
Thu Jul 13, 2017 11:49 am quote
how i remove piston rings without snappage
slip a feeler gauge between the piston and ring at the widest point then slide the feeler gauge round to the open part of the ring
gently push the ring up the feeler gauge with your thumb
then carefully slide the feeler gauge around the piston keeping pressure on the ring bingo

2017-07-13 15.49.10.jpg

2017-07-13 15.51.55.jpg

2017-07-13 15.52.28.jpg

Addicted
79' p125x
Joined: 10 Aug 2016
Posts: 573
Location: greece
Wed Jul 19, 2017 2:25 pm quote
arse about face
went the other way the other week, rebuilt a mates p200 motor and used freeze spray (didn't have any liquid nitrogen to hand) the type that removes chewing gum etc, when its finished boiling, co-efficient of expansion, etc blah, bearings come out easy with cases at room temp, and bearings go in easy at room temp, froze the crank and that bastard inner race went in with no bother. there was was a 90 to 110 degree (c) differential between bearings, races. cases at +30 to +40, bearings, crank at -50 ish. so alternate to oven.
Addicted
79' p125x
Joined: 10 Aug 2016
Posts: 573
Location: greece
Wed Jul 19, 2017 2:30 pm quote
Ginch^^
drill sharpener+battery drill+1.4mm drill bits+vernier caliper+crotchet needle = no more waiting/searching for jets. thanks.
Molto Verboso
'99 PX200
Joined: 19 Oct 2008
Posts: 1312
Location: Cheshire, England, UK, Europe.
Fri Jul 21, 2017 11:49 am quote
Not sure if this has already been posted (I searched '71mm' with nothing showing in this thread) but this is a very handy little bit of wood to carry.

I can't claim any credit for this, so probably best to just link the page.

https://www.scooterlab.uk/scooterist-tip-2-use-your-noggin-vespa-p-range-clutch-cable-tip-workshop/
Addicted
1966 SS180,1968 Sprint, 72' Rally ,74 V90, '64 GL 150 & too many projects!
Joined: 17 May 2010
Posts: 988
Location: seattle, wa
Fri Jul 21, 2017 12:16 pm quote
Installing Rubber Bellows on carbs - or other stubborn $#@
So take a good size sauce pan - make sure the wife isn't looking ! - and get water deep enough to at least 1/2 submerge the part and take to boiling or near boiling. take this to your scoot - insert part - swish around a few minutes- ahh nits nice and pliable now!!! Put it on with out all the cursing - even the dreaded Malossi bellows goes on in 1 min or so like this !!

CHeers!
Addicted
'76 Vespa Rally 200
Joined: 13 Feb 2011
Posts: 525
Location: Melbourne
Fri Jul 21, 2017 1:35 pm quote
Halijaro wrote:
Not sure if this has already been posted (I searched '71mm' with nothing showing in this thread) but this is a very handy little bit of wood to carry.

I can't claim any credit for this, so probably best to just link the page.

https://www.scooterlab.uk/scooterist-tip-2-use-your-noggin-vespa-p-range-clutch-cable-tip-workshop/
This is fucking brilliant. Cheers!
Addicted
'76 Vespa Rally 200
Joined: 13 Feb 2011
Posts: 525
Location: Melbourne
Fri Jul 21, 2017 1:45 pm quote
Re: Installing Rubber Bellows on carbs - or other stubborn $
the Falcon wrote:
So take a good size sauce pan - make sure the wife isn't looking ! - and get water deep enough to at least 1/2 submerge the part and take to boiling or near boiling. take this to your scoot - insert part - swish around a few minutes- ahh nits nice and pliable now!!! Put it on with out all the cursing - even the dreaded Malossi bellows goes on in 1 min or so like this !!

CHeers!
You can also use a heat gun for this. I happen to have one, don't even remember what I bought it for originally, but I often use it to make rubber parts more pliable before installing them. Good for cars and scooters.
Addicted
1966 SS180,1968 Sprint, 72' Rally ,74 V90, '64 GL 150 & too many projects!
Joined: 17 May 2010
Posts: 988
Location: seattle, wa
Sat Jul 22, 2017 1:43 am quote
Re: Installing Rubber Bellows on carbs - or other stubborn $
autojack wrote:
the Falcon wrote:
So take a good size sauce pan - make sure the wife isn't looking ! - and get water deep enough to at least 1/2 submerge the part and take to boiling or near boiling. take this to your scoot - insert part - swish around a few minutes- ahh nits nice and pliable now!!! Put it on with out all the cursing - even the dreaded Malossi bellows goes on in 1 min or so like this !!

CHeers!
You can also use a heat gun for this. I happen to have one, don't even remember what I bought it for originally, but I often use it to make rubber parts more pliable before installing them. Good for cars and scooters.
i dont have 1 - water is free ..and few dimes to heat up .
Hooked
1979 P125X
Joined: 17 Jun 2016
Posts: 359
Location: Everett Wa
Sun Jul 23, 2017 9:04 pm quote
At some point in time I lost the little brass hat that keeps your clutch cable outer from getting sucked into the void where the clutch cable attaches to the lever on the handlebar. Reason why I know this, mine got sucked into the void.

We fixed it enough to get home, and then went to work in my mind to fix it since we still had one day left on our rally.

I had just bought a complete cable kit from Scooter Mercato and only actually needed the clutch and shift cables, the the rest of them went into the community bin at Hooligans HQ.

It just so happens that the inside diameter of the metal cap on the outer for the foot brake cable on a P series is the exact size needed to fit on the outside diameter of the clutch cable outer.

Problem solved!
Ossessionato
2 matching N.Z. '69 VBC Super, 177cc Racer, VespaCross Bodge, Puch SRA150, Piaggio Zip 100! & others
Joined: 26 May 2013
Posts: 3764
Location: Millbin, Ostrayleea, mate
Wed Jul 26, 2017 1:08 am quote
Re: um but...
kyvelis wrote:
i must be stupid, trying to figure a way to mic jets, getting undersize jets, as in not advertised size resulting in scratching my head trying to work out WTF is going on so.. please tell me every one else has thought of this? please.... now tell me where to get drills 1.08mm thru 1.45mm in .02 to .04 increments...
How bout using a satay skewer or toothpick?
Addicted
79' p125x
Joined: 10 Aug 2016
Posts: 573
Location: greece
Fri Jul 28, 2017 1:36 pm quote
Tried wooden sticks, they expand slightly when removed from the orifice, if you ever seperate the fly from its hub and your a bit far from home, m4 18 bolts and nuts or 6 inch nails, 4 and a smidge diameter and cut to 18mm length and riveted are worth considering.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 50s x2 78 P200 84 Cosa 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special + projects
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 6882
Location: seattle/athens
Sun Jul 30, 2017 10:54 am quote
Here's some good carb advice :
blackbart wrote:
....

Next most common problem for me is the idle jet. The bottom hole is very, very, itsy-bitsy, teeny-weenie small. Possibly two grains of pollen stopped up small. Dies at idle or slightly fast idle, hesitates from stop, possibly revving and slipping the clutch to get going in first gear. Sounds different cruising at low throttle. My wife recognizes the symptoms as well.

I used to remove the idle jet, blow through with carb cleaner, replace. For years now I keep a spare idle jet, replace, keep riding.

If idling and response get iffy on a formerly good running scoot, resist the temptation to turn adjustment screws. If it ran good before, chances are, it's not an adjustment problem.

....
Addicted
1966 SS180,1968 Sprint, 72' Rally ,74 V90, '64 GL 150 & too many projects!
Joined: 17 May 2010
Posts: 988
Location: seattle, wa
Sun Jul 30, 2017 1:41 pm quote
Re: um but...
SubEtherBASS wrote:
kyvelis wrote:
i must be stupid, trying to figure a way to mic jets, getting undersize jets, as in not advertised size resulting in scratching my head trying to work out WTF is going on so.. please tell me every one else has thought of this? please.... now tell me where to get drills 1.08mm thru 1.45mm in .02 to .04 increments...
How bout using a satay skewer or toothpick?
I think Bamboo would work best because it has a hi silica content , i think that makes it burnish rather well.
Hooked
1974 Vespa Primavera 125, 1980 Bajaj Chetak
Joined: 07 Jul 2017
Posts: 378
Location: Boston, MA
Mon Jul 31, 2017 9:21 am quote
Re: Oil Bottles
Moto64 wrote:
I got tired of the mess of pouring oil into the little cup. Especially after the wind blew it over one time. I do this for my 2-stroke SAAB with 18 oz.ketchup bottles so I found some 3oz. ( Vespa) and 4oz. ( Lambretta) squeeze bottles on Amazon. I just keep two in the bike and replenish when I get home. I also put marks on them for 1/2 Gal. that read when the bottle's upside down. No muss, no fuss.
I also just started doing this. These are 3oz wide-mouth travel bottles from CVS, marked for 1/2 gallon and 1 gallon at 2%. I'm saying goodbye to the stupid little cup. The bottles have 2 strong, small neodymium magnets glued to the back so that they easily stick in my tiny storage compartment without rattling around. I have also attached the small tool bag using just 2 of these magnets on the inside top of the bag. They are strong enough to hold the bag in place, even while I'm digging around in it.

Untitled.jpg

20170729_162121.jpg

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 6884
Location: Victoria, Australia
Thu Aug 03, 2017 2:11 am quote
Blind Bearing Pusher
Your Rally Here   vespa scooterwest scooter west Motorsport Scooters   AF1 Racing Vespa Austin
Post Reply    Forum -> Not-So-Modern Previous123...12131415Next
[ Time: 0.3373s ][ Queries: 25 (0.0609s) ][ Debug on ]