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Ossessionato
1980 P200E, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 3779
Location: San Diego, CA
Thu Aug 03, 2017 7:28 am quote
Genius Ginch. You can fry the bread afterward for a snack
Ossessionato
1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 4870
Location: So Cal
Thu Aug 03, 2017 1:41 pm quote


I've seen it done with play doh... but bread?

I have a smallie case with a blind bearing still in it. I'll try it tonight. If it works, it's a game changer.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 3779
Location: San Diego, CA
Thu Aug 03, 2017 1:47 pm quote
SoCalGuy wrote:


I've seen it done with play doh... but bread?

I have a smallie case with a blind bearing still in it. I'll try it tonight. If it works, it's a game changer.
pictures or video or it didn't happen.
Addicted
'76 Vespa Rally 200
Joined: 13 Feb 2011
Posts: 549
Location: Melbourne
Thu Aug 03, 2017 1:48 pm quote
Re: Blind Bearing Pusher
I just recently saw something similar which blew my fucking mind:
It left me wishing for some poor sap to bring me a part like that, hat in hand, and ask how to get the bearing out. Just so I could cast a wary, seasoned eye over it, and then get out my drill bits and some grease.

Start at 4:50 to get to the good bit.

Last edited by autojack on Thu Aug 03, 2017 3:16 pm; edited 1 time in total
Ossessionato
1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 4870
Location: So Cal
Thu Aug 03, 2017 1:50 pm quote
sdjohn wrote:
pictures or video or it didn't happen.
Banned
2:6
Joined: 11 Jan 2007
Posts: 7458
Location: San Francisco
Thu Aug 03, 2017 2:30 pm quote
bread and paper-towel are brilliant. I've seen the trick with just using grease, but it never worked for me as the pressure would just squirt out. both plug the gaps to let the pressure to the work.
Ossessionato
1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 4870
Location: So Cal
Thu Aug 03, 2017 5:04 pm quote
It works! Super easy too.

IMG_1168.JPG
Bearing to be removed from smallie case

IMG_1169.JPG
Step 1: Find bolt to fit

IMG_1171.JPG
Your choice of bread

IMG_1174.JPG
Pack bread in hole

IMG_1175.JPG
Tap bread down...

IMG_1176.JPG
... more bread, more tapping ... note bearing starting to lift

IMG_1177.JPG
... more bread... more tapping...

IMG_1178.JPG
Boom, out!

IMG_1179.JPG
Bread squished thru bearing

IMG_1182.JPG
Total bread: Less than a slice
Total time: Less than 10 mins

Banned
2:6
Joined: 11 Jan 2007
Posts: 7458
Location: San Francisco
Thu Aug 03, 2017 5:59 pm quote
Now the real test, can it get the drawn cup bearing from the end of the final drive out?
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7044
Location: Victoria, Australia
Thu Aug 03, 2017 6:26 pm quote
Next we'll be seeing scholarly papers on the compressive strength of rye grain compared to wheat and it's impact on the automotive industry...
Ossessionato
1980 P200E, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 3779
Location: San Diego, CA
Fri Aug 04, 2017 7:20 am quote
oopsclunkthud wrote:
Now the real test, can it get the drawn cup bearing from the end of the final drive out?
Yeah, that's the bugger one. Let's see it socal!
Ossessionato
1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 4870
Location: So Cal
Fri Aug 04, 2017 10:25 am quote
The REAL bugger is the split bearing race. If bread could only remove that.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7044
Location: Victoria, Australia
Mon Aug 14, 2017 2:06 pm quote
This is one of my least favourite jobs... no matter how long the crank has been in the freezer and how hot the inner race is, it always seems to get stuck. Using this method - with an assortment of bits from the scrap metal box - it went on cold using this method. I don't have a puller to get it off again but it's on the list!

Addicted
'76 Vespa Rally 200
Joined: 13 Feb 2011
Posts: 549
Location: Melbourne
Mon Aug 14, 2017 4:06 pm quote
Ginch wrote:
This is one of my least favourite jobs... no matter how long the crank has been in the freezer and how hot the inner race is, it always seems to get stuck. Using this method - with an assortment of bits from the scrap metal box - it went on cold using this method. I don't have a puller to get it off again but it's on the list!

You're always welcome to borrow my puller!
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7044
Location: Victoria, Australia
Tue Aug 15, 2017 2:01 am quote
^^ Hope that's not a euphemism!!

This looks very useful -

Spark Plug tuning 2.jpg

Ossessionato
05 Stella, '62 VBB, 76 Sprint V, 63 GL
Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Posts: 2226
Location: Chicago. Well, Evanston, but that's almost Chicago
Tue Aug 15, 2017 6:25 am quote
This is something I just thought of and tried, but when I'm tightening a pinch bolt, I now put a spring over the cable, then compress it and lock it down with a pair of vice grips.

This holds the pinch bolt tightly in place so I'm not fumbling with that along with a couple of wrenches and the cable itself.

For shift cables in particular, this was a life changer for me.

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7044
Location: Victoria, Australia
Tue Aug 15, 2017 11:38 pm quote
Nice!!
Molto Verboso
2005 PX150 In a Love-Hate Relationship with a 2-Stroke Vespa Since 2007
Joined: 01 Sep 2007
Posts: 1812

Fri Aug 18, 2017 8:59 am quote
If you have a later P series with the clutch-side main seal on the inside, here's a sure fire way to determine if the seal is leaking without having to guess.

With the engine up on the bench but still buttoned up, prop it up on its side with the flywheel side straight down and the clutch side straight up. With clutch out exposing the main bearing, fill the bearing with gear oil and pressurize the crankcase to no more than 5-6psi. If you see bubbles, the seal is leaking, possibly around the outer edge. If you don't and there's still a leak, it's somewhere else.
Addicted
'64 Motovespa 150S (177) , '64 V90
Joined: 27 Mar 2013
Posts: 570
Location: S.Salem, NY
Sun Aug 20, 2017 4:48 am quote
good one, chandler. simple and effective.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special + projects
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7186
Location: seattle/athens
Mon Aug 21, 2017 12:04 pm quote
And we have a partial index from Ginch, who knows how to save his files before his computer eats them(Pages 1 thru 5) . Anybody volunteer to index 1-5? Being reposted on Page one as well.
Ginch wrote:
I did my half and it didn't take so long... was waiting on you to do the first (easy ) half!

Page 6

Super good cleaner - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1821952#1821952 & http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1831251#1831251
Headset pulley assembly made easy - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1823907#1823907
Float needle seat refurbishment - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1823915#1823915
Test a clutch seal in place - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1824083#1824083
Testing autolube function - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1824176#1824176
Removing rear wheel with SIP road fitted - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1831209#1831209
Set timing without degree wheel - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1837893#1837893
Cheapo flywheel holder - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1839964#1839964
Sprint & similar engine assembly - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1842800#1842800
splitting cases method - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1847375#1847375
Tyre installation - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1853718#1853718
Speedo bezel replacement tip - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1854534#1854534
Vespa Manuals - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1858938#1858938
Cheap rear cowl peg buffers - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1859591#1859591
Key cover - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1859645#1859645
Brake pedal pin removal - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1862036#1862036
Rehydrate old dry rubber parts - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1862043#1862043
Setting your timing guide - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1863809#1863809
Checking Clutch Seal using a Leak Detector - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1875163#1875163

Page 7

White lettering on tyres - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1888520#1888520
Custom cable bend for carb - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1888527#1888527
Handy oil dispenser - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1889856#1889856
split the motor in the scoot - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1896108#1896108
Adjusting clutch cable - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1896379#1896379
Accessing mixture screw - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1902964#1902964
Remove stuck clutch - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1903311#1903311
Split stuck cases - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1903311#1903311
Bar end indicator alternate fitting method - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1904758#1904758
Protect paint from cowl pin - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1908091#1908091
Another way to keep cables from fraying - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1908107#1908107
Check if your points flywheel will work with electronic ignition - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1908217#1908217
Bearing dummies - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1909221#1909221
Useful tool - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1909528#1909528
Electric start hole plug - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1909535#1909535
Quick disconnect fuel coupler - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1909745#1909745

Page 8

Adjusting Halogen headlight bulb focus - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1909891#1909891
Holding washers in place - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1910696#1910696
Tie-down hook - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1911878#1911878
Cable adjustment made easy - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1913300#1913300
Battery ribbons - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1914206#1914206
Tracing an airleak - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1914969#1914969
Pinch bolt tips - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1915787#1915787
Screw Jack - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1918223#1918223
Oil tank reassembly - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1918337#1918337
Alternate "jack" - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1918351#1918351
P200E Front Brake Switch Mod For New Cable - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1920820#1920820
Side markers/auxiliary turn signals - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1921164#1921164
Test Autolube - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1934460#1934460
Testing an electronic stator - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1936758#1936758
Rear Jack - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1936805#1936805

Page 9

Setting points - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1940505#1940505
Separating rims from the tire - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1940624#1940624
Removing smeared aluminum piston from the bore - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1943681#1943681
Easy gudgeon pin replacement tip - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1947679#1947679
Quick and Easy Throttle Cable Adjustment - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1947750#1947750
Longer hub studs for tubeless rims - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1951306#1951306
Setting your timing - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1953918#1953918
Quick trailer channel for transporting - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1955203#1955203
Better access to clutch pinch bolt - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1955244#1955244
Alternate key blank for Stella - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1955693#1955693
Rubber Engine Mount installation - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1955880#1955880
Mirror extenders/risers - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1958265#1958265
Compress wavy washer on gear/throttle tube - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1958265#1958265
Point setting tool - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1968931#1968931
Wheel shims - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1971408#1971408

Page 10

Removing rattle-can paint - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1975815#1975815
Idle jet chart - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1976416#1976416
Using icycle cables as gear cables - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1980862#1980862
Fitting exhaust gas probe - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1980878#1980878
DIY carb jets made easy - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1983161#1983161
How to gas up - http://modernvespa.com/forum/post1984883#1984883
Ossessionato
BV350, Primavera 150, Yamaha Zuma 125
Joined: 06 Jun 2013
Posts: 2802
Location: The Twin Cities of Minneapolis/Saint Paul, Minnesota
Sat Sep 16, 2017 6:27 am quote
Makeshift dipstick for coolant
The plastic reservoir was too thick to see the coolant level so I used a pipe cleaner as a dipstick. This is on my motorcycle but should work for scooters as well. The level was fine.

coolant.JPG

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special + projects
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7186
Location: seattle/athens
Fri Sep 22, 2017 2:15 am quote
almost free engine stand
Wish I had figured this out years ago

Next time you're wrestling w/ a motor, cleaning or dry fitting stuff, and you don't want to put it in an engine stand yet or you don't have one, try this:


I was rolling this motor around the bench, having wood blocks slip loose when I pushed or pulled too hard.
I spotted these two dead tires stacked up at the end of the bench and EUREKA!
The bottom one is mounted on a rim for more weight.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
Lx 50 4T, S 150, GTS 250
Joined: 21 Feb 2011
Posts: 7201
Location: KS USA
Sat Sep 23, 2017 3:30 am quote
Re: Makeshift dipstick for coolant
JKJ-FZ6 wrote:
The plastic reservoir was too thick to see the coolant level so I used a pipe cleaner as a dipstick. This is on my motorcycle but should work for scooters as well. The level was fine.
No it doesn't.

The Vespa reservoir shape is sort of weird. You would not be able to get past the first inch.

Good idea 'though.
Ossessionato
2 matching N.Z. '69 VBC Super, 177cc Racer, VespaCross Bodge, Puch SRA150, Piaggio Zip 100! & others
Joined: 26 May 2013
Posts: 3818
Location: Millbin, Ostrayleea, mate
Tue Oct 31, 2017 10:52 pm quote
Re: um but...
kyvelis wrote:
i must be stupid, trying to figure a way to mic jets, getting undersize jets, as in not advertised size resulting in scratching my head trying to work out WTF is going on so.. please tell me every one else has thought of this? please.... now tell me where to get drills 1.08mm thru 1.45mm in .02 to .04 increments...
Knowing a lot about (agricultural spraying) nozzles, it is a bad idea to put solid things into jets/nozzles, as it will change the taper/flow etc.
Instead, use a satay skewer or toothpick, bung it in the hole, spin it, then when you take it out you can easily see & measure the taper
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7044
Location: Victoria, Australia
Tue Dec 12, 2017 5:47 pm quote
Removing blind cage bearing
Moto64 wrote:
I made a small slide puller : I took a long 1/4" carriage bolt and ground the head off to leave one 'finger' then ground that on the head side until it just hooked under the bearing. I put a 1/4 coupler on that to extend it with another length of 1/4 all thread and slipped a weight ( don't remember what I used) and a washer and nut on that. Popped right out.

general idea : had to fiddle with the 'blade' part to get it to pry under the bearing and twisted it around to work it out. I wasn't concerned with saving it.
Hooked
2001 LML 150
Joined: 16 Jul 2017
Posts: 315
Location: Melb, Aus
Tue Dec 12, 2017 8:15 pm quote
Re: Removing blind cage bearing
Ginch wrote:
Moto64 wrote:
I made a small slide puller : I took a long 1/4" carriage bolt and ground the head off to leave one 'finger' then ground that on the head side until it just hooked under the bearing. I put a 1/4 coupler on that to extend it with another length of 1/4 all thread and slipped a weight ( don't remember what I used) and a washer and nut on that. Popped right out.

general idea : had to fiddle with the 'blade' part to get it to pry under the bearing and twisted it around to work it out. I wasn't concerned with saving it.
This is brilliant! Thanks for sharing it.
Hooked
2001 LML 150
Joined: 16 Jul 2017
Posts: 315
Location: Melb, Aus
Thu Dec 14, 2017 5:04 pm quote
Thought I should at least try and add something..

I use a foot long 1/4 inch ratchet extension and sockets wherever possible when working... It gives more room to see what you're doing and frees up the area to hold onto nuts, bolts or parts coming off. It reduces damage from ratchet handles and spanners if they slip too.
Hooked
1986 T5,1979 P200e
Joined: 30 Oct 2014
Posts: 422
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
Wed Sep 19, 2018 6:10 am quote
Cta tools #8060, (available on Amazon) removes bearing race from crank without damage.

BD9F1DFD-6DCC-478E-A960-D8682193931A.jpeg

Molto Verboso
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 1459
Location: London UK
Wed Sep 19, 2018 8:01 pm quote
Like it
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special + projects
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7186
Location: seattle/athens
Thu Dec 27, 2018 1:58 am quote
Clear explanation for setting cylinder base/head height
Thanks Joe!
saintscycleworks wrote:
Not sure if you have it set up yet but saw there were no replies so I thought Iíd offer some insight on the easiest way to get the cylinder and head set up properly so that it flows well.
First, I install the rotating assembly(crank and piston) without the rings and then lower the cylinder onto the case so that I can easily rotate the crank. At a minimum you want the exhaust port to be fully open at bdc. With a long stroke and long rod this wonít be the case. Use feeler gauges on either side of the cylinder to raise it until the piston drops below the bottom edge of the exhaust port. This is the min size packing plate you need. Install packing plate and raise cylinder to Tdc and measure where the piston is in relation to the top edge of the cylinder. A good squish for 200 and under cylinders is 1.5mm. Given typical combustion chamber volume this wonít be too high of compression and provide good performance. To get the squish, you may need to shave the head, shave the cylinder, or a combo of both.
This is an extremely simplified and basic setup procedure but typically works well for those that donít typically do advanced engine building but donít want to destroy an engine. Itís well worth it to also measure your timings for piece of mind. 175 exhaust 125 intakes have really good midrange without being too peaky. Above 185 and youíre going to be in and out of the power pretty quick.

Good luck! Look forward to pics!!

Joe
Addicted
'64 Motovespa 150S (177) , '64 V90
Joined: 27 Mar 2013
Posts: 570
Location: S.Salem, NY
Tue Jan 15, 2019 2:22 am quote
Big Circlip Plier
Where do you find circlip pliers big enough for the clip on the fly-side seal ?

DSC03654.JPG

Addicted
'64 Motovespa 150S (177) , '64 V90
Joined: 27 Mar 2013
Posts: 570
Location: S.Salem, NY
Tue Jan 15, 2019 2:48 am quote
More miggy stuff
Maybe some know this trick maybe some don't... When migging sheet metal, you can back it up with copper or aluminum and the wire won't just shoot through and blow it all open. This works nicely for a butt weld and is especially good for filling holes or even forming new areas. Using sheet copper, you can form it to make a molded shape to back up a spot. The face side should end up pretty even with the surface and can be easily smoothed out without excessive grinding while the back side can be left slightly proud so you don't risk grinding the metal too thin and have to start over and the plug stays put. You can 'dress' the front with more migging to finish if you like or just the smallest amount of filler takes care of it.
Sorry about the fuzzy pic but you can just see the copper behind the holes. I also used some aluminum to form the edges of a fin I made to replace one that was rotten. The aluminum and the copper are both good heat sinks, too. I wonder if you could actually 'print' on them with a Mig ?

DSC03632.JPG

DSC03633.JPG

DSC03635.JPG

DSC03623.JPG

DSC03628.JPG

Hooked
PX125E
Joined: 06 Oct 2018
Posts: 143
Location: Gravesend, Kent, UK
Tue Jan 15, 2019 9:48 am quote
Decoking tool for Iron Barrel.
Was bored with trying to remove the carbon from the exhaust stub with a screwdriver so I grabbed a hacksaw blade, ground off the teeth and ground the back to make it sharp and square then rounded off the end.
wrapped some electrical tape round the middle to make it comfortable to hold.
I was surprised how much more crap I scraped out with it.

Note: don't use it on the head or piston unless you blunt it a bit first
Addicted
GL, PK, PE200
Joined: 24 Apr 2012
Posts: 669
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
Wed Jan 16, 2019 2:38 pm quote
North America Max Meyer Paint.
List of some of the Max Meyer paints available at North America PPG automotive paint stores. The list contains the PPG name and code which are under their motorcycle/Piaggio category. Info provided by PPG North America Paint Library.
Also included is the PPG formula mix for other colors that were scanned by the late and great Green Tree Scooters. Also contains a Dupont automotive paint formula for the terrible Max Meyer Silver from the 70's.

Max Meyer Name: Verde Metallizzato
Max Meyer Code*Color: 6000M*Green Metallic (V98-V125-VIT-V15T)
PPG Code: 005
PPG Name: Verde EX 005

Max Meyer Name: Grigio azzurro metallizzato 15028
Max Meyer Code*Color: 1.298.8723*Metallic Blue/Grey(VBB & Cushman VBB)
PPG Code: 723
PPG Name: Griggio Azzurro

Max Meyer Name: Giallo texas 935
Max Meyer Code*Color: 1.298.2935*Yellow
PPG Code: 935
PPG Name: Giallo Texas

Max Meyer Name: Giallo arancio 916
Max Meyer Code*Color: 1.298.2916*Orange
PPG Code: 916
PPG Name: Giallo Arancio

Max Meyer Name: Verde Pastello 399
Max Meyer Code*Color: 1.298.6399*Light Green
PPG Code: 590
PPG Name: Verde

Max Meyer Name: Giallo Senape 985
Max Meyer Code*Color: ?1.298.2985?*Chrome Yellow
PPG Code: P4/8
PPG Name: Giallo Senape

Max Meyer Name: Sabbia 3002M
Max Meyer Code*Color: ????*Sand/Beige (P-Series)
PPG Code: P4/5
PPG Name: Sabbia

Max Meyer Name: ???
Max Meyer Code*Color: ???*Burgundy P Series???
PPG Code: P1/4
PPG Name: Rosso Viola

Max Meyer Name: Blu Marina 275
Max Meyer Code*Color: 1.298.7275*Blue (ET3)
PPG Code: P8/9
PPG Name: Blu Marina


Max Meyer Name: Rosso
Max Meyer Code*Color: ?1.298.5847?*Red P Series
PPG Code: 931
PPG Name: Rosso

Link to PPG formulas for Max Meyer Paint below: https://www.flickr.com/photos/greentreescooters/sets/72157630144324308/
Rosso*1.298.5847*Red(P Series)
Azzuro Cina*1.2987.402*Blue
Avorio*1.298.3909*Ivory (GL150)
Arancio 919*1298.4907*Orange
Giallo Arancio 916*1.298.2916*Orange
Grigio Biaccia*1.298.8714*White (GS 160)
Grigio Metallizzto*15005*Silver (GS150)

Dupont formula
Chario Di Luna Metallizzto*1.298.0103*Metallic Silver from 70ís
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7044
Location: Victoria, Australia
Fri Jun 14, 2019 4:31 pm quote
Stop clutch cables breaking
oopsclunkthud wrote:
Sharp edges where the cable passes through and flexing are the things that kill cables. I deburr the cable adjusters, tophats, levers...

Also the clutch arm on the largeframes (other than the GS/SS) does not let the cable clap hold the cable straight. This flexes the cable each time you pull the clutch. The following modification to the arm will keep things happy for a good long time.




Ossessionato
05 Stella, '62 VBB, 76 Sprint V, 63 GL
Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Posts: 2226
Location: Chicago. Well, Evanston, but that's almost Chicago
Sun Jul 07, 2019 8:46 am quote
I changed out the front dampener on my Sprint this morning and people bitch about how difficult it is to get the dampener properly aligned with the slot in the swingarm.

I fought with it for about thirty seconds before I decided there had to be a better way. Going back to the wisdom of Archimedes ("give me a lever long enough and I'll move the world," I clamped a 2x4 to the swingarm and it made getting the dampener and the swingarm aligned trivial.

Even better, I was able to hold it with my knee, so I had both hands free to finish up the install, which is kind've necessary because there's not a lot of extra bolt to work with for the nut & washers.

IMG_20190707_084734.jpg

IMG_20190707_084751_1.jpg
Look, Ma! No hands!

Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 461
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Sun Jul 07, 2019 2:18 pm quote
Moto64 wrote:
Maybe some know this trick maybe some don't... When migging sheet metal, you can back it up with copper or aluminum and the wire won't just shoot through and blow it all open. This works nicely for a butt weld and is especially good for filling holes or even forming new areas. Using sheet copper, you can form it to make a molded shape to back up a spot. The face side should end up pretty even with the surface and can be easily smoothed out without excessive grinding while the back side can be left slightly proud so you don't risk grinding the metal too thin and have to start over and the plug stays put. You can 'dress' the front with more migging to finish if you like or just the smallest amount of filler takes care of it.
Sorry about the fuzzy pic but you can just see the copper behind the holes. I also used some aluminum to form the edges of a fin I made to replace one that was rotten. The aluminum and the copper are both good heat sinks, too. I wonder if you could actually 'print' on them with a Mig ?
Trying this trick - struggling to get the energy right. The copper prevents the backed metal heating enough to weld. I get it for filling holes tho.

I am learning to weld so that is probably the main issue. Using a baby fluxcore mig.
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'76 Vespa Rally 200
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Posts: 549
Location: Melbourne
Sun Jul 07, 2019 5:08 pm quote
chandlerman wrote:
I changed out the front dampener on my Sprint this morning and people bitch about how difficult it is to get the dampener properly aligned with the slot in the swingarm.
I replaced my damper and spring for the first time a couple of years ago. On my first attempt, a friend and I tried together to force the swingarm up into place. We're not exactly weaklings between the two of us, but couldn't do it. Gave up. Then I watched the SIP video on installing the damper, and realized that they showed a helper repeatedly pressing the handlebars to force the front end down rapidly, while the other person popped the bolt into place. We tried this and had it done in under a minute. The spring is going to resist slow application of pressure more strongly than rapid pressure. There is probably some law of physics that explains this - Hooke's Law maybe?
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05 Stella, '62 VBB, 76 Sprint V, 63 GL
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Sun Jul 07, 2019 6:11 pm quote
Hooke's Law or Newton's Law of Restitution (Elasticity). I don't remember enough of the difference between the two.

Either way, I had the dampener sorted in no time at all without any helper but my knee
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'76 Vespa Rally 200
Joined: 13 Feb 2011
Posts: 549
Location: Melbourne
Sun Jul 07, 2019 6:22 pm quote
chandlerman wrote:
Either way, I had the dampener sorted in no time at all without any helper but my knee
I'll admit I've got more lengths of 2x4 than I have friends.
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Joined: 01 Sep 2017
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Sun Jul 07, 2019 6:37 pm quote
chandlerman wrote:
Hooke's Law or Newton's Law of Restitution (Elasticity). I don't remember enough of the difference between the two.

Either way, I had the dampener sorted in no time at all without any helper but my knee
Thorís Law - fix it with a hammer.

No wait... thatís mine.
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