I bought a Zumo 550 and I really love it. I mounted it onto the left mirror stem following the instructions from MV here, and ran it just on the internal battery, which works fine. But there are some features (like the gas gauge and odometer) that you need to have it hooked up to power from the bike in order to take advantage of – plus until you do that you’re limited to the 2-4 hour battery life of the Zumo.

I finally got the nerve to crack open my LX150 and figure out where to attach the power. I pulled off the headset, but there wasn’t any good place to find power there (at first I thought maybe off the headlight, but it’s a three-wire circuit, one for low, one for hi, one for return). Then I pulled off the horn cover, and found a fuseblock there with two 7.5 Amp fuses (see Photo 1). Checking the schematic in the workshop manual, I discovered that the battery has two 15 Amp fuses, running to two fuseblocks each with two 7.5 Amp fuses. Aha – so the fuses I see in the horn cover go directly to the battery via two orange wires. Perfect.

So the plan was to tap into this power AFTER the 7.5 Amp fuse. The (6-foot long) power cable that came with the Zumo has two wires coming off it – one for ground, and the other for power with a 1 Amp in-line fuse (see Photo 2). Here are the steps I took:
    1. I attached a spade clip to the ground wire on the Zumo cable (see Photo 3) – soldered it and crimped it to be sure of a good connection.

    2. Then I removed the screw attaching the horn and the fuseblock to the chassis (see Photo 1). This got me easier access to the wires coming out of the fusebox.

    3. I used a Tap Splice (see Photo 4) to attach the power wire from the Zumo cable to the power coming OUT of the fuseblock. Note: be sure to attach it to the thinner black wire, not the orange wire. Tap Splices are great – wrap it around the wire from the fuse box, insert the power wire from the Zumo cable into the second hole on the Tap Splice, then crimp them together with pliers. It makes an excellent connection, without cutting the original wire or having to strip it and tape it, etc.

    4. Then I repositioned the horn and the fuseblock on the chassis mounting bracket, and screwed it in HALF way. Next I inserted the spade clip on the top of the bracket just under the bolt, and tightened down the screw the rest of the way. Just be sure the spade clip is in contact with the bolt head, for a good electrical connection. (See Photo 5). And now before closing things up, I put the key in the ignition and turned on the power at this point, just to be sure nothing had shorted.

I also didn’t want to have to drill holes in the plastic or the body of the scooter, but I noticed that there was plenty of room around the space in the headset where the holes are to mount a windscreen. So as long as I can get the cable up into the headset, it can exit thru that hole and I don’t need to do any damage to the body of the scooter. And I decided NOT to shorten the Zumo power cable, even though it was 6 feet long. Just in case I decide to mount it in a different bike some day! No problem, there’s plenty of room under the horn cover to coil it up neatly and attach it with cable ties.
    5. Now I had to route the cable up thru the headset. If you look down thru the “neck” of the bike, from inside the headset, you can see that there is a round hole that the speedometer and electrical cables all go thru (see Photo 6). So I just threaded the end of the Zumo cable up thru that, and routed it out the windscreen mounting hole so that about 8 inches were hanging out.

    6. I used ¼-inch cable ties to attach the Zumo cable to the electrical wires going up into the headset. One tie on the top, one on the bottom. But I didn’t tighten them all the way, I left them fairly loose so that the wires could move a little if the needed to when the headset is turned left or right.

    7. Then I coiled up the extra cable, and attached it with a cable tie to the same bracket that the horn is mounted on – there’s a convenient hole in the back to run the cable tie thru. And I wrapped another cable tie around the coiled up Zumo cable just to keep it neat.

    8. Next I attached the other end of the cable to the Zumo mounting bracket. It just plugs right in, and there are two teeny tiny screws that came with it to screw it into the mount so it doesn’t shake loose.

    9. All that remained now was to reattach the horn cover, reinstall the headset, replace the mirrors, and reattach the Zumo mount to the left mirror stem. And Voila!

Using the Zumo with power from the bike is really nice. I love the gas gauge feature. This is a great solution for LX’s that have inaccurate gas gauges – just input in how many miles you get per tank, and the Zumo produces a gas gauge for you. And when your gas gets low, it will put up a message “Fuel low, press this button to locate the nearest gas station”!!!

My next mod will be to install bluetooth and a mic/speaker in my helmet, and get it talking to the Zumo and to my phone...

(Ignore the date on the photos, my camera is flakey).


Photo 1: Fuseblock and horn mounted to chassis, screwdriver removing bolt.

Photo 2: Zumo power cable, showing in-line fuse.

Photo 3: Spade clip soldered onto Zumo ground wire

Photo 4: Tap Splices

Photo 5: Fuseblock and horn remounted, with power and ground from Zumo cable connected.

Photo 6: View looking down into neck of scooter, showing power and speedometer cable routing (silver tube is speedometer cable) thru round hole.