I finally got round to doing the upgrade of all the things in the title last week...
Unfortunately I didn't get time to take any pictures, but the how-to wikis have already done a good job on that.
So I'll just make a couple of my own thoughts here after the job. Please bear in mind that this is the first time I've ever looked at the inside of a scooter transmission.
1) I used the buzetti tool for convenience, but there are other methods which I might have used such as the towel in the belt method which has been shown on youtube to lock the transmission while getting the big variator bolt off.
2) Take a note of the orientation of the roller cage sliders when removing the cage, just so you are confident of replacing them the right way.
3) I replaced the rollers with Dr Pulley Sliders. I was thinking about grinding away the radius fillet as in this post...
But thought that I'd give it a try just with the Dr Pulleys. The grundling is pretty much gone, but it may be there is a little more improvement if you modify you roller cage as above, I might have a go at that one winters' day.
4) I changed the clutch spring to a Malossi one. I looked for the required 55mm socket to dismantle the clutch, but since my local shop only charged me £15 to swap it over I did that instead.
5) I used one of my fuzzy washers, its has a slightly bigger inside and outside diameter to the original, but I checked and it still was well within the outer diameter radius where it would start to interfere with operation. more details here.
6) I used a 1" copper pipe on the ground too push the new belt into the clutch. Just roll the clutch backwards and forwards a couple of times until the belt is inside the diameter of the clutch and then you are good to go.
7) I bought a deep dished ring spanner to remove the rear clutch nut so that I could hold onto the centre of the shaft with another socket. I also used a piece of Velcro to hold the rear brake in the on position and the hand brake. This just about held the shaft still enough so I could break the nut free. I was wary of putting anything in the back wheel to lock the shaft after reading stories other people bending brake mountings by accident. When putting the nut on again, I tightened it up as far as I could with the ring spanner and then topped it out with the torque wrench using the shaft locking devices above. I was a bit wary of stressing the rear transmission which the manual warns against. Perhaps the only true ultra safe way of doing this is to use the ring spanner and a weight to apply the correct torque with a small socket/breaker bar on the shaft to hold it steady.
8 ) My torque wrench only goes up to 150 whereas you need 170 torque for the variator nut. To get round this, I started at 120 on the wrench and then torqued it up further up to 150, so I had confidence that the torque was getting close, and then just gave it a final tweak further with a breaker bar, which should be pretty near 170. Though that this was easier and quicker than mucking around with long poles and buckets of water..
9) I marked both bolts with paint marks on the nut and shaft so I can easily check back a couple of times and make sure they are not coming undone. I would have also used some Loctite if I'd had any...bottom line is that you do not want these coming undone while you are riding!
10) Given that I've done a number of different mods at once I can't tell what mods provided what improvement. Also I didn't have time to do use a gps app on my phone to do an acceleration test before starting which I'd originally intended to do...
Finally...whats it like to ride now...
Definitely smoother, without the low end grundling.
Not a massive increase in acceleration, but it is a little better.
Am I glad I did it...definitely, its a more refined ride now!
Once you've torn down a tranny once its quite easy to do again, and you'll save a lot of money changing belts compared to getting a shop to do it. It doesn't take that long either..