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UTC

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ET4 125 4T 1999 (gone) - LX 50 2T 2005 (gone) - PX 125 2016 (gone) - Sprint 125ie 3V 2016
Joined: UTC
Posts: 161
Location: UK
 
Hooked
ET4 125 4T 1999 (gone) - LX 50 2T 2005 (gone) - PX 125 2016 (gone) - Sprint 125ie 3V 2016
Joined: UTC
Posts: 161
Location: UK
UTC quote
Half of the dash lights on my 2005 LX50 2T had packed up due to corrosion on the crappy flexible circuit board Piaggio insist on using.

Yesterday I set about to do away with the flimsy plastic nightmare forever.

To do this you'll need:

9 pre-wired T5 bulb holders
9 T5 3 SMD automotive LEDs in whatever colours you fancy - I kept the original colours with the exception of the back lights which I made blue
Heat shrink and heat gun (or cig lighter!)
Waterproof 6 way pre-wired automotive connector
Waterproof 3 way pre-wired automotive connector
3 small ring connectors - either solder or crimp
Soldering iron, wire strippers etc and basic ability to solder..

1. Deep breath. Cut off the two loom plugs that connect to the rear of the headset. Using heat shrink, connect your 2 new plugs. Make a note of your wiring - the new won't match the old colours.
2. Remove the clear clock battery cover and 3 fuel gauge screws. Remove the bulb holders. Remove the PCB and burn it. Just kidding - keep it so you can confirm your wiring.
3. The trickiest bit. Replace all 9 bulb holders with your new pre-wired T5 holders. Wire them together, some in series, and then eventually back to the new 3 way and 6 way connectors. You are replicating the circuit on the PCB. I can provide the exact details if anyone's interested. Amongst your wiring you will need to incorporate 3 ring connectors - these connect to the fuel gauge screws.
4. Check everything..
5. Connect your new loom up. Unplug all your bulb holders. Start your engine - insert LEDs of your choice and check each one - the polarity is impossible to see so it's just trial and error as to which way the LEDs go in. When happy plug your holders in properly and replace your headset covers, etc.

Enjoy your new lights! The whole thing cost less than £20 from eBay, even in ripoff Britiain. Happy to answer any questions - I'm neither a mechanic or an electrician though!

If I was to do it again I would maybe make the wiring a bit neater but overall I'm very pleased.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory textUntitled by Andy Boucher, on Flickr

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory textUntitled by Andy Boucher, on Flickr

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory textUntitled by Andy Boucher, on Flickr

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory textUntitled by Andy Boucher, on Flickr

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory textUntitled by Andy Boucher, on Flickr

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory textUntitled by Andy Boucher, on Flickr

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory textUntitled by Andy Boucher, on Flickr

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory textUntitled by Andy Boucher, on Flickr
@kdude avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
BV 400 (21) , BV 350 (16) SOLD :( , Sprint 150 2015(SOLD), Liberty S150 2018
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2956
Location: Florida
 
Ossessionato
@kdude avatar
BV 400 (21) , BV 350 (16) SOLD :( , Sprint 150 2015(SOLD), Liberty S150 2018
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2956
Location: Florida
UTC quote
I had the same prob recently. I ordered a replacement speedo / circuit board to replace mine.

What you have done is a million times better than what i did. I'm so impressed i want to do the same thing one day.

I'm totally in awe with your work. Great job !

H..
OP
UTC

Hooked
ET4 125 4T 1999 (gone) - LX 50 2T 2005 (gone) - PX 125 2016 (gone) - Sprint 125ie 3V 2016
Joined: UTC
Posts: 161
Location: UK
 
Hooked
ET4 125 4T 1999 (gone) - LX 50 2T 2005 (gone) - PX 125 2016 (gone) - Sprint 125ie 3V 2016
Joined: UTC
Posts: 161
Location: UK
UTC quote
You're very kind.

I was told that replacement PCBs weren't available, which TBH was the main motivation for doing this. Having said that, the corrosive sea air here on the south coast would probably just eat a new PCB in any event..

Were you able to order just the PCB or did you have to buy the complete speedo?
@kdude avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
BV 400 (21) , BV 350 (16) SOLD :( , Sprint 150 2015(SOLD), Liberty S150 2018
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2956
Location: Florida
 
Ossessionato
@kdude avatar
BV 400 (21) , BV 350 (16) SOLD :( , Sprint 150 2015(SOLD), Liberty S150 2018
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2956
Location: Florida
UTC quote
le bouch wrote:
You're very kind.

I was told that replacement PCBs weren't available, which TBH was the main motivation for doing this. Having said that, the corrosive sea air here on the south coast would probably just eat a new PCB in any event..

Were you able to order just the PCB or did you have to buy the complete speedo?
The part no. was # 640716. In order to get the printed circuit board you have to buy the speedo. The cost including special shipping charges was $162.59

Again thx for sharing.

Howard
OP
UTC

Hooked
ET4 125 4T 1999 (gone) - LX 50 2T 2005 (gone) - PX 125 2016 (gone) - Sprint 125ie 3V 2016
Joined: UTC
Posts: 161
Location: UK
 
Hooked
ET4 125 4T 1999 (gone) - LX 50 2T 2005 (gone) - PX 125 2016 (gone) - Sprint 125ie 3V 2016
Joined: UTC
Posts: 161
Location: UK
UTC quote
Here is the wiring, for anyone interested.

Slight disclaimer - I haven't been able to get the fuel light to illuminate yet. How low does the fuel have to be before the light normally comes on? Needle touching the stop?
I don't really understand how the fuel gauge works and so may not have wired that quite right. That said, using the wiring below the actual gauge does work, it's just the yellow light that I can't get to come on.

6 way connector

YELLOW/BLACK to L Dash / R Dash / Mid Dash / Top Dash & Main Beam (pos)
YELLOW/GREEN to Fuel Light (neg)
WHITE to Fuel Light (pos) / top Fuel Gauge screw [ring]
ORANGE to Oil (pos)
PURPLE to High Beam (pos)
WHITE/GREEN to bottom Fuel Gauge screw [ring]

3 way connector

BLACK to L Dash / L Turn / R Dash / M Dash / R Turn / middle Fuel Gauge screw [ring] / Top Dash & Main Beam / High Beam / Oil (neg)
PINK to L Turn (pos)
BLUE/WHITE to R Turn (pos)
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