Modern Vespa

It may be "macho bullshit," whatever you think that means, but it's pretty much how things are done in fast paced shops, and yes, the better techs are able to rebuild a basic scooter engine without a torque wrench. The guy who does my personal stuff has never used a torque wrench that I've seen, and his stuff goes out and stays out, which is the sign of a good technician. A guy working on aircraft for the Navy isn't doing the same job as someone putting a top end on a motorcycle for flat rate. Nobody is saying not to tighten them down correctly, and that's pretty easy for someone who's been doing it for a long time.

Oh well. Guess it will be another week of ^^^^^.

I have to disagree with the Navy tech. they are working on a couple 100 million dollar aircraft. and things have to be perfect. All the outside panels are torqued to spec. No room for error period. If a faster came loose or broke because of being over tight and it goes down an intake they just lost an engine and quite possibly an aircraft or a life.

I agree with bubbajon no one has a calibrated wrist. I test mine when I had a detail for a month of doing nothing but torque wrench cals. I could never constantly get the same torque value every time when compared to using a torque wrench.

Some fasteners are way more critical than others. Head bolts/studs, Vari nuts and crankshaft nuts are a few examples

There's also the difference between a roadside repair and a job that is warranted. If I'm paying for it I expect it to be done properly. I'll add that's it seems only in the US where the job time is the same as the 'book' time. Elsewhere the mechs get paid a salary, rather than piece-time, thank goodness (cue the 'tipping' thread').

I normally never use a torque wrench - but if in unfamiliar territory (different machine say) then I'll use one at least for the first time. Assuming one's available that is.

Sensing that a few here are in a torquey mood, here is something to help you in tight space.
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/articles/view/2794/adjustable_torque_wrench_adapter__08-0380/

I had hoped my replacement studs would have been here saturday as the USPS estimated but they didn't get her until today. So I spent some time tonight on the engine. Got the studs in, jug in and the head on. All nuts tightened to spec so I am past my failure point! Quit for the night. Will do the timing chain, chain tensioner and rocker arm cover tomorrow night and if I have time start putting the engine back in the bike.

Wish I wasn't flying to Maine this weekend but it is unavoidable.


studs in, jug in, assembly lube applied.

Head back on. Wrenched to spec using a 1/4 inch drive. Not touching any nuts again. :)

Shiny!

dam sticky you got blood all over the piston.

Lookin Good !

Very slippery blood.

You staggered the ring gaps - right?

Yepper 120 deg. offset.

yeah sticky does stagger occasionally.
I predict he will again at the spring gathering this year.

I will be staggering in 3 hours.

OK top end is buttoned up. Spent a lot of time on the timing chain and I think I got it right. Turned the engine over a couple times and it was smooth through the intake and exhaust cycles (thanks for the tip Motovista). So next week I will hook it up and see if she fires. Updates then.

very nice

my I add a piece of advice.

do the break in how ever you want the first 50-100 miles. but dump the oil and filter at 100 miles and put new in.

Is it exactly 100 miles to the Spring Gathering then?

Thanks OAD. will do.

quite a bit further actually. If her shit is together I may be doing an oil change in NC.

And hopefully that is ALL you will be doing!


Saving this thread for my own sort of luck; my date is not a good one as far as your experience goes.

Put the bottom part of the injector in some fuel it can dry out mine did


Got it working again with JPdiag tuning program and a OBD2 USBcable

Do yourself a big favor and put on a few hundred or more miles, ideally over 600, before taking off on a long distance ride. Make sure not only the work you did, but everything else is working fine before pointing it North. Taking a vehicle out of the shop after extensive work and going right on a long distance trip has left many a motorist stranded.

Yeah it I can get finished this weekend I will have a weeks worth of commuting which will be about 230 miles. I will change oil on Wednesday. This trip I will have the truck and a built in recovery driver if I need her and mountain riding will give a nice blend of speeds for break in.

Hope all goes well for you, Sticky.

Thanks Brother.

Good luck Sir Sticky!
Hope all goes perfectly!

Looks like this one is almost in the books for ya! Self taught "Busted Nuckle Style"
I've been following your posts.
Best Of Luck to You

Last edited by Shiftless on Mon May 18, 2015 8:59 am; edited 1 time in total

Ok, closing in on the grand finale

Thanks folks. Fingers crossed.

Don't for get to bleed the coolant system....
...and fill the crankcase with oil.

after nearly 8 months, it'll be nice to see again what you do on your scooter rather than in your scooter Sticky

Best of luck the weekend

Edited

Last edited by Rank Bajin on Sun May 17, 2015 2:06 pm; edited 1 time in total

OK engine in place. On the first try after a second or two of cranking it fired on one stroke. I shut it off and tried again. Nothing. Shut it off and waited a bit then tried again. It fired twice then nothing and the engine light came on for the first time. Here is what it is doing now.

So here is what I have connected.
The wiring harness. Double checked it a moment ago.
The fuel line.

I have not connected put coolant in yet and have not connected the exhaust system. I hear the fuel pump come on.

I have the battery on the charger at the moment and am planning on checking the spark. Anyone have any other ideas? Would no coolant or no exhaust make it not want to start?

As long as it fired, it's probably good to go. More than likely, the lack of everything connected triggered all sorts of sensors.

I talked to OAD and he mentioned the fuel injector which triggered my memory about something maksor said about it drying out. I just started to pull the injector and when I disconnected the fuel line there was a lot of pressure built up. I am going to pull it and see.

Can you elaborate on this when you get a chance?

I am thinking the fuel injector is not working. I removed the bolts from the intake manifold and leaving the fuel line connected and the injector power supply (which I checked with a multimeter and it has power) connected I used the master key to turn to on. No fuel spray is coming from the injector.

OK Maksor. Here it is soaking in petrol in one of my favorite shot glasses. How long and then what do I do?

Do you have the O-2 sensor plugged in? I think you should at least connect this even if the downpipe is not fitted.

O2 doesn't matter it only reads a faulse reading with out it

Sticky when it sprays fuel again then its long enough :+