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Today myself and my uncle replaced the battery with a Motobatt battery (which can I add wasn't install and go, it was flat?) regardless.

Since putting it in the starter button doesn't work, when I say 'doesn't work' it doesn't even make the slightest noise at all when being pressed - but it kicks start fine and all the lights work - what have we done wrong??

It's an 1997 ET4 (no kill switch)
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Also when you turn the key, the fuel gauge suddenly doesn't go up. Is the battery just really really flat? I've got it on charge now.
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If that's a new Motobatt and flat, then it's faulty. Send it back. When I got my last one it read over 14V from new.
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It did an hours charge and went green but to no avail
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Measure the volts on it at rest and when you turn the bike on - headlight on but without trying to start. It should read 14v+ at rest and at least 12.6V when there's a load. If you haven't got a multimeter, go out and get one (about 10 quid) - they are extremely useful!
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How do I measure the volts on it? I don't have a reader thing
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MrBlueSky wrote:
How do I measure the volts on it? I don't have a reader thing
Buy one.
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Right I can't do that right now but WHY is the starter button literally doing nothing? It doesn't even make a noise like it's not working but it was fine a few hours ago - same for the gauge going up when you turn the ignition. Why why why why why?
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Because you almost certainly have a battery that's duff from the outset. That's not unknown with Motobatt - a few get through that are not up to snuff.

Send it back, get a replacement. When you get a good one, they are very, very good.

And still buy a multimeter.
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So you're pretty confident to say it's a dud battery, does that explain why it works on Kick but not the electric starter? I have asked for replacement procedures. Cheers
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MrBlueSky wrote:
So you're pretty confident to say it's a dud battery, does that explain why it works on Kick but not the electric starter?
Yes.
Quote:
I have asked for replacement procedures. Cheers
Good.

I'm assuming you've checked grounds etc - remind us why you replaced the battery, possibly that was a different thread but you started this one instead?
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It's on a thread somewhere when the Vespa arrived the previous battery was flat, I charged it for 3 hours and it did the trick, then the next morning it wouldn't start again. It was like it was flat again. So someone suggested the MotoBatt
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MrBlueSky wrote:
It's on a thread somewhere when the Vespa arrived the previous battery was flat, I charged it for 3 hours and it did the trick, then the next morning it wouldn't start again. It was like it was flat again. So someone suggested the MotoBatt
Probably me - and apols if this has turned into a hair-tearing exercise.

Once you do have a fully charged battery (but how would you know, you don't have any means of testing!) then I suspect (and hope) I'd have advised checking the charging system.

Get thee a multimeter.
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Well the charger I have turns green when it's fully charged
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MrBlueSky wrote:
Well the charger I have turns green when it's fully charged
How do you know it's fully charged? Never trust just one measuring device...
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Because it was on charge for about 4 hours and it stops charging when the lights go green, fail safe thing
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MrBlueSky wrote:
Because it was on charge for about 4 hours and it stops charging when the lights go green, fail safe thing
It's probably correct - but *you* don't know, you haven't double-checked. I'll add, just because a battery reaches a certain voltage, it doesn't necessarily mean that battery is good. The test is whether it can deliver current - lots of it.

I'd suggest getting your new battery to an auto dealer/retail shop and get it load tested. If it tests good, then you have some other problem in your bike - a high resistance somewhere perhaps. Again, without a multimeter, you're pissing in the wind. Only measurements will give you answers - our opinions here are only guesses based on your observations, and those haven't yet been fundamental ones, merely your own surmises.
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another vote for getting a volt meter or multimeter

your battery should be 12.5 volts as standard if the battery is duff it may only be charging to 6 volts but it will still show full on the charger as it is at capacity

when the bike is running it should show between 13 and 15 volts

any higher then they may be a regulator problem

any lower then 12 and there is a charging problem


but to check all this you need a meter
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Regardless, let's forget the reader for a minute - is a dud battery the only explanation as to why, when I turn the key, the fuel gauge doesn't move and, the electric starter has no effect (no sound, no response, nothing) BUT, it works on one simple kick of the kickstart?
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An ET2 can run without a battery connected at all. Which is really what you have with an open circuit battery.

I'm assuming all fuses, ground connections etc have been checked out - ah, no multimeter...
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you need to stop going on about the multimetre, I don't have one and wont be able to get one in time - I took the battery out of the slow when the bike was started and you can feel it rumbling, so it's definitely working in that sense - just not to electric start it
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MrBlueSky wrote:
you need to stop going on about the multimetre, I don't have one and wont be able to get one in time - I took the battery out of the slow when the bike was started and you can feel it rumbling, so it's definitely working in that sense - just not to electric start it
That make no sense whatsoever. Read and repost.

And just about any store sells a $10 multimeter.
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Does your brake light work when you pull either brake lever?
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I meant took it out of the slot it sits in
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What was rumbling? Batteries don't rumble...
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NightWing wrote:
Does your brake light work when you pull either brake lever?
Yes - but noticed that the indicators suddenly don't work
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MrBlueSky wrote:
NightWing wrote:
Does your brake light work when you pull either brake lever?
Yes - but noticed that the indicators suddenly don't work
Odd - both rely on the DC o/p of the regulator on an ET4.
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Whatever it is, that battery is to blame - no faults whatsoever electrics wise, but old battery was failing - replace battery; it all goes to pot. Will examine properly tomorrow
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I don't know if it would give those symptoms, but is it possible the battery was connected wrong? As I recall, the Motobatt has terminals on all four corners, so having a reverse connection is possible.
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It does have 4 terminals yeah and that's my reckoning too, maybe they need to be connected to the terminals that are 'behind' the ones that they're on now
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Oh FFS - can't you tell positive from negative?


Search for some buggered fuses as well if you did get it the wrong way round.
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Yes you tit I know what the + and - are.

I meant the battery has 2 of each

+ -

+ -


Set out like that
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Look again - you'll find that they're laid out like this:
|+  +|
|    |
|    |
|    |
|-  -|
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Depends on the point of view you're looking at bro haha
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RESOLVED
RESOLVED
RESOLVED

both fuses next to where the battery sits were dead and practically decayed - works fine
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Glad to hear it.
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If I didn't make it clear, I replaced said fuses haha Laughing emoticon
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