Smallframe with a P200 engine?
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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Tue Mar 13, 2018 9:23 pm quote
Duct tape is your friend here. It keeps the weld spatters from damaging anything.

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Tue Mar 13, 2018 9:25 pm quote
And a pic of the weld ground down and sanded as well.

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Tue Mar 13, 2018 9:31 pm quote
What it looks like from the other side.

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Tue Mar 13, 2018 9:36 pm quote
Iíve heard bad things about how a wide tire on the front of a Lammy makes it handle poorly...well, this should make my PK so unrideable that I will never have to worry about it being stolen.

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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7048
Location: Victoria, Australia
Wed Mar 14, 2018 12:24 am quote
Will the wheels be aligned? That's probably the tricky bit I guess.
Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Wed Mar 14, 2018 7:58 am quote
Ginch wrote:
Will the wheels be aligned? That's probably the tricky bit I guess.
No, the front wheel isn't going to be aligned with the center of the frame, but I'm planning for it to be lined up with the rear wheel. I knew of this before I starting this project that the front would be offset.
Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Wed Mar 14, 2018 7:53 pm quote
I worked on the P fork today. Since the PK uses the same style ignition and column lock as the PX, my P fork needed to be modified some to get the PK column lock to work.

First off I welded up the P column lock slot....

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Wed Mar 14, 2018 8:03 pm quote
I was thinking of the easiest way for me to cut a new slot in the fork for the column lock, and I decided to use my tube notcher. I used a 1.75Ē holesaw for the cut.

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Last edited by whodatschrome on Wed Mar 14, 2018 10:37 pm; edited 1 time in total
Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Wed Mar 14, 2018 8:12 pm quote
Since the tube notcher only cuts a hole in the center of a tube, I had to space the notcher up 1 1/4Ē to get an offset hole drilled.

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Wed Mar 14, 2018 8:16 pm quote
Notch all competed.

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Wed Mar 14, 2018 8:24 pm quote
I test fitted the fork back into the frame....and the lock lined up perfect on the first try!

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Wed Mar 14, 2018 8:33 pm quote
I removed the fork again to do some other stuff to it. I drilled a small hole in it at the very bottom of the fork. How come? Well, water can easily get down the fork tube by way of the speedo cable and brake cable holes, and a hole at the bottom lets the water drain back out.

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Last edited by whodatschrome on Wed Mar 14, 2018 10:39 pm; edited 1 time in total
Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Wed Mar 14, 2018 8:44 pm quote
I still havenít made a steering stop yet, so the pics that Ginch posted up gave me some ideas (thanks Ginch!).
I drilled directly though the 12mm high spacer and fork, then threaded it with M6 tap. I did that in three spots. I used 12.9 grade button head cap screws with Loctite.

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Wed Mar 14, 2018 8:52 pm quote
I turned the amps up on the big welder, and welded a chunk of 5/8Ē thick square block of steel directly to the bearing spacer. The block will act as the steering stop.

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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7048
Location: Victoria, Australia
Thu Mar 15, 2018 12:13 am quote
Very neat and simple!

What is that holesaw? I didn't realise they could cut through something like a fork.

Also, do you think that the fork is hardened in any way? I've heard people say you can't weld it because you will ruin the hardening... mine is welded and I'm perfectly happy with it, but you seem to know a thing or two about metals.
Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Thu Mar 15, 2018 8:05 am quote
Ginch wrote:
Very neat and simple!

What is that holesaw? I didn't realise they could cut through something like a fork.

Also, do you think that the fork is hardened in any way? I've heard people say you can't weld it because you will ruin the hardening... mine is welded and I'm perfectly happy with it, but you seem to know a thing or two about metals.
It did turn out fairly simple to do (though it did take a bit of time), so I'm quite pleased how the fork part of the project turned out!

The holesaw that I used is just a standard issue "bi-metal hole saw". They can be bought at most hardware stores (or Home Depot). I do carpentry, so I have about 40 different sizes of them. They are designed for both wood, metal, and plastic. Though it might seem like that using them in metal would wear them down quite quickly, that isn't the case. When properly lubricated, they're probably good for drilling 50 to a 100 holes?

I couldn't tell if the fork is hardened or not. It doesn't seem like it to me. It was easy to drill though with only a semi-sharp drill bit. It was easy to tap threads, easy to drill the notch for the fork lock, and very easy to weld. Also (in the event of a wreck) the upper portion of the fork can bend just as easy as the lower portion. I'd say it's not hardened unless someone with actual first hand knowledge tells me different.
Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Sat Mar 24, 2018 10:29 pm quote
Parts arrived, so I finally got to work on the scoot again today.

I made a different upper rear shock mount (for the frame) because the other one that I made was too tall, which jacked up the rear of the PK about an 1Ē too high for my likings. I forgot to get any pics of that yet. The other issue when using a really long rear shock, is that it will cause the exhaust to rub against the floorboards. To alleviate that, I heated up part of the down tube on the Sito+, and bend it down some. I now have clearance between the floorboard and muffler.

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Sat Mar 24, 2018 10:33 pm quote
I bolted up the centerstand to see how well it would fit. It didnít. The Sito+ was just too big. You can see in the pic that there's no room for the centerstand leg to pivot up past the muffler.

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Sat Mar 24, 2018 10:37 pm quote
I took the torch and heated up the leg until it was glowing red, and bent it out some.

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Sat Mar 24, 2018 10:41 pm quote
I then heated up the stand again, just a few inches below the first bend that I had just made. I bent the leg back towards the muffler so that it now runs parallel with the floorboard.

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Sat Mar 24, 2018 10:47 pm quote
Since my Smallframe has all sorts of Largeframe parts on it, the PK centerstand is now too short. I had to extend one side 1Ē, and the other side 1.25Ē (different lengths because of that funky bend that I did to one side of the centerstand).

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Sat Mar 24, 2018 10:51 pm quote
Here it is after welding with the welds ground down. I have a pair of the SIP aluminum feet that will be installed once I repaint the stand.

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Addicted
1966 SS180,1968 Sprint, 72' Rally ,74 V90, '64 GL 150 & too many projects!
Joined: 17 May 2010
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Location: seattle, wa
Sun Mar 25, 2018 12:51 am quote
I just gotta say I cant wait to see it run and think you are doing a fabulous job on a very unconventional project! Kudos
Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Sun Mar 25, 2018 6:53 am quote
Thank you Falcon! I've found that it's much more fun working on this project rather than on a standard P.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7048
Location: Victoria, Australia
Sun Mar 25, 2018 6:27 pm quote
whodatschrome wrote:
Thank you Falcon! I've found that it's much more fun working on this project rather than on a standard P.
Exactly! When I did my LML off roader it was kind of freeing colouring outside the lines.
Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Sun Mar 25, 2018 7:28 pm quote
Hereís a pic of the revised upper shock mount bracket. Itís .120Ē wall 1Ēx2Ē, and since itís 314 stainless steel, I wonít need to paint it. The upper rubber shock mount is halfway covering one of the mounting holes that I drilled, so I had to use a countersink bit to chamfer it for a countersink bolt.

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Sun Mar 25, 2018 7:30 pm quote
And a view from the other side.

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Sun Mar 25, 2018 7:53 pm quote
I mounted up a different sized tire for the rear...a wide 120/70-11! It was fairly easy to spoon it on a wide 3x11 SIP tubeless rim. I wanted a tire that was a little bit taller than a 3.5x10 because Iím using a T5 short 4th gear in the transmission. My thought it that the taller tire will bring the top speed on my P200 (that has a T5 4th gear) back up a few MPH. Hereís a side by side pic of a 3x10 vs. a 120/70-11.

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Ossessionato
1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 4874
Location: So Cal
Tue Mar 27, 2018 3:55 am quote
Loving this build and this thread... hot rodding done right.
Even the color is starting to grow on me. Keep it up man!
Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Tue Mar 27, 2018 7:15 am quote
Thank you! I'm having a pretty fun time with it. It's a very stress free build since i don't have to worry about originality or concours perfect paint. If it turns out i get shunned by the vintage community for hacking into a PK, i'm sure i'll be well accepted by any Ruckus crew, since i have those wide tires!
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special + projects
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
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Location: seattle/athens
Tue Mar 27, 2018 11:11 am quote
Shunned? I'll ride with you any time, I'd go out of my way to and I have a bike or two that would fit right in. Good work, good thread - MORE!
Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Thu Apr 26, 2018 9:56 pm quote
Iíve been busy working on other projects lately, so my PK got sidelined for the past month....it didnít stop me from ordering parts for it though.

I made it a point to work on it some today.

Originally, in order to fit the P200 engine in the PK frame, I had to take a hammer and beat in part of the frame so that the cylinder and cylinder head wouldnít rub against the frame. It looked a bit amateur, and no one would probably ever see what I did (because itís mostly hidden by the engine shroud), but I couldnít live with it.

First off, I cut the area out that i had beat in. Then I cut out a piece of contoured sheet metal that I had left over from replacing the floorboards in my old Ford pickup a few month ago.

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Thu Apr 26, 2018 10:10 pm quote
with the new piece welded in and the weld beads sanded down some. Though it's hard to tell, but the piece that I welded in is concaved shaped. There's plenty of room for the Largeframe engine now.

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Last edited by whodatschrome on Thu Apr 26, 2018 10:18 pm; edited 1 time in total
Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Thu Apr 26, 2018 10:16 pm quote
I purposely left the large intake hole intact just in case a Smallframe engine ever get reinstalled back into the frame.

I brushed on some DP primer for now. Iím not sure exactly what my plan is for how far I want to go with color matching the pink paint.

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Sun Apr 29, 2018 10:44 pm quote
Rather than spending a bunch of money on PPG products, I decided to spray bomb over the areas that I had primered. I found rattle can pink paint (that was no where close to matching) and went for it. Most of the pink will be hidden, so Iím not concerned.

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Molto Verboso
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Posts: 1736

Sun Apr 29, 2018 10:46 pm quote
The floor boards...

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Sun Apr 29, 2018 10:47 pm quote
As long as I keep the rubber side down, the underneath wonít be too obvious.

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Sun Apr 29, 2018 10:51 pm quote
I also made a plug in order to cover the large intake hole. First I cut two 4.5Ē pieces of aluminum on the drill press.

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Sun Apr 29, 2018 10:55 pm quote
I then squeezed RTV on the back sides of both aluminum circles, then installed one circle on the inside of the frame, and the other circle on the outside of the frame. I tightened the two circles together with a bolt.

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1736

Sun Apr 29, 2018 11:00 pm quote
I also bolted down one floorboard. I used a fair amount of Ultra Grey RTV between the floorboards and my aluminum floor plates. I used plenty of sealant, so Iím not concerned about water getting underneath.

The floor plates also do a good job of hiding all of the repairs.

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