OP
UTC
Enthusiast
Super 1966
Joined: UTC Posts: 67 Location: Louisville KY
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OP
Enthusiast
Super 1966
Joined: UTC Posts: 67 Location: Louisville KY
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UTC
Veni, Vidi, Posti
Joined: UTC Posts: 6483 Location: Tega Cay, SC
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
Joined: UTC Posts: 6483 Location: Tega Cay, SC
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Boy, those engine have gone up in price in the last few years. Anyhoo, in answer to your original question: I think the P engine is better and you did alright.
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UTC
Hooked
1979 P125X
Joined: UTC Posts: 359 Location: Everett Wa
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Hooked
1979 P125X
Joined: UTC Posts: 359 Location: Everett Wa
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you could probably buy a used p series bike and cannibalize the engine to make a better running machine and have spare parts for later than to buy an LML engine.
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UTC
Addicted
Viet-bodge
Joined: UTC Posts: 756 Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
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Addicted
Viet-bodge
Joined: UTC Posts: 756 Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
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Chopper1966,
I just hopped one up and installed it into my '64 Viet- bodge. Taller primary gear, Polini 177 jug, 24/24 carb and some light port matching. It's still in it's break in period, but it's running like a top.
Differences:
- The shackle to the rear coil over shock was a bit wider than the franken- Bajaj case I pulled out.
- The kick start gear and lever is the inverted dogleg PX type rather than the curved original. If you want to use the correct lever, you'll have to split the cases and swap out the kickstart gear. Otherwise, SIP has a curved lever that fits the PX shaft. The PX lever works fine as- is, but looks goofy.
-The wiring harness from the stator is terminated with bullet connector plugs rather than lugs.
-Your original exhaust may not fit the PX style case.
Other than that... it was a quick and easy plug- in replacement. Base timing on mine was 18°; right where I wanted it.
I'll let you know if I run into any trouble with it...
Best,
-Slashy
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UTC
Addicted
1974VLB 1979VSX 1974V9A
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Addicted
1974VLB 1979VSX 1974V9A
Joined: UTC Posts: 675
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I just sold a complete p200 for less than that.
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UTC
Molto Verboso
One or two fun scoots....nothing too precious
Joined: UTC Posts: 1973 Location: UK (South East)
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Molto Verboso
One or two fun scoots....nothing too precious
Joined: UTC Posts: 1973 Location: UK (South East)
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My big question: Are those engines any different to/better than the [much cheaper] ones that you can buy directly from India? If the seller has built these up using quality internals, then they should be good.
I would far rather find a decent Vespa PX engine and modify it to my needs, using hand picked internals.
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UTC
Veni, Vidi, Posti
Joined: UTC Posts: 6483 Location: Tega Cay, SC
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
Joined: UTC Posts: 6483 Location: Tega Cay, SC
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Unless you get one a donor one out of a Stella, or directly from Scooterworks, you are most likely getting one from a third party builder (Ebay) and these are the ones to avoid. This subject has been covered by Rob Hodge many times.
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UTC
Member
1970 Vespa Sprint, 1979 Vespa P125X, 1978 Vespa P200E, 1978 Vespa 50 Special
Joined: UTC Posts: 10 Location: New Hampshire
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Member
1970 Vespa Sprint, 1979 Vespa P125X, 1978 Vespa P200E, 1978 Vespa 50 Special
Joined: UTC Posts: 10 Location: New Hampshire
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I've looked at going down the LML route myself. Buying one from a reputable supplier (Scooter West, SIP, etc) is a good option if the goal is to just get a scooter on the road, with minimal labor. The state of the engine will be known, as it is a new engine.
I bought a very cheap basket-case P200E to steal it's engine for my Sprint. At this point I am finishing up the rebuild, and I can say I have spent more than the cost of an LML crate engine on it (I was planning on rebuilding the Sprint before I came across the P200E). That doesn't factor in labor either, but I enjoy rebuilding engines so I don't factor that in. If someone was farming the job out that would be an additional cost to figure in. Not much of the engine I bought still remains, pretty much only the cases and transmission, and most of the replacement parts were of a higher specification (i.e. Malossi 210 top-end and Mazzucchelli race crank). I know this isn't fair comparison, but it does illustrate that if you plan on building a tuned engine buying a cheap P is probably the best route.
In the case of my now engineless P200E I have been looking at the LML route. The P200E is rough enough it will never be more than a cut-down rat, dirt-scooter, a beater, or loaner bike at this point. I figure to rebuild a worn P engine will run around $500-$600 bucks worst case scenario using stock grade parts (top-end, crank, bearings, seals, and gaskets). The cost of buying a questionable engine can quickly reach the price of a LML crate engine if you need to rebuild it.
I guess I took the long way of getting to the point. If you just want to get a scooter back on the road, and the engine you have is not repairable, the LML is a safe bet. If you were planning on tuning and rebuilding anyways, I'd find a P engine to work off of.
I have a hard time trusting "rebuilds" from people I don't know either personally or through friends that will vouch for them and their work. I have had a "rebuilt" 1972 Husqvarna 400CR blow up in the driveway over a $3 base-gasket that caused $1,200 worth of damage (the piston, cylinder and crank were all junk). That type of bad taste lingers for a while. I now either rebuild any questionable vintage two-stroke engines I buy, or accept that I might have an expensive rebuild coming sooner rather than later.
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OP
UTC
Enthusiast
Super 1966
Joined: UTC Posts: 67 Location: Louisville KY
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OP
Enthusiast
Super 1966
Joined: UTC Posts: 67 Location: Louisville KY
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Thank you everyone and GoSlash for your input!
Very valuable information GoSlash! I hope to hear from you again about how it holds up. Does the metal look as heavy duty as the P? Thanks! GoSlash27 wrote: Chopper1966,
I just hopped one up and installed it into my '64 Viet- bodge. Taller primary gear, Polini 177 jug, 24/24 carb and some light port matching. It's still in it's break in period, but it's running like a top.
Differences:
- The shackle to the rear coil over shock was a bit wider than the franken- Bajaj case I pulled out.
- The kick start gear and lever is the inverted dogleg PX type rather than the curved original. If you want to use the correct lever, you'll have to split the cases and swap out the kickstart gear. Otherwise, SIP has a curved lever that fits the PX shaft. The PX lever works fine as- is, but looks goofy.
-The wiring harness from the stator is terminated with bullet connector plugs rather than lugs.
-Your original exhaust may not fit the PX style case.
Other than that... it was a quick and easy plug- in replacement. Base timing on mine was 18°; right where I wanted it.
I'll let you know if I run into any trouble with it...
Best,
-Slashy
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UTC
Addicted
Viet-bodge
Joined: UTC Posts: 756 Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
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Addicted
Viet-bodge
Joined: UTC Posts: 756 Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
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UTC
Enthusiast
VBB
Joined: UTC Posts: 77 Location: So Cal
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Enthusiast
VBB
Joined: UTC Posts: 77 Location: So Cal
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I also bought one from Hodgespeed, via SIP. I've been very happy with it honestly.
Wiring was a bit of a cluster, I wish it had arrived with some documentation, but after we got it sorted out the motor fired right up. Made a few adjustments to the idle speed and it runs great.
Perfect easy drop in replacement.
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UTC
Addicted
Viet-bodge
Joined: UTC Posts: 756 Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
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Addicted
Viet-bodge
Joined: UTC Posts: 756 Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
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swa45 wrote: My big question: Are those engines any different to/better than the [much cheaper] ones that you can buy directly from India? If the seller has built these up using quality internals, then they should be good.
I would far rather find a decent Vespa PX engine and modify it to my needs, using hand picked internals. swa45,
These engines are brand new production LML engines, direct from the factory. I don't know if that answers your question or not...
Best,
-Slashy
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UTC
Addicted
85 Vepsa PX150E with sidecar, 80 P200 with sidecar, 96 Goldwing with Hannigan Sidecar, LR87aj5, LR91aj3
Joined: UTC Posts: 578 Location: Central Washington State
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Addicted
85 Vepsa PX150E with sidecar, 80 P200 with sidecar, 96 Goldwing with Hannigan Sidecar, LR87aj5, LR91aj3
Joined: UTC Posts: 578 Location: Central Washington State
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A few years back against everyone warnings I in stalled one in my 150 P series and over the next three months crossed the US. Push the thing hard every day and never had a bit of trouble. When I sold it three years later it was still running strong and had the original spark plug.
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