Malossi 210 build thread - PWK30 tuning / making progress...
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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Location: Victoria, Australia
Sun Oct 14, 2018 1:40 pm quote
Good to hear.
Molto Verboso
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 1363
Location: London UK
Sun Oct 14, 2018 7:41 pm quote
All working out nicely. Once the needle diameter is weaker the 40 pilot jet will go from feeling big to feeling small. 45 is my feeling for the lowest final jet. Ending up with a weaker diameter is going to really help with getting the taper adjusted. Was seeming like even the weakest ones were too big.

The quickest way to the end is the same as ever. Keep the needle on middle clip until you're done with the pilot and diameter. Always check a new needle at 3/4 with a too big main jet. If it doesn't get near to 3/4 before the total bog out then something is not right. 1/8 temp should end up less than 280F and 1/4 less than 300F.
Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1571

Sun Oct 14, 2018 8:01 pm quote
Going back to carb to frame clearance, has anyone brought up using a longer rear shock extension? I canít remember offhand what the standard length is, but the one on my T5 is 2-3/4Ē long. It gives me more room for my Keihin.

5C4176F9-D268-4361-B572-0303E96161C5.jpeg

Ossessionato
1980 P200E, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
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Location: San Diego, CA
Mon Oct 15, 2018 4:55 am quote
Do they sell longer ones? Or would it be a homemade job?
Hooked
GS160
Joined: 11 Jun 2014
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Location: Ňland
Mon Oct 15, 2018 5:51 am quote
Iím almost certain I bought a couple of different lengths from S.I.P. Some yesrs ago.

Remember you cannot lift the rear too much if you have a pipe that goes towards the stand, angle of engine changes and you might get clearanceissues. Can be fixed with some pipework, off course.

On the plus side is you get fueltank higher, essential with a higher mounted carb.
Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1571

Mon Oct 15, 2018 7:03 am quote
Vespoholic wrote:
Iím almost certain I bought a couple of different lengths from S.I.P. Some yesrs ago.

Remember you cannot lift the rear too much if you have a pipe that goes towards the stand, angle of engine changes and you might get clearanceissues. Can be fixed with some pipework, off course.


On the plus side is you get fueltank higher, essential with a higher mounted carb.
Yes, yes, and yes.



Another bonus is that you will get a few more degrees of lean (selector box to ground clearance) if you're into riding fast and hanging off the side of the scooter when going around corners.

I have a 226 Vintage right hand pipe, and i happened to not have any clearance issues. Other's results may vary...
Ossessionato
1980 P200E, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 3708
Location: San Diego, CA
Mon Oct 15, 2018 7:48 am quote
I tried searching for it on SIP but had no luck. Anyone have a link? All I could find were the stock ones. Usually they suggest the fancy ones if you open the stock ones.
Ossessionato
1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 4763
Location: So Cal
Mon Oct 15, 2018 10:05 am quote
Not sure what stock is for a P, but Iíve seen them listed in all kinds of sizes ... 52.5mm, 51mm, 43mm, 41mm, 26mm, 25mm.

http://www.hotrodscooterparts.com//index.php?main_page=index&cPath=157_162&sort=20a&page=2

Motorsport has some too.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 50s x2 78 P200 84 Cosa 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special + projects
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Mon Oct 15, 2018 10:19 am quote
and Mercato has 26, 42, 48 & 52.5 here http://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Buffer?search=shock+spacer
Ossessionato
1980 P200E, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
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Location: San Diego, CA
Mon Oct 15, 2018 10:20 am quote
Now I see. I was looking for a fatter rubber piece but this is equivalent.
Molto Verboso
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Posts: 1571

Mon Oct 15, 2018 11:26 am quote
FYI, I just did the math conversion...my 2-3/4" spacer is about 70mm in length.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 50s x2 78 P200 84 Cosa 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special + projects
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 6996
Location: seattle/athens
Mon Oct 15, 2018 2:54 pm quote
that's sitting tall
Don't these screw together, same thread both ends? 26 plus 42 is 68 so that's close enough, but I'd weld the joint for insurance if I tried it.
Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1571

Mon Oct 15, 2018 5:18 pm quote
Re: that's sitting tall
V oodoo wrote:
Don't these screw together, same thread both ends? 26 plus 42 is 68 so that's close enough, but I'd weld the joint for insurance if I tried it.
I'd be hesitant (as in i would cringe at the thought of) on double stacking two extentions together like that. There already is enough stress on the shock shaft on how Piaggio designed it. I could see a small diameter extension like that snapping in half. Even if it were welded at the joint, i could especially see it snap right at the weld (i did screw two of them together for mocking up purposes though).

A guy could probably make a non-permanent extension with a little work an a welder. If you've seen a Clausse upper rear shock mount...kinda copy that similar shape to make a spacer block. I went with a permanent extension. When i cut down my T5, i welded EVERY seam, then welded in a upper shock mount extension that's made of .120 wall square tube.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 3708
Location: San Diego, CA
Mon Oct 15, 2018 8:00 pm quote
Well we don't really know how much I'd need anyway, since it didn't hit the last time out. I'd be tempted to try 26 (1 inch) if I see any contact. With those spacers, the longer you go the more likely to shear it where the threaded portion hits the body of the extension. It's definitely not just an up and down thing given the nature of the road.

Whodats, how did you decide your 70ish mm height? I'm taking it that at 70mm you are in the clear.
Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1571

Mon Oct 15, 2018 9:05 pm quote
sdjohn wrote:
Well we don't really know how much I'd need anyway, since it didn't hit the last time out. I'd be tempted to try 26 (1 inch) if I see any contact. With those spacers, the longer you go the more likely to shear it where the threaded portion hits the body of the extension. It's definitely not just an up and down thing given the nature of the road.

Whodats, how did you decide your 70ish mm height? I'm taking it that at 70mm you are in the clear.
I was trying to fit a 35mil Keihin on a MMW reed block AND have the carb straight up and down. It was a downward (upward?) spiral of cause and effect...I made a 1" thick intake spacer to keep the carb bowl from fouling out on the plastic cylinder shroud...and since I did that, I ended up doing everything else to accommodate for it. 70mm is what made a great clearance for everything, so I went with it. And the bonus was more ground clearance for the selector box. Before mod, I would grind halfway though a selector box in one day. After that mod, I scraped it only a few times the whole season.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 6951
Location: Victoria, Australia
Mon Oct 15, 2018 9:31 pm quote
I'm absolutely not doubting that you scraped the box less with the extension, but I still can't work out why!
The selector rod is in the centre of the axle. The relationship between the tyre and the selector box hasn't changed. Perhaps as the front of the motor goes up (compared to the back), the selector box rotates and the bit that will scrape is now closer to the rear stud... meaning it's that little bit higher?

Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1571

Mon Oct 15, 2018 10:29 pm quote
Ginch wrote:
the selector box rotates and the bit that will scrape is now closer to the rear stud... meaning it's that little bit higher?

Yes, that right there. Those precious few degrees...
Ossessionato
1980 P200E, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 3708
Location: San Diego, CA
Tue Oct 16, 2018 4:25 am quote
Thanks whodats, itís clear now how you got to 70, I doubt I will end up that far but the idea is the same.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 3708
Location: San Diego, CA
Sat Oct 27, 2018 2:46 pm quote
162 main
18 hole atomizer
45 pilot
HKH needle

1/4 throttle temps 300F at the plug - it's on now

Main reduction

162-158-156 giving better rev out at 1/2 and 3/4. 1/2 revs all the way to 8000, but 3/4 only to about 6900 at 158 main and 7300 with 156 main. Cut main to 154, 3/4 peak RPM is 7400 or so. I think I can squeeze the main further, maybe 152 or even 150. It should rev out at 3/4 the same as at 1/2. It's a bit tricky to find the main as it doesn't burble up there but just fails to rev out, so I'm using that as my indicator. If revs don't go up with a main cut, I guess I'll be done.

Bike feels like a proper bike now.

I think the fuel pump bypass needs to get bigger, coming from WOT to low throttle (stop) sometimes gives flooding. Got a 160 AC in there now, maybe it needs to drill out to 1.8 or 2mm.

Also - no indication that the carb is hitting the body. I'm starting to think it hit the body with the previous Polini manifold.
Molto Verboso
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
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Location: London UK
Mon Oct 29, 2018 12:42 am quote
Getting closer to usable now. Rolling off the throttle can be just as telling as opening up.
Its possible that the diameter is too rich yet the length is too short. At 1/4 it ends up good (300F) but above and below sounds like its out. Seems like too rich at 1/8. Some sound recording of a city ride would help.

Need to be cautious dropping the main jet. Way too rich and way too lean both don't rev out when wide open. Two jets down from burbling is usally it. plug colour is a big help here.

Be sure that the mixture screw is adjusted after a long WOT run to be sure its fully hot.

How tight was your squish? Might have too much timing.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 3708
Location: San Diego, CA
Mon Oct 29, 2018 6:42 am quote
Yeah the problem seems to be that 1/4 and idle-1/8 are out of sync and there is no clear way to get them together. This idle jet is too fat, the air screw likes 2 turns out better than 1.5. Going leaner on the diameter will make the 1/4 throttle temps worse still. At HKG and 42 pilot the 1/4 throttle temps were slightly better than this combo of HKH and 45 pilot, but pretty close. There are no alternate slides available. As for length, there are 2 other lengths. The F length makes it MUCH richer in the 1/4 -1/2 throttle area, and the L makes it a bit leaner. I'm not sure how to apply either of those choices to the situation at hand. The JJH actually looks more useful than the HFH based on the chart. I have that one at hand already. This would let me lean out the idle jet while keeping 1/4 happy. The problem will then be getting 1/2 and 3/4 happy. As soon as you move the clip much it looks like you are back in trouble at 1/4 based on the charts.

As far as main jet leaning out goes, I was going 1 jet at a time to check the rev out. It clearly improved (+1000 RPM or more) as I went from 162 to 154, so I've got to imagine 162 was on the rich side and I'm working 1 jet at a time.

At this point I don't give a crap about the optimal solution, only one that lets me use it, so good enough is good enough.

Squish was 1.0 and timing is still at 16 degrees. Any of the above point to the need to put the packer back at the head instead of the base of the cylinder? I'm not sure....

needlecompare.PNG

Ossessionato
1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
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Location: So Cal
Mon Oct 29, 2018 7:38 am quote
16į timing seems a bit extreme.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 3708
Location: San Diego, CA
Mon Oct 29, 2018 8:12 am quote
It's been there since the knocking thing came up. Which has improved significantly now. I'm betting I should take it back to 18, but have been wanting to be conservative for now.
Hooked
1966 Sprint 150 & px200 and a shed full o shit
Joined: 15 Aug 2016
Posts: 114
Location: New Zealand
Mon Oct 29, 2018 1:27 pm quote
sdjohn wrote:
It's been there since the knocking thing came up. Which has improved significantly now. I'm betting I should take it back to 18, but have been wanting to be conservative for now.
I've been following this build with interest (a lot went whoosh over my head tbh) and glad you are finally getting there. Good on you for not giving up, regularly updating us all, and not just whacking on a Pinasco or something.
Should be a rocket when done.

I can't remember 38 pages or so but am wondering what your current compression ratio is?

Cheerio,

PC
Hooked
PX 150
Joined: 15 Sep 2006
Posts: 475
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Mon Oct 29, 2018 1:29 pm quote
I was having a lot of issues carburettor jetting, heat pinking etc and tried so many different combinations but one thing that brought everything together and made the scooter run like a factory bike was the variable timing
Ossessionato
1980 P200E, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 3708
Location: San Diego, CA
Mon Oct 29, 2018 1:39 pm quote
PC73 wrote:
sdjohn wrote:
It's been there since the knocking thing came up. Which has improved significantly now. I'm betting I should take it back to 18, but have been wanting to be conservative for now.
I've been following this build with interest (a lot went whoosh over my head tbh) and glad you are finally getting there. Good on you for not giving up, regularly updating us all, and not just whacking on a Pinasco or something.
Should be a rocket when done.

I can't remember 38 pages or so but am wondering what your current compression ratio is?

Cheerio,

PC
I'm running the Scooter & Service lower compression head, which knocks about 1 point of CR off from the stock Malossi 12:1 head. The knock issue doesn't seem to be coming up much at the moment. This head was recommended for making life easier on the knock front. Vader told me he has run them with good luck.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 3708
Location: San Diego, CA
Mon Oct 29, 2018 1:42 pm quote
jimscoot wrote:
I was having a lot of issues carburettor jetting, heat pinking etc and tried so many different combinations but one thing that brought everything together and made the scooter run like a factory bike was the variable timing
I think I have to wait for page 47 or something to jump on that bandwagon, stay tuned . Interesting point of reference though. I might end up there at some point. I don't doubt it helps. I have the variable CDI that comes from France sitting broken on my shelf, I did try at one point.
Hooked
1966 Sprint 150 & px200 and a shed full o shit
Joined: 15 Aug 2016
Posts: 114
Location: New Zealand
Mon Oct 29, 2018 2:01 pm quote
sdjohn wrote:
PC73 wrote:
sdjohn wrote:
It's been there since the knocking thing came up. Which has improved significantly now. I'm betting I should take it back to 18, but have been wanting to be conservative for now.
I've been following this build with interest (a lot went whoosh over my head tbh) and glad you are finally getting there. Good on you for not giving up, regularly updating us all, and not just whacking on a Pinasco or something.
Should be a rocket when done.

I can't remember 38 pages or so but am wondering what your current compression ratio is?

Cheerio,

PC
I'm running the Scooter & Service lower compression head, which knocks about 1 point of CR off from the stock Malossi 12:1 head. The knock issue doesn't seem to be coming up much at the moment. This head was recommended for making life easier on the knock front. Vader told me he has run them with good luck.
That was quick!

Any idea how many PSI measured with a gauge?

I have been mucking around with Excel making a spreadsheet to help me get my head around things and learn some theory. I used this formula (from Bell or Jenning's book I think) to calc compression ratio:

Cylinder volume + combustion chamber volume / combustion chamber volume (therefore CV + CCV / CCV)

e.g.

CV 224.36 This is your calculated cylinder volume
CCV 30.00 Enter your Combustion Chamber Volume to see how it changes your Compression Ratio

CR 8.48 This is your Compression ratio based on your inputted Combustion Chamber Volume


A std px150 is 8.2:1 for reference

Cylinder Volume is: Pi x bore2 x stroke (therefore PiB2xS)

Pi 3.14

B (bore mm) 69.00 63.00 is the bore of a Polini 177 kit - enter your own measurements here
B2 (bore2 mm) 4761.00
S (stroke mm) 60.00 57.00 is the stroke of a Polini 177 kit - enter your own measurements here

4000 A constant from Graham Bell Book

CV 224.36

PX150 reference is: 149.56

EDIT: Here is the formula using the 4000 constant: (3.14 x Bore2) x (Bore / 4000)

Cr to PSI: atmospheric pressure x compression ratio (therefore AP x CR)

AP 14.70 This is Atmospheric Pressure at sea-level
CR 8.48

PSI 124.64 This your Calculated CR converted to PSI



PX150 reference is: 120.54 (Calculated using this formula- not reported or measured)


These are cut and pastes from my spreadsheet so not formatted very tidy here, sorry. Hopefully I have done it correctly so I don't steer anyone down the garden path. Use at your discretion and feel free to point out any mistakes. I'm a noob, and you guys prolly know all this, but maybe they'll be helpful to someone some time.

Cheers,

PC
Ossessionato
1980 P200E, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 3708
Location: San Diego, CA
Mon Oct 29, 2018 4:00 pm quote
As to compression in PSI, I canít find a record that I did it after I installed the head. Will try to get one sometime soon, but the head has a lot more volume than the Malossi standard one.
Hooked
1966 Sprint 150 & px200 and a shed full o shit
Joined: 15 Aug 2016
Posts: 114
Location: New Zealand
Mon Oct 29, 2018 4:23 pm quote
sdjohn wrote:
As to compression in PSI, I canít find a record that I did it after I installed the head. Will try to get one sometime soon, but the head has a lot more volume than the Malossi standard one.
Just thinking if you just want to be able to just ride it for a bit maybe have compression around standard and move your timing to 18ish? I say this after reading your previous post regarding using spacer gaskets. Gaskets will naturally lower your compression and throw out your squish (1mm at present?). An increase in squish might not hurt too much at the end of the day.

If your compression still turns out to be way high just chucking one on the head, and moving timing, might be worth trying out as a quick & easy trial.

My bikes are standard but I've sort of been wanting a kitted one again just for city use. I have a few motor and frame options lying around. I like the look of the cast Stelvio 177 or a 225 Malossi too.

Good luck,

PC
Ossessionato
1980 P200E, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 3708
Location: San Diego, CA
Mon Oct 29, 2018 5:38 pm quote
I have the whole variety of head and base packers. I would just drop the 1.5mm base packer and substitute a 1.5 head gasket with a very thin base gasket.
Hooked
1966 Sprint 150 & px200 and a shed full o shit
Joined: 15 Aug 2016
Posts: 114
Location: New Zealand
Mon Oct 29, 2018 6:57 pm quote
sdjohn wrote:
I have the whole variety of head and base packers. I would just drop the 1.5mm base packer and substitute a 1.5 head gasket with a very thin base gasket.
I was sorta thinking to determine how much compression you currently have just to be on the safe side. And then see if setting it (if required), to somewhere near standardish, would allow you to put the timing to 18-19 degrees (the spec for the kit on SIP website) without the dreaded knock happening or blowing the piston. I'd do this in the first instance by just slipping on a head gasket.

I'd have more piece of mind, at this stage of the game, if I knew the compression wasn't mega. Perhaps performance overall would improve if timing was set to Malossi specs? This might also affect how hot things are getting too?

Maybe others, with more experience than me, could chime in with what sort of compression range is desirable / run on their scoots (or maybe start another thread as a reference?).

Anyway, you've done a great job so far, and it can't be far away now. The input and support from everyone has been excellent too.

Cheers,

PC
Molto Verboso
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
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Location: London UK
Mon Oct 29, 2018 11:27 pm quote
This has been a busy thread today. In summary.
16 degrees timing is much safer than 18 (lower = safer)
With this LTH head John's compression is more on the low side for a 221, also safer.
Variable timing is better for any set up, even stock.
1.0mm squish is not small but a fair choice for this build. 1.2mm would be the biggest and 0.6mm could be the smallest. In a set up that would often go to higher rpm, a tighter squish gives more power while actually reducing the ability to detonate or seize.

Back to the jetting. Not what you want to hear but based on what you have said and some thought on my part, your taper length is too short. Hopefully the F length (shorter is richer in reverse to dellorto) is too rich but might be able to get it corrected on the clip.
If 2 turns on the airscrew now, then the smaller pilot was correct. The richness you are feeling on the roll off, might be that the diameter is too rich and you are over corrected at 1/4 with a too short taper.

Try to only adjust 1/8 throttle with the diameter. 1/4 with the clip/length and 1/16 with the pilot jet. They all affect each other but this method should help separate them. The bleed over is massive here but stick at it, working on each jet in rotation and it will improve.
Ossessionato
1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 4763
Location: So Cal
Tue Oct 30, 2018 4:29 am quote
Well 16į timing might be ďsaferĒ for balls out WOT riding, but itís not optimal across the full band. I think with that much retard he might be leaving some low to mid throttle power on the table.
Molto Verboso
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
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Location: London UK
Tue Oct 30, 2018 8:05 am quote
With one fixed setting it's always a tough call. To get the mid range up, over 20 degrees is needed. For balls out WOT and sustained over 8000 rpm riding, about 13 degrees. The 16 setting is already a safe compromise. I would be happy to leave it there until running clean at all throttle points.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 3708
Location: San Diego, CA
Tue Oct 30, 2018 10:53 am quote
OK so I've spent some time fiddling with kyajet. Jack, you are recommending to go with the F length. I've done a comparison with that and some needles I do have, fiddling with clip position to get something close. It looks like I can use a GJK on clip 4 or a JJK on clip 4 to get the similar leaning out of idle - 1/8 and then between those 2 I can choose how rich to make the 3/8 and above. In fact I like the looks of those 2 options better than the GFH on clip 2, as the 3/8 richness is less and they let me pick between rich and not so rich on the 1/2+. I think I will start with one of those. I had already been thinking to try JJH now because the midrange cleaned up several main jets ago, so it is probably moving to lean side even as I try to find a main jet to rev out. So at any rate, the J taper is worth re-evaluating. With this in mind, I'm thinking to try JJK on 4th clip.

needlecompare.PNG

Molto Verboso
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 1363
Location: London UK
Thu Nov 01, 2018 12:38 am quote
As far as I know JJK is a common needle size for a PWK. Got a good feeling about this one. When you can have a decent speed and ride around while only using zero to 1/4 throttle, the bottom end is pretty close.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 3708
Location: San Diego, CA
Sun Nov 04, 2018 2:29 pm quote
JJK with 158 main/45pilot/clip4 = too rich to drive at 1/2 plus, same at 152 main

GJK clip4, 152 main 45 pilot is ok for most of throttle range but 1/8 stutters

JJH clip 3, 152,45 is not too bad but is rich stumbling a bit at lower revs in particular at 1/2-3/4

HKH , 3rd clip, 45 pilot, 152 main is sweet, now revs to 7680 .

I think we are now solidified for a bit to put it into service. I have to open the bypass loop up more, still some flooding, especially after downhills coming from high throttle and the down to idle. Opened up a 120ac from my stash to 2mm, should help vs. the 160 ac I am currently using. Have to get that in and check, I know the spots to test it now, they are repeatable.
Molto Verboso
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Location: London UK
Wed Nov 07, 2018 7:13 pm quote
Would seem like it is now usable. Put it back in the bike rotation and this will help iron out the issues.

Rolling off from high rpm and having flooding issues is usually the diameter and/or pilot jet being too big.
Difficult to tell between them but when the pilot jet is too big there is a rich feel at 1/16 and hot starting is not so good.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 3708
Location: San Diego, CA
Thu Nov 08, 2018 9:19 am quote
I've put the opened up bypass restriction in, need to have a go at checking for flooding with it now. If it is jetting causing the flooding (like you mention as a potential cause) then I'd have to go with pilot (45->42) over diameter - there isn't much room to move at 1/4 but the pilot should do less to raise temperature than the needle diameter. I think I may have HKJ, so we can try it either way. At this point I'll violate the 300F temps if it's only a bit in order to get it moving.
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