Cylinder vs crankcase (reed) induction
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Mon Dec 17, 2018 12:55 am quote
Looking good. Still not as big as some but if you just tidy and blend it all in it will do.
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Mon Dec 17, 2018 11:04 pm quote
In an ideal world, I would have started with a stock rotary valve, but with the existing handiwork, my only option is to go bigger, but then I'll need to grind away at my new reed block housing. Not something I relish, but if it improves the end result, then so be it.
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Sun Dec 30, 2018 4:39 am quote
Inlet mods.....continued
There is a set of 200 cases on UK eBay at the moment, as can be seen in my first picture. The inlet length is not very large, but the blending into the crankcase looks interesting. If you have modified cases for reed induction, did you go to this extent, and can you suggest any additional work this guy could have done?

I've ground a lot of material out of my own cases, and want to make sure I've not missed any tricks. My inlet so far is shown in the second picture.

Screenshot 2018-12-30 12.19.27.png
Other person's inlet. Smaller, but blended deep into the crankcase.

20181230_123045.jpg
My inlet, matched to the S&S reed block. Bigger, but not much blending yet.

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Fri Jan 04, 2019 11:13 am quote
No need to go quite as far as that one but all traces of the rotary pad should be removed.
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Fri Jan 04, 2019 12:47 pm quote
I havent gone that far with mine mainly to keep strength in the casings.
The more you remove the more you weaken.
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Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:49 pm quote
I'm bored of Dremeling
I'm going to call time on the inlet enlarging and reshaping. It's big enough and it's blended in nicely to the S&S reed manifold. I did hit the JB Weld in a couple of places, but it's thick and very solid. Next job is to install the dummy bearing and crank, and then start measuring and setting the cylinder height. I'm hoping to find some nice port timings and compression ratio, without having to get the head machined.

20190106_202702 (1).jpg
Should be good for a 35mm PWK or TMX

Molto Verboso
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Sun Jan 06, 2019 1:05 pm quote
Came out really nice!! Don't forget to smooth out the pointed section just like in my photos (Jack's advice) to ease the "charge" flow...

29258292_2044415935573422_4626365851572895744_o.jpg

29257753_2044412992240383_7986889035811389440_o.jpg

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Mon Jan 07, 2019 8:27 am quote
Hello SaFiS, I have done that, but the photo doesn't show it too well. I don't want to get too close to the crankcase stud.

BTW, did you receive your CMD backing plate and input shaft support? Tell us about it if you did. I'm thinking about how to strength my cases, and trying to find an external method, rather than the internal plate like you have.
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Tue Jan 08, 2019 7:13 am quote
Crankcase transfer ports
So I can see clearly how the original ports in a 200 case will present an obstruction to the flow of charge into a Malossi cylinder. How important is it to fill these first, then re-cut to the Malossi profile? How much difference to the power potential does this make?
Veni, Vidi, Posti
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Tue Jan 08, 2019 5:38 pm quote
I think there is only one spot that needs filling. It's not hard to do, and you would have to think if it was left hollow it would upset flow on that one side. I used JB weld the first time and eventually it came loose (guess I didn't prepare it well enough). But because of the shape it couldn't go anywhere and didn't present a danger.
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Tue Jan 08, 2019 10:33 pm quote
Cheers Ginch,

on my one, I have two original ports which create a hollow behind the packer, one on each casing. The flywheel side is the bigger obstruction and the one on the clutch side 'could' be dealt with by grinding the packer and cylinder a little bit. I'm inclined to do both.

My experience of JB Weld is very good and would happily use it over and over. The only time I've had problems is with that putty stuff that comes as a 'stick' which you mould into position after playing with it to mix the two parts.

Talking about Malossi packers, I bought two (both BGM). The 1.0mm is a perfect match to the MHR cylinder, but the 0.8mm would need a lot of work, as would the base gasket that came with the kit. Are there differences between an MHR and a Sport in terms of base transfer shape and size? The packers are sold as interchangeable.
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Wed Jan 09, 2019 12:20 am quote
I'm pretty sure they are both the same in the transfer shape area.

This is interesting and a pretty liberal use of two part filler. I asked them what the product was and it was super expensive, like 5 times the price of JB but no higher temperature rating. Anyway I do like their preparation (the divots) which must make it hang on a lot better.
https://www.facebook.com/pg/WhiteOneRacing/photos/?tab=album&album_id=951767151590709

Clipboard01.jpg

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Wed Jan 09, 2019 1:28 am quote
That looks good, but I'll need to recover an old Facebook account to see the detail. The filling of the ports and the grinding out will be a doddle. My only concern is how to achieve perfection at the base gasket surface. Inevitably, the JB Weld, or alu weld for that matter, would not be flush, so machining it back to get a perfectly flat surface would be tricky. I'm thinking a bridge across the ports which can be removed when the JB is solid, but just before it goes off.

Any tips chaps?
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Wed Jan 09, 2019 1:50 am quote
Ginch wrote:
I'm pretty sure they are both the same in the transfer shape area.

This is interesting and a pretty liberal use of two part filler. I asked them what the product was and it was super expensive, like 5 times the price of JB but no higher temperature rating. Anyway I do like their preparation (the divots) which must make it hang on a lot better.
https://www.facebook.com/pg/WhiteOneRacing/photos/?tab=album&album_id=951767151590709
I have just noticed that the right hand side port in this picture is smaller than my MHR, so I'm assuming this is the old Malossi 210? The MHR right hand port mirrors the left hand, which makes it taller (towards the top right stud), with the same straight angle at the top, rather than the curve shown in the picture. It almost lines up with the original port on the right, which is why I may only need to fill and grind in the other two places.
Molto Verboso
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Wed Jan 09, 2019 2:37 am quote
The packers SIP has are "all over the place", with their shitty translation. Some are cut for the old 210/MHR and some for the new Sport/MHR. Cause of this, I got my set from MRP just to be safe. No 0,8mm though in the set. For a friend's old 210 I didn't know what to get, so I ordered the ones which seemed to have the smallest ports in the photos...

Your porting should probably look like mine...
Molto Verboso
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Wed Jan 09, 2019 5:26 am quote
I've tried the dimpling like those guys did before. It was harder than one would think.

Anway, here's the photo from their FB page for those who don't use facebook at all (as opposed to having accounts, but not reading or posting, like me).

dimpling.jpg

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Thu Jan 10, 2019 1:01 am quote
Safis does some beautiful work. Just copy that as close as you can.

The dead space in the transfers need to be filled for the best results. I have found a decent epoxy metal on a keyed surface will last many years. And as said even if it does come loose it stays in position until the cylinder is removed.
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Thu Jan 10, 2019 11:40 pm quote
Jack221 wrote:
Safis does some beautiful work. Just copy that as close as you can.
He does! Safis, what's your secret? Any specialised tools?
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Fri Jan 11, 2019 12:12 am quote
Agreed. Very lovely porting work by SaFiS.

Regardless of whether you use chemical metal or proper alu filler weld, you will undoubtably fill slightly beyond the gasket sealing face. Once you have ground out the port shapes, how do you get the gasket face back to where it needs to be? Is it best to have it machined perfectly flat by a shop?
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Fri Jan 11, 2019 12:16 am quote
chandlerman wrote:
I've tried the dimpling like those guys did before. It was harder than one would think.
D-type Jaguar engines running at Le Mans had rifled inlet ports. Probably just as easy !!
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Fri Jan 11, 2019 12:25 am quote
swa45 wrote:
Agreed. Very lovely porting work by SaFiS.

Regardless of whether you use chemical metal or proper alu filler weld, you will undoubtably fill slightly beyond the gasket sealing face. Once you have ground out the port shapes, how do you get the gasket face back to where it needs to be? Is it best to have it machined perfectly flat by a shop?
When I do the filling I bolt a metal plate and an oiled gasket over the gap and back fill up to it. With a stock gasket on first it just peels off from the epoxy after it has cured. Surface needs no work before final fitting the cylinder.
Molto Verboso
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Fri Jan 11, 2019 1:06 pm quote
You guys are making me blush

@Ginch: No secrets. Steady hands, everything I've learnt from my father over the years and our trusty 30+ years old Kawasaki air grinder along with various carbide bur bits. One thing to know when grinding aluminum. Dip the bit in used engine oil. It helps with cooling and prevents it from getting "stuffed"...

@swa45: For the gasket face I used a stock cylinder, after grinding the locating pin, along with Chemico grinding paste. I get the cases mounted vertically and with just the weight of the cylinder I just rotate it left to right on the gasket surface until I get an even face. First with the coarse paste and then with the fine paste...

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Veni, Vidi, Posti
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Fri Jan 11, 2019 5:12 pm quote
Interesting idea using oil on the bit. Will give it a try very soon!
Molto Verboso
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Sat Jan 12, 2019 3:24 am quote
SaFiS wrote:
Dip the bit in used engine oil. It helps with cooling and prevents it from getting "stuffed"...
I have used WD-40 to lubricate my bits in the past, but will give engine oil a shot this weekend and see how it compares.
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