How to cheat and get a barn find.
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7574
Location: Victoria, Australia
Tue Feb 11, 2020 5:37 pm quote
What colour are they when they light up? I read somewhere - and found that it's true - if you're behind a red lens the red coloured led is much better. A white led behind the red lens is not quite right.

Is this scooter already registered? Or do you still have to go through all of that... warrant of fitness I think you call it there? Are the modifications likely to cause any issues there?
Molto Verboso
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 1232
Location: california
Tue Feb 11, 2020 6:34 pm quote
Posted this on another thread just 24 hours ago - so may be a repeat for some.
Acorn light on VBB is low volume - so finding an LED to fit is a challenge.
Additionally - Ginch is right. I found that a bulb that actually put out any lumens just washed out the red - literally looked white.

Solved with some low profile LED's in red - one of my favorite upgrades so posting again here.
They are knock your socks off bright RED when they illuminate.
Feel much safer at night riding with these.
Cheap and cheery solution from amazon.

Also 2 for $10
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TBR62T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


These festoon ones also from Amazon are great for the running light also:
2 for $10
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZYJ4OD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

img_0810_24821.jpg
Excuse to post a picture of my scoot on Pheas's thread. Priceless. :-)

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bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 720
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Wed Feb 12, 2020 1:26 am quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Posted this on another thread just 24 hours ago - so may be a repeat for some.
Acorn light on VBB is low volume - so finding an LED to fit is a challenge.
Additionally - Ginch is right. I found that a bulb that actually put out any lumens just washed out the red - literally looked white.

Solved with some low profile LED's in red - one of my favorite upgrades so posting again here.
They are knock your socks off bright RED when they illuminate.
Feel much safer at night riding with these.
Cheap and cheery solution from amazon.

Also 2 for $10
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TBR62T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


These festoon ones also from Amazon are great for the running light also:
2 for $10
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZYJ4OD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'l excuse you this time... ;P That thing lights up like xmas! Nice. As if you didn't stick out before...

I was only looking at mine in the daylight - looked ok. 150 lumens on the brake light. 120 on the running. I'll check out the red ones.

Some weird battery discharge happened today. Maybe my relay idea isn't quite right... but should be 150mA drain only.

Still so many details to go...
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bare metal cafe racer
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Posts: 720
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Wed Feb 12, 2020 1:31 am quote
Ginch wrote:
What colour are they when they light up? I read somewhere - and found that it's true - if you're behind a red lens the red coloured led is much better. A white led behind the red lens is not quite right.

Is this scooter already registered? Or do you still have to go through all of that... warrant of fitness I think you call it there? Are the modifications likely to cause any issues there?
The scooter is "in the system" - the frame number and licence plate (a black one...) So have to get it vinned, ask politely to use the black plate (seriously - that's the process), and then get it "low volume certified" - all the major modifications need signing-off: 150 => 200cc motor, hydraulic brakes, maybe the 11" wheels, maybe the fork... They stick a stamped aluminum badge listing the modifications on the frame somewhere. I've heard the bloke who does this is quite particular about the front and rear wheels tracking on the same line (despite it not really being important) - so will probably have to see how mine line up. Otherwise space the rear over with some washers I guess.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7574
Location: Victoria, Australia
Wed Feb 12, 2020 1:35 am quote
Yes... always much harder to do this from scratch, if it's registered already then it's easy.
Molto Verboso
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 1232
Location: california
Wed Feb 12, 2020 8:03 am quote
Quote:
The scooter is "in the system" - the frame number and licence plate (a black one...) So have to get it vinned, ask politely to use the black plate (seriously - that's the process), and then get it "low volume certified" - all the major modifications need signing-off: 150 => 200cc motor, hydraulic brakes, maybe the 11" wheels, maybe the fork... They stick a stamped aluminum badge listing the modifications on the frame somewhere. I've heard the bloke who does this is quite particular about the front and rear wheels tracking on the same line (despite it not really being important) - so will probably have to see how mine line up. Otherwise space the rear over with some washers I guess.
Hope that guy doesn't read this forum!
On the other hand - the impressive work has been documented so maybe it would help!

Seems like you guys as well as UK & Germany have a much tougher time registering when customizing.
Here in Cali - You don't even need a motorcycle drivers license when you have a sidecar - they consider it a car. Talk about broad strokes...

Keep on plugging Pheas'. Last 10% is the toughest in any marathon.
Lookin good.
Molto Verboso
Gina, 1965 Vespa 180SS, Bella,1968 Vespa 150 Super, (Both NZ new Airco assembled), Francesca, 2006 Vespa LX150, Sofia, 2007 Vespa GT200
Joined: 21 Jan 2015
Posts: 1327
Location: Hamilton, NZ
Fri Feb 14, 2020 12:23 am quote
Great outcome PP, and despite your heritage I don't see any No. 8 wire in there.
Molto Verboso
One or two fun scoots....nothing too precious
Joined: 17 Jul 2013
Posts: 1406
Location: UK (South East)
Fri Feb 14, 2020 3:25 am quote
PP, could you remind my about your final setup with the SIP alloys? I think you are using 3.00 x 11 at the rear and 2.50 x 11 at the front? How do they line up? I recall our discussion about SIP recommending the 3.00 x 11 and 2.50 x 10 combination to get the best line (this what I use). Does the 2.50 x 11 at the front make things any different for you?
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Posts: 720
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Fri Feb 14, 2020 3:52 pm quote
swa45 wrote:
PP, could you remind my about your final setup with the SIP alloys? I think you are using 3.00 x 11 at the rear and 2.50 x 11 at the front? How do they line up? I recall our discussion about SIP recommending the 3.00 x 11 and 2.50 x 10 combination to get the best line (this what I use). Does the 2.50 x 11 at the front make things any different for you?
Yeah the 11Ē wheels - 2.5 on the front with 110/70 and 3.0 rear with 130/70.

In theory... the wide tyre on the back should offset the centre 4mm left. In theory (according to the SIP info) the 2.50x11 should also offset the front 4mm left. But... the PK fork with a disc hub will also cause a few mm leftward offset. Iím guessing I have 6mm left at the front and 4mm at the rear. Using a 2.10x10 on the front should keep it centered - so I would have only 2mm from the fork. Either way, I would end up 2mm out of alignment front and back... but canít space the rear rightward easily (would need mounts cut again and clutch cover and engine pivot ground down) whereas I could put some 2mm washers under the rear wheel to space it left easily. Plus... the 110/70 on the front is really wide, and so optically the offset doesnít look so apparent.

But nothing is particularly square/ aligned/ symmetric on a Vespa and mine especially (with some weird frame twist going on) - when the frame went on the jig it seems like the engine mounts and fork tube are aligned. But wonít know for sure until I laser the tyre tracking - will get on to that at some stage. And the. Wonít know what all this means until I get it riding. Guessing (hoping) none of these alignment issues will be an issue anywhere but on paper - especially the way I will likely ride (fairly sedate, novice and carefully).

But need brakes... next thing to sort on the list. Bleed the font and mount the pedal/ connect the rear. Hoping the rear cable inner is long enough - the BGM PX cable set I got had the P style rear cable attachment (which I have cut off) and looks like it will be pretty close if not too short now. Could probably shorten the outer tho.

Iíll throw this out there - any good tips/ tricks for mounting the pedal?
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bare metal cafe racer
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Fri Feb 14, 2020 4:03 pm quote
pigletpilot wrote:
Great outcome PP, and despite your heritage I don't see any No. 8 wire in there.
Haha... donít be fooled. Plenty of No. 8 methodology in there, just not the wire itself. Grinding, dremeling, cable ties, super glue, JB Weld, and my favourite... thread. Not twine, but either stainless bolts and nylocs or aluminum clamps. Allows for adjustments. And means I can strip everything off again. Which I am aware I will very likely need to do if/ when my frame coating fails.

Wonít be too disappointed if that were to happen. Realised that a dry build is very crude... there is a fair bit of stuff I would do differently (better/ spend more time getting right) if I had to do it again. Very much a learning experience.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2098
Location: Staten Island, NY
Fri Feb 14, 2020 4:11 pm quote
For those of us on Chrome:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SUKOHNGNPIQ&hl=en&fs=1&

Just finally watched this now as every other time I tried to, I was on my phone and couldn't retrieve the html code for the player.

This thing sounds awesome and will be amazing to see on the road. I am definitely envious and am sure many others are as well. Great job!
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2098
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sun Feb 16, 2020 11:30 am quote
Saw your flywheel holder post on tips and tricks and made me wonder if you ever got the kickstart gear installed onto the vape flywheel? If so, how'd you do it. I'm interested!
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bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 720
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Mon Feb 17, 2020 2:44 am quote
swiss1939 wrote:
Saw your flywheel holder post on tips and tricks and made me wonder if you ever got the kickstart gear installed onto the vape flywheel? If so, how'd you do it. I'm interested!
Nah... I did 3D model something that might have worked but was gonna cost me $500+ to get machined. Back to the drawing board. Might check out some other machinists and see if I can't wrangle a better price. That or 'lathe' something up myself.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7574
Location: Victoria, Australia
Mon Feb 17, 2020 11:40 pm quote
Don't suppose there's away to do it with a rubber wheel on a plain or knurled surface that might be easier to make?
Style Maven
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa PK50XL2 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special '66(?) Super125
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7735
Location: seattle/athens
Tue Feb 18, 2020 11:08 am quote
swiss1939 wrote:
Saw your flywheel holder post on tips and tricks and made me wonder if you ever got the kickstart gear installed onto the vape flywheel? If so, how'd you do it. I'm interested!

Oh.

You mean the ring gear for electric start, I was imagining $500+ to produce a machined version for better durability (hint: just use your hammer handle, it's hardwood).
Veni, Vidi, Posti
a not so normal vbb2 '64, a weirdo vbx '86, a not so normal pts100 '82 and a red lipstick '74 sprint
Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 5659
Location: Indo
Tue Feb 18, 2020 12:07 pm quote
Should i told you that i insert a screwdriver between the fins to hold the flywheel
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bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 720
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Tue Mar 17, 2020 2:03 am quote
Stuck on the bleeding the front brake. Have tried every method known. Lots. So decided to move on - maybe a rough running 2 stroke will shake the damn bubbles out. But probably need one brake working well...

Didn't have one of the pins, couldn't bring myself to use a nail... Decided to tap the post and made up a threaded pin... Think it's legit.

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Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2098
Location: Staten Island, NY
Tue Mar 17, 2020 7:43 am quote
bravo. No need for international orders that may more may not arrive when you've got ingenuity!
Molto Verboso
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 1232
Location: california
Tue Mar 17, 2020 8:03 am quote
Legit +.
Those pins have two modes
Unimaginably stuck & fallen out/lost.
Like it - and suspect a bit of riding will sort out the front.
Chance we might see a video soon?
What's left before a spin in the neighborhood?!
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7574
Location: Victoria, Australia
Tue Mar 17, 2020 5:36 pm quote
Pin 2.0

I call that a win!
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bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 720
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Wed Mar 18, 2020 11:18 pm quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Legit +.
Those pins have two modes
Unimaginably stuck & fallen out/lost.
Like it - and suspect a bit of riding will sort out the front.
Chance we might see a video soon?
What's left before a spin in the neighborhood?!
well... the throttle was sticking...

Smooth, but wasn't returning. Lot's of clamps that can be adjusted. But the problem seems to be with the original cable holder thingy. Getting the cable to exit at just the right angle to run around the pulley is proving to be a little bit tricky. Spent a whole day fiddling inside the headset and got nowhere. I had it whipping back before... And the throttle grip is loose.

But yeah... keep finding things to adjust and get right. Did put pins on both wheels tho - which was the last actual thing required to ride.

Tidy wiring. Cowls on. Fix front brake light switch. Glovebox on. Plate on. Check auto-lube. Drain premix and refill tank. Change spark plug.

Small list - but some of those items will take longer than they should.

2 weeks of self-isolation would help...
Veni, Vidi, Posti
a not so normal vbb2 '64, a weirdo vbx '86, a not so normal pts100 '82 and a red lipstick '74 sprint
Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 5659
Location: Indo
Fri Mar 20, 2020 11:55 am quote
it will be done in 2 week isolation i bet
bodgemaster
1963 GL, 1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 5252
Location: So Cal
Sat Mar 21, 2020 5:51 pm quote
Letís hope itís only two
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bare metal cafe racer
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Sat May 16, 2020 8:52 pm quote
Had some more time to wrench. 2T tank leaking so sorting that out. Couple of the seat/tank M7s were a bit dodgy. Easiest solution... make them all M8s.

Cowl on. Plate on. It's starting to look like it belongs on the road now.

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bare metal cafe racer
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Sat May 16, 2020 8:54 pm quote
More pics

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Veni, Vidi, Posti
a not so normal vbb2 '64, a weirdo vbx '86, a not so normal pts100 '82 and a red lipstick '74 sprint
Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 5659
Location: Indo
Sat May 16, 2020 9:15 pm quote
Lookibg good there Brother Pheas, look likr everything is ready gor this summer
Molto Verboso
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 1232
Location: california
Sat May 16, 2020 9:38 pm quote
Damn Pheas' - that thing is beautiful.
What's needed to be able to start riding?
Some kinda inspection still?
Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1705

Sun May 17, 2020 6:58 am quote
This is coming along so nicely, one challenge at a time. Must be almost there?
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bare metal cafe racer
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Mon May 18, 2020 12:14 pm quote
Yeah... getting close.

Still sorting the throttle tube - wasnít returning. Guess thereís a lot of bearings now for such a small spring in the carb to deal with. I think I have a solution tho...

Also - the motogadget grips are different diameters, the throttle side being for 25mm from memory. Building up the tube with shrink wrap didnít work... but still need to find some way to secure the grip really well.

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Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1705

Mon May 18, 2020 12:35 pm quote
Just going to throw this out there, probably not a good idea but may open up some thoughts, bondo or something like that.
Ossessionato
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 2467

Mon May 18, 2020 1:29 pm quote
pheasant plucker wrote:
Yeah... getting close.

Still sorting the throttle tube - wasnít returning. Guess thereís a lot of bearings now for such a small spring in the carb to deal with. I think I have a solution tho...

Also - the motogadget grips are different diameters, the throttle side being for 25mm from memory. Building up the tube with shrink wrap didnít work... but still need to find some way to secure the grip really well.
Depending upon what grips you use...

Industry standard moto tubes are 7/8" on the left, and the throttle tube is 1-1/8". When installing stick on grip heaters (such as Symetc brand), they come with dual wall heat shrink that is supposed to be installed on the left side of the handlebar. Then the thin heating element gets adhered to the shrink tube. It works very solid for any dirtbike style grips. I've found that the shrink tube adds about and 1/8" while the heating element adds another 1/16"+. If it can handle multiple years of dirtbike enduro and desert racing in all sorts of weather, then it should be more than adequate for any street use...that is if it fits with your grips.
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bare metal cafe racer
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Mon May 18, 2020 8:53 pm quote
Cheers Lynn and WDC.

Iíll admit to injecting some superglue under the grip to try and get it to bind (on the multiple layers of shrinkwrap) - adhered great to the grip itself! Spent a long time getting it back off again. Need to rough up the tube itself... way too smooth and polished.

I do recall seeing some grip shims made exactly for fitting 25mm on 22mm but cannot find them again. Iíve got a lot of rubber sheet (used lots for mounting stuff on the bike) and will see if that works... but failing that, the bondo idea does have a certain appeal... but would probably use some gasket making goop. Black, rubbery, and seems to adhere really well.

Mainly shared that pic to show the workings of the throttle tube without the grip on.

One other issue - the grip is actually what stops the tube falling into the headset. It doesnít actually want to without it, but can be pushed in. You can see where the cuff that would normally prevent it was removed. Because the grips are longer than original. Does mean the contact between grip and horn switch has to be smooth. If I could figure a small clamp or way to reattach a cuff then I would... but CBF welding anything. Maybe a job for some JBondo weld yet... might try source a Teflon washer also.
Ossessionato
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 2467

Ossessionato
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 2467

Mon May 18, 2020 10:03 pm quote
And that dual wall heat shrink tubing is sticky enough that you shouldnít have to roughen up the throttle tube at all. I currently have it stuck to the throttle tubes on 3 different PXís. They havenít budged in the past 5+ years. No super glue was needed to keep anything in place.
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bare metal cafe racer
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Tue May 19, 2020 12:37 am quote
If I could find that dual wall heat shrink Iíd use it for sure.
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bare metal cafe racer
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Thu May 21, 2020 5:25 am quote
Grip... sorted. Just used electrical tape to build it up. Hairspray to get the grip on. Too easy.

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bare metal cafe racer
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Thu May 21, 2020 5:26 am quote
Went no. 8 wire on it to sort the throttle return.

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bare metal cafe racer
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Thu May 21, 2020 5:27 am quote
Added a loop onto the pulley. Just a twist of wire.

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bare metal cafe racer
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Thu May 21, 2020 5:28 am quote
More wire to make another loop.

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bare metal cafe racer
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Thu May 21, 2020 5:29 am quote
Stuck some heavy duty double sided tape on the back...

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