How to cheat and get a barn find.
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7276
Location: Victoria, Australia
Tue Feb 11, 2020 5:37 pm quote
What colour are they when they light up? I read somewhere - and found that it's true - if you're behind a red lens the red coloured led is much better. A white led behind the red lens is not quite right.

Is this scooter already registered? Or do you still have to go through all of that... warrant of fitness I think you call it there? Are the modifications likely to cause any issues there?
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Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 871
Location: california
Tue Feb 11, 2020 6:34 pm quote
Posted this on another thread just 24 hours ago - so may be a repeat for some.
Acorn light on VBB is low volume - so finding an LED to fit is a challenge.
Additionally - Ginch is right. I found that a bulb that actually put out any lumens just washed out the red - literally looked white.

Solved with some low profile LED's in red - one of my favorite upgrades so posting again here.
They are knock your socks off bright RED when they illuminate.
Feel much safer at night riding with these.
Cheap and cheery solution from amazon.

Also 2 for $10
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TBR62T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


These festoon ones also from Amazon are great for the running light also:
2 for $10
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZYJ4OD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

img_0810_24821.jpg
Excuse to post a picture of my scoot on Pheas's thread. Priceless. :-)

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bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 654
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Wed Feb 12, 2020 1:26 am quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Posted this on another thread just 24 hours ago - so may be a repeat for some.
Acorn light on VBB is low volume - so finding an LED to fit is a challenge.
Additionally - Ginch is right. I found that a bulb that actually put out any lumens just washed out the red - literally looked white.

Solved with some low profile LED's in red - one of my favorite upgrades so posting again here.
They are knock your socks off bright RED when they illuminate.
Feel much safer at night riding with these.
Cheap and cheery solution from amazon.

Also 2 for $10
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TBR62T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


These festoon ones also from Amazon are great for the running light also:
2 for $10
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZYJ4OD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'l excuse you this time... ;P That thing lights up like xmas! Nice. As if you didn't stick out before...

I was only looking at mine in the daylight - looked ok. 150 lumens on the brake light. 120 on the running. I'll check out the red ones.

Some weird battery discharge happened today. Maybe my relay idea isn't quite right... but should be 150mA drain only.

Still so many details to go...
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bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 654
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Wed Feb 12, 2020 1:31 am quote
Ginch wrote:
What colour are they when they light up? I read somewhere - and found that it's true - if you're behind a red lens the red coloured led is much better. A white led behind the red lens is not quite right.

Is this scooter already registered? Or do you still have to go through all of that... warrant of fitness I think you call it there? Are the modifications likely to cause any issues there?
The scooter is "in the system" - the frame number and licence plate (a black one...) So have to get it vinned, ask politely to use the black plate (seriously - that's the process), and then get it "low volume certified" - all the major modifications need signing-off: 150 => 200cc motor, hydraulic brakes, maybe the 11" wheels, maybe the fork... They stick a stamped aluminum badge listing the modifications on the frame somewhere. I've heard the bloke who does this is quite particular about the front and rear wheels tracking on the same line (despite it not really being important) - so will probably have to see how mine line up. Otherwise space the rear over with some washers I guess.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7276
Location: Victoria, Australia
Wed Feb 12, 2020 1:35 am quote
Yes... always much harder to do this from scratch, if it's registered already then it's easy.
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Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 871
Location: california
Wed Feb 12, 2020 8:03 am quote
Quote:
The scooter is "in the system" - the frame number and licence plate (a black one...) So have to get it vinned, ask politely to use the black plate (seriously - that's the process), and then get it "low volume certified" - all the major modifications need signing-off: 150 => 200cc motor, hydraulic brakes, maybe the 11" wheels, maybe the fork... They stick a stamped aluminum badge listing the modifications on the frame somewhere. I've heard the bloke who does this is quite particular about the front and rear wheels tracking on the same line (despite it not really being important) - so will probably have to see how mine line up. Otherwise space the rear over with some washers I guess.
Hope that guy doesn't read this forum!
On the other hand - the impressive work has been documented so maybe it would help!

Seems like you guys as well as UK & Germany have a much tougher time registering when customizing.
Here in Cali - You don't even need a motorcycle drivers license when you have a sidecar - they consider it a car. Talk about broad strokes...

Keep on plugging Pheas'. Last 10% is the toughest in any marathon.
Lookin good.
Molto Verboso
Gina, 1965 Vespa 180SS, Bella,1968 Vespa 150 Super, (Both NZ new Airco assembled), Francesca, 2006 Vespa LX150, Sofia, 2007 Vespa GT200
Joined: 21 Jan 2015
Posts: 1292
Location: Hamilton, NZ
Fri Feb 14, 2020 12:23 am quote
Great outcome PP, and despite your heritage I don't see any No. 8 wire in there.
Molto Verboso
One or two fun scoots....nothing too precious
Joined: 17 Jul 2013
Posts: 1247
Location: UK (South East)
Fri Feb 14, 2020 3:25 am quote
PP, could you remind my about your final setup with the SIP alloys? I think you are using 3.00 x 11 at the rear and 2.50 x 11 at the front? How do they line up? I recall our discussion about SIP recommending the 3.00 x 11 and 2.50 x 10 combination to get the best line (this what I use). Does the 2.50 x 11 at the front make things any different for you?
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bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 654
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Fri Feb 14, 2020 3:52 pm quote
swa45 wrote:
PP, could you remind my about your final setup with the SIP alloys? I think you are using 3.00 x 11 at the rear and 2.50 x 11 at the front? How do they line up? I recall our discussion about SIP recommending the 3.00 x 11 and 2.50 x 10 combination to get the best line (this what I use). Does the 2.50 x 11 at the front make things any different for you?
Yeah the 11Ē wheels - 2.5 on the front with 110/70 and 3.0 rear with 130/70.

In theory... the wide tyre on the back should offset the centre 4mm left. In theory (according to the SIP info) the 2.50x11 should also offset the front 4mm left. But... the PK fork with a disc hub will also cause a few mm leftward offset. Iím guessing I have 6mm left at the front and 4mm at the rear. Using a 2.10x10 on the front should keep it centered - so I would have only 2mm from the fork. Either way, I would end up 2mm out of alignment front and back... but canít space the rear rightward easily (would need mounts cut again and clutch cover and engine pivot ground down) whereas I could put some 2mm washers under the rear wheel to space it left easily. Plus... the 110/70 on the front is really wide, and so optically the offset doesnít look so apparent.

But nothing is particularly square/ aligned/ symmetric on a Vespa and mine especially (with some weird frame twist going on) - when the frame went on the jig it seems like the engine mounts and fork tube are aligned. But wonít know for sure until I laser the tyre tracking - will get on to that at some stage. And the. Wonít know what all this means until I get it riding. Guessing (hoping) none of these alignment issues will be an issue anywhere but on paper - especially the way I will likely ride (fairly sedate, novice and carefully).

But need brakes... next thing to sort on the list. Bleed the font and mount the pedal/ connect the rear. Hoping the rear cable inner is long enough - the BGM PX cable set I got had the P style rear cable attachment (which I have cut off) and looks like it will be pretty close if not too short now. Could probably shorten the outer tho.

Iíll throw this out there - any good tips/ tricks for mounting the pedal?
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bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 654
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Fri Feb 14, 2020 4:03 pm quote
pigletpilot wrote:
Great outcome PP, and despite your heritage I don't see any No. 8 wire in there.
Haha... donít be fooled. Plenty of No. 8 methodology in there, just not the wire itself. Grinding, dremeling, cable ties, super glue, JB Weld, and my favourite... thread. Not twine, but either stainless bolts and nylocs or aluminum clamps. Allows for adjustments. And means I can strip everything off again. Which I am aware I will very likely need to do if/ when my frame coating fails.

Wonít be too disappointed if that were to happen. Realised that a dry build is very crude... there is a fair bit of stuff I would do differently (better/ spend more time getting right) if I had to do it again. Very much a learning experience.
Molto Verboso
1980 P125X, 1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 1564
Location: Staten Island, NY
Fri Feb 14, 2020 4:11 pm quote
For those of us on Chrome:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SUKOHNGNPIQ&hl=en&fs=1&

Just finally watched this now as every other time I tried to, I was on my phone and couldn't retrieve the html code for the player.

This thing sounds awesome and will be amazing to see on the road. I am definitely envious and am sure many others are as well. Great job!
Molto Verboso
1980 P125X, 1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 1564
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sun Feb 16, 2020 11:30 am quote
Saw your flywheel holder post on tips and tricks and made me wonder if you ever got the kickstart gear installed onto the vape flywheel? If so, how'd you do it. I'm interested!
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bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 654
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Mon Feb 17, 2020 2:44 am quote
swiss1939 wrote:
Saw your flywheel holder post on tips and tricks and made me wonder if you ever got the kickstart gear installed onto the vape flywheel? If so, how'd you do it. I'm interested!
Nah... I did 3D model something that might have worked but was gonna cost me $500+ to get machined. Back to the drawing board. Might check out some other machinists and see if I can't wrangle a better price. That or 'lathe' something up myself.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7276
Location: Victoria, Australia
Mon Feb 17, 2020 11:40 pm quote
Don't suppose there's away to do it with a rubber wheel on a plain or knurled surface that might be easier to make?
Style Maven
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special '66(?) Super125 + projects
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7606
Location: seattle/athens
Tue Feb 18, 2020 11:08 am quote
swiss1939 wrote:
Saw your flywheel holder post on tips and tricks and made me wonder if you ever got the kickstart gear installed onto the vape flywheel? If so, how'd you do it. I'm interested!

Oh.

You mean the ring gear for electric start, I was imagining $500+ to produce a machined version for better durability (hint: just use your hammer handle, it's hardwood).
Veni, Vidi, Posti
a not so normal vbb2 '64, a weirdo vbx '86 and a not so normal pts100 '82
Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 5551
Location: Indo
Tue Feb 18, 2020 12:07 pm quote
Should i told you that i insert a screwdriver between the fins to hold the flywheel
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