How to cheat and get a barn find.
Post Reply    Forum -> Not-So-Modern Previous123...91011Next
Author Message
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 461
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Sun Mar 24, 2019 3:27 am quote
But the shock reservoir touches the frame. Question... what's the best way to deal with this. Modify the frame? Can I move the reservoir? The 'instruction' book is all in German, but pretty sure it doesn't cover dealing with sticking one of these in a wide tyre vbb.

What do these screws do though? Is there anyway to adjust the position of the reservoir? Cheers for any advice.

IMG_4408 copy.jpg

Molto Verboso
One or two fun scoots....nothing too precious
Joined: 17 Jul 2013
Posts: 1182
Location: UK (South East)
Sun Mar 24, 2019 7:10 am quote
Does the rear shock require a spacer? If yes, there are different lengths and you may be able to get clearance with a longer one.
Ossessionato
1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 4871
Location: So Cal
Sun Mar 24, 2019 7:30 am quote
Lots of spacer options... worst case, different shock.

How far does it need to move and which direction?
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 461
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Sun Mar 24, 2019 10:03 am quote
I don't think this is a shock length issue. Motor seems to be sitting at a good angle. Interestingly (to me) the shock I pulled from the px200 is 400mm, whereas most of the performance rear shocks (px200) are 330mm? Which seems closer in length to the original vbb rear shock. I used the spacer that was on my vbb (~ 40mm I think but didn't measure it).

I haven't bothered measuring because the variable of where the shock mount on the p200 c.f. original 150 motor, and how that behaves in the 150 frame is an unknown (to me) and figured fix in the mix (spacers etc).

But because of the wide tyre conversion the reservoir is 'too right' - not in a correct way, more in a trump way. So something needs changing. I've seen images where the frame looks cut-away for this, others with angled reservoirs (not sure if that is shock specific) and sure others where the frame has likely been bent to the right to accomodate this.

I was absolutely expecting this sort of stuff to happen with the conversion - which is the purpose of the dry build. Fix it before paint. Gotta see if the cowl fits too...

57511316586__7C64BB36-8CC7-4D49-922C-8BCB55997013.jpg

IMG_4408 copy 2.jpg

Addicted
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 635
Location: california
Sun Mar 24, 2019 12:51 pm quote
pheasant plucker - since impeachment would like just upset the motor - perhaps you can figure out how to work with it.

Just curious - did you put in new engine mounts?

Any chance the motor is straight but offset a few mm due to depth of mounts? Could slight offset adjustment be managed with same mounts?
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 461
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Sun Mar 24, 2019 5:42 pm quote
charlieman22 wrote:
pheasant plucker - since impeachment would like just upset the motor - perhaps you can figure out how to work with it.

Just curious - did you put in new engine mounts?

Any chance the motor is straight but offset a few mm due to depth of mounts? Could slight offset adjustment be managed with same mounts?
Yeah this is a wide tyre conversion with JB mounts. Shifted 10mm right. Really happy with alignment (so far... was midnight and rushing). See the daily bollox re: mount cut.

Just trying to work out if:
A) Iím missing something easy with the shock that can be changed, I.e. what do those screws do - same prob as you with limited instructions.
B) Bash the frame to make space
C) Cut the frame to make space
D) Something else I havenít thought of
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 461
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Sun Mar 24, 2019 5:47 pm quote
And I have considered moving the shock mount in the frame as there is (surprisingly) room between shock and wheel/tyre but that would be difficult and cause more angle on the shock which seems counterproductive for good performance.
Addicted
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 635
Location: california
Sun Mar 24, 2019 6:47 pm quote
Thought about this today as I was doing an epic grind and refit repeatedly to my PK fork - which I will be able to share some insights on as we seem to be tackling from different ends - hey some guys are tail first and some front end. It's normal.

When ever I get in a situation like this - I am always loath to bang or cut something that is orig like body - hard to replace - unless hidden - like your shock mount.

Pondered this one - have a suggestion - though perhaps someone that knows wtf they are doing will tell you how to spin that reservoir - agree that's best plan.

1. Shoot a note to Scooter Center - Oliver. Show him the pics - he takes a few days but perhaps since he sold it he will have the easy fix. (BTW - reservoir would have to stay with shock as there is a fluid path that must be respected - so maybe shock body and reservoir can turn.)

2. Failing someone suggesting an easy fix - I would tackle as follows:
- Press out engine bearing at shock. Cut (yes - cut) a few MM of width out of case mount - and then re press in rubber - but offset towards tire. Fit - and see if you also need to move top shock mount in - yes, its body drilling - but is it hidden and weldable.

My $.02. Maybe someone with experience can give another solution.
Addicted
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 635
Location: california
Sun Mar 24, 2019 8:33 pm quote
Closer look - why not move this mounting point inwards - lowest cost/risk/work - assuming it is removable - at minimum it will have moderate loc-tite on it I'm sure.

Screen Shot 2019-03-24 at 9.28.03 PM.jpg

Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 461
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Sat Apr 06, 2019 4:15 am quote
Time to get this guard sorted... Feedback appreciated.

IMG_4536.jpg
Not very low if I standard mount. Could bring the front down but still a lot of wheel exposed.

IMG_4541.jpg
If I drop the whole thing back is sits much lower. Would have to re-shape the back but with the guard split I think that is possible.

IMG_4540.jpg

IMG_4550.jpg
They reckon 4mm offset left... (SIP Tubeless Widetyre rims)... Reckon I've got a lot more. Hmmm.

IMG_4552.jpg
At least the ride hight looks good.

Addicted
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 635
Location: california
Sat Apr 06, 2019 6:57 am quote
Pheas' - Looking really good.

IK it sounds counter intuitive - but what happens if you rotate it forward instead of backwards - so nose comes down and back of mud guard gets parallel with leg shield?

Also - will you take a measure between the fork leg and wider tire - how much clearance are you left with using the "4mm" offset. (wide tire jealousy...)
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 461
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Sat Apr 06, 2019 2:05 pm quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Pheas' - Looking really good.

IK it sounds counter intuitive - but what happens if you rotate it forward instead of backwards - so nose comes down and back of mud guard gets parallel with leg shield?

Also - will you take a measure between the fork leg and wider tire - how much clearance are you left with using the "4mm" offset. (wide tire jealousy...)
I tried that but there is less depth and the front pokes out further from the wheel. Perhaps if I open up the top/reshape there.

Measured the tyre-fork clearance: 10mm. Trying to think if there is something in the way I mounted the wheel - but the disc is lining up pretty well in the caliper right now. Although I'll be re-checking all of this. The SIP Tubeless v2 (non-wide tyre) is meant to be aligned so could try that also - the tyre would be a 3.50-10. So 90 wide vs the 100 I have on atm.

The PX forks definitely seem to reduce that gap between the guard and horncast. Can see that in the following comparison.

guard comparison.jpg

IMG_4558.jpg

Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 461
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Sat Apr 06, 2019 2:18 pm quote
Also note - the GS guard is 10mm deeper (the top comparison). And my guard is very flexible right now so just clamping it on is changing the profile a lot.

Still like the way that GS aligns. To me it looks 'the way it should be' - and guessing that is because it is.

Thinking that dropping the guard back offsets the angle too much and gives the bike that 'superlow' vibe - i.e. shopping trolley!

Thinking at this stage is work with the hole in the original position, but work the top of the guard to dive it a little and hopefully drop a bit.

Tempting to extend the horncast...
Addicted
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 635
Location: california
Sat Apr 06, 2019 9:10 pm quote
Pheas' - Thanks brother - appreciate the measure.

Your post on bearing size issue for top bearing was a life saver - happened to be at that point today - would have not thought to measure- why measure when the actual job is to pound a part in place? You saved me from beating the wrong top seat in - tks.

Like you - bearing set is wrong. Top bearing seat is about 1mm larger diameter in my set. Ball bearing ring is poor fit from new set to old on top. Bottom race on ours needs a collar - see pics below. New ball bearing ring fits old lower race - but its the wrong set and I will need to replace.
Quote:
I tried that but there is less depth and the front pokes out further from the wheel. Perhaps if I open up the top/reshape there.
I did the same thing - well, I didn't split the mud guard in half... - spent a bunch of time fitting mud guard using holes that seemed close to lining up and flare in top of mud guard on PK fork tube. But then I put the VBB mud guard back on my VBB fork and saw that the chrome center emblem had shifted almost 25MM forward when back on the VBB fork. That and the back angle of the mud guard to leg shield - stock has a nice parallel line - but when I put it on the PK in the "natural" position - the gap at the back was not parallel. Thats what drove me to try and refit it by slipping it forward on the fork.

I've included an attempt with a GS mudguard below. It got promise due to width for your application - but I struggled getting a nice match to leg guard angle and upturn at front of wheel.

Have an idea about adjusting mud guard to horn cast gap. Weld up the area below the lower bearing seat - and then put the fork on a lathe and take the seat level down. It will lower the bike a little - but even with my fork cut - I am still a little higher than stock - so there is room.

IMG_9472.jpg
GS mud guard. Found the roundness hard to match to the leg shield nicely - also - front 3" is cut "up hill" so even though it is deeper in the middle than VBB - I found it looked more chopperesque with my efforts. Notice the back edge of

IMG_9295.jpg
Stock VBB w/10"

IMG_9574.jpg
Unmodified VBB guard fit over disk and shock. Current status. Pleased with over all look. Hands in shreds from a week of assembly/disassembly/grinding of little bits and bobs.

IMG_9577.jpg
Gap is pretty parallel - after playing with it a lot this week - come to see this as one of the essential elements that adds to the "stock"/ finished feel

IMG_9556.jpg
Left is our version with collar. Right is what we bought...

Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 461
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Sun Apr 07, 2019 12:25 am quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Pheas' - Thanks brother - appreciate the measure.

Your post on bearing size issue for top bearing was a life saver - happened to be at that point today - would have not thought to measure- why measure when the actual job is to pound a part in place? You saved me from beating the wrong top seat in - tks.

Like you - bearing set is wrong. Top bearing seat is about 1mm larger diameter in my set. Ball bearing ring is poor fit from new set to old on top. Bottom race on ours needs a collar - see pics below. New ball bearing ring fits old lower race - but its the wrong set and I will need to replace.
Poor fit is likely wear and tear - and maybe the reason they supply an oversize for the top. Can always size it down. I had to down-size the bottom of the fork to get the lower bearing race onto that (with any chance of ever removing it).

JB's sell different sizes for worn bearing seats for the lower bearing race - so it must be a thing. https://www.jockeys-boxenstop.de/Steuerlagersatz-Vespa-VNA-VBB-GS-etc-Made-in-Bavaria-2-UeM

I like your thinking on the horncast gap. Probably wont bother myself. If I did it I would go Brother E on it with a grinder - can't imagine a lathe that would spin the fork! And then there's the fact the top might pop up so much that the thread needs extending etc - which is what you would have to do to a PX fork anyway. So might as well use a PX fork...

Had another play with the guard - more freestyle this time (i.e. hands not clamps). I think the original hole is the winner. Just a small amount of twist and the guard sits ok. Think that will be easy to sort when re-joining. Rejoining might not be easy though...

And you'll be happy to know that I cleaned up the workshop - all the sawdust (plenty of metal grindings too). Absolutely aware of what this would do to my nice new bearings etc... Plenty of drop sheets FTW. She's tight in there... Biggest issue is I can't step back to check the alignment of the guard.

Speaking of which - I can totally see why you want to move the GS guard forward. Really doesn't want to line up with the leg shield. The VBB guard looks good tho! But even it looks like it might want to dive just a touch more - but then camera angle can change everything. The original fit looks bang on (and is what I'm aiming for btw - using your photos a lot). But one of the key differences is that horncast gap. Bet it's 10mm wider - everything seems to be 10mm out for me! And in this game, 10mm is huge.

IMG_4588.jpg

IMG_4559.jpg

IMG_4560.jpg

IMG_4561.jpg

IMG_4562.jpg

Molto Verboso
One or two fun scoots....nothing too precious
Joined: 17 Jul 2013
Posts: 1182
Location: UK (South East)
Sun Apr 07, 2019 1:00 am quote
Your front wheel looks far too offset to the left. My understanding is that the offset version (2.50-11 or 3.00-11) is only used at the back, because the 1cm offset is countered by the cut swingarm. The standard 2.50-10 should be used at the front as you don't want the offset. On my VBC, the regular 2.50-10 does look a bit too far over to the left, but not as much as yours. On a PX it is not noticeable, due to the mudguard shape.
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 461
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Sun Apr 07, 2019 2:52 am quote
swa45 wrote:
Your front wheel looks far too offset to the left. My understanding is that the offset version (2.50-11 or 3.00-11) is only used at the back, because the 1cm offset is countered by the cut swingarm. The standard 2.50-10 should be used at the front as you don't want the offset. On my VBC, the regular 2.50-10 does look a bit too far over to the left, but not as much as yours. On a PX it is not noticeable, due to the mudguard shape.
That is a 2.50-10 w/ 100/90-10 on the front. Which is meant to be ok front or rear mounted.

The SIP 2.50-10 tubeless rim is meant to offset left 4mm. In theory my rear one (a SIP wide tyre 3.50-10) is offset 4mm left - after - the 1cm mount cut/shift right. So having 4mm offset on the front means both tyres are aligned.

"2.50-10: Perfect size for 100`80 and 100`90 tires. Compared to a 2.10 inch rim the SIP rim will cause a minimal and therefore insignificant misalignment towards left side. If the rim is used on front and rear wheel, there is no misalignment. Then there is only a minimal eccentricity."

https://sip-scootershop.com/en/products/rim+tubeless+sip+for+vespa+_81018000

The SIP Tubeless 2.0 (a 2.10-10) doesn't have the 4mm offset.

But I'm hearing you - that looks like more than 4mm. It's probably 10mm - everything has been out by 10mm. I'm planning on trying to figure out why it is so far left (i.e. make sure it is to do with the tyre and not the hub) before asking SIP. There's plenty of room between tyre and fork. Too much I'd say.
Molto Verboso
One or two fun scoots....nothing too precious
Joined: 17 Jul 2013
Posts: 1182
Location: UK (South East)
Sun Apr 07, 2019 5:04 am quote
Ah ok, I thought you had the 2.50-11 on the front, which would have the extra 1.0cm by all accounts. Like I said, I used a 2.50-10 with 100/90 Raceman on my VBC. The offset definitely looks worse on an oldie, where the mudguard tapers in at the front, but yours is more pronounced. The offset is kind of lost under a PX mudguard.
Addicted
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 635
Location: california
Sun Apr 07, 2019 6:26 am quote
Ahh - clean shop - type of space a man needs to sort out the rubic's cube that is the mud guard.

Friendly head's up. SIP PK fork's screw in turn stops barely hit the frame's stop.
Have a quick fit and measure on that one when you get your bearings - PIA to deal with it after putting everything back in the bike. Trust me...

IMG_9581.JPG
unsurprising

Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 461
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Sun Apr 07, 2019 11:40 am quote
swa45 wrote:
Ah ok, I thought you had the 2.50-11 on the front, which would have the extra 1.0cm by all accounts. Like I said, I used a 2.50-10 with 100/90 Raceman on my VBC. The offset definitely looks worse on an oldie, where the mudguard tapers in at the front, but yours is more pronounced. The offset is kind of lost under a PX mudguard.
Has the 2.50-11 ever actually been released? It's always been 'stock on order'. I thought the purpose of the 2.50-11 was deeper well = easier fit (plus 110/70-11 is a little wider, lower profile rubber, but same diameter). It too is meant to be only 4mm offset left. Severely limits tyre selection though.
charlieman22 wrote:
Ahh - clean shop - type of space a man needs to sort out the rubic's cube that is the mud guard.

Friendly head's up. SIP PK fork's screw in turn stops barely hit the frame's stop.
Have a quick fit and measure on that one when you get your bearings - PIA to deal with it after putting everything back in the bike. Trust me...
Mine are a country mile from working. Deciding on whether to move the frame part in or make bigger stops. The stops are high enough, it's just the frame part is too wide.

I do have functional bearings installed - the reconditioned ones from my VBB with the SIP kit new parts (even greased them). The fork has no play and turns nicely. Just doesn't stop turning...

IMG_4554.jpg

Addicted
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 635
Location: california
Sun Apr 07, 2019 12:17 pm quote
Quote:
Mine are a country mile from working. Deciding on whether to move the frame part in or make bigger stops.
Facing the scoot - my right one caught by 1mm. Right one swivels right underneath the stop without even bothering to scrape.

Making stops bigger has a limit - they rotate back in to the frame - so you gotta be extra careful or you will gnarl the entry of the leg shield - don't ask how I know that.

I would get out the torch. It's a new week - and hell - why not. Heat and beat the stop back in towards the frame a little. The left hand one is gonna be tough to reach from front - but you can get a wrench/ grip on it from below.

Also - take a look at the underwhelming amount of weld they did at the factory on the structure that holds your bearings.

IMG_9560.jpg
My plan is to heat (blue) then bend blue. Add weld - red

Hooked
Jet 200, P200E (x2), T5
Joined: 27 Jan 2013
Posts: 330
Location: Paris, France & L.A., Cal, USA
Sun Apr 07, 2019 12:32 pm quote
I'm liking those radial conversions for classic Grimeca NT brake setups; didn't know Pinasco made those.

About the wide tire conversion: have you ridden on one first? I had one of those in the '90s, and it made the ride feel extremely clumsy; I also had a record number of flats during that period. Having to cut off part of the swingarm was an added negative that made me wish I hadn't sacrificed a perfectly sound crankcase for looks.
Addicted
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 635
Location: california
Sun Apr 07, 2019 12:48 pm quote
Quote:
The VBB guard looks good tho! But even it looks like it might want to dive just a touch more
Agreed - a little more left in it - sweetened the fit a little this morning over coffee. Damn - it is so nice to be able to adjust now with ease vs the labor of getting the big fit done. Mud guard is super firm on fork - allows for close adjustment of leg guard gap.

Couple washers swapped and I was able to close the gap to about 5mm between fender and body - rotating nose down - improving the parallel lines of mud guard to leg shield.

IMG_9602.jpg
Gap is about 5mm leg shield to back of fender

IMG_9601.jpg
Shot from seat height

Addicted
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 635
Location: california
Sun Apr 07, 2019 1:30 pm quote
Hey - just to make sure u r seeing what I am.

Purple line shows the stop the right fork stop (when facing front of bike) should hit when fork is spun clockwise from above.

IMG_9606.PNG

Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 461
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Sun Apr 07, 2019 9:48 pm quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Hey - just to make sure u r seeing what I am.

Purple line shows the stop the right fork stop (when facing front of bike) should hit when fork is spun clockwise from above.
Yeah - the stopper (frame part) is at a diameter that means the stops on the fork sail right underneath.

Whenever I'm faced with a problem like this I stop and think what I could fix by clamping/screws over grinding/hitting/welding. Easier to adjust/change/remove. Thanks on the tip re: the fork stops hitting the leg shield - won't mess with those. But planning to add material to the existing stopper. Might have some thick pipe/aluminum that I can add to the inside and screw on.
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 461
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Sun Apr 07, 2019 10:30 pm quote
Frank N. Stein wrote:
I'm liking those radial conversions for classic Grimeca NT brake setups; didn't know Pinasco made those.
I personally like the Pinasco for the angle it places the brake - 90deg to the shock, and sort of follows the line of the swing arm. The AF Parts places the brake at 9 O'clock (so is relative to the ground) and tucks up behind the shock a little. Just a different look, don't think either is better, and absolutely personal choice. Except AF Parts have more options - can get a lowered version (brings the shock 13mm lower, must be particular shocks, no speedo mount) right up to the Tourer version that charlieman22 has which includes a mounting option for both speed sensor or speedo drive. The Pinasco only has a mount for the speedo drive.
Frank N. Stein wrote:
About the wide tire conversion: have you ridden on one first? I had one of those in the '90s, and it made the ride feel extremely clumsy; I also had a record number of flats during that period. Having to cut off part of the swingarm was an added negative that made me wish I hadn't sacrificed a perfectly sound crankcase for looks.
I haven't even ridden a large frame...

I'm riding a p.o.s. ET2 - that to its credit gets me to where I need to go, is awesome for slipping through traffic, and teaching me a lot about riding.

I don't know anyone with a large frame let alone a wide tyre conversion. I just made the decision as part of restoring my VBB to customise it. The easiest/cheapest way for me involved putting a P200 in (with the added bonus of then having a P200 over a 150). This then leads to 10" conversion... Then discs... etc. Just the P200 would mean I need the modification inspected/signed off to get the bike registered. Figured why not get all my (desired) modifications done and all inspected/signed off.

I am building the bike I want. I know that this is not the recommended 'way', that this is not going to be the bike that many others would want, that the time and money I put into this bike are not a value undertaking (could never sell it for what it will be worth to me). Honestly - don't care. Not the point (for me). And people telling me 'it can't be done' or 'shouldn't be done' just motivates me more. With the full realisation that they may be right! But I like to figure this stuff. With helpful advice along the way of course!

Honestly - I'm enjoying the process so much. This is therapy. From researching, to planning and then execution. Can be frustrating, but that's fun too. More problems to solve... I'm probably going to have some sort of breakdown when I finish this bike and have nothing left to tinker on! So I'm ok with slow progress - as long as it's progress.

Cutting the swing arm was epic good times.

There's plenty more to come.
Addicted
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 635
Location: california
Mon Apr 08, 2019 6:53 am quote
Wait, you cut the swing arm?
Where are the pictures?
How will I know what to do when I decide I NEED fat tires and a p200 motor?
Just plane bad manners if you ask me.

BTW - good thought on simply building up thickness of steering stop.

The opposite is also possible - the aluminum stops on your fork are removable without damage - generous medium thread lock was used. A little heat before removal can ease - should you decide to build them up in some way.

I took mine off so I could get mudguard on and off quickly - but of course I hadn't considered the guard was a two piece...

Hey - Everyone has their own style.
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 461
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Mon Apr 08, 2019 12:57 pm quote
It was on the daily bollox (page 50)...

Tips
- I Used an old record crate for an engine stand - drops in and holds it without pressing on anything that might bend
- Placing the engine upside down made access easier - could use the hacksaw for the whole cut (I've seen that people have to finish with just the blade for clearance from the top)
- Drill out the old rubbers (just destroy them). A few good holes and they will loosen and make removal easy.
- Make sure you remove the little spacer washers under the existing mounts (seen on another post that's easy to overlook)
- Don't forget the 1cm engine mount spacer - need to press through that
- Press the mounts in one-by-one (spacer side first)

If you forget the engine mount spacer then it can be put over the top, but this is tricky and and perfect alignment will be difficult. If you press a mount in too far then it is difficult to press it back out - you can't move the mounts by the centre (as any pressure on this will be absorbed by the rubber, and likely eventually tear that before moving the mount). If you have put both mounts in then you have to use a 'punch' to hit the outside rim of one mount to remove it first (the cut side mount has closer access, better angle, and luckily for me was a 'looser' fit). Once that one is out a piece of pipe/washers etc can be placed into the swing arm to pressure the outside rim from the inside, and press that mount back out.

So yeah - I made this job harder than it needed to be.

IMG_4380.jpg

IMG_4383.jpg

IMG_4384.jpg

IMG_4388.jpg
Don't do this - forget the spacer and try to press both in at once

IMG_4395.jpg



Last edited by pheasant plucker on Mon Apr 08, 2019 1:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 461
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Mon Apr 08, 2019 1:01 pm quote
Last two shots...

In theory the wheel should be 4mm offset left. Seems hard to tell.

IMG_4396.jpg
That little extra lip doesn't matter - unless you press both at once as it will allow the other side to press too deep

IMG_4402.jpg

Addicted
GL, PK, PE200
Joined: 24 Apr 2012
Posts: 669
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
Mon Apr 08, 2019 1:49 pm quote
I can't tell either from the pic on the 1st page, but looks great though.
Addicted
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 635
Location: california
Mon Apr 08, 2019 2:56 pm quote
Dead nuts center. Nice job.
Did this solve the shock/body interference issue you had?
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 461
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Mon Apr 08, 2019 5:02 pm quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Dead nuts center. Nice job.
Did this solve the shock/body interference issue you had?
If you look carefully I may have taken that photo on a very slight angle

Haven't touched the rear since installing - got straight onto fork. Gotta catch you up! Jks - all I needed was to gauge the ride hight and fit the cowl (dry build stage still). Cowl seems to fit ok (haven't put the rubbers on but will). Will beat the frame out to accomodate the reservoir - so mark it all off and do that when the frame is free of the pesky engine and wheel getting in the way.
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 461
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Mon Apr 08, 2019 5:04 pm quote
rowdyc wrote:
I can't tell either from the pic on the 1st page, but looks great though.
Same pic... just added it to catch charlieman22 up and put the cutting of the engine mount in context.
Addicted
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 635
Location: california
Mon Apr 08, 2019 9:14 pm quote
Quote:
Will beat the frame out to accomodate the reservoir - so mark it all off and do that when the frame is free of the pesky engine and wheel getting in the way.
Phew - was concerned you might split the frame in half to check for shock fit.
Your plan sounds better.
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 461
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Mon Apr 08, 2019 10:04 pm quote
Just the guard...

Hammer and tongs.

Just started... a long way to go.... but you get the idea.

IMG_4606.jpg

Veni, Vidi, Posti
a not so normal vbb2 '64, a weirdo vbx '86 and a not so normal pts100 '82
Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 5482
Location: Indo
Tue Apr 09, 2019 3:31 am quote
Wide tyre look great.. like i said i wish i cut the swing arm, previously i am using a 12 rims with a 140 wide.. yes it not look good as it sort of lookin more left but thw key is the alligment with the front tyre.. once they inline it wont be a trouble

Now i am using 10" rims with 120 wide.. still saving to buy the 12" 140 tyre.. once i have it the rear tyre will be my front rear

Good luck with the project anf cheer Brother P


Look goods in 12 140


Look wrong in 10 350


Look better in 120 in 10.. wish had a 130
Addicted
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 635
Location: california
Tue Apr 09, 2019 6:43 am quote
Quote:
Hammer and tongs.
Pheas' - up until now, most readers thought tongs referred to some barbecue tool u planned to use to prop up the mud guard while u hammered it.

Work is impressive. As clean as S&S. Wow.

Any pics of the process? (Please, no shots of ur BBQ at this point).
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 461
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Tue Apr 09, 2019 10:16 am quote
Full open disclosure. I have no experience panel beating. But I did watch a couple of Youtube videos! Looked fun (and it is). But I'm making stuff up as I go.

Figured I needed to pre-stretch the areas to be shaped - otherwise the surrounding metal would just get 'sucked' into the curves (shortening the length of the guard). Made a 'thingy' from pipe and clamps. Idea being it creates a small isolated section to work. Also thinking that by hitting into the shape of pipe there would be a tendency to part the sides - but for that to work I think there would need to be pressure against the bottom of the pipe (making it want to open up). Still... seems to work. Using a dowel bed leg (both end-on and side on) I just slowly worked from low to high, hitting multiple angles. Often 45 deg driving it up lengthwise.

Aware the risk is making something too thin and tearing the metal. Haven't used heating (so no real need for tongs) - not sure if heating would help.

Have made a curved dolly out of thick pipe and am starting to work with that now (no pics - kids got feral).

And yeah - stuck on how to fit over the shock 'tower'. I don't think shaping to get over it is going to be the problem - it is how to make it look ok and tie the shape back into the guard. Will start by making the problem as small as possible and see how much I can lower said tower.

IMG_4597.jpg

IMG_4598.jpg

IMG_4599.jpg

IMG_4600.jpg

IMG_4605.jpg

Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 461
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Tue Apr 09, 2019 10:25 am quote
koenig blues wrote:
Look better in 120 in 10.. wish had a 130
That 120 looks great! 130-10's are hard to find. Not many options. Mines a 130/70-11 - even less of those around! Limited to ~5 types of tyre as far as I can tell.
Addicted
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 635
Location: california
Tue Apr 09, 2019 12:50 pm quote
Q: Mom, what's dad doing in the shed?

R: Oh, don't worry honey. He's just beating his Vespa with a bed post. Makes him happy.



Looks promising!
Impressive first effort.
Cross Egypt Challenge - A 2400km ride throughout Egypt   Vespa Wasp Pin Badges   Scooter Parts Company
Post Reply    Forum -> Not-So-Modern Previous123...91011Next
[ Time: 0.2129s ][ Queries: 25 (0.0515s) ][ Debug on ]