How to cheat and get a barn find.
Post Reply    Forum -> Not-So-Modern Previous1234...91011Next
Author Message
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 474
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Mon Apr 15, 2019 6:57 pm quote
With the need for distraction... threw the swords on the forge and went hammer and tongs. But now time for GoT. More distraction.

IMG_4659.jpg

IMG_4658.jpg

IMG_4660.jpg

Addicted
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 677
Location: california
Mon Apr 15, 2019 7:33 pm quote
Pheas' - that's looking awesome.
On its way to a bad ass bikedom.
Your hammer skills are getting pretty damn good!

Q: What's the plan for putting those halves together?
Addicted
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 677
Location: california
Mon Apr 15, 2019 7:34 pm quote
Is there a ryobi welder hiding somewhere in that barn?
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 474
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Mon Apr 15, 2019 8:33 pm quote
Like a boss? (I have no idea what I'm doing...)

I have plenty of work left to go on the guard. Just getting enough material to cover that shock tower is the hardest part. Think I'm getting close.

IMG_4503.jpg

Addicted
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 677
Location: california
Mon Apr 15, 2019 8:56 pm quote
You'll have one of these - made from reshaped and welded spare parts - as your mud guard ornament by the time its done.

Screen Shot 2019-04-15 at 9.53.41 PM.jpg

Veni, Vidi, Posti
a not so normal vbb2 '64, a weirdo vbx '86 and a not so normal pts100 '82
Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 5488
Location: Indo
Tue Apr 16, 2019 2:56 am quote
Love the hammering result. And working with hammer sure does fun.. Stress releave
now good luck on the weld and cheer
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 474
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Tue Apr 16, 2019 3:21 am quote
Gonna let you all in on a little secret...

IMG_4663.jpg

IMG_4667.jpg

IMG_4668.jpg

IMG_4669.jpg

Addicted
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 677
Location: california
Tue Apr 16, 2019 5:06 pm quote
Grips & clutch are beefy/cool.
What are they off of?
Look like they have had a pre-life/ in a good way.
Can't just throw that out there with no info.
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 474
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Tue Apr 16, 2019 5:19 pm quote
Just some scooter cack I acquired to play with.

Hit my guard some more. Think it's close. Feedback?

IMG_4675.jpg

IMG_4676.jpg

IMG_4677.jpg

Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 474
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Tue Apr 16, 2019 6:11 pm quote
1/2 + 1/2 =)

Next step is to join them. Then straighten/finish.

IMG_4679.jpg

IMG_4678.jpg

Veni, Vidi, Posti
a not so normal vbb2 '64, a weirdo vbx '86 and a not so normal pts100 '82
Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 5488
Location: Indo
Tue Apr 16, 2019 8:45 pm quote
Looks good Brother P, ur left handle look interisting, seem ur running the ctutch cable outside.. i once saw a hidrolic clutch handle so it got the idea
Addicted
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 677
Location: california
Tue Apr 16, 2019 11:05 pm quote
I'm a fan.
NZ barn version of the custom German jobs.
Given that u r making it up as u go - Lookin pretty damn good.

Assume you will smooth out the mini dents once you've roughed I. The shape.

Having welded witha flux core machine tday for first time in my life - all I can say is - get some spare metal and practice first.

Play with heat and speed - it's gonna be a little challenging off the bat - and you have to connect a mudguard.

That said - having seen what Uve self taught so far... gonna b fine.

Looks cool
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 474
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Wed Apr 17, 2019 1:19 am quote
koenig blues wrote:
Looks good Brother P, ur left handle look interisting, seem ur running the ctutch cable outside.. i once saw a hidrolic clutch handle so it got the idea
Was just playing Brother E. That's not the intended tubes and grips ;P But they do look cool... Inspiration?

But I decided I had enough of hitting.
charlieman22 wrote:
I'm a fan.
NZ barn version of the custom German jobs.
Given that u r making it up as u go - Lookin pretty damn good.

Assume you will smooth out the mini dents once you've roughed I. The shape.

Having welded witha flux core machine tday for first time in my life - all I can say is - get some spare metal and practice first.

Play with heat and speed - it's gonna be a little challenging off the bat - and you have to connect a mudguard.

That said - having seen what Uve self taught so far... gonna b fine.

Looks cool
Yeah - no point in tidying the guard anymore until I have it joined back. The smallest piece of 1mm mild steel sheet I can find is 1.2 x 2.4... Think what I could build Did think of making a dolly to make guards! Lot of hours though...

I need them to cut me a sensible piece (their cutting machine wasn't working ffs) and play welding a fair bit.

But decided I wanted to do something about that Grabor on the MMW...

So I built a new switch instead...

IMG_4683.jpg

IMG_4684.jpg

IMG_4685.jpg

IMG_4687.jpg

Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 474
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Wed Apr 17, 2019 1:35 am quote
Oh, and if anyone is wondering:

IMG_4684 labled.jpg

Ossessionato
1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 4881
Location: So Cal
Wed Apr 17, 2019 5:02 am quote
Holy crap, that switch is a freaking work of art.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special + projects
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7309
Location: seattle/athens
Wed Apr 17, 2019 6:26 am quote
Sure do like that switch gear!
pheasant plucker wrote:
1/2 + 1/2 =)

Next step is to join them. Then straighten/finish.


Hint: When welding those back together or any welding on thin bodywork, use a chunk of copper clamped against the backside to absorb the heat and help avoid blowing through, The weld won't stick to copper.
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 474
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Wed Apr 17, 2019 7:44 am quote
SoCalGuy wrote:
Holy crap, that switch is a freaking work of art.
Thanks! My father is a jeweler. He taught me how to do this sort of stuff when I was a kid. So that means something - cheers. Functional art.

Gotta hope it does function tho. Should do - rated to 24v marine/auto grade switches from AliExpress.

Was stoked how easy this actually was (2hrs?) - but it’s just some holes drilled in a piece of aluminum.
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 474
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Wed Apr 17, 2019 7:49 am quote
V oodoo wrote:
Hint: When welding those back together or any welding on thin bodywork, use a chunk of copper clamped against the backside to absorb the heat and help avoid blowing through, The weld won't stick to copper.
I’m hearing you. Just need to find some decent copper!

This is where it could go horribly wrong. Guess there’s a good reason that the job title “welder” exists.

Must remember to pick up a fire extinguisher. There’s probably levels to how wrong this could go...
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special + projects
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7309
Location: seattle/athens
Wed Apr 17, 2019 9:00 am quote
finding copper
The first one is easy, some copper tubing squashed flat and shaped to fit snug to the back of the last thing I welded. The other two thicker pieces are harder to find, they're the giant contacts from a huge dead fuse found at the base of a utility pole. Maybe ask your power company service guys.



Another hint: bolt it together first, even if you need to drill a few new holes. Get the shape & seam how you like them then remove the bolts one at a time and tack weld where it was bolted.
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 474
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Wed Apr 17, 2019 11:44 am quote
Re: finding copper
V oodoo wrote:
The first one is easy, some copper tubing squashed flat and shaped to fit snug to the back of the last thing I welded. The other two thicker pieces are harder to find, they're the giant contacts from a huge dead fuse found at the base of a utility pole. Maybe ask your power company service guys.



Another hint: bolt it together first, even if you need to drill a few new holes. Get the shape & seam how you like them then remove the bolts one at a time and tack weld where it was bolted.
I've seen vice grip clamp things welders using. Kinda hoping to use those.

Want to void drilling more holes. The plans for the guard have less holes! Not more
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 474
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Wed Apr 17, 2019 11:49 am quote
Re: finding copper
V oodoo wrote:
Maybe ask your power company service guys.
Do you know how much like a meth-head I would sound? There was a spate of people stealing all copper that wasn't nailed down. Well even if it was nailed down. In fact even if it was carrying power... (think Darwin awards)

Something to fo with the rising cost of copper in China. Which is ironic since they were stealing it to pay for "P" (there's my name again ) which is what we call crystal meth over here. Which mostly comes from China. It was an import/export deal of sorts - we send them our copper in exchange for their hard drugs.

But it makes lose copper hard to come by these days.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special + projects
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7309
Location: seattle/athens
Wed Apr 17, 2019 10:39 pm quote
Re: finding copper
pheasant plucker wrote:
V oodoo wrote:
...
Another hint: bolt it together first, even if you need to drill a few new holes. Get the shape & seam how you like them then remove the bolts one at a time and tack weld where it was bolted.
I've seen vice grip clamp things welders using. Kinda hoping to use those.

Want to void drilling more holes. The plans for the guard have less holes! Not more
Those clamps are awkward and the good ones are expensive. Put your money into some Cleco clamps if you want the best result. SMALL holes, and by the time you do all the rest of the welding, another 1/8" hole or three to plug ain't nothin'. But I usually just use M3-M4 or 6-32 or 8-32 screws when there's no Clecos available.

Get all the Clecos or screws installed tight and you can see what it will look like when finished to make any adjustments needed. Tough to do that w/ big clamps

https://youtu.be/58xoIgy1ZRY
Hooked
1966 Sprint 150 & px200 and a shed full o shit
Joined: 15 Aug 2016
Posts: 119
Location: New Zealand
Thu Apr 18, 2019 5:26 am quote
feedback
pheasant plucker wrote:
Just some scooter cack I acquired to play with.

Hit my guard some more. Think it's close. Feedback?
is there enough room between the mudguard, body, wheel etc. when you use the front brake (or turn the bars)?

Chur
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 474
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Thu Apr 18, 2019 5:29 am quote
Speaking of clamps.

If anyone can tell me what this is for..?

Here's a clue. It's the keystone for my most technical mod. Think I've pulled it off =) But wont count chickens.

Still waiting on a few pieces to finish it anyway.

And charlieman22 - you can't guess. I think you might know already.

IMG_4720.jpg

Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1806

Thu Apr 18, 2019 8:13 am quote
Is it a steering damper mount? I'm guessing that those 7/8" (they don't look like a 1-1/8") bar clamps clamp onto something. The only reason I guess that is because I want to have a damper on my T5.
Addicted
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 677
Location: california
Thu Apr 18, 2019 10:24 am quote
What ever it is, it looks cool.

Voodoo - I'm drafting off the input on welding/tools/tips. Thanks!

Pheas' - that switch is awesome.
Addition of settings button a great touch for SIP speedo! Nice.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
a not so normal vbb2 '64, a weirdo vbx '86 and a not so normal pts100 '82
Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 5488
Location: Indo
Thu Apr 18, 2019 11:36 am quote
is that ur handle tube adaptor?
Addicted
Honda elite
Joined: 19 Jun 2007
Posts: 614
Location: California
Thu Apr 18, 2019 11:51 am quote
that's amazing work pheasant plucker
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 474
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Thu Apr 18, 2019 12:29 pm quote
whodatschrome wrote:
Is it a steering damper mount? I'm guessing that those 7/8" (they don't look like a 1-1/8") bar clamps clamp onto something. The only reason I guess that is because I want to have a damper on my T5.
What's a steering damper mount?

And <1/2". And Metric.
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 474
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Thu Apr 18, 2019 10:51 pm quote
Making things shiny... And work betterer.

Nice lines on this stiletto....

No one figured the keystone yet?

IMG_4746.jpg

IMG_4747.jpg

Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 474
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Thu Apr 18, 2019 10:59 pm quote
Re: feedback
PC73 wrote:
pheasant plucker wrote:
Just some scooter cack I acquired to play with.

Hit my guard some more. Think it's close. Feedback?
is there enough room between the mudguard, body, wheel etc. when you use the front brake (or turn the bars)?

Chur
Chur bro. Yeah all g. Tons of room. Just needs to be straightened.

Hammer and tongs.
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 474
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Sat Apr 20, 2019 5:19 am quote
The keystone is for cafe...

v1.jpg

v2.jpg

v3.jpg



Last edited by pheasant plucker on Sat Apr 20, 2019 5:29 am; edited 1 time in total
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 474
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Sat Apr 20, 2019 5:20 am quote
Bare metal cafe racer...

v4.jpg

v5.jpg

v6.jpg

v7.jpg

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special + projects
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7309
Location: seattle/athens
Sat Apr 20, 2019 7:45 am quote
Oh, I am liking this!

But don't you hate the waiting between when you can really start to see the bike and when you can ride it?

So... you gonna paint it? IMO, not terribly necessary.
& hey, you'd be riding sooner!
Addicted
Honda elite
Joined: 19 Jun 2007
Posts: 614
Location: California
Sat Apr 20, 2019 7:56 am quote
how do the mirrors work?
Molto Verboso
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 T5, 1996 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: 02 Aug 2015
Posts: 1614
Location: Veria, Greece
Sat Apr 20, 2019 9:32 am quote
Seeing the mirrors, I’d say your “keystone” holds the inner tubes. Did you use HK1412 bearings like I’m planning to do on my P??
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 474
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Sat Apr 20, 2019 1:05 pm quote
SaFiS wrote:
Seeing the mirrors, I’d say your “keystone” holds the inner tubes. Did you use HK1412 bearings like I’m planning to do on my P??
At 24mm I think the options for a P would be better - although haven't looked into the internal diameter and bearings that would fit. But you would get a bigger inner tube diameter - I'm limited to 22mm tube. That isn't 22mm... it's 21.8mm!

The secret that makes this work... to the last mm... is that PK tubes are also 21.8mm. But 325mm long. VBB tubes are 298mm... with blind ends. PK tubes - open ends!

The keystone holds the inner tubes. Those are quadcopter mounts. Quadcopters use 12mm tube (and 14 btw - which is what I suspect you will get in a 24mm P tube). Most of the load on those is axial. Turns out the axial strength of aluminum tube is high - can't twist it.

So 19-ish inner diameter - 19 OD x 12 ID needle rollers x2 in each tube.

IMG_4832.jpg

IMG_4829.jpg

Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 474
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Sat Apr 20, 2019 1:13 pm quote
hibbert wrote:
how do the mirrors work?
Very well...

I can't feel any play between the mirror and headset. Bit more shimming/ adjusting to do - was really rushed to finish that lathe work last night and need to tidy a few areas up. There is no grease in the bearings yet. Going to wash it all acetone to get any metal fillings out.

But proof will be in how much the mirrors vibrate with the motor running...
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 474
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Sat Apr 20, 2019 1:22 pm quote
V oodoo wrote:
Oh, I am liking this!

But don't you hate the waiting between when you can really start to see the bike and when you can ride it?

So... you gonna paint it? IMO, not terribly necessary.
& hey, you'd be riding sooner!
Yes... but I have made progress way faster than I expected. Somehow things going right first time for a change. Hyper-focus ftw.

I don't even have my motorbike licence yet! (don't need any for the ET2)

But no... it would be sacrilegious to paint this bike now. Fallen for the phosphate gun metal. And so this bike deserves nothing less that a rattle can job!

IMG_4497 2.jpg

IMG_4642.jpg

IMG_4643.jpg

Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 474
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Sat Apr 20, 2019 1:26 pm quote
I was playing with the idea of getting the headset bead-blasted and then anodised gun-metal (to try an match the body).

It is currently in the same state it came back from the chemical strippers. It clearly doesn't strip like mild steel - they hit it with a wire grinder by the looks of it. Also it doesn't take the phosphate coating.

But I don't think I could've asked for a better finish. They nailed it. It stays. Less work and $.
Team Scooter Trash for Petfinder Foundation   Vespa Wasp Pin Badges   AF1 Racing Vespa Austin
Post Reply    Forum -> Not-So-Modern Previous1234...91011Next
[ Time: 0.2269s ][ Queries: 25 (0.0511s) ][ Debug on ]