How to cheat and get a barn find.
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Hooked
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 433
Location: california
Sun Apr 28, 2019 10:01 am quote
+1 with Ebeth's comment on length - though little confused about 60mm?
Used this one from SIP - fit nicely - seemed just right.
Says its 1350mm.
Was shorter than some other options they had.
Tech at SIP tipped me off that I didn't want to go longer or it would be too long.



https://www.sip-scootershop.com/main/base/Results.aspx?t=30056000&d=(sco,ape,lam,old,px,sma,max,atv,mot)&a=1&sort=0
Veni, Vidi, Posti
a not so normal vbb2 '64, a weirdo vbx '86 and a not so normal pts100 '82
Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 5409
Location: Indo
Sun Apr 28, 2019 11:20 am quote
I forgot the number, they gave me 3 option, short, medium and long, i should of choose the short
Veni, Vidi, Posti
a not so normal vbb2 '64, a weirdo vbx '86 and a not so normal pts100 '82
Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 5409
Location: Indo
Sun Apr 28, 2019 11:25 am quote
I always easily forget number, so sorry guys
they gave me 3 option, short, medium and long.. I choose medium and i regret it as i should havd go for the short
Hooked
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 433
Location: california
Sun Apr 28, 2019 5:21 pm quote
Ebeth - that made me laugh.
Yes - I am also expert at getting numbers wrong - I also keep welding things on backwards.

Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 359
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Mon Apr 29, 2019 2:59 pm quote
Things that seem like they should be simple can quickly become a pain in the proverbial.

Getting the steering stop to function was tricky. And still not happy with it - needs more work.

Put a SIP Tubeless 2.0 rim w/ 3.50-10 on. Still port side... What am I missing??? The disc only just clears the swing arm. Time to swap out the hub and try some original wheels also.

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Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
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Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Mon Apr 29, 2019 3:05 pm quote
Oh... and for anyone who wants to see a SIP Tubeless 2.50-10 w/ 100/90-10 vs SIP Tubeless 2.0 (2.10-10) w/ 3.50-10 on it...

Not a big difference in size... but there is a difference.

I think the 2.0 has less offset to the left but haven't yet measured. It should have none. Hmmmm.

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Molto Verboso
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 T5, 1996 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: 02 Aug 2015
Posts: 1470
Location: Veria, Greece
Mon Apr 29, 2019 4:38 pm quote
Your bearings don't seem to be sitting properly. Maybe that's the reason your wheel is misaligned??

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Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 359
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Mon Apr 29, 2019 5:25 pm quote
SaFiS wrote:
Your bearings don't seem to be sitting properly. Maybe that's the reason your wheel is misaligned??
Yeah, nah - thats just a beat up dust cover. Rather than keep beating dust covers up I'm using that one until final build.
Hooked
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 433
Location: california
Mon Apr 29, 2019 5:58 pm quote
Quote:
Maybe that's the reason your wheel is misaligned??
SaFiS - good eye.
Pheas' - Suspect you have 2 things going on.

The stops are not only missing "inside" causing you to need to thicken up the frame so they can hit (nice job!) - they are also missing low.
In combo - your bearings look like they aren't closing up. Lower seat looks like it it also tilted - gaping in back.

Is there a mix and match of new bearings with old seats could be culprit? You might try all the orig bearing components to see if it improves fit.
Anyway - you will find it I'm sure - but bottom line is - the fork looks like it is not seating as high up as it should.

Popped off my horn and shot this for reference if helpful. Dust guard blocks view of proper gap between top and bottom race - but thought it might still be helpful. See below.


Also see pic below - repost of yours. How in the world did you drill that hole for bolt on left?

As for offset:

The C clip on the axle that goes on after you install the caliper hub side on, limits any washer stack issues. Your wheel hub is seated if the disc is a few mm away from the swing arm - which it is - so it has to be the wheel hub designed offset & or the rim - creating the offset.

The mud guard is designed to center - but the wheel is not centered in the mud guard in my experience (mud guard has to hide the shock and fork on one side - but sits centered on the bike - thus the offset ).

Perhaps others with PK forks can confirm - I don't think the wheel sits dead center.

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With what "favorite tool" did you drill the hole on the left? Hard to access.

Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 359
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Mon Apr 29, 2019 7:57 pm quote
[quote="charlieman22"]
Quote:
In combo - your bearings look like they aren't closing up. Lower seat looks like it it also tilted - gaping in back.

Is there a mix and match of new bearings with old seats could be culprit? You might try all the orig bearing components to see if it improves fit.
Anyway - you will find it I'm sure - but bottom line is - the fork looks like it is not seating as high up as it should.

Popped off my horn and shot this for reference if helpful. Dust guard blocks view of proper gap between top and bottom race - but thought it might still be helpful. See below.
The fork is seated and bearings gliding well. Honestly - I just put on the old dust cover I took off with a hammer/punch - it's a little bent. I took off the old VBB dust cover that goes on first too. I'll have another look but don't think that's the issue. Thinking of getting an oversize lower bearing mount tho - mine is pretty loose.

[quote="charlieman22"]
Quote:
Also see pic below - repost of yours. How in the world did you drill that hole for bolt on left?
Well spotted... Bigger. Better. Cheaper.

[quote="charlieman22"]
Quote:
As for offset:

The C clip on the axle that goes on after you install the caliper hub side on, limits any washer stack issues. Your wheel hub is seated if the disc is a few mm away from the swing arm - which it is - so it has to be the wheel hub designed offset & or the rim - creating the offset.

The mud guard is designed to center - but the wheel is not centered in the mud guard in my experience (mud guard has to hide the shock and fork on one side - but sits centered on the bike - thus the offset ).

Perhaps others with PK forks can confirm - I don't think the wheel sits dead center.
I put the star hub on and pretty sure get the same offset...

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Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
Posts: 359
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Mon Apr 29, 2019 8:02 pm quote
Even standard rims... Is your wheel offset too charlieman22? Is it the PK fork conversion??? Doesn't seem right... Unless placing PX hub/wheel on PK forks causes this offset?

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Hooked
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 433
Location: california
Mon Apr 29, 2019 8:23 pm quote
Yes - mine is a little offset.
Hard to measure with mud guard - but there is offset.

The issue seems to be offset of wheel vs centerline of fork.
I know that sounds obvious - but my point is - that PK fork in a PK chassis would also be offset - with any of the hubs you have tried.
SIP rims then have some different offsets as well - not sure which rims you have - but from your comments, you are already minimizing that?

Would be interested to hear from others - is the PK wheel normally offset with PK stock hub or is this an anomaly of all available conversion hubs on a PK fork?

Pheas' - which hub (flat or basket weave) are you using?
This is the basket weave one.

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/brake+drum+grimeca+nt+disc_39041000
Hooked
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 433
Location: california
Mon Apr 29, 2019 8:51 pm quote
See if this helps.
Asterix:
- Photos can always be a little misleading.
- Tried to get wheel reasonably straight for this shot.
- Bike is tilted outwardly a degree or two - part of side car set up.
- I am experimenting with wheels/tires myself currently. This is the tire and wheel that came with the bike.
- SIP wheel in background leaning is: 3.00-10", 50M, mounted on rim: SIP 2.10-10",
- Will shoot pic and compare offset when I re-install. I chose one with "no offset" - best I understood the German.
- I have the basket weave style hub - cause they were out of stock of the one I wanted.
* pro tip. SIP is in own development of a new hub - to replace their smooth sided model - which they have let run out of stock. It will not be ready until end of summer. It's possible it will have different offset?

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Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: 01 Sep 2017
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Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Mon Apr 29, 2019 9:03 pm quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Yes - mine is a little offset.
Hard to measure with mud guard - but there is offset.

Pheas' - which hub (flat or basket weave) are you using?
Yeah it does look like the same as mine. These SIP rims are for PKs - there should be no difference for PX/PK. The hubs should be interchangeable too.

I'm using an S&C hub. Flat.

But seems the same as the original star hub in terms of offset.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
a not so normal vbb2 '64, a weirdo vbx '86 and a not so normal pts100 '82
Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 5409
Location: Indo
Tue Apr 30, 2019 12:49 am quote
i once remember Brother Chris aka Vader19 spoke to me on my fb messangger saying that i should use the wider side of a pk rims on my not so normal smallie so that my rear tyre that using both wider size to accomodate the wide rims didnt get too offset, never did it cause i cannot find the rims but now i understand seeing u guys pics maybe the rims is smaller in the wider side compare to px nor sprint rims, but maybe cause i never did use it.. just ask a friend that using pk/corsa in a sprint to took the pics, wanna took my pink but its dark and rainny here so my camera didnt show much
Veni, Vidi, Posti
a not so normal vbb2 '64, a weirdo vbx '86 and a not so normal pts100 '82
Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 5409
Location: Indo
Tue Apr 30, 2019 1:17 am quote
tadaa..


this is my first attempt, the fender was straight at that time

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here's now, my huge shock making my fender not allighment, dont wanna hammer it down

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 6885
Location: Victoria, Australia
Wed May 01, 2019 2:33 am quote
I know your fork stops are all nice, neat and aluminum-y, but if you get stuck you can do this -

James fork stop 1.jpg

James fork stop 2.jpg

Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
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Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
Wed May 01, 2019 6:14 pm quote
Ginch wrote:
I know your fork stops are all nice, neat and aluminum-y, but if you get stuck you can do this -
Yeah - Iíve seen your steering stop hack. Looks legit. Just those nicely fashioned aluminum stops are already decent - just too short. Thought it wouldnít be hard to build up the frame stop - turns out I was wrong wrong wrong! Gonna play with a few more ideas... especially now I managed to get holes in the frame stop in roughly the right place...
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
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Wed May 01, 2019 6:18 pm quote
koenig blues wrote:
i once remember Brother Chris aka Vader19 spoke to me on my fb messangger saying that i should use the wider side of a pk rims on my not so normal smallie so that my rear tyre that using both wider size to accomodate the wide rims didnt get too offset, never did it cause i cannot find the rims but now i understand seeing u guys pics maybe the rims is smaller in the wider side compare to px nor sprint rims, but maybe cause i never did use it.. just ask a friend that using pk/corsa in a sprint to took the pics, wanna took my pink but its dark and rainny here so my camera didnt show much
Yeah Iím sure I read a thread on the smallie forum that had vaderís input. Can find it to share now - there are a lot of threads on alignment with pk forks px disc hub... sounds like you can expect 2-3mm offset (2.3mm is what is quoted) with pk fork and px disc hub. Believe scootering mag had an article about it and a rather complicated/involved fix. It also sounds like most (but not all) feel it doesnít affect handling enough to bother...
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 6885
Location: Victoria, Australia
Wed May 01, 2019 6:56 pm quote
I have a friend here who is currently doing something about that 2mm offset... he plans to grind back the face of the swingarm that the inner hub almost butts up against, then press the axle in 2mm as well. I'll try to get him to take pictures as he's not very good like that!
Hooked
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
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Location: california
Wed May 01, 2019 7:07 pm quote
Pheas'
I liked your solution - Ginch i'm not throwing shade at yours/ that is a no bullshit industrial stop if I have ever seen one.

But back to pheas' sit ee ation:
- thinking man would want to consider all pentameters.
- may not be as evident as first appears.
- if forks don't turn far enough, steering lock will not engage = never drink a cup of coffee at the cafe you raced to without worrying that the bike is being stolen.
- forks turn too far, headlight dings leg shield trim and beats it up.
- Hell, size/type and install of trim can effect height and interference with light trim ring - so even if you think you are "stock" - fine adjustment could be beneficial. (Ginch - let's not get in a long discussion about what "stock" means at this point please. I am making a point).

Point is: the gold std would be an adjustable solution that allows fine adjustment.

U already have holes drilled.

How about some form of bolt that can be adjusted in or out that the stops butt in to?

Few turns of the bolt in either direction makes stop deeper or more shallow by a few mm.

No idea how exactly - but seen your switch plate - and some remarkable thinking on the throttle. Can't wait to see the solution for this one.
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
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Wed May 01, 2019 11:24 pm quote
What Iíve made works... it just isnít quite right. Had I cut that port edge straight then Iíd be happy. Also would rather have the original dust cover on as well... not entirely sure why.

But also not so keen on aluminum banging against aluminum... so thinking of finding some rubber bushes and just bolting them on where the holes are.

Iím gonna have more than a steering lock to stop theft...
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
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Thu May 02, 2019 12:18 am quote
Ginch wrote:
I have a friend here who is currently doing something about that 2mm offset... he plans to grind back the face of the swingarm that the inner hub almost butts up against, then press the axle in 2mm as well. I'll try to get him to take pictures as he's not very good like that!
I canít think what that does to the axle seat/mount and disc-caliper alignment. Not something I would do for 2mm... easier to take 2mm off the hub tabs to bring the rim in?
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 6885
Location: Victoria, Australia
Thu May 02, 2019 1:30 am quote
I have to take something off the hub tabs for the smallie, but wouldn't be comfortable going to 2mm... not sure how close that would put the wheel (especially the Pinasco tubeless) to the caliper?
Veni, Vidi, Posti
a not so normal vbb2 '64, a weirdo vbx '86 and a not so normal pts100 '82
Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 5409
Location: Indo
Thu May 02, 2019 10:23 pm quote
would it be any help if i told you guys to cut the original one since u all wont using it again once the disc brake version is attach





plus it still have the gear for the speedo cable

good luck with the project and cheer guys
Hooked
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Fri May 03, 2019 12:34 am quote
Haha... Brother E - getting it done.

Got the clutch caliper mounted with some M5 grub screws. Replaced the grubs on the MMW too. And got the SIP speedo mounted. Headset close to being done. =)

Still waiting on pulleys though... =(

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Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
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Fri May 03, 2019 12:36 am quote
Mounted...

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Hooked
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Sat May 04, 2019 7:12 am quote
Pheas' - those grub screws are a sweet finish to the MMW and left brake/gear change. Gonna have to upgrade mine now... nice touch.

Question and a couple comments from my experience to ease assembly:
Q: Did you fab the black ring with what appears to be gear change marks on it for left side from std bar clamp ? (see pic) If yes - how did you cut those U shapes the marking studs sit in? That is a super nice piece.
C's:
- SIP speedo does not like voltage fluctuation natural to the AC std system. Not sure what your set up is - but if you have't already installed - highly suggest a regulator to avoid toasting it - don't ask me how I know...
- SIP speedo will give you option: separate power source and rev count from existing live feed (like headlight) or combine both to same. Assuming you have regulated power as per above - do yourself a favor and run some extra wires from it to the headset to regulator - for now and future. I would choose to separate inputs for SIP speedo if you have the option. ( I assume you are going no battery).
- Inner tunnel is full of sharp edges - i've had my camera down there... when you pull wires - they can shred. I ran pex through mine from exit at motor to just above lower fork bearing seat. You can pre-pull wires - then just slip the pex in through horn cast opening area and pull with what every you already fed to outlet at motor.
- Consider also leaving a "futures" line from gas tank space to headset for gas gauge or what ever. Yes - you can always pull more later - but it's nice to just have them there while so accessible.
- Finally - the set up for SIP speedo was simple - other than the fact that it was totally inaccurate when I put my tire size in. Used GPS speedo and just experimented with "tire size" input number until i got it tuned in accurately. A means to mount your phone angled slightly back towards you would be sweet - also provide you way to have NAV should you do a little touring.

Anyway - those are some crowd sourced thoughts for you to ponder/solve/ignore as you see fit.

Keep em coming - looks very cool.

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Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
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Sat May 04, 2019 9:12 am quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Pheas' - those grub screws are a sweet finish to the MMW and left brake/gear change. Gonna have to upgrade mine now... nice touch.
Thanks. I had to - had lost the original ones that came with the MMW and pressed that clutch caliper off an original tube - which by the way was the coolest thing to do... wish I had a video of it. Used that Ďmy scooter fell over and the tube is pushed iní post for inspiration. I.e. hit the outside end of the tube while holding the caliper. Also heated it with the blow torch. And the WD40 caught fire... so blue flames while being beaten! Looked awesome and worked. But didnít want to press it onto the new pk tube as better to have it adjustable.
charlieman22 wrote:
Q: Did you fab the black ring with what appears to be gear change marks on it for left side from std bar clamp ? (see pic) If yes - how did you cut those U shapes the marking studs sit in? That is a super nice piece.
Mate.. those are my indicator switches! Top = left, middle = right, bottom = hazard/both. Itís the m-Switch mini from Motogadget. Pairing it with the m.Relay+ which gives momentary control...

ďChange of lane: Short tap on push-button - blink 3x and automatic switch-off.

Turn: Pressing push-button shortly - blink 10x and automatic switch-offy.

Continuous flashing: Pressing push-button longer - switching off only after pressing the push-button repeatedly.

Additionally the m.relay+ is equipped with a hazard flasher function - activated by pressing both push-buttons simultaneously.Ē

https://motogadget.com/shop/en/m-switch-401.html

https://motogadget.com/shop/en/m-relay-blinkrelais-fur-taster.html
charlieman22 wrote:
( I assume you are going no battery).
Iím absolutely having a battery. E-start P200...

Plus anti-theft goodies

Hearing you on the wiring stuff. Speaking of - where did you put the connectors for the SIP speedo? Did you just cram them into the headset? The connecting loom is a pretty annoying length - not quite long enough to go somewhere useful, but so long as to take up precious space in a already getting cramped headset.
Hooked
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Sat May 04, 2019 12:31 pm quote
Quote:
Mate.. those are my indicator switches!
Chuckled.
Great look.
Thanks for posting link.

Ahh - SIP speedo:
- Outlet wires from bottom on short lead wrapped in sleeve to ensure maximum stiffness.
- Tons of wire to get caught in things that turn - like say your throttle cam.

I toyed around with the wires in the sleeve to spread and make it a bit more pliable - allowing them to flex forward. I had headlight out of course - and ran all the wires that connected to those towards the headlight.
You won't use all of them.
I then put the power box above the brake line - it pinned nicely there.
I wire tied it off to ensure it stayed put.
Finally, I coiled the wires in an S fashion and wire tied them as well - so they were tidy and snug.

Because I pre-fit as you did - I decided I was going to install the brake line before I did any of this - to ensure I didn't force that to have to move or tangle. The rest just sorta worked out - allowing me to choose what went over the brake line and what went under - with an eye on keeping it out of the throttle and shift cams. There was enough volume up at the front behind the light.

No idea why they ran the wires out the bottom on a short stiff lead like that.
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
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Sat May 04, 2019 10:24 pm quote
Plugging the various leads directly into the back of the speedo wouldíve worked better for me. Or a longer lead.. or a shorter one. The length they have given is frustrating!

The gear and throttle pulley should be clear of wiring - it either comes out the end of the inner tube, or through the switch channel.

The brake line should be ok - I think I have length to take a wide turn around the far side of the headset before dipping down the fork - 1450mm.

Might be tricky getting the clutch cable through - has to go either into/through or around the inner tube. I think there are pretty small cables (eg BGM Pro) and around will work. Havenít cut the tube holes for that yet.

Also want to route a brake switch for the front - might try and get back to the switch cable channel...
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 6885
Location: Victoria, Australia
Sat May 04, 2019 11:52 pm quote
Yeah. SIP speedo. It's awesome that you have all the options, but as you say PP, it would be soooo much better if they just let you lug in the stuff you want. In my headset you really need to squash the wire bundle down hard as it hits the cable plate thingy...I have a plastic one.

Charlieman, do you have a picture? I can't imagine what you've done from that description.
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
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Sun May 05, 2019 2:00 am quote
Maybe you can answer this Ginch (or anyone else please). When putting a P200 in a VBB... do you need a cables for clutch/gears/throttle for a VBB or PX200?

I have the old ones so was planning on seeing how they fit before ordering new ones...
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 6885
Location: Victoria, Australia
Sun May 05, 2019 2:58 am quote
pheasant plucker wrote:
Maybe you can answer this Ginch (or anyone else please). When putting a P200 in a VBB... do you need a cables for clutch/gears/throttle for a VBB or PX200?

I have the old ones so was planning on seeing how they fit before ordering new ones...
Cables are the same I'm fairly sure... have a look at this chart (found by Voodoo) and compare the length of yours.

What you really need as well is a gear roll (pulley) for the headset that can handle the additional travel required to operate the P gear selector.

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/gear+roll+sip+steering+head+_13979462

Cable length chart.jpg

Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
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Sun May 05, 2019 3:02 am quote
koenig blues wrote:
would it be any help if i told you guys to cut the original one since u all wont using it again once the disc brake version is attach





plus it still have the gear for the speedo cable

good luck with the project and cheer guys
I finally realised - this is you getting a conversion axle seating with your trusty grinder! One that maintains alignment perfectly. If you can get a hub and disc to fit... Speaking of - how have you mounted the caliper? In fact... your whole fork assembly has me stumped right now. Can you explain how you did yours?
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
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Sun May 05, 2019 3:11 am quote
Ginch wrote:
pheasant plucker wrote:
Maybe you can answer this Ginch (or anyone else please). When putting a P200 in a VBB... do you need a cables for clutch/gears/throttle for a VBB or PX200?

I have the old ones so was planning on seeing how they fit before ordering new ones...
Cables are the same I'm fairly sure... have a look at this chart (found by Voodoo) and compare the length of yours.

What you really need as well is a gear roll (pulley) for the headset that can handle the additional travel required to operate the P gear selector.

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/gear+roll+sip+steering+head+_13979462
Thanks. I figured they must be but will measure and use the chart.

Can't use those gear rolls - pk tubes now not vbb. Open-ended with my inner tubes sticking out. I'm still waiting on the pieces I need to sort the pulleys out... cheap but rare from the dark depths of China.

I have the pulleys for a pk headset. The gear-roll one is bizarre and no way it would work in a VBB headset. I don't understand enough about pk's to understand the way the pulley works. The throttle pulley would work. But I need to clamp my tubes in/pulleys on - with no pin either.
Hooked
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Sun May 05, 2019 3:16 am quote
If you look at the chart the difference between a P and large frame 8" is pretty big! Clutch and gears 191 vs 175cm.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 6885
Location: Victoria, Australia
Sun May 05, 2019 3:27 am quote
Yeah I forgot you were on 8's previously!

Some PK's were a one-cable arrangement, maybe that's what you're looking at?
Hooked
bare metal cafe racer
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Sun May 05, 2019 10:37 am quote
Ginch wrote:
Yeah I forgot you were on 8's previously!

Some PK's were a one-cable arrangement, maybe that's what you're looking at?
Thatís exactly what I thought I was looking at. Have no idea how that works tho.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
a not so normal vbb2 '64, a weirdo vbx '86 and a not so normal pts100 '82
Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 5409
Location: Indo
Sun May 05, 2019 7:10 pm quote
pheasant plucker wrote:
koenig blues wrote:
would it be any help if i told you guys to cut the original one since u all wont using it again once the disc brake version is attach





plus it still have the gear for the speedo cable

good luck with the project and cheer guys
I finally realised - this is you getting a conversion axle seating with your trusty grinder! One that maintains alignment perfectly. If you can get a hub and disc to fit... Speaking of - how have you mounted the caliper? In fact... your whole fork assembly has me stumped right now. Can you explain how you did yours?
my english is bad when it come to a tecnical part, so a picture will help more.. my whole fork assembly, well its a px hub that i jb weld and reshape to match the bolt for a rear yamaha disc and the nap that i cut from a px, as for the caliper mounted its a home made out of thick steel.. well basicly the whole think in the convesion is a homemade thats why its cheap, all i buy is just a used disc and kawahara caliper and a scarlet brake house and some bolts

WhatsApp Image 2019-05-06 at 10.22.55.jpeg
nothing special about the caliper braket i guess

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this is the nap that i grind

WhatsApp Image 2019-05-06 at 10.23.01.jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2019-05-06 at 10.23.04.jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2019-05-06 at 10.23.06.jpeg
if i tell you about the bolt in the swing arm u will laugh, i am sure :lol:

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