Unrestored SS180 - What to look for?
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Molto Verboso
08 GTS 250, 79 P200E, 62 Allstate
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 1225
Location: Florence, OR
Sat Nov 24, 2018 5:48 pm quote
Its alive! Congratulations! Now the fun begins - all the "stuff" that needs to be cleaned up or replaced. And a nice once over with rubbing compound and wax would make that old paint look fabulous!

I'm excited to see you get it back on the road - good job!
Hooked
1964 GS160, 1966 90ss
Joined: 08 Sep 2011
Posts: 225

Sat Nov 24, 2018 7:17 pm quote
Did you use US gas? Oops. You're supposed to use the special Piaggio "petrol".
I think you ruined it, but I'll buy it off you for scrap.



Seriously though, nice work. For your other questions:

1. That's just how the throttle works for the most part. Think of it as cruise control.

2. You could probably use that tap with the lever always set to "reserve". It looks like the "running" inlet is toast. Taps have 3 positions: closed, running, reserve. The running inlet draws from the middle of the tank volume. Reserve is from the bottom. If you decide to replace it, the GS/SS have a unique wrench for installing. You get to pay twice. Get used to it.
Member
Joined: 07 Jun 2018
Posts: 35
Location: Maryland
Sat Nov 24, 2018 8:25 pm quote
Lol, I'll keep that in mind. It's actually running on my chainsaw gas, with an extra splash of gas to bump it up to 20:1 from 16:1.

As for the fuel tap, I may have a big enough crows-foot. I'll have to check. There are two tubes. The one that's cracked is the one that goes all the way up to the top of the tank. The one for "run" is only like 3" tall and seems fine as far as I can tell. I'm thinking there might be an issue with fuel leaking into this vent tube if I fill the tank? May be what got it parked in the first place years ago. Looks repairable to me, just have to get it out of there and solder a sleeve over the crack.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 50s x2 78 P200 84 Cosa 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special + projects
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7069
Location: seattle/athens
Sat Nov 24, 2018 9:08 pm quote
JLeather wrote:
Lol, I'll keep that in mind. It's actually running on my chainsaw gas, with an extra splash of gas to bump it up to 20:1 from 16:1.

... Looks repairable to me, just have to get it out of there and solder a sleeve over the crack.
A little smokey, is it? I've heated & bent the standard tap wrench to use in a Rally 180 tank, which I think is the same as yours, but I like your whole plan however you get it out. With the crack, you may not be able to shut off the gas completely and if your float needle leaks at all, better keep an eye out for a puddle if there's still gas in the tank.

Good work so far, but where's fresh pics? Been doing any love rubs anywhere?
Ossessionato
1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 4827
Location: So Cal
Sun Nov 25, 2018 7:33 am quote
SoCalGuy wrote:
Bet it fires right up with fresh mix & a new plug.
Just sayin ...
Hooked
Joined: 13 Dec 2014
Posts: 208
Location: Ohio USA
Sun Nov 25, 2018 1:02 pm quote
That split vent tube is a disaster waiting to happen. The vent tube bypasses the on/off positions of the fuel tap. Fine to run it as is, but would recommend siphoning the fuel out if you are not running the motor for any length of time.

The tap wrench is not all that expensive, nor is the tap. you'll spend way more for gaskets/seals/etc. Might as well get the grey cowl rubber, horn and taillight gaskets, etc.


http://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Factory-Tools/T-27329

http://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Fuel-Taps-and-Parts/180056

Nice survivor. See how the paint cleans up, strip the over spray off the hardware/cowl buffers, etc. I bet it looks killer after that.


It looks like it was "restored" in the 80's or 90's, people were able to not completely bodge repaints back then.

Removing trim/emblems/floor rails, etc. before paint was not impossible.

P1010019.JPG
Some previous owner thought silver would be awesome on my GS160 Mk2...and it's over epoxy primer. :(

P1010122.JPG
What your motor should look like with all the correct rubbers/clamps/etc.

Hooked
Joined: 13 Dec 2014
Posts: 208
Location: Ohio USA
Sun Nov 25, 2018 1:51 pm quote
Another couple of views of coil wiring.

Also, you are lucky to have the original gear selector cover. Usually lost, and the reproductions are not that good.

coil wiring 2.JPG
All cleaned up.

coil wiring 1.JPG
How it was handed to me.

Member
vespa
Joined: 11 Jul 2017
Posts: 34
Location: Iowa
Sun Nov 25, 2018 3:45 pm quote
JLeather wrote:
I'm still here and still regularly lurking. I got my Vermont registration and turned it into a MD title/tags so that's all good. Been tinkering on the Vespa a bit this long holiday weekend (in spite of a bunch of other more important projects ahead of it). I have freed up the various controls. The throttle won't fully return by itself, but it does move fairly easily. I have also confirmed it has excellent spark and have reinstalled the old Champion plug which I found in the glovebox. I'm going to see if it wants to fire up, but I have a question. There seems to be a crack/split in what I assume is the vent tube inside the tank (see picture). It's way down near the bottom at the tap. Is that supposed to be there and/or ok to put fuel in or will I have a mess?
What did you do to get that Vermont registration ? I have 1979 with out a title.
Member
Joined: 07 Jun 2018
Posts: 35
Location: Maryland
Tue Nov 27, 2018 6:29 pm quote
vma1racer wrote:
Might as well get the grey cowl rubber, horn and taillight gaskets, etc.
Thanks for the pics/info. Should the cowl rubber have been grey? The bike could use (at a minimum so far) a taillight gasket, glovebox gasket, horn gasket, choke grommet, kicker rubber, rear brake rubber, fuel tap/hose, and tires/tubes (leaning heavily towards the Pirelli SC30's). Haven't found any one source that has everything.
Member
Joined: 07 Jun 2018
Posts: 35
Location: Maryland
Tue Nov 27, 2018 6:31 pm quote
V oodoo wrote:
Good work so far, but where's fresh pics? Been doing any love rubs anywhere?
Haven't done any cleaning yet, except where I've spilled WD-40. I need to pick up some new rubber bits, remove the horn/headlight/etc and get a claybar, but I always prefer the mechanical part more...
Member
Joined: 07 Jun 2018
Posts: 35
Location: Maryland
Tue Nov 27, 2018 6:36 pm quote
Fatboy04 wrote:
What did you do to get that Vermont registration ? I have 1979 with out a title.
I followed the walkthrough here:

How to Guide- Apply for a Vermont plate

My application got kicked back once because I missed a signature spot, but otherwise I had no issues either at the Vermont end or here in MD.
Member
Joined: 07 Jun 2018
Posts: 35
Location: Maryland
Sun Mar 10, 2019 4:15 pm quote
In honor of the first day in months over 50*F I pulled the scooter out for cleaning. Soap and water first, followed by a clay bar to remove some of the stuck-on rubber and lastly some spray wax. I ran out of daylight before the spray wax, so the outside pics are just the washing and clay bar and the shots inside the garage are waxed. Full disclosure, it looks a little better in the pics than in person, but it did clean up really well. I also cleaned and lightly polished the taillight (which is admittedly pitted) and replaced both gaskets.

Outside (washed and clay bar'd):

IMG_20190310_174833125.jpg

IMG_20190310_174838750.jpg

IMG_20190310_174845484.jpg

IMG_20190310_174854785.jpg

IMG_20190310_174903977.jpg

Member
Joined: 07 Jun 2018
Posts: 35
Location: Maryland
Sun Mar 10, 2019 4:23 pm quote
Inside (waxed). A generous scooter rider on Facebook sent me a nice original legshield badge that I will be adding as soon as I'm done with the cleaning. How is that attached?

I also have two big boxes of stuff from Scooter Mercato to be installed (tires, tubes, petcock, fuel line, kicker rubber, glovebox rubber, grey cowl rubbers, plugs, oil, mixing cup, etc). Hopefully it will get warm and stay that way soon.

IMG_20190310_175631590.jpg

IMG_20190310_175638718.jpg

IMG_20190310_175658584.jpg

IMG_20190310_175707257.jpg

Member
Joined: 07 Jun 2018
Posts: 35
Location: Maryland
Mon Mar 18, 2019 5:18 am quote
gmontag wrote:
Amazing score!
It kind of looks like something caught the inside of one of the louvres on the engine side. Maybe it was one of the flywheel bolts. You can replace those hex bolts with rounded cap versions to avoid this. It was a big problem on the GS160; not sure about the SS180.
Does anyone have any more info on this? I reassembled the cowls last night with new pin rubbers and new trim, and they are indeed less than 1/16" away from the engine flywheel bolts. In two places on the cowl the bolts have lightly hit at some time in the past. Also with very minimal effort (one finger) you can push on the center of the bottom edge of the cowl until the bolts touch. Seems like a decent bump or brushing it against your leg while running would be the end of the louvers. I could also attach some bits of rubber to the inside of the louvers away from the bolts to act as bumpers against the engine case?

IMG_20190317_201643264.jpg

Hooked
1964 GS160, 1966 90ss
Joined: 08 Sep 2011
Posts: 225

Mon Mar 18, 2019 5:50 am quote
I think it was just a design flaw. With all the missing and battered GS160 louvres I've seen I'm stunned they didn't address it on the SS180. One of my louvres has a perfect hex bolt shaped notch.

Here's what I did after welding in new louvres. Keeping it original is cool except in the case of self harm. ( I realize the old tab washers now do nothing. I just didn't want to lose them )

IMG_5924.JPG

Member
Joined: 07 Jun 2018
Posts: 35
Location: Maryland
Mon Mar 18, 2019 5:58 am quote
Did you use Loctite of some kind since the tab washers no longer function? What's the ballpark torque on those supposed to be?
Hooked
1964 GS160, 1966 90ss
Joined: 08 Sep 2011
Posts: 225

Mon Mar 18, 2019 6:06 am quote
JLeather wrote:
Did you use Loctite of some kind since the tab washers no longer function? What's the ballpark torque on those supposed to be?
I can't remember if I used Loctite. Sorry. It's been at least 15 years and they are still snug.
Member
Joined: 07 Jun 2018
Posts: 35
Location: Maryland
Tue Mar 19, 2019 6:13 am quote
Having trouble replacing the gasket on my glovebox. It had remnants of a gasket when I got it, but it was falling apart. Bought a new gasket from ScooterMercato and it seems to be way too thick. Can't close the box with the gasket on. Is it possible I need to adjust (bend) the hinges to gain some clearance at the bottom of the opening? Anyone had a similar problem? The lid is fairly tough to shut even without the gasket.
Hooked
Joined: 13 Dec 2014
Posts: 208
Location: Ohio USA
Tue Mar 19, 2019 5:36 pm quote
You need to adjust the hinge, especially since it's hard to close without the gasket. You may want to remove the glovebox to see where you need to tweak things from the inside.
Member
Joined: 07 Jun 2018
Posts: 35
Location: Maryland
Wed Mar 20, 2019 6:50 am quote
Thanks. It appears that the issue is that the top of the glovebox has a shallow dent that changed the latch geometry. I managed to get it to work with the gasket and the key part of the latch, but not the sliding part of the latch. Good enough for the time being.
Member
'81 Special, '78 P150X, '13 LML Star 200
Joined: 30 Nov 2018
Posts: 47
Location: Ukraine
Wed Mar 20, 2019 2:21 pm quote
Wow! It's look amazing! Congrats!
Member
Joined: 07 Jun 2018
Posts: 35
Location: Maryland
Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:04 pm quote
Still tinkering with my 180SS project. Cleaned the carb and replaced the gaskets, float, and needle. What's the initial setting of the small screw at the front bottom of the carb (idle mixture I assume)? Also it looked like the jets inside were 60/160, is that stock? Bike starts and runs pretty well now. The video below was the second start (still cold). It seems however that from sitting so long the clutch is either sticking or misadjusted. When I tried dropping it into gear the bike lurched and stalled (a little exciting in my cramped garage). Need to sort that out before I can take a short ride/warmup. Anyone got a suggestion besides dropping it into gear a couple more times and seeing if it breaks loose?

Video:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=egH41J2ikco

Addicted
GL, PK, PE200
Joined: 24 Apr 2012
Posts: 662
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:39 pm quote
Jetting seems stock. http://scooterlounge.com/vespa/reference-library/vespa-stock-jetting-reference-guide.shtml

Clutch cork plates are properly dry and need changing so it can work.
Removal: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMH27kYGDTk
Rebuild: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fAWbCPFgTZs
Molto Verboso
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: 16 Apr 2011
Posts: 1102
Location: Siam
Wed Sep 11, 2019 7:35 pm quote
JLeather wrote:
gmontag wrote:
Amazing score!
It kind of looks like something caught the inside of one of the louvres on the engine side. Maybe it was one of the flywheel bolts. You can replace those hex bolts with rounded cap versions to avoid this. It was a big problem on the GS160; not sure about the SS180.
Does anyone have any more info on this? I reassembled the cowls last night with new pin rubbers and new trim, and they are indeed less than 1/16" away from the engine flywheel bolts. In two places on the cowl the bolts have lightly hit at some time in the past. Also with very minimal effort (one finger) you can push on the center of the bottom edge of the cowl until the bolts touch. Seems like a decent bump or brushing it against your leg while running would be the end of the louvers. I could also attach some bits of rubber to the inside of the louvers away from the bolts to act as bumpers against the engine case?
This is all a concern of mine as well building an SS. Awhile back I ordered a set of gray cowl rubbers from Mauro Pascoli and I have noticed that they are slightly thicker than most other sets I've seen. I haven't come close to building the bike yet so I can't check the clearance, but I'm inclined to think that they may set the cowl out just enough to prevent the fly wheel bolts from contacting the louvres.
Member
Joined: 07 Jun 2018
Posts: 35
Location: Maryland
Sun Sep 15, 2019 7:03 am quote
Anyone have anything good or bad to say about the Scooter West clutch kit?

https://www.scooterwest.com/complete-clutch-overhaul-kit-vespa-ss180.html

It's the only complete kit I can find. I can get the steels, friction plates, and gaskets from Scooter Mercato for like $30, but not the springs or bearing/thrust washer. Figure I should go ahead and get it all or just the friction bits?
Molto Verboso
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: 16 Apr 2011
Posts: 1102
Location: Siam
Mon Sep 16, 2019 5:04 am quote
JLeather wrote:
In honor of the first day in months over 50*F I pulled the scooter out for cleaning. Soap and water first, followed by a clay bar to remove some of the stuck-on rubber and lastly some spray wax. I ran out of daylight before the spray wax, so the outside pics are just the washing and clay bar and the shots inside the garage are waxed. Full disclosure, it looks a little better in the pics than in person, but it did clean up really well. I also cleaned and lightly polished the taillight (which is admittedly pitted) and replaced both gaskets.

Outside (washed and clay bar'd):
Could you do me a favor and measure the very bottom edge of the center of the badge where it goes straight down the center of the seem to the top edge of the tail light rubber? I have to drill holes for the rear badge and I want to get it as right as possible.
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