Lady in Red
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Hooked
2016 LXV 150 ie, 2009 GTS Super, 1978 Vespa P125
Joined: 06 Jul 2016
Posts: 324
Location: central Illinois USA
Sun Sep 16, 2018 3:57 pm quote
Hello pretty Red lady, it looks like you now have a very busy life with a man that knows how to buy you lots of ‘stuff’ and tends your needs and wants. Hope you 2 have many year and happy miles together.
Ossessionato
1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 4253
Location: So Cal
Sun Sep 16, 2018 5:08 pm quote
The tail and pilot lights are normally on the same circuit.
Hooked
Joined: 13 Dec 2014
Posts: 198
Location: Ohio USA
Sun Sep 16, 2018 5:32 pm quote
Download the service station manual. The taillight wire is yellow. Brake light is blue. Front pilot light is pink, and connects to yellow on the handlebar switch.

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Hooked
‘64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Mon Sep 17, 2018 12:31 pm quote
Thanks vma1racer
I have the manual printed out and in reviewing the diagram and the way the lights behaved I may have a loose/corroded connection at the terminal block. Was initially concerned that it could be a stator issue but both the yellow feed for the tail/pilot lights and the blue wire for the brake light come off of the same coil on the stator it may hopefully be that simple she goes up on the lift tomorrow night for a closer look.
While I was at Autozone buying more wheel paint decided to upgrade my polishing products from the generic white compound and turtle wax.
Spent less than five minutes rubbing polishing and waxing the headset. It went from dull and rough to shiny and smooth.
Will go after the front of the leggy tomorrow.

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Well worth the cost

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Before

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After

Hooked
‘64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Wed Sep 19, 2018 3:44 am quote
I want to remove the Vespa 90 badge to refinish it and polish underneath it. It appears that I could use a small punch on the inside of the leggy to tap the rivets out far enough to pull them with pliers. Is there another way that will not damage the paint on the front?

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Hooked
Honda elite
Joined: 19 Jun 2007
Posts: 307
Location: California
Wed Sep 19, 2018 10:42 am quote
exmayor wrote:
I want to remove the Vespa 90 badge to refinish it and polish underneath it. It appears that I could use a small punch on the inside of the leggy to tap the rivets out far enough to pull them with pliers. Is there another way that will not damage the paint on the front?
Don’t do it
Hooked
1964 GS160, 1974 Rally 200, 1966 90ss
Joined: 08 Sep 2011
Posts: 168

Wed Sep 19, 2018 11:29 am quote
hibbert wrote:
exmayor wrote:
I want to remove the Vespa 90 badge to refinish it and polish underneath it. It appears that I could use a small punch on the inside of the leggy to tap the rivets out far enough to pull them with pliers. Is there another way that will not damage the paint on the front?
Don’t do it
Seconded. It's going to look worse. Then there's the matter of re-attaching it without taking paint off.

I'd take a medium stiff toothbrush to GENTLY clean out the gunk around the lettering. Tidy up the black with a sharpie if it really bothers you.
Hooked
1964 GS160, 1974 Rally 200, 1966 90ss
Joined: 08 Sep 2011
Posts: 168

Wed Sep 19, 2018 11:45 am quote
If you want to go nuts on the shine try the Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze.

Not an paid spokesman, just a satisfied customer.
Ossessionato
1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 4253
Location: So Cal
Wed Sep 19, 2018 12:38 pm quote
Thirded. There’s plenty of ways to clean up the badge without removing it, and reattaching it correctly is harder than it looks.

Last edited by SoCalGuy on Wed Sep 19, 2018 12:39 pm; edited 1 time in total
Hooked
‘64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Wed Sep 19, 2018 12:39 pm quote
hibbert and gmontag thanks for the heads up. The more I looked at it I realized best leave it alone. Clean up and touch up will work fine
Veni, Vidi, Posti
a herd of easy shifty rats
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 6637
Location: seattle/athens
Wed Sep 19, 2018 12:42 pm quote
gmontag wrote:
hibbert wrote:
exmayor wrote:
I want to remove the Vespa 90 badge to refinish it and polish underneath it. It appears that I could use a small punch on the inside of the leggy to tap the rivets out far enough to pull them with pliers. Is there another way that will not damage the paint on the front?
Don’t do it
Seconded. It's going to look worse. Then there's the matter of re-attaching it without taking paint off.

I'd take a medium stiff toothbrush to GENTLY clean out the gunk around the lettering. Tidy up the black with a sharpie if it really bothers you.
Thirded, why take a chance that there will be zero improvement or possibly catastrophe if it breaks? I get where you're coming from, you want it looking the best and the rest of your efforts are progressing very nicely!
Hooked
2018 GTS 300 sei giorni, 2012 LXV 125ie and V90
Joined: 11 Mar 2018
Posts: 114
Location: Eternal Spring Country/Guatemala
Wed Sep 19, 2018 2:46 pm quote
I broke mine trying to take it off and had to buy a new one. Loosong the pride of having the original one.
Hooked
‘64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Fri Sep 21, 2018 1:44 pm quote
Got her up on the lift this afternoon to take a look at the lighting issues. First removed the cover from the junction box as I suspected a possible loose yellow wire connection. All the screws were tight but the blue brake circuit from the stator is really frayed. Decided at that point I need to pull the motor to assess what else needs attention. Went on to the brake light on all the time problem.
Loosened the cable and when I pulled the pedal assembly down an old 6mm x 20 hex bolt dropped out. It was not one of the three securing the pedal assembly and must have been inside the tunnel for a while. It’s missing from somewhere so more to discover. Found the problem, the stop had broken off so the switch was always on. There is a local guy who will repair it for me next week.

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54 years of service takes its toll

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problem found

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Should not be a difficult repair

Addicted
2008 GTS 250, 1979 P200E
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 829
Location: Florence, OR
Fri Sep 21, 2018 4:07 pm quote
Nice job! I'm envious of that scooter lift! Good find identifying and fixing the lighting. I'm loving how these machines are put together.
Hooked
‘64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Fri Sep 21, 2018 4:13 pm quote
Share the lift with a friend. Got it this spring from harbor freight on sale. $125 each.
Hooked
‘64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Sat Sep 22, 2018 12:53 pm quote
Pulling motor for first time was easier than expected. The lift made it far easier
Everything is home now and cleaned and up so I can get after pulling and cleaning up that fork and refinishing the rear backing plate and drum.

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Veni, Vidi, Posti
a herd of easy shifty rats
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 6637
Location: seattle/athens
Sat Sep 22, 2018 3:08 pm quote
I love the tin shrouds on these, bulletproof. The finish, what's left of it, is original as well as on the red fan cover. Looks like you've cleaned the motor up nicely, hopefully wasn't too filthy when you got it. The motor was removed and cleaned about like your pic when it arrived ~5 years ago, then we've just ridden it so was probably grubby. So looks like riding season is over there for now and you're getting ready to ship motor off to Gick for your planned upgrades? Plenty of other stuff to keep you busy until motor gets back, you'll have it like new under the patina.
Hooked
‘64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Sat Sep 22, 2018 3:31 pm quote
V oodoo
When I found the broken brake pedal stop and the deterioration of the stator wires the decision to sort things out kind of made itself.
It gives me an opportunity to go thru everything in the running gear and grease or renew as needed. It is a piece of mind thing for me.
My goal is always make that part “as new” plus it is the part of the mechanical work I enjoy the most. When I was in my late 20’s I built engines and transmissions for my friends SCCA Sprite and Spitfire. After that I found that the engine part of a project interested me less and less.
So now I just play to my strengths and really enjoy my time as a caretaker.
Hooked
Joined: 13 Dec 2014
Posts: 198
Location: Ohio USA
Sat Sep 22, 2018 3:45 pm quote
exmayor wrote:
I want to remove the Vespa 90 badge to refinish it and polish underneath it. It appears that I could use a small punch on the inside of the leggy to tap the rivets out far enough to pull them with pliers. Is there another way that will not damage the paint on the front?
Do not punch out those rivets! The "Rodaggio" decal is not reproduced correctly, and you will ruin it when trying to re-strike the new rivets.

Work your polishing around the script carefully, don't worry about what's underneath.

Touch up the "Vespa 90" badge with a paint pen if you need to, assuming you are not doing a repaint.

It looks like you do not need to repaint. Preserve rather than restore.

Rewiring the stator is ok, of course. Your rebuilder (Gick?) can handle that.

I'd worry more about the black horn and taillight housing...

Last edited by vma1racer on Sat Sep 22, 2018 3:52 pm; edited 1 time in total
Hooked
‘64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Sat Sep 22, 2018 3:50 pm quote
vma1racer
Am leaving the badge and all the paint as is. The primary I bought her was that she wears her age very well. Doing suspension brakes and cables is just the right thing for me to do after 54 years of service.
Hooked
Joined: 13 Dec 2014
Posts: 198
Location: Ohio USA
Sat Sep 22, 2018 3:59 pm quote
exmayor wrote:
vma1racer
Am leaving the badge and all the paint as is. The primary I bought her was that she wears her age very well. Doing suspension brakes and cables is just the right thing for me to do after 54 years of service.
I edited my post above with regards to the black horn and taillight housing. Brakes/cables/rubber is all good for a preservation, although I would leave the floor rubbers and rails alone if they're 75%+/- good.

I just finished my 1965 Allstate mechanical restoration, still OG floor rubbers, cables, wiring. Has has a bit of a cleaning, but still has 37 additional holes drilled in it from its previous life as a shriner scooter.:

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No paint, just rubber and mechanical restoration.

Hooked
Joined: 13 Dec 2014
Posts: 198
Location: Ohio USA
Sat Sep 22, 2018 4:05 pm quote
If your cables and chassis wiring are dirty just clean them up before condemning them. You will be amazed how well they clean up if they are just dirty and not all frayed and split. Originals are way better than the garbage that is sold these days.

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Oooh, nasty cables , better replace them with some crap Indian ones!

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Oh, wait...these cleaned up nicely. And the shift cables are the correct colors.

Hooked
Joined: 13 Dec 2014
Posts: 198
Location: Ohio USA
Sat Sep 22, 2018 4:28 pm quote
Also, if your cables have the metal band clamp do your best to preserve it.

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Original band clamp.

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Original clamp as installed

Hooked
‘64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Sun Sep 23, 2018 4:27 am quote
vma1racer
Lovely looking Allstate.
One of the shift inner cables and the rear brake inner are very badly frayed, I have replacenments. All of the outers look to be serviceable. I know V oodoo replaced some cables that were frozen when he got her 5 years ago.
Going slowly and evaluating everything. As a noobie don’t want to take her too far away from original.
The overall goal is to have a solid enjoyable around the city runner.
Hooked
‘64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Sun Sep 23, 2018 12:35 pm quote
Opened up the carburetor this morning to take a look. Before pulling the motor she was running rich and I couldn’t raise the idle speed even though the idle screw was all the way in.
Even after the 4mi run over to my friends the plug was wet and sooty.
The carb was very clean inside with just a little what looked like rust residue on the filter screen.
Found some interesting jetting
V oodoo had put on a pipe and 19/19 so I expected her to be a little upjetted
Currently running. SHBC 19/19 with 78 main 45 slow running 60 starter and a 10569.1 slide
Stock V90 is a SHB16/16 with 63 main 38 slow running and 50 starter couldn’t find slide specs (doesn’t really matter)
I am going to a Sport100 top end which calls for SHB19/19. 74 main 42 slow running and 60 starter with a 7938.1 slide.
I could have turned screws all day and not sorted it out.
Premix is exactly 2% Motul 510 and premium non ethanol gas.

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Hooked
Joined: 13 Dec 2014
Posts: 198
Location: Ohio USA
Sun Sep 23, 2018 4:53 pm quote
The 100 Sport jetting should be fine, even with the "performance" pipe. Everybody over jets not realizing a proper tuned pipe actually puts un-burned fuel back into the cylinder via the exhaust port.

For what that's worth.

If you are just putting around town you may need to go back to a 72 main jet. And a 42 idle would not be unreasonable...
Hooked
‘64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Mon Sep 24, 2018 1:56 am quote
Still more interesting finds. 19/19 slipped strait over the intake manifold for the 16/16 with no sleeve.
Ordered manifold and sleeve to fit 100 Sport barrel so with rejet all should be good.

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Veni, Vidi, Posti
a herd of easy shifty rats
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 6637
Location: seattle/athens
Mon Sep 24, 2018 7:22 am quote
That's a 19/19 manifold, carb would be loose as hell on the original 16 manifold. As I told you long ago, I included the original 16 sleeve which I think you could bore or drill out to fit the 19 manifold, or just get a 19 sleeve.
Hooked
‘64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Mon Sep 24, 2018 9:18 am quote
V oodoo
This whole caretaker of Elena is a slow learning exercise for me. I go thru the system diagrams in the parts book I down loaded and pour thru the downloaded owners manual then see how the pieces fit together. When I find anything that doesn’t match the drawings I try to figure it out then ask a question. It appears that clamping the carb to the manifold works just as well as the sleeve, maybe better.
I now need to decide if I want to attempt to use a sleeve since I am finding a lot of references to it being a source of air leaks.
I have a new bellows to install so just need to figure it all out.
I will become proficient eventually
Veni, Vidi, Posti
a herd of easy shifty rats
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 6637
Location: seattle/athens
Mon Sep 24, 2018 11:58 am quote
You need a sleeve in order to use the bellows. If you think you've been having fun up to now, wait until it's time to install the bellows. The small end is a tight stretch fit over the sleeve. The sleeve is usually locked to the manifold w/ a little ring. I leave the ring out to make assembly a lot easier and the sleeve can't go anywhere anyway. If you choose to use the sleeve lock ring, the problem can be getting the flanged end of the bellows properly onto the hole in the frame all the way around. There's little room to work & impossible to see both sides to know if it's going on right.

I install the sleeve and bellows into the frame first, before swinging the motor up and guiding the manifold into the sleeve. You need to rotate the sleeve until the notches line up w/ the tabs on the manifold before the sleeve can go all the way back as it should. But maybe somebody knows a better trick to install the damn bellows.
Hooked
‘64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Thu Sep 27, 2018 1:37 pm quote
Seat and tire cover finished just what I wanted for her.

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Suzy at Cheeky Seats does wonderful work.

Hooked
GTS 300 Super
Joined: 13 Sep 2017
Posts: 469
Location: West Sacramento, CA
Thu Sep 27, 2018 2:21 pm quote
exmayor wrote:
Seat and tire cover finished just what I wanted for her.
LOVE THESE! Great subtle addition
Hooked
2018 GTS 300 sei giorni, 2012 LXV 125ie and V90
Joined: 11 Mar 2018
Posts: 114
Location: Eternal Spring Country/Guatemala
Fri Sep 28, 2018 2:29 pm quote
exmayor wrote:
Seat and tire cover finished just what I wanted for her.
Wow, they are amazing!
Hooked
1964 GS160, 1974 Rally 200, 1966 90ss
Joined: 08 Sep 2011
Posts: 168

Sun Sep 30, 2018 12:04 pm quote
Hey exmayor, did you get that brake pedal repaired or order a new one? I ran into the exact same thing.

Was there any trick to removing the pedal from the assembly? My bolt is pretty frozen and the head is stripped. Someone has been here before causing mischief.
Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1132

Sun Sep 30, 2018 12:52 pm quote
gmontag wrote:
Hey exmayor, did you get that brake pedal repaired or order a new one? I ran into the exact same thing.

This is to both gmontag and exmayor...
It would be a very simple fix to weld in a piece of alumimun. If you use that JB Weld crap (i'm not an epoxy will fix everything fan), it will crack off. Then when you go to fix it properly, there will be a bunch of gunk that will need to be cleaned out before it can be welded. A guy with a welder can fix it in less than a minute.
Hooked
‘64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Sun Sep 30, 2018 1:38 pm quote
gmontag

I may have found a good used pedal. Will know later this week. If not I’ll go to my friends machinist and have it repaired.
Found the larger part of the broken bit inside the tunnel.
My connecting pin is held in with a cotter key with a slotted end to align the holes.
Needs to be well greased when reassembled

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Piece of broken stop

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Slotted end

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Hooked
‘64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Tue Oct 02, 2018 8:03 am quote
It appears I found the problem with the jumpy speedo needle

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Hooked
‘64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Tue Oct 02, 2018 1:52 pm quote
Found a little more time to work on her today.
Removed the front suspension to clean it up and inspect everything.
The lower shock bushing is frozen to the mount so I drilled around the rubber bushing till it would pull loose.
The o rings were gone from the needle bearings on the pivot while there is still some grease inside, it is pretty hard and some of the needle bearings are missing.
The spindle is well lubed but the retaining nut is rounded on the points. I tried tapping it around with a small cold chisel but no deal. They are off to a machinist friend to be done right. Trying to practice restraint and not go for a bigger hammer.
The headset bearings are really dry but the races are fine with no dimples.
Have all new bearings, seals and o rings on order
Will need to cut the head off of the fender mounting screw. Sprayed it down with pb blaster but no luck. The slot is pretty bad anyway.

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Front end out so I can polish behind the fender.

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It apart!

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These guys have seen better days

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Stopped before doing damage to the threads

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Dry but races ok

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A good opportunity to really polish on the fender

Hooked
1964 GS160, 1974 Rally 200, 1966 90ss
Joined: 08 Sep 2011
Posts: 168

Tue Oct 02, 2018 2:23 pm quote
Man, I feel like we're fighting the same battles.

Front brake pedal - check
Front shock - check
Fender screw - check

Be smarter than me. When you cut it, be careful you don't do this:

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Hooked
‘64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Tue Oct 02, 2018 2:45 pm quote
gmontag
Found a replacement from Jonathan Gick at Gickspeed (317) 985-9589. Give him a call he may have another.
Going to use my housing and switch and polish the pedal before it goes back in.
Thanks for the heads up on the fender screw. I will try to go easy with the Dremel

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