Lady in Red
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Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Wed Oct 03, 2018 10:23 am quote
Some small successes today.
Was able to get the front fender screw out without any major damage. Used the dremel to cut down to the washer in three places on 1 /2 of the head. Took a small cold chisel to tap across it to and it popped off giving me access to cut a horizontal slice in the rest of the head on top of the washer. A few light taps with a punch and it popped apart.

Cut some slices in the bushing that was stuck on the lower shock mount. It popped apart ok and the mount will clean up well with some light sanding.

Took another look at the retaining nut on the hub and it is going off to the machinist.

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Hooked
Joined: 13 Dec 2014
Posts: 198
Location: Ohio USA
Wed Oct 03, 2018 4:15 pm quote
There should be a fiber/rubber spacer washer between the fender and fork, don't lose it.

99335 in the parts diagram.

The bronze/oilite bushing 57892 is part of the shock, assuming you're replacing that as an assembly.

Download the PDF of this: http://www.scooterhelp.com/serial/V5A1T.V5SA1T.V9A1T.parts.html

You don't need a special tool to remove the speedo drive/axle retaining nut, but it is LEFT HAND THREAD = Righty loosey, lefty tighty. The small bearing retainer does require a special tool T0030631, but if the bearing is good you can just flush and regrease, you have access from both sides once the axle is removed, and the larger bearing is easily tapped out.

Here's the service station manual:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dn5vnn7ro7jrs4g

It is missing pages 7 to 11, unfortunately. Those have the ignition timing specifications for the various models. Fortunately those are also in the owner's handbooks.

Carry on.
Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Thu Oct 04, 2018 3:33 am quote
vma1racer
Thank you for the link. That is one manual I didnít have.
Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Thu Oct 04, 2018 9:23 am quote
The license finally came. Nice red numbers and letters to match her paint. Lucky sheís red.
It was a totally self inflicted problem with the nut on the front hub. Made a flawed assumption it was right hand thread before thinking it thru. Had I considered the direction of the hub rotation might not have screwed it up.
Thanks to vma1racer for the heads up.

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Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Thu Oct 04, 2018 10:29 am quote
Somewhere in Elenaís past someone thought it was a great idea to paint the sides of her tank blue and the top black. There is red paint under all that. Is there a way remove the paint without destroying the red or will I need to strip it and start over. Even though there will be scratches my preference is to keep it original. I am out of my depth on paint.

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Ossessionato
1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 4253
Location: So Cal
Thu Oct 04, 2018 1:04 pm quote
Depends on the black paint ... what type it is, how it was applied, what's under it. I'd start with a mild stripper and a cloth and see how easily you can rub it off. The original factory Vespa paint is pretty sturdy and normally won't come off even if exposed to a solvent for a short time. Keep in mind the tank was probably painted because it was scuffed and peeling, so if you're going to strip the black off you should probably plan on respraying it.

Good luck.
Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Thu Oct 04, 2018 1:13 pm quote
SoCalGuy
I think we have some of that citrus orange striper we have used on furniture. Iíll try a bit of it and see what happens.
Hooked
1964 GS160, 1974 Rally 200, 1966 90ss
Joined: 08 Sep 2011
Posts: 168

Thu Oct 04, 2018 1:40 pm quote
exmayor wrote:
SoCalGuy
I think we have some of that citrus orange striper we have used on furniture. Iíll try a bit of it and see what happens.
Citrus strip for 15-20 minutes. Soft plastic scrubbing brush.

I'd use the brand name, orange "Citristrip". I used some yellow citrus strip once and it messed up the paint.

EDIT: BTW, I pulled my tank today and sent it off to get the inside chemical stripped.
Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Thu Oct 04, 2018 1:48 pm quote
Put the stripper on top of tank and brought up a small patch of blue. It appears that the top had a coat or two of spraycan blue and the top got what looks like a brush coat of black.
Did a little light sanding with 400 wet and the tank was clearly red at its beginning. I have some 600 and 1000 wet so will try to carefully work my way down. May try the stripper for longer on the black.

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Like peeling an onion

Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Thu Oct 04, 2018 1:58 pm quote
gmontag
Thanks for the method just need to be a little more bold. Fortunatly my tank is really clean inside.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
a herd of easy shifty rats
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 6637
Location: seattle/athens
Thu Oct 04, 2018 2:53 pm quote
A friend stripped rattlecan paint off an old AllState using graffiti remover. He broke thru the original baby blue in a few places and exposed the same tan primer that I see on your gas tank. I think he got a pretty good result and confirms that the original paint can be tough as nails.


Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Thu Oct 04, 2018 2:58 pm quote
V oodoo
Thanks for the idea. Amazon has a spray on product from goof off that Iíll give a try
Hooked
59" Allstate
Joined: 03 Aug 2018
Posts: 104
Location: TC Florida
Thu Oct 04, 2018 3:47 pm quote
Goof Off will definitely remove spray paint. I used it to remove the spray paint off the metal parts of my red scooter. To remove the paint off the rubber parts I used Awesome cleaner, Its very similar to simple green.

As nice as your scooter is you might want to have a automotive paint supplier or your local body shop color match the red of your scooter. If you dont have access to a spray gun you could probably get good results with a Preval Sprayer.
Hooked
Joined: 13 Dec 2014
Posts: 198
Location: Ohio USA
Thu Oct 04, 2018 3:51 pm quote
exmayor wrote:
It was a totally self inflicted problem with the nut on the front hub. Made a flawed assumption it was right hand thread before thinking it thru. Had I considered the direction of the hub rotation might not have screwed it up.
Thanks to vma1racer for the heads up.
Did you actually ruin the left hand thread nut? It's hard to tell from the photograph...

A nice fresh Snap-on flank drive 6 point socket on the gun in the correct direction might just get that right off.

Keep up the good work, but don't go too far.
Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Sat Oct 06, 2018 10:28 am quote
The machinist was able to get the nut/pinion off with no further damage. Cleaned up the threads with a small triangular file and they look fine.
Now wanting to remove the bearings and after reading thru my Haynes manual the only instructions are for the later two piece spindle.
The parts book shows a retainer for the small bearing that is behind the large bearing and donít know if it is threaded or not. If itís threaded does it require a special tool or could I fabricate something from some steel flat stock?
Have removed the circlclip in front of the large bearing but want to know the safest way to remove it. Should I heat the housing and then tap it out with a drift.
Donít want to do any damage.
The reason for stripping the housing is to remove the rust and refinish as well as flush it completely out to be certain there are no chips from my ham fisted attempt to remove the speedo pinion nut.
Brake shoes are off now and the opening on the back side for the rubber plug is cleaned up.

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Hooked
Joined: 13 Dec 2014
Posts: 198
Location: Ohio USA
Sat Oct 06, 2018 11:24 am quote
Read the service station manual. It shows the procedure for the one piece stub axle.

Look at page 81. You can drift the large bearing out if you don't have the T0021467 or equivalent bearing puller. The small bearing is retained by a threaded ring which will require the special tool T0030631 as I mentioned before in a previous reply ^^^. I also previously recommended leaving that bearing in place unless it's obviously bad... In fact, unless you got a bunch of trash in the bearings during your failed attempt to remove the LHT nut, I'd suggest just cleaning and re lubricating the bearings in situ.

Why make things more difficult?
Veni, Vidi, Posti
a herd of easy shifty rats
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 6637
Location: seattle/athens
Sat Oct 06, 2018 1:09 pm quote
I'd agree, unless the bearings are notchy or bumpy or noisy when you spin them, you can flush and clean them then repack w/ grease. Just mask well when you repaint. When assembled and the front wheel is off the ground, you can easily tell how the bearings are doing by both checking for any play and spinning the wheel and listening.
Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Sat Oct 06, 2018 1:19 pm quote
vma1racer
Thanks. I think Iíll drop the assembly into the vinegar bath for a few days to soften the rust, clean it up and then flush out the bearings before refinishing. Repack the bearings snap in the circlip and a fresh seal and call it good
V oodoo
Have had a lot of practice masking things lately. Found that the small xacto knife is really handy.
If it warmes up Monday I have both brake drums the other wheel and a number of other bits.
Both the fork and the front fender came up really well with polishing and waxing.
Now on to cleaning up the tank.
Been cold and wet outside so will wait until Monday when it should be warmer.

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Far easier to polish so the parts when she is apart.

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The day she arrived

Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Sun Oct 07, 2018 7:27 am quote
The suspension parts are almost all here.
Adjustable front and rear shocks with new rubber bushings. Crimaz anti dive front suspension bracket. Will replace original brake shoes with Newfren AntiAQUA slotted shoes front and rear to maximize the stopping power.

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Not my brakes but they seem to be the way to go

Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Mon Oct 08, 2018 12:00 pm quote
Took advantage of a warm dry day in the 70ís to get some more parts refinished and cleaned up the backing plate (brake jaw support disk) the bottom of which looks like sometime in her past she was drug somewhere she didnít want to go.
The hubs, brake drums and wheel are looking ok.
I know most of these parts are buried out of sight but Iíll know that everything has been attended to and wonít be a potential site for rust in the future.

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I find this damage strange since there are no marks on the brake drum or on the bottom of the motor case and rather than a break it appears to be ground down roughly like road rash

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Hooked
Joined: 13 Dec 2014
Posts: 198
Location: Ohio USA
Mon Oct 08, 2018 1:46 pm quote
Someone broke that trying to pry the drum off...maybe without removing the wheel alignment stud. Look for dick marks on the backside of the drum.
Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Mon Oct 08, 2018 1:50 pm quote
vma1racer
Thanks. It looked rather strange an thankfully just the lip is broken. The drum taped off easily with a small plastic faced hammer.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
a herd of easy shifty rats
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 6637
Location: seattle/athens
Mon Oct 08, 2018 3:02 pm quote
vma1racer wrote:
Someone broke that trying to pry the drum off...maybe without removing the wheel alignment stud. Look for dick marks on the backside of the drum.
I suspect that you are right. Forgot the alignment stud or forgot to back off the brake adjustment. It came to me non op after sitting for 10 years w/several minor problems & I never replaced that backing plate. As far as I know, the motor's never been split and is likely running the original rings.


Drain the gear oil first, then remove those 3 nuts to pull the backing plate so you can easily clean behind.
Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Mon Oct 08, 2018 3:07 pm quote
V oodoo
Thatís all done. Drained it just after removing. Pulled the plate and cleaned it well then gave it a rub down with 0000 steel wool and simichrome polish. Not shiny but removed all the oxidation.
Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Tue Oct 09, 2018 2:02 pm quote
Before and after.
2 days in a pail of white vinegar then into the utility sink with hot water, Dawn and a stiff wire brush.
Elena continues to surprise me how tough she is. Used the left over VHT wheel paint and clear coat for the silver and VHT frame and rollbar paint for the black. Once cured they are really tough finishes.

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Addicted
2008 GTS 250, 1979 P200E
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 829
Location: Florence, OR
Tue Oct 09, 2018 8:35 pm quote
Very nice! She's looking good! I'm excited to see what Gick is going to do with the engine. I've seen some of his work on FB - very nice.
Hooked
Joined: 13 Dec 2014
Posts: 198
Location: Ohio USA
Wed Oct 10, 2018 10:13 am quote
Be sure to polish both of those pivot points to a shiny finish, and file off any high spots left by cutting off the shock bushing. Not sure that one actually matters when using the Crimaz "upper shock mount bushing stress kit".

Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Wed Oct 10, 2018 10:20 am quote
Just picked up some emery cloth this morning to start polishing pivot pin. Will then use 400, 600 and 1000. Will get use either pvc or copper tube to cover shock pin and paint silver. Crimaz bolts solidly to both pins.
Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Fri Oct 12, 2018 11:24 am quote
Jonathan at Gickspeed sent me a brake pedal to replace the one with the broken switch stop.
A little wire brushing some sanding and a quick polish with MAAS paste and 00 steel wool made it very presentable. V oodoo had put a new rubber pad on the old one so it will be good
Shipped the motor off to Gickspeed this morning so there will be progress on that front in a few weeks.

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Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Tue Oct 16, 2018 1:03 pm quote
Have this badge on the left side of the leggy that I can't identify. Before going thru V oodoo's care Elena was originally purchased in Eugene OR in 1967 then moved to a second owner in southern Washington from 1976 thru 2014.
It is attached with the domed disk on the inside of the leggy which has no holes or rivet heads.

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Hooked
1964 GS160, 1974 Rally 200, 1966 90ss
Joined: 08 Sep 2011
Posts: 168

Tue Oct 16, 2018 3:15 pm quote
Shriners?
Masons?
Satanic Mods?
Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Tue Oct 16, 2018 3:19 pm quote
gmontag
I like answer 3.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
a herd of easy shifty rats
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 6637
Location: seattle/athens
Tue Oct 16, 2018 3:19 pm quote
And I had a hole in the legshield to deal with. Weld it? No. Bondo? Definitely not. License plate screw w/ plastic reflector jewel? Considered & rejected. So I went thru my collection of random trinkets and spotted this. Mystery N w/ a star, hell yes! It's a foundry ID tag, so the foundry knows if they made a certain casting. Gets stuck on the customer pattern when it arrives and removed when the patterns are returned. This one is from Northstar Casteel Products in Seattle and I painted the background red because Elena asked nicely



It and the chrome dome are glued on w/ ShoeGoo so if must be, you may safely but gently pry them off and peel off any glue residue to fully restore the original hole w/ no paint damage(not sure what happened around the dome.... ). Then use ShoeGoo if you decide to reinstall them or any other trinket that you prefer(then send me back the Nstar plz). With Elena's approval of course.
Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 130
Location: Madison WI
Tue Oct 16, 2018 3:21 pm quote
V voodoo
Thanks It stays put was just curious. Well played repair.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
a herd of easy shifty rats
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 6637
Location: seattle/athens
Tue Oct 16, 2018 3:30 pm quote
Thanks, I don't think you would have liked so much the orphan faux emerald cuff link I briefly considered before I found the star.
Hooked
Joined: 13 Dec 2014
Posts: 198
Location: Ohio USA
Tue Oct 16, 2018 8:30 pm quote
37 holes... yet all the Vigano accessories are clamp-on... I wish I only had one stray hole to deal with.

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I wish I had whatever was in these holes...

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Found a set of crusty Vigano hubcaps to complete the project.

Veni, Vidi, Posti
a herd of easy shifty rats
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 6637
Location: seattle/athens
Wed Oct 17, 2018 1:08 am quote
37 holes, that's a lot but at least nobody cut holes in it front and back to install P style turn signals. Then more holes to mount a lovely plastic P horncast.

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pop rivet patched the back holes

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ShoeGoo'd on small red glass lenses

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pop riveted patches in front too and covered w/ decals plus removed plastic horncast

Hooked
Honda elite
Joined: 19 Jun 2007
Posts: 307
Location: California
Wed Oct 17, 2018 5:56 pm quote
V oodoo wrote:
37 holes, that's a lot but at least nobody cut holes in it front and back to install P style turn signals. Then more holes to mount a lovely plastic P horncast.
nice work I can appreciate those stickers too especially the torco racing oil!
Addicted
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: 16 Apr 2011
Posts: 977
Location: Siam
Thu Oct 18, 2018 3:20 am quote
exmayor wrote:
The license finally came. Nice red numbers and letters to match her paint. Lucky sheís red.
It was a totally self inflicted problem with the nut on the front hub. Made a flawed assumption it was right hand thread before thinking it thru. Had I considered the direction of the hub rotation might not have screwed it up.
Thanks to vma1racer for the heads up.
Are the allen head bolts on the license plate temporary? God, I hope so.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
a herd of easy shifty rats
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 6637
Location: seattle/athens
Thu Oct 18, 2018 5:21 am quote
Ouch! I replaced my centerstand & brake pedal bolts w/ similar in stainless on my first USA bike. I was so proud!

Nothing wrong w/ a little reversible customization if you're not a serious collector. We were talking extra holes in the leggy and guess who closed up two from a P horncast w/ a couple of Allen bolts, one of them a bit rusty?

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