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I'm needing to replace a motor and transmission but I don't know what to look for or what I can simply bolt on and go! I've seen alot of motors from the 2000's models but I doubt that be a direct swap? Please any insight is much appreciated
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Molto Verboso
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I've never heard of an ss150

Are you referring to one of these?

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Quit possibly looks very similar and says "super" on the front! It's my father's scooter that I'm hoping to breath new life into. I just wanna know what motors I can do a direct motor swap with and where to track one down! Thanks
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areabaylove wrote:
Quit possibly looks very similar and says "super" on the front! It's my father's scooter that I'm hoping to breath new life into. I just wanna know what motors I can do a direct motor swap with and where to track one down! Thanks
You can "bolt on and go" with either a LML Stella 150, P125, P150, or a P200. All of those engines are also very easy to tune up for more power and speed if that's your thing. You'll also have to do some additional wiring depending upon just which stator and ignition you use. The Stella engine also has an electric start (so do some of the PX150 and 200 cases). If you're all about converting over to a E-start, that is possible too. If a E-starter isn't your thing, you can just remove it.
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Is there a cut off year? On eBay I see alot of motors from 2000 to 2012. With a this being said where's a good place to buy used or new? Thanks again
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iv just got my project 150 super into a usable state..........only took a fork rebuild, engine swap and total rewire Laughing emoticon

as above, plently of engines will fit in, wiring it to the existing loom may be an issue (rewiring the scooter with a 12v loom was a piece of cake tho tbh and my old wiring was rotten!!!)

the other thing to consider is gearing, i expect your scooter has 8" wheels so you have to either convert new engine to that or convert fork to 10"..... i choose the latter and just used one of those conversion wheels for now until i can gather all the parts i need to do the job properly,

took longer than id hoped but it really has made the ole thing much happier at high (lol!!) cruising speeds

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areabaylove wrote:
Is there a cut off year? On eBay I see alot of motors from 2000 to 2012. With a this being said where's a good place to buy used or new? Thanks again
Supply for an engine all depends upon just what part of the world you are located in.
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If you are in the SF Bay area, check here to see what's on the market, or post up a motor wanted ad. http://scoot.net/classifieds/ I'd avoid an eBay motor as in some cases, I understand that they aren't made as well.

But more important, what's the deal with the original motor? Busted case? If not, maybe better to rebuild it or have it done for you. You'll make as much or more power depending on your budget and what parts you choose and likely be more reliable as well as more valuable if you ever sold it. Also, it's already geared right for your 8" wheels(which I hope you will decide to keep).
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areabaylove wrote:
Is there a cut off year? On eBay I see alot of motors from 2000 to 2012. With a this being said where's a good place to buy used or new? Thanks again
Watch out for cheapo "lml" engines on ebay... I've seen some bullshit 3rd party engines on there put together shoddily with sub-par components
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69chris wrote:
the other thing to consider is gearing, i expect your scooter has 8" wheels so you have to either convert new engine to that or convert fork to 10"..... i choose the latter and just used one of those conversion wheels for now until i can gather all the parts i need to do the job properly,
I put a 8" conversion kit on an LML motor parted out of a Stella. You can upgear it a little bit by just upping the clutch from a 21t to a 23t. You'll get decent top speed doing that, probably in the neighborhood of 55mph, which will be plenty unless you're going to upgrade all the suspension, too.
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glad to see u have a shed for 2 scooter Brother Jim

today i play the stance in my pink vespa by using smallie front and rear shock so that folks here wont told me to wear a high heels everytime they see how tall my vespa compare to me

i know it funny so do smile fore and have a nice day to you all.. cheer
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i know i need to cut the centerstand
i know i need to cut the centerstand
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this is new as i missplace my post but its still related as u can see i put a p series engine in a sprint/super frame

so sorry i am not usee with my wife snartphone

hope that help and cheer
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I too would want to know why replace the engine?
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Hoe bout some photos to start with (overall & engine etc... More th easier & letting us know what you perceive to be wrong & in need of a replacement engine
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Thanks folks I really appreciate the info. Only reason I wanna just buy another motor is cause I have far far to many projects already and would love to just swap something that's good to go!
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Unless you can find a known good 2-port Super motor the closest to what you're looking for would be this

https://www.scooterworks.com/Engine-150-cc-non-injected-5-port-no-electric-start-P1986.aspx

But it's still not gonna be plug n play...

If you're set on keeping it rolling on 8's you'll need to replace the rear wheel, hub/drum, and brake shoes, as well as split the cases and swap out the stock lml gearstak with a super gearstack. You may be able to use the gearstack from the stock motor depending on what kinda wear
you have in the slots where the cruciform engages. Personally I'd go with new parts for a new engine.

If you're down to roll 10's you'll be swapping out the front hub/drum, shoes, and wheel.

In either of these scenarios you'll also be doing some minor fiddling with the wiring off the stator. This guy here will make that an even simpler affair:

https://www.scooterworks.com/Electronic-Ignition-Kit-Harness-P6445.aspx

If i was in your position I'd go with the 10's as I'm not a huge fan of 8's (squirrelly in the twistys), and a new gearstack'll cost ya a couple hundred bucks last time i checked.

Hope this helps.

-Mac
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PM me before you toss that old one.
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Oh well if u wanna know the motor had a super high idle indicatinging air getting into motor some how. I re torqued the head and carb but that wasn't it. The person I sent it to spent a whole day trying to sort it out but failed, I dunno what he was fiddling with. If I were to go the rebuild route, should I tear it completely down and replace all the seals? What else or suggestions please, thanks for your genuine curiosity!!!!
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It's possible air could be leaking past your airbox... Easy way to check that is spray carb cleaner around the base while the motor is running. If the revs jump, bingo.

Other than that, likely your seals.

You don't need to tear it completely down... Just split cases and pull the crank... You can do it in an evening
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areabaylove wrote:
Oh well if u wanna know the motor had a super high idle indicatinging air getting into motor some how. I re torqued the head and carb but that wasn't it. The person I sent it to spent a whole day trying to sort it out but failed, I dunno what he was fiddling with. If I were to go the rebuild route, should I tear it completely down and replace all the seals? What else or suggestions please, thanks for your genuine curiosity!!!!
Unless you find a recently rebuilt engine, i would reccomend giving it a thorough looks see. Some of the wear items are clutch, seals, bearings, shift cross, gears, cush springs, ect...

Sometimes it might be better to just rebuild the engine you've got if you're fine with the current power output. The Stella has an EFL style transmission which is a bonus. Maybe finding a used 2005 PX150 engine? Those are pretty rock solid reliable, and can easily last for thousands of miles before any parts need replacing (except maybe a rouge seal?). A used PX150 engine might be hard to find in the US though.
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macgerk77 wrote:
You can do it in an evening
...and with two good arms, you could do it in even less time.



Speedy recovery Macgerk!
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Let's be honest here. That way some frustration might be avoided.

A novice who has never worked on a Vespa is *NOT* going to be able to pull the engine, split the cases, change the seals, reassemble (correctly), and get the engine back in over the course of an evening.

That said, if he (she?) takes it slow and easy and consults the many good videos available online as they go -- they *could* get the job done in a weekend.

Take it slow and easy -- in the end you'll find it's a pretty cheap job and the result will be satisfying.
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whodatschrome wrote:
macgerk77 wrote:
You can do it in an evening
...and with two good arms, you could do it in even less time.



Speedy recovery Macgerk!
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areabaylove wrote:
Oh well if u wanna know the motor had a super high idle indicatinging air getting into motor some how. I re torqued the head and carb but that wasn't it. The person I sent it to spent a whole day trying to sort it out but failed, I dunno what he was fiddling with. If I were to go the rebuild route, should I tear it completely down and replace all the seals? What else or suggestions please, thanks for your genuine curiosity!!!!
Simple things first: Do the carb cleaner/starter fluid test to see if it's NOT the seals.

You'll probably need to pull the motor anyway, rebuild old or install new. Undoing the cables is the biggest chore, can be a headache if the ends are a mess. Cut & replace if that's what you find. Then just 2 bolts & a few wires.

Now see what you have and go from there. It's not too hard to pressure test the case to diagnose your seals, good recent thread here: 1974 sprint engine pressure test and rebuild

It seems to me that you need to first decide if you'd like to keep the 8" wheels or convert to 10" assuming you change motors because there are roughly zero fresh new 8" motors available as far as I know. Then you'd need a complete fork & hub for 10" to do it right and have proper braking. Starts adding up...

But how would you like to use the bike? For local sub 50 MPH running around, stock motor & 8" tires are awesome, they feel more nimble and you're closer to the ground. For longer distances at higher speeds and touring, many people prefer 10" and they are obviously better on rougher roads. If you like the original 8" tires but want or need a fresh motor, then gearing is the problem as mentioned and it's solved w/ even more cash.

If it was me, I'd stay 8" original, especially if the bike is in nice condition, and rebuild the old motor w/ a 20/20 carb, decent pipe and maybe a mild 166 kit. That should push you well past 50, but get fresh tires and probably better shocks no matter what you do. And I'd agree w/pemkt, I've done this and I'd want a whole weekend. A) Something usually causes a problem and B) It's usually not how fast you can do it, it's how good you can do it.

Now then, ahem, let's see this Dad's Olde Vespa that you've got your mitts on. Eyelashes emoticon
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pemkt wrote:
A novice who has never worked on a Vespa is *NOT* going to be able to pull the engine, split the cases, change the seals, reassemble (correctly), and get the engine back in over the course of an evening.
As a TOTAL noob I was able to drop the motor, split the cases, replace fly side and clutch side seals and button the engine back up over the course of an (admittedly late) evening. Reassembled into the bike the next day. Dialed in and on the road the day after that.

This isn't me bragging, in fact the lion's share of the credit goes to the fine folks on this board who helped me out whenever i got stumped. Voodoo, you were one of them; thanks buddy! Vader was another. Damn i miss that guy Crying or Very sad emoticon

Don't sell yourself short, OP, this stuff is totally doable. And a whole lot of fun, to boot!
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