2006 Vespa LX50
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Enthusiast
1969 Sprint 2008 LX150 2006 LX50
Joined: 25 Feb 2017
Posts: 66
Location: Hawaii
Tue Nov 27, 2018 3:31 pm quote
Hi

I just took out of storage a low mileage 2006 LX50. Couldn't get to start. Cleaned the carburetor jets. Hooked back up and got to start at a super low idle. Once I increase gas it stalls out. It will do the very low idle for a minute or two, before it cuts out. Am I missing a vacuum line or something. I overflowed the gas tank when I added gas. Other than that Not sure what to do.


Thanks in advance,
Enthusiast
1969 Sprint 2008 LX150 2006 LX50
Joined: 25 Feb 2017
Posts: 66
Location: Hawaii
Tue Nov 27, 2018 4:28 pm quote
OK I got it to idle without cutting out. Once I give it a little gas it increases RPM a touch then starts to cut out. Could I have re-clogged my jets after adding the new gas?

There is a port on the left top of the carburetor that isn't connected to anything. When I put my finger tip to clog it, there is not difference in performance.

There's another port in the bottom left center of the carburetor that I attached, what looks like a drain of some sort. It leads to the ground near the overflow drain.

I feel like it's something simple to correct.
Hooked
2006 LX150 (carbed) | 2007 GT200
Joined: 29 Jun 2016
Posts: 481
Location: Toronto
Tue Nov 27, 2018 4:58 pm quote
Congrats on getting it going (mostly)! Do you know when it was last running well?

Sounds to me like a carb passage is still clogged. Did you unscrew the jets and verify you can see light passing through the openings? Given the age and low use, you may need to try a few times before it's really clean.

Assuming the lx50 is similar to 150, there should be a vacuum line from just in front of the carb to back to the fuel tap. Is this in place and not cracked? Without it, fuel will not flow properly and will be especially problematic (stall out) at higher rpm.

From your description, I think the upper opening is for the evap emissions connection (shouldn't affect running if it's disconnected, but you would have to also cap off some other lines to completely disconnect this system). The other one sounds like the float bowl drain (there is usually a short hose to the ground, but again won't affect running).

Edit - you might also want to open the top of the carb and verify the slide diaphragm us intact and not cracked from age. If damaged, this would also cause running problems.
Enthusiast
1969 Sprint 2008 LX150 2006 LX50
Joined: 25 Feb 2017
Posts: 66
Location: Hawaii
Tue Nov 27, 2018 6:16 pm quote
Brilliant Berto Worked like a charm. I changed that Vacuum Fuel tap hose. I don't think that did it though. Then, re-cleaned the carburetor jets and it's getting RPM's now. Now I have to just break it in It only has 55 miles on it.

Thank you.
Hooked
2016 LXV 150 ie, 2009 GTS Super, 1978 Vespa P125
Joined: 06 Jul 2016
Posts: 324
Location: central Illinois USA
Tue Nov 27, 2018 7:20 pm quote
I donít think this scoot really exists UNLESS you post a photo for all us us to enjoy! and since itís cold, ugly winter in Illinois, make it a really warm, sunny photo, please! And enjoy the scoot.
Addicted
lx 50
Joined: 09 Oct 2017
Posts: 563
Location: Brighton
Tue Nov 27, 2018 11:15 pm quote
A 12 year old scooter with 55 miles might have problems especially if itís just come out of long term storage.

Jets cost pence so Iíd get new ones.
Hoses again replace.

The bottom hose is for draining the carb once removed....thereís a tap screw next to it.

Enjoy it LX50ís are great fun!!!
Addicted
lx 50
Joined: 09 Oct 2017
Posts: 563
Location: Brighton
Tue Nov 27, 2018 11:16 pm quote
It could also be the auto choke.

Thatís the unit on top of the carb with the wires going to it.
Hooked
2006 LX 50
Joined: 16 Jun 2017
Posts: 308
Location: Warren MI
Wed Nov 28, 2018 5:45 am quote
The 2006 LX 50 does not have any hose connected to the float bowl vent. Do not plug it, but you can run another hose down to the ground, in case the float gets stuck and you don't want fuel running over the top of your hot engine.

I'm sure the issue you had was inside the carb, and the last cleaning did the trick. However don't be surprised if the issue comes back, and another cleaning is in order. It might be worth investing in a cheap ultrasonic cleaner to make sure you get it really clean. It's cheaper than a new carb, and with 50 miles on the clock there's no wear inside the carb, and replacing would be a waste of money.

I would suggest to replace both the fuel and vacuums hose from the fuel tap, and use transparent fuel line. That way the next time you have an issue you can quickly see if the fuel line has fuel present, and the vacuum line does not.

If you want to make it faster, I've done quite a bit to my LX 50, and can help. Please post pics!!
Enthusiast
1969 Sprint 2008 LX150 2006 LX50
Joined: 25 Feb 2017
Posts: 66
Location: Hawaii
Wed Nov 28, 2018 3:46 pm quote
Yes it's been in storage after I bought it used with just a few miles on it.

OK I took her for a short spin around our loop Topped out at about 22 mph. Stalled at the 1 1/2 mile point. wouldn't start again for about 6-7 minutes. Then started and topped out faster + 5 mph or so? Hit some hills and it stalled out again. repeated this stalling 2 other times on incline. ( restarted after resting a few minutes -cooling) Like it heats up or gets some sort of vapor lock? Had it happen once on another LX 50 and LX150 before. Only seemed to happen only once on those though. Maybe a breaking in period.

2006_3114.JPG

2006_4113.JPG

2006_10117.JPG

Hooked
2016 LXV 150 ie, 2009 GTS Super, 1978 Vespa P125
Joined: 06 Jul 2016
Posts: 324
Location: central Illinois USA
Wed Nov 28, 2018 5:07 pm quote
Oh, ya!! Love that color, and the green growing stuff and the flowersósure beats my ice, snow and below freezing temps!!! You just brightened my day. And people here who are far better mechanics than me will help you get this baby in awesome running condition
Hooked
2006 LX150 (carbed) | 2007 GT200
Joined: 29 Jun 2016
Posts: 481
Location: Toronto
Wed Nov 28, 2018 5:34 pm quote
You're not using 10 year old gas, are you?

You could tell if it's vapor lock by opening the gas cap when it's stalled and listening carefully for a whoosh of air (there shouldn't be one unless there's a vapor lock issue).

I had stalling problems caused by valves out if adjustment, but I can't imagine that's a problem on a bike with 50 miles.
Enthusiast
1969 Sprint 2008 LX150 2006 LX50
Joined: 25 Feb 2017
Posts: 66
Location: Hawaii
Wed Nov 28, 2018 6:33 pm quote
Thanks I'll listen for that wooshing sound. No, the gas was replaced . Although there maybe remnants of old gas in the system. I read from another post, someone mentioned diaphragm on top of the carburetor may be cracked or misaligned. I'll check that also.

Thanks again

Jim
Hooked
2006 LX 50
Joined: 16 Jun 2017
Posts: 308
Location: Warren MI
Thu Nov 29, 2018 5:50 am quote
A yellow LX 50 in Hawaii? I'm trying to control my envy. Now on to your stalling issue. Does this sound familiar:

"Does your Vespa LX 50 cut off after ten to twenty minutes and then start up and run briefly? We've seen a lot of Early US market Vespa LX 50 4T models that will run fine for about ten to twenty minutes then cut out, Wait a while, and they start again. We did the usual r&r fuel lines, check the fuel for contaminants, Poke a hole in the gas cap, check the compression, etc. All fine. Then we hooked up a device that will show if the plug is getting spark while you are riding, and found out that there were intermittent losses of spark. One guy had two Lx50s, and they both quit within about ten feet of each other after we rode the piss out of them. It's the sort of problem that often presents in bikes that have been sitting for years and are suddenly back on the road .
To diagnose this, you need to ride the bike for about ten miles, let it idle, ride it hard, let it idle, and so on until it dies. Then when you try to start it, it may start up and run briefly, then shut down again. It will start, run briefly, cut off, and then start, run, cut off sooner, then not start until it sits and cools down.
When this happens, switch out the CDI and that will usually solve the problem.
This is a tough problem to solve at home, because the only way to really diagnose it is to put in a known good cdi and see if that fixes it. Electrical parts purchases are final, the CDI is expensive, and if that's not the problem, you now own two good CDIs, and a Vespa that dies.
If the bike is idling rough and dying at stop signs right after it gets warm, it can also be an exhaust valve that is too tight, but that shows up a lot sooner than the intermittent CDI issue. "

I had the exact same issue. This fixed it:

https://scooterpartsco.com/lx-50/lx-50-electrical/cdi-coil-for-vespa-lx-50-piaggio-fly-50-s-50-unrestricted?zenid=547c74aa565c6c6b25da3b1215aa610d
Enthusiast
1969 Sprint 2008 LX150 2006 LX50
Joined: 25 Feb 2017
Posts: 66
Location: Hawaii
Thu Nov 29, 2018 11:02 am quote
Thanks Frank in brew. Is that part in the area next to the carburetor? The one with the plastic cap?
Hooked
GTS 300 Super
Joined: 13 Sep 2017
Posts: 469
Location: West Sacramento, CA
Thu Nov 29, 2018 12:34 pm quote
I know the 1st service is recommended at 300 miles but I'd think some fresh oil in there might not be a bad idea.

Also, Tires. Like the hoses, and knowing Hawai'i's weather. I could see that the tires might be cracked or unsafe for just sitting so long. Just a thought.
Enthusiast
1969 Sprint 2008 LX150 2006 LX50
Joined: 25 Feb 2017
Posts: 66
Location: Hawaii
Thu Nov 29, 2018 1:41 pm quote
Yea I'm going to change the oil today. Puzzling, the low power output I think I need to clean carburetor again. It only tops out at ( 23-25 mph on straightaways. Hills about 10 mph- Last LX 50, I could get up to 35 mph) I took it for a spin again Only stalled twice. That was when I almost stopped or rolled to an almost stop, toward the end of the 10 minute ride. Interesting though I noticed that cap that covers that electrical thing on top next to the carburetor. Looks like a spark plug cap . Half of it is melted. Maybe I attached it wrong. Or that part gets super-heated. The plot thickens

Thanks again.
Hooked
2006 LX 50
Joined: 16 Jun 2017
Posts: 308
Location: Warren MI
Thu Nov 29, 2018 3:34 pm quote
The coil is located in the left front of the engine compartment. Youíll see two studs with gold nuts coming up through the sheet metal holding the coil bracket.

When you order the replacement coil I would also order a size 78 main jet.

And if youíre really feeling sassy order the 5 gram Dr Pulley sliders.

098D1392-CECF-430B-B2CD-75FA65F0EDE8.jpeg

Hooked
2006 LX 50
Joined: 16 Jun 2017
Posts: 308
Location: Warren MI
Thu Nov 29, 2018 3:40 pm quote
traveler wrote:
Yea I'm going to change the oil today. Puzzling, the low power output I think I need to clean carburetor again. It only tops out at ( 23-25 mph on straightaways. Hills about 10 mph- Last LX 50, I could get up to 35 mph) I took it for a spin again Only stalled twice. That was when I almost stopped or rolled to an almost stop, toward the end of the 10 minute ride. Interesting though I noticed that cap that covers that electrical thing on top next to the carburetor. Looks like a spark plug cap . Half of it is melted. Maybe I attached it wrong. Or that part gets super-heated. The plot thickens

Thanks again.
My 2006 LX 50 stock would do 43 MPH on the speedometer, which was actually 37 MPH on the GPS.

That black plastic cap covers the electric choke. Thatís odd that it would get hot enough to melt. Maybe your electric choke is bad, but that would only cause cold start issues.
Hooked
2006 LX 50
Joined: 16 Jun 2017
Posts: 308
Location: Warren MI
Thu Nov 29, 2018 3:44 pm quote
Unless your choke is stuck partially closed...
Molto Verboso
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1996 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: 02 Aug 2015
Posts: 1184
Location: Veria, Greece
Thu Nov 29, 2018 4:24 pm quote
If you have the same CDIs as the ones we have in Europe, you could always derestrict the original, by cutting in a specific position. It's been discussed here before...

De-restrict a LX50?

On the 2nd photo I have added the correct location for a Kokusan CDI...

derestrict_141.jpg

CDI.jpg

Hooked
2006 LX 50
Joined: 16 Jun 2017
Posts: 308
Location: Warren MI
Thu Nov 29, 2018 4:38 pm quote
SaFiS wrote:
If you have the same CDIs as the ones we have in Europe, you could always derestrict the original, by cutting in a specific position. It's been discussed here before...

De-restrict a LX50?

On the 2nd photo I have added the correct location for a Kokusan CDI...
We donít have the restricted CDI in the US.
Enthusiast
1969 Sprint 2008 LX150 2006 LX50
Joined: 25 Feb 2017
Posts: 66
Location: Hawaii
Fri Nov 30, 2018 3:43 pm quote
Thanks everyone I took it for another 2-3 mile spin Only stalled out once, when I came to a stop at our gate. Had to cool? or whatever before it started again. Changed the oil and cleaned carbs again yesterday. Puzzling how the speed tops out at 25 mph on straightaways. Hills much slower. New noise/ailment. As its idling it makes a slight metallic tinkerbell rattle like noise. Not sure if normal or not.
Addicted
lx 50
Joined: 09 Oct 2017
Posts: 563
Location: Brighton
Sat Dec 01, 2018 12:54 am quote
Weíve talked about itís running issues and curing them.

Itís going to be one of the above plus itís a brand new engine that needs running carefully.

Once thatís done and any issues solved thatís when you can look at speed.

First job would be derestricting it. By removing a couple of parts placed on the scooter to limit its performance.

But honestly you should wait till itís run in.
Hooked
2006 LX 50
Joined: 16 Jun 2017
Posts: 308
Location: Warren MI
Sat Dec 01, 2018 1:32 pm quote
northernerbill wrote:
Weíve talked about itís running issues and curing them.

Itís going to be one of the above plus itís a brand new engine that needs running carefully.

Once thatís done and any issues solved thatís when you can look at speed.

First job would be derestricting it. By removing a couple of parts placed on the scooter to limit its performance.

But honestly you should wait till itís run in.
My 2006 US spec LX did not have any restrictions.
Enthusiast
1969 Sprint 2008 LX150 2006 LX50
Joined: 25 Feb 2017
Posts: 66
Location: Hawaii
Sat Dec 01, 2018 1:35 pm quote
Thanks Northern Bill

I'm going to change out the air filter today There's a vacuum hose that runs from the air filter and dumps out to the other side of the carb. When I plug that, it doesn't interfere with anything I can see at idle I'm going to plug, and take for a spin. I'll see if power is increased. I'm also reading about valve clearances.? I'll keep you posted.
Enthusiast
1969 Sprint 2008 LX150 2006 LX50
Joined: 25 Feb 2017
Posts: 66
Location: Hawaii
Tue Dec 04, 2018 4:30 pm quote
Well, back to the drawing board. Changed out the CDI ( pretty easy) Changed oil. Changed air filter. Changed fuel line. Cleaned carburetor twice. Took for a spin. Topped out at 24 or so on straightaways-5-10 on hills. Stalled and had to wait to restart several times. Maybe that diaphragm on top of the carburetor. It strikes me that it's a heating up, cutting off, as a engine protection or safety feature. I had a 911, the engine had a redline RPI engine cutoff feature.
Member
Ď04 ET4
Joined: 17 Oct 2018
Posts: 34
Location: Montgomery, TX
Tue Dec 04, 2018 7:57 pm quote
Not sure if yours has the evap emissions system or not, but I found a good YouTube video of a guy named Tim Tuttle for an ET4 evap system removal. Mine had been getting difficult to start and that solved it. Not really correlated to stalling when ran for 10 minutes, though. Hope you get it solved soon!
Hooked
2006 LX150 (carbed) | 2007 GT200
Joined: 29 Jun 2016
Posts: 481
Location: Toronto
Wed Dec 05, 2018 3:36 am quote
traveler wrote:
Well, back to the drawing board. Changed out the CDI ( pretty easy) Changed oil. Changed air filter. Changed fuel line. Cleaned carburetor twice. Took for a spin. Topped out at 24 or so on straightaways-5-10 on hills. Stalled and had to wait to restart several times. Maybe that diaphragm on top of the carburetor. It strikes me that it's a heating up, cutting off, as a engine protection or safety feature. I had a 911, the engine had a redline RPI engine cutoff feature.
That's really disappointing - sorry to hear it I really thought a new ignition coil / cdi would do it. Given the bike's age and intermittent nature if the problem, electrical seemed pretty likely.

I doubt if a cracked diaphragm would cause problems at temperature, and then clear once the bike cools a little. I would think it's more likely electrical, valves, or vacuum.

I've never heard any Vespa having red line protection (rather, I often hear people riding wide open throttle without problem). And certainly not one that would cut power without warning, and then lock out a restart.
Hooked
2006 LX 50
Joined: 16 Jun 2017
Posts: 308
Location: Warren MI
Wed Dec 05, 2018 11:52 am quote
traveler wrote:
Well, back to the drawing board. Changed out the CDI ( pretty easy) Changed oil. Changed air filter. Changed fuel line. Cleaned carburetor twice. Took for a spin. Topped out at 24 or so on straightaways-5-10 on hills. Stalled and had to wait to restart several times. Maybe that diaphragm on top of the carburetor. It strikes me that it's a heating up, cutting off, as a engine protection or safety feature. I had a 911, the engine had a redline RPI engine cutoff feature.
That's interesting. I'm surprised the CDI did not fix the stalling, but I do recall when I had that issue the scooter did not lack power. It simply cut out.

You mentioned the electric choke cover was melted. I'm now wondering if the choke is the problem. The way that works is when the engine is cold the choke closes. When the engine is started the stator sends current to the electric choke, and it opens slowly. I'm wondering of your choke is always partially closed, and when the scooter gets hot it slams shut for some reason. Do you have any up close photos of the melted choke?

Try unplugging the electric choke and see what happens after a long ride.
Enthusiast
1969 Sprint 2008 LX150 2006 LX50
Joined: 25 Feb 2017
Posts: 66
Location: Hawaii
Thu Dec 06, 2018 4:23 pm quote
I unplugged the choke I didn't take the whole thing off. just separated at the plastic connector. Same thing, rode well, then cut out. It's amazing how it cuts out in almost the same spots on the ride. Maybe a bad Spark plug. I'll replace tomorrow.
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lx 50
Joined: 09 Oct 2017
Posts: 563
Location: Brighton
Thu Dec 06, 2018 4:37 pm quote
The plastic bit is just a cover, follow the cable it leads to a plug inside a rubber tube
Addicted
lx 50
Joined: 09 Oct 2017
Posts: 563
Location: Brighton
Thu Dec 06, 2018 11:42 pm quote
Sorry mid-read your comment.....you did do that.

If the choke cover is melted, then at some point itís got extremely hot and if itís done that damage outside itís probably done something inside too.

Not an expensive item, Iíd be replacing whether it fixes the running issue or not......plus it might be the culprit!!
Enthusiast
1969 Sprint 2008 LX150 2006 LX50
Joined: 25 Feb 2017
Posts: 66
Location: Hawaii
Mon Dec 10, 2018 6:50 pm quote
Here's a picture of that melted choke Cap.

I replaced the the electric choke, and Spark plug. Before I could take for an extended ride, Now the Headlight Doesn't work. and idiot lights on dash don't work. The turn signals and break lights work. Only thing that lights up on the dash is the turn signal indicators, nothing else. I checked the # 10 fuse next to the battery That looked good.
Damn Italians. Any suggestions on the Headlight? Would the spark wire/coil that attaches to the Spark plug cause anything. It separated when I changed out the plug.. I think I reattached it properly though.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance

Cap.jpg

Veni, Vidi, Posti
Joined: 21 Feb 2011
Posts: 6967
Location: Land of Oz
Mon Dec 10, 2018 6:58 pm quote
Hey traveler! Does it happen all the time or just cold starts?
Veni, Vidi, Posti
Joined: 21 Feb 2011
Posts: 6967
Location: Land of Oz
Mon Dec 10, 2018 7:20 pm quote
I own an LX 50. My advice to you would be to get a new carb. Mine has a 150 CC carb in it. It is hesitant to start in really cold weather. What I do is prime it a few times and then in my case I need to let it run a couples minutes before taking off otherwise it dies on me. Once it's been out and about the problem goes away. If you need the part number of the carb, PM me. I know I have it somewhere. IMHO LX 50's are really starved for air. When I cleaned the filter box I just installed a dry Malossi filter. I hope this helps or at least assuage your expectations. and preoccupations.
Addicted
lx 50
Joined: 09 Oct 2017
Posts: 563
Location: Brighton
Mon Dec 10, 2018 11:20 pm quote
The lights all work from the Stator/engine running so yeh Iíd guess youíve got a bad connection that needs solving before moving on.

You should have a 7.5A fuse under the battery cover at the back under seat.

Fitting a new carb (as youíve done before) wonít solve this out the box. Once fitted youíll need to find the right jet, right needle position, right mixture and idle plus itís highly likely itís not the problem.
Hooked
2006 LX 50
Joined: 16 Jun 2017
Posts: 308
Location: Warren MI
Thu Dec 13, 2018 6:37 am quote
Max6200 wrote:
I own an LX 50. My advice to you would be to get a new carb. Mine has a 150 CC carb in it. It is hesitant to start in really cold weather. What I do is prime it a few times and then in my case I need to let it run a couples minutes before taking off otherwise it dies on me. Once it's been out and about the problem goes away. If you need the part number of the carb, PM me. I know I have it somewhere. IMHO LX 50's are really starved for air. When I cleaned the filter box I just installed a dry Malossi filter. I hope this helps or at least assuage your expectations. and preoccupations.
My 2006 LX 50 with the Malossi big bore kit is still running the stock carb with size 80 jet. It makes significantly more power than it did in stock form. The OEM carb flows plenty for the stock engine.

traveler-

I doubt this is an issue, but my wife's 2014 Fly 50 was restricted by not allowing the carb to open fully. The throttle would turn about an 1/8 turn before raising the RPM. I removed all of the slack by loosening the lock nuts on the cable and turning them until there was almost no slack. That's not going to fix the stalling, but it may help with top speed.

Are you sure you installed the gas valve in the bore correctly? I recall having it installed wrong, where the pin inside the carb bore did not line up with the correct groove in the valve, resulting in poor power. I turned the valve so the pin lined up properly and all was good.
Enthusiast
1969 Sprint 2008 LX150 2006 LX50
Joined: 25 Feb 2017
Posts: 66
Location: Hawaii
Thu Dec 13, 2018 9:24 am quote
Thanks everyone I'm going to check those things this weekend. I'm hoping my headlight is just a connection issue. I was wrestling with wires when I changed out the spark plug, so that may be it. It only stopped lighting after that.

I'll advise if anything changes.
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Granturismo 218
Joined: 04 Feb 2013
Posts: 4750
Location: South Carolina
Thu Dec 13, 2018 2:07 pm quote
The problem with the small engines and carburetors is that there are so many ways gas can get into them, gunk up, and be almost impossible to remove. At some point, it really is better to just go ahead and get a new carb, because if that's the problem, once you start doing workarounds to try to make it work, you end up forgetting all that's been done, and have to go back through and undo them to make it work. That new automatic choke should not have melted either. That's a sign that something is very wrong.
We ran a fleet of rental LX 50s, and even though they were run every year, we had to replace the carbs on both of them. It's a common issue with small displacement bikes.

Make sure the intake manifold is not cracked.
Enthusiast
1969 Sprint 2008 LX150 2006 LX50
Joined: 25 Feb 2017
Posts: 66
Location: Hawaii
Sat Dec 15, 2018 3:42 pm quote
OK Since last visit. I have changed out the carburetor. It took quite a while to get it going. I sprayed carb. cleaner in the intakes. The battery died. I recharged it, and repeated the process. Finally started running. Problem is - It starts right up, but immediately idles at practically full or Red line RPM. I'm concerned I'm going to blow up the engine. I've done this 5 or more times. I think long enough to burn off the carb cleaner used as the jump start. I'm thinking linkage? Not sure how to loosen or reduce flow by way of adjusting those two nuts at the end of the throttle cable. I loosened the idle screw. Didn't help

Thanks in advance,

Traveler (Worst mechanic in the history of mechanics)
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