VBB Floor
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'64 Motovespa 150S (177) , '76 V90 ( 133)
Joined: 27 Mar 2013
Posts: 515
Location: S.Salem, NY
Sat Dec 29, 2018 4:48 am quote
I just picked up a '64 VBB that needs a floor. On Scooter Mercato's page they list the width of the long curved panel at "roughly" 8 3/4". I measure this one at "roughly" 8 1/2". Anyone used this panel and is it "roughly" 1/4" too wide ?
SIP shows theirs at 460mm or just under 18 1/8". Are they the same panel ?
Ossessionato
2 matching N.Z. '69 VBC Super, 177cc Racer, VespaCross Bodge, Puch SRA150, Piaggio Zip 100! & others
Joined: 26 May 2013
Posts: 3733
Location: Millbin, Ostrayleea, mate
Sat Dec 29, 2018 8:47 am quote
Photos?
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'64 Motovespa 150S (177) , '76 V90 ( 133)
Joined: 27 Mar 2013
Posts: 515
Location: S.Salem, NY
Sat Dec 29, 2018 9:17 am quote
Here are couple as I got it two days ago. It is original ( other than some paint ) and complete but was stored outside by the looks of it and shows 6K miles. . It has some serious corrosion on all the alloy ( like from a salty environment) , rotted LH cowl bottom and floor. It is completely stripped down now and I almost have the piston un-stuck.
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Hooked
59" Allstate
Joined: 03 Aug 2018
Posts: 139
Location: TC Florida
Sat Dec 29, 2018 11:55 am quote
Re: VBB Floor
Moto64 wrote:
I just picked up a '64 VBB that needs a floor. On Scooter Mercato's page they list the width of the long curved panel at "roughly" 8 3/4". I measure this one at "roughly" 8 1/2". Anyone used this panel and is it "roughly" 1/4" too wide ?
SIP shows theirs at 460mm or just under 18 1/8". Are they the same panel ?
1) Call Scooter Mercato and ask Dave about your concerns, He's a straight up guy, he'll be honest about the fit.

2) I would think whoever installs the floorpan could fudge an 1/8" on each side and make it look just fine. If they cant you might want to find somebody else to do the job.

PS nice find, good looking scooter.
Addicted
'64 Motovespa 150S (177) , '76 V90 ( 133)
Joined: 27 Mar 2013
Posts: 515
Location: S.Salem, NY
Fri Feb 01, 2019 5:36 am quote
Well, the fudger is I. The new floor actually turned out to be narrower than the original so I trimmed the bead off and back a ways. I left a short section of the floor in place to use as a form to fit the new one, traced it and butted it in. I made short bead sections and blended them in. Here's a shot in primer before any filler/ fairing. At some point you just have to settle for smooth enough and I have to put this aside for a while now...
Also, the new bead profile is narrower and more V-like than the VBB's , so instead of risking huge distortion or lot's of grinding, I re-profiled the floor strips instead. Fortunately, the aluminum bead on the strips is a solid mass.
Bill

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Hooked
Vespa P200, Primavera 130, VNA200, Italjet Pack-a-Way Moped, Ciao etc
Joined: 24 Oct 2014
Posts: 319
Location: Humboldt County, California
Fri Feb 01, 2019 12:47 pm quote
Moto64 wrote:
Well, the fudger is I. The new floor actually turned out to be narrower than the original so I trimmed the bead off and back a ways. I left a short section of the floor in place to use as a form to fit the new one, traced it and butted it in. I made short bead sections and blended them in.
Bill
Bill,

How did the plug welding go on the old spot welds? Did you get a lot of warping? Did you weld the spot weld holes in stages? I'm going to do an Allstate floor next month (hopefully) and need all the advice I can get.
Addicted
'64 Motovespa 150S (177) , '76 V90 ( 133)
Joined: 27 Mar 2013
Posts: 515
Location: S.Salem, NY
Fri Feb 01, 2019 1:22 pm quote
I cut out the spot welds from the bottom and ground off the 'pucks' that are left on the frame. It's funny but this is the first time I have been successful with one of the little hollow spot cutters. I went through both cutters of the first one in just four welds and then did all the rest with just one and it's still good. Once you get the hang of keeping the cutter from walking by starting out slowly and getting the cutter perpendicular like using a hole saw, you are good. I found it helps to drill a small divot first, whereas a center punch can distort the metal. I clamped each one on both sides as I went and the frame 'absorbs' a lot of the heat so warping was not an issue. I did not worry about hitting all the previous weld spots. Now... filling in a whole butt weld is another story... this is where heat becomes a problem.
When removing a panel that is spot welded it really helps if you cut away everything but the strip that's welded first. This way you can peel off the strip as you go and can use a chisel to break any part that isn't cut. I used my new plasma cutter and the cost ( under $200) was worth it just for the fun.
Good luck.

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Hooked
Vespa P200, Primavera 130, VNA200, Italjet Pack-a-Way Moped, Ciao etc
Joined: 24 Oct 2014
Posts: 319
Location: Humboldt County, California
Fri Feb 01, 2019 1:41 pm quote
Moto64 wrote:
When removing a panel that is spot welded it really helps if you cut away everything but the strip that's welded first. This way you can peel off the strip as you go and can use a chisel to break any part that isn't cut. I used my new plasma cutter and the cost ( under $200) was worth it just for the fun.
Good luck.
That's what I did to cut the last floor I did (someone else welded though). Cut off the floor up to the tunnel and then used a thin cutoff wheel to cut the trapezoid shape inside the tunnel. Plasma cutter would have been cleaner and waaaay cooler.

Did you alternate small stitches to do the butt weld and keep heat down? Any heat sink?
Addicted
'64 Motovespa 150S (177) , '76 V90 ( 133)
Joined: 27 Mar 2013
Posts: 515
Location: S.Salem, NY
Fri Feb 01, 2019 3:11 pm quote
I just sort of work over here and then over there. Because of the compound curves in the floor, I had a lot of forming to do anyway and the minimal warping wasn't an issue. But usually, yes, warping's a pain and I wish I was better at shrinking.
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