Oh - should have just said so to start with...
Wizard’s sleeve a.k.a. Clown’s pocket.
Bearings are matched clutch side and fly side.
They fit nicely in the case - if I press them in on before I put the crank in.
Just means I would then have a gap between inner crank web and bearing.
Clutch side seal does in fact rest on the proper surface - so should be okay there.
Wonder if this is why the book says you should mount bearings to crank first.
Even though I had not done this on the clutch side - it would still get pulled all the way in flush as it is now as it goes in first.
Additionally - you have to pull the crank in flush - or close to flush - or the crank web would not align with the inlet hole.
Fly side - well - guess I will have to decide if I am going to gap between seal and bearing - or between bearing and crank - and that it was designed and built that way at the factory. Would welcome more input on this as to what was done new.
BTW - realized I had not posted the solution for the drive shaft.
Just to leave the record of how that was solved - see below.
Original EFL output bearing surface near selector box was about .5mm larger than old - would not fit ID of output shaft bearing
Found machine shop that modifies crank shafts. Instead of a lathe, they use a grinder - gives that high polish look - very fine. Makes the shaft fit perfectly like from factory. No issue with metal hardness - apparently this is how they do crank shafts