Modern Vespa

Funny. I actually purchased it just for this.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P2854X8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is how the colors look together:


I kinda wanted a more off white, but I like this.

Gonna be sharp.

Thanks guys!

I started assembly today. First I needed to replace the broken headlight with a new LED. The LED fit perfectly in the housing of the old headlight, with a slight trim. I fixed them together with JB Weld. Then rewired the stock switches and installed the handlebars and speedo, plus ignition switch.












Making progress!

Nice work on the headset light. Did your headset come with the metal ring that goes around the light? It should cover up the space between the light and the headset. If it did have one it was prob rusty and needed a blasting and a new coat of black paint like the pic below. Prob best to powdercoat black since it can get wet a lot. Btw, if you don’t have one you can have this one.

Looks nice!

Any concern about the light overheating? Looks like you sealed up the cooling fins. But I suppose the surround is metal, so maybe it'll still shed heat efficiently?

It didn't have one from the start. What is the function of it?

Not really. It is a low watt use LED, and the metal surround has a large hole, two, in the back for the old wiring. Plus it is open around the outside. I suppose I could add more holes if it does get hot. I will bench test it and see.

Thanks,

It an outer ring that close the gap between the bottom & top headset and the headlight. Prob helps with keeping out water as they seem to get rusty over the years. Prob have to use an alternative rubber sealer because it screws into the inner ring.
Page 38 Item 2 https://scooterworks.com/assets/PDF/PMVLX%20Vespa%20Service%20Manual.pdf

Installed the rear shock and swingarm. Fits nice:




Plugged in the headlight to test it. Both work with nice cut-offs.





I left it plugged in for over 30 minutes. It barely got warm. I think it will be OK as is, but will keep an eye on it.

Gotcha. Mine didn't have one, and I think it looks good without the chrome.

Thanks,

For the cowls, which one, or suggestions:

I'd try the period correct "Primavera" font...

I like this, but maybe for my wall, not the bike!

Number 2 looks best to my eyes.

Started installing my major electronic components. Mostly I like everything but the battery display. I was hoping to be able to open the glove box and see it, but obviously not going to work. I think I will have to suck it up and mount it on top of the glovebox. Nothing stealthy about that, but it would be nice to see it.

Updated 12V and motor wiring diagrams.

lookin good!

Thanks!

As much as I hate it, I think I am going to have to cut the glovebox to fit the battery information panel.

Great stuff! If it was me, I'd be considering maximum stealth and using bluetooth and my phone to monitor battery status. Either that or make yourself a little dashboard where your Speedo used to be. There's a few projects using Arduino's etc for this sort of thing.

Thanks. I am actually keeping the speedo. It is more stealthy like that IMHO.

The other option is making a bracket that attaches to the inside of the glovebox door and opening it when I want to look at the battery gauge. I could have a limiting chain on it to keep it only open a couple of inches while riding.

it would bounce around like that if left cracked open with a chain. It would drive you nuts.

You are probably right. Next idea. Clip it to the door so I can see it when I want, or reverse it and have it tucked inside the glove box. Hmmmm.

what's the gauge look like? And what are the inputs?

If it's low profile enough to sit on top of the glovebox you could just run the wire between the glovebox and legshield and mount it that way, like I did with CHT's here

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T9LV66P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Problem is, it is not waterproof, and though I do not plan much rain, it will get it occasionally.

I would not worry about exposure to weather if you mount it on top of the glovebox up by the legshield. I would street park my bikes in all sorts of rain, snow, and sun and my gauges only ever got dusty.

If you cut an opening for it in the top of the glovebox, it'd be a clean looking install, and you could easily get a cover plate for it to protect it from the weather.

I would do what Chandler says and cut an opening for it to mount inside give box but put Plexi glass cover over the hole with a rubber gasket between the Plexi and hole. So the sandwich would be Plexi, rubber gasket, globe box hole, electronics display.

Also, mount it to the left side of glove box. I've learned after the fact from mounting my dual temp gauge on the right side that the keys even with minimal keychain block my sightlines when looking down at the gauge cause the ignition lock had the keys dangling over the corner of my gauge. Too late to move my gauge as i already cut a big hole for it, but you get the benefit of my mistake!

Vespa Fonts:

I guess I am just irritated that I didn't do it before paint. Cutting now will very likely damage the paint outside the cut lines.

I'll look into a cover if I go that way. I just haven't seen one that would not look hokey.

I like the second one. What font is that?

Perhaps undercut the hole - accepting what ever chips you get - but then sand the last 3MM with Dremel drum sand to clean it up?
Worst case - needs re-spray.

It is called "Vespa". I had to modify it a bit. I can send you the TTF file for it.

Yes, number two

This was my thought, too, similar to modifying ports on a cylinder with a Nicasil lining.

You could also try putting making tape on, then scoring the paint down to the metal. I've done something similar to prevent cracking in gelcoat. Drill the corners and use a cutoff wheel on your rotary tool for the cuts.

Not as good as doing it pre-paint, but should let you get away with not having to re-paint.

It is the worst case I want to avoid! I will likely go this way.

That would be awesome. PM coming.

Nice! Added!

Started all the wiring. I am building the entire bike harness, as well as assembling the motor control wiring.

First the handle bar and headset wiring. I built the harness to feed past the steering head, and down to the horncast for a junction box. This allows the steering to be removed without cutting wires. On the stock bike it looks like this:


I will be doing it the same way, though a few wires will have conventional plugs, namely the throttle wires.

The headset looks like this:






The wires are bundled by function. Separate bundles because the space is tight, so one large bundle would not fit through the access slots in the steering. I will show that on install.

I created bundles, again by function, to go from the fusebox in the glovebox to the 72V to 12V inverter and the rear lights, and for powering the fusebox. I am grounding them with wires, no frame ground due to the 72V and 12V, that would cause big issues if mixed.

Power cut off and contactor locations, plus harnesses.



Finally, I took the plunge and cut the glovebox for the battery/power meter. I was afraid the heat would ruin the paint, but ineptness with a Dremel did it in instead!




Nonetheless, it works and should give me what I need for data. Hopefully rain will not kill it. I did seal it with hot glue to keep water out of the glovebox and fuse box.

Sucks you had to damage brand new paint, but you will appreciate the ease of use in the long run. Curious how it's being mounted in that opening?

Hate to suggest it but since you are still in disassembled mode, what about stripping and repainting the glove box?