Stella 2T highway/performance upgrades
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Molto Verboso
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 1543
Location: california
Mon Dec 16, 2019 9:27 pm quote
Quote:
Primary in with needles from scooter mercato that worked great!
Ha!
Great.
Solved just as I did: keep ordering needle bearing sets until you get one that works.
Still have no idea why some do and some don't but pretty sure its the rounded ends.
Glad its resolved - so nice when the primary finally spins properly after torquing.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu Dec 19, 2019 2:47 pm quote
I installed the crankshaft tonight so I could measure everything with the new piston in and fine tune my timing/squish with base gasket.

I am left with a question about installing the crankshaft. When installing, you pull it in all the way until it won't pull in anymore or do you pull in until the crankshaft is perfectly halfway between cases? I pulled it in and stopped when I think it was at halfway point between the cases, then pulled it in just a bit beyond that. When I spin the crankshaft, it spins fine, but seems just slightly more resistance than when it was not fully installed, to the point that I need to use two hands, one on the small end of conrod pulling and the other on the fly side stub to spin it. Like I said, It spins, but when it was not fully installed, I could do it with one hand easily, now it has just the smallest amount of resistance with one hand.

I then installed the small side case to check that it would install fine and what I noticed is that when the small side case is off, the conrod seems to be installed perfectly center with the split in the large side case, but when I install both case sides together, the space between the crankshaft and each case half is not centered. So there is less space between the crankshaft web and the large side case than there is to the other crankshaft web to the small side case. Just wondering if this is because I pulled the crankshaft in just slightly too much or if that is normal? How do you guys judge how far to pull the crankshaft in until you stop?

Photos below to show what I'm talking about.

EDIT: and just to clarify.. nothing is getting caught crankshaft to case, it moves without snagging up on anything, I've carefully checked the crankshaft and turned it from all angles to make sure the webs are free from the case and the oil seal is installed and sealed on the crankshaft properly. My question is more about how to know when it is installed properly and when to stop pulling, mixed with a little OCD paranoia about resistance when spinning.

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pulled in just slightly beyond halfway.. but when compared with split, it looks centered perfectly.

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case split lines up with center of small end center. From this angle it looks like installed perfectly centered.

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once cases together, it appears to be slightly offset to the right with more space between left side web and case.

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closeup. right web closer to right side case meaning left web has bigger gap to case. Yes this is 1mm or less difference but not sure if it matters.



Last edited by swiss1939 on Thu Dec 19, 2019 3:20 pm; edited 3 times in total
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu Dec 19, 2019 3:07 pm quote
and my exact measurements with the new 1st OS piston installed on the new crankshaft are:


stroke: 59.88mm

1.5mm Base Gasket
PBT: -0.25mm
Head Squish: 1.25mm
Total Squish: 1.5mm

187/127 timing with 30 blowdown.

If I go down to 1.2mm base gasket..I can hit the times Jack suggests as the target, and can get my total squish into a nice sweet spot.

1.2mm Base Gasket
PBT: +0.05mm
Head Squish: 1.25mm
Total Squish: 1.20mm

185/125 timing with 30 blowdown


Also as a side note, I measured the exhaust bottom to piston at BDC and with a 1.5mm base gasket, the exhaust base opens 0.921mm above BDC, but with a 1.2mm base gasket, the exhaust base opens 0.621mm above BDC.. so I was pretty damn close with my exhaust base grinding! I think it is fine where it is at and will go to the 1.2mm base gasket instead of 1.5mm. This means using a 1.0mm base gasket and making a 0.2mm base gasket from the mcmaster carr shim set.

I'm headed to Florida for holidays for the next week. When I get back, I have a few sporadic days off, NYE and Jan 2.. which I am hoping I can get this engine together and pressure tested with first start by the end of day on Jan 2. If not, it will be the week after that.

newpiston_15mmbasegasket.jpg
1.5mm base gasket = 187/127 with 1.5mm squish

newpiston_12mmbasegasket.jpg
1.2mm base gasket = 185/125 timing with 1.2mm squish.

Molto Verboso
Honda elite
Joined: 19 Jun 2007
Posts: 1100
Location: California
Thu Dec 19, 2019 4:43 pm quote
wow dude I think it's going to go faster than before and have better torque. Keep taking your time with it. For me the build process is also satisfying.
Molto Verboso
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 1543
Location: california
Thu Dec 19, 2019 8:15 pm quote
Swiss - pic with case closed shows crank webs all but up against the case walls. Very little room for any adjustment.
Resistance is likely the inner part of the seal lip (you can't see from outside) now touching the crank - in a way that it doesn't before you close up the cases.
If you throw some oil in there - it will likely spin more freely - and lower your anxiety.
That drag is probably normal when dry.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu Dec 19, 2019 10:06 pm quote
the webs are not touching the case walls at all.. in this photo from further away you can see the gap on both sides.


the last photo is because camera is so close that it appears like the webs are basically touching the walls.
Addicted
2007 Stella 150
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 785
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Fri Dec 20, 2019 6:50 am quote
How do you feel about the piston edge sitting above the top of the cylinder? Are the tolerances on alignment close enough that the piston won't hit the squish ring in the head?
Molto Verboso
Honda elite
Joined: 19 Jun 2007
Posts: 1100
Location: California
Fri Dec 20, 2019 7:05 am quote
I think you are good swiss. I didn't see you had two updates last night so I missed the first one with the crank concerns. Think you have to take all the space out of the clutch side and draw the crank completely into the bearing plus tightening the clutch is bringing it home to that side like you have done. Any adjustments need to be made with something (?) inbetween those parts. Sounds like you are not rubbing so that is good. Alignment on a rotary pad engine may be more critical. New bearings and seals will be difficult to rotate by hand without help of a clutch or flywheel to grab onto. After it's started it will loosen up. The porting looks insane think you are going to like it. Had to go back to page 13 to see where you started. Seems like the LML engine has some decent size transfers to start but it looks so much better now!
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Fri Dec 20, 2019 7:15 pm quote
This is to longer an LML cylinder but a Malossi 166 with decent work done to it as you have seen. Can't wait to finally get it running and see how it feels now!
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sat Dec 21, 2019 7:54 pm quote
Christopher_55934 wrote:
How do you feel about the piston edge sitting above the top of the cylinder? Are the tolerances on alignment close enough that the piston won't hit the squish ring in the head?
The head is wider than the barrel so there is enough space to safely run with the piston peeking out the barrel and there is more than enough space in the height to run that 0.05mm up. Also the spark does not stick down into the squish risking hitting so there is no concern doing this in my setup.
Addicted
2007 Stella 150
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 785
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Sat Dec 28, 2019 7:27 am quote
I know this is old, but I have been reading through this thread and thought I'd share, my LML had the long threaded portion in the case also. I took pictures of mine when I pulled them so I wouldn't loose my orientation. The stud came out of mine as pictured, only half was threaded in, the red marker was the end inserted into the case. With only half inserted you could just as well use the short end in the case with a new stud. I measured 41mm of stud above the cylinder top as a reference to get them inserted to the same depth.
swiss1939 wrote:
Jack221 wrote:
Well that's better and worse

The port timing as bolt on does get better 172EX 118TF 27BD which is ok, not great but ok. Will go fine.

The squish however, is buggered. 1.0mm + 1.14mm = way too much. No ones intention to have a squish that big. Measured with solder will be actually bigger. It will run and be ok but will lack something and especially at higher rpm. I would suggest putting the LML150 head on as that looks better but with that big LML locating pin it won't fit. It's only for the summer. The Malossi one will do.

With the 60mm crank it will all be fine. Everything works out good.

So for now. The one aluminum base gasket and no head gasket is the best it will get on the 57 crank.

Be sure to use the AC140 BE4 115MJ and the 52/140 jetting for the first start up. You wouldn't want to seize it before its out the garage.
Ha ok. I'll do that for now. Btw any suggestion on stud installation? I'm pretty positive longer thread down but how far or tight do you install them?


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Jet Eye Master
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 2248
Location: London UK
Sat Dec 28, 2019 9:12 am quote
Never turn studs around. The head end stretches.
Addicted
2007 Stella 150
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 785
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Sat Dec 28, 2019 10:25 am quote
Jack221 wrote:
Never turn studs around. The head end stretches.
Iím not, I was just showing that my LML motor had the long threads in the case also. Going to put them back in the same way.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sat Dec 28, 2019 5:45 pm quote
Got it to the point where I was about to put the cases back together today, being first day back from christmas trip. Until I put the case gasket onto the small side in prep for preventing oilsucker FMP style... and then I realized I bought the master case gasket, not the reed case gaskets, way back a year ago when I slowly started buying the expendables needed for rebuilding engine. Woops! So now im on hold until the correct case gaskets make their way here. Everything is ready to go regardless!

I did have one question about the shift box. I cleaned it up and took a close look to see if anything was loose and needed replacing. The shifter arm that locks into the axle is stiff so I think its good, but I am wondering if the roller arm that rides against the gear notches is worn? It works fine, but what I noticed is that it has some play up and down causing the roller to be just slightly misaligned with the notches. Not sure if this really matters/affects anything but figured I'd propose it to you guys to see if you think it should be replaced. I moved the gears in and out and it has no problem changing gears, but I have no idea if that is a potential failure point that I should be concerned about. Let me know!

video link here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3tX5cKpuVMPMLweK9

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roller arm as you can see has just enough play where it wants to sit slightly up so the roller doesn't sit and roll centered on the notch, but almost halfway up/off of it.

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still touching the bottom, so it is not riding the arm instead of the roller.

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dammit, didnt realize this was the wrong gasket until now. had it sitting on the shelf for over a year. bought it before I really started figuring this stuff out.

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everything ready to go!

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ready to go. Still need to buy the out of stock BGM ultrastrong 2 CR80 clutch whenever that is back in stock.

Molto Verboso
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 1543
Location: california
Sat Dec 28, 2019 8:36 pm quote
Looking terrific.
My experience - the new shift boxes are as poorly aligned as the old.
Some careful bending and a bit of twisting can square and center. My concern is keeping it square.

As I type, Iím considering a bit of welding on the arm to stiffen. I had to bend and twist to right my new one - save ur money unless u trash this one trying to align. Nothing to lose.

My $.02.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Mon Jan 13, 2020 5:25 pm quote
Anybody have some spare hex head case bolt for the Stella bolt that goes right above the cylinder with square nut? It's different that the rest of case bolts that are standard on Vespa. Mine stripped and I'd rather replace with correct than a fully threaded m7 bolt same size from box store as I read partial threaded bolts have stronger shear resistance. No one seems to sell this bolt. Case can't take the standard case bolts like the rest of the holes cause it's gotta be installed from the front as there isn't enough clearance from behind and the case isn't molded with the semicircle hard stop the rest have which match the bolt head.

I found a grainger bolt that looks to be similar enough, but I don't need a box of 100! https://www.grainger.com/product/FABORY-M7-1-00-25CV82

Part number C4721829.

Edit: nevermind. I found a similar partially threaded bolt at Lowe's after digging for half an hour. But if anyone knows who sells the correct part or another supplier that makes the same m7x1 49mm bolt I'd be interested.

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Ossessionato
'09 250 GTSie '75 Rally 200 '79 P200 '09 Stella 221
Joined: 13 May 2012
Posts: 2557
Location: Midway, Kentucky
Mon Jan 13, 2020 5:45 pm quote
Have you looked at McMaster Carr? www.mcmaster.com
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Mon Jan 13, 2020 5:53 pm quote
That was the first place I looked and they don't sell any m7 bolts partially threaded. They only have full threaded m7.
Addicted
1974VLB 1979VSX 1974V9A
Joined: 12 Sep 2014
Posts: 675

Mon Jan 13, 2020 6:32 pm quote
This saga is still going. Iím impressed with your persistence. God speed!
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Mon Jan 13, 2020 8:09 pm quote
Bro, I don't give up. . I would have been done 4 months quicker but I have zero time to work on it from September through April. Maybe three hours every other week if I'm lucky
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu Jan 16, 2020 6:27 pm quote
Cleaned up the head some more today with the dremel polishing pads Christopher_55934 suggested from amazon. I am wondering if leaving the newly cleaned up surface well polished is a bad thing and if I should scuff it up a bit with sandpaper to give it a kindof a hone? Figure if the hone in barrel is there to keep everything lubricated and cool, then the head should also have similar surfacing? Or does that not matter in the combustion area cause it is all burning off anyways?

I couldn't completely remove the pits in the head cause I didn't want to alter the squish too much, but I polished it all so there is no sharp/rough edges to any of the preignition damage. Head squish is still 1.02-1.15mm measured on the four compass corners. Piston flush.. squish = head squish.

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Jet Eye Master
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 2248
Location: London UK
Thu Jan 16, 2020 7:18 pm quote
Now the cases are together and you're doing squish. Have you finalised the packers and port timing?
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu Jan 16, 2020 7:35 pm quote
Jack221 wrote:
Now the cases are together and you're doing squish. Have you finalised the packers and port timing?
Yes. stock malossi 1.0mm gasket with 2 custom cut gaskets 0.24mm and 0.06mm for 1.30mm total. Just assembled loosely tonight to make sure the piston was flush or as close to flush as possible with these gaskets. Piston @TDC might be just under flush ~ -0.10mm but close enough.

I believe my timings were 185/125/30 on the nose. 1.08-1.15mm squish.

Exhaust bottom sits just 1.19mm above piston at BDC after the initial grinding prior to bore. I left it as is since it is close enough.

Still have not acquired a stronger clutch as I've been waiting over a month for BGM Ultrastrong 2.0 to come back in stock. Gonna do a leakdown test when I finally seal the top end up this weekend. Figure I can get it running on test stand without the clutch just to start working on jetting while I finish off with the rest of the upgrades I need to do before I put it back on the road: westach EGT/CGT gauges and internal wiring, fast flow tap with resevoir warning light in the glovebox, all new control cables, new shocks all around, clean the underbelly.


EDIT: Actually I just went back up my thread and realized I wanted to go to a 1.20 base packer, not 1.30mm. So I revisted the calculator just now and turned off the rounding check box and see that my current 1.30mm base gives me 185.85/125.94/29.95. just removing the 0.06mm red gasket I created with give me 1.24mm base and move the timing closer to the middle of the fraction at 185.62/125.64/29.99. So that is what I will do.. just stick with the malossi 1.0mm and the brown 0.24mm gaskets for 1.24 base. This is close enough for me and quicker than recutting another thinner gasket or two to get to 1.20 even. Piston will peek out 0.01mm supposedly, and squish will be that sliver smaller. Trying to roll with the close enough mentality and consider it good in my book.

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Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sat Jan 18, 2020 3:59 pm quote
Finished prepping the air box and reed plate today ported for the new 24/24 carb as well as disassembled cleaned and rebuilt the auto lube on the air box. Ready to finally install and close off the top end but decided to wait for a warmer day. Snowing and 27f with no heat in garage so I was freezing. Decided I can't do any critical work in that cold weather as I'm all thumbs, clumsy and in a rush, so as I've learned in the past few months.. that is when I screw up and end up costing myself more time and money. So I'll wait till my next 40+ day off to put the top end on and do a leak down test.

Test fit the two gaskets for 1.24mm base packer and looks like piston is either flush or just over as intended. This is 185/125 plus fraction of a point over for each with 30.04 blow down.

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Also got the polini Venturi with air box filter mount with a k&n air filter.

Jet Eye Master
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 2248
Location: London UK
Sat Jan 18, 2020 7:16 pm quote
All coming along well. Keeping the transfers down nearer to 125 will work out better for the commuting. Would like to have seen that exhaust port lower than the piston edge.
Be sure to do a good pressure test once all bolted up. Needs to hold all the pressure for at least five minutes and still most of it by ten.
Cold for working. Will you be able to ride it in that?
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sat Jan 18, 2020 7:34 pm quote
So it should be just below the piston? I thought it needed to be just above or flush with piston top. It is currently about 0.78mm above piston.
Jet Eye Master
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 2248
Location: London UK
Sat Jan 18, 2020 7:50 pm quote
Yes, flush or just below. As it is it will run slightly hotter and lose a tiny amount of power at the top. Going to be way quicker than before anyway.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sat Jan 18, 2020 8:22 pm quote
Alright. I'm leaving as is for now. Next time I need to take it all apart and do any top end work I'll grind the exhaust to just below. Don't feel like messing with it anymore right now as it is finally time to finish this damn thing and get it running again.

How does having the exhaust base slightly lower or flush with the piston top edge keep it cooler and more powerful at top end? I'm guessing airflow out the exhaust is rushing over the top of the piston the whole time it is on downward stroke, which would provide more time for cooling of the piston?
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sat Jan 18, 2020 8:33 pm quote
Jack221 wrote:
Cold for working. Will you be able to ride it in that?
Yes I will. Love the cold. Riding has warmer gear on hands than working. Can't work with big thick gloves on. Plus I was considering going the heated glove route that Harbinger suggested..
http://powerinmotion.ca/Products/Heated-Wear/Heated-Glove-Liners

As long as I can keep my hands warm at speed, I will ride as cold as it can get around here!
Jet Eye Master
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 2248
Location: London UK
Sat Jan 18, 2020 9:06 pm quote
swiss1939 wrote:
Alright. I'm leaving as is for now. Next time I need to take it all apart and do any top end work I'll grind the exhaust to just below. Don't feel like messing with it anymore right now as it is finally time to finish this damn thing and get it running again.

How does having the exhaust base slightly lower or flush with the piston top edge keep it cooler and more powerful at top end? I'm guessing airflow out the exhaust is rushing over the top of the piston the whole time it is on downward stroke, which would provide more time for cooling of the piston?
Exhaust gas is around 1000 degrees as it exits. Not a great deal of cooling done at this point. Piston crown cools mostly during the squish part of compression.
Having the lip means some extra gas doesn't get out in time and more is mixed with the fresh charge. This happens anyway but with the lip it happens a bit earlier, reducing max power rpm.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sat Jan 18, 2020 9:10 pm quote
That makes complete sense! So lowering the exhaust port just below piston edge provides cooling, more power and torque. I'm guessing as a result of more complete evacuation with the lower exhaust port, means you are getting a fuller fresh charge on the compression cycle, which leads to more power and is why lowering the exhaust port adds torque.
Molto Verboso
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 1543
Location: california
Sat Jan 18, 2020 9:13 pm quote
Lookin good Swiss.
Just had a full catch up.
Enjoying the read.

Working in the cold is the worst.
Mass holds temperature.
The tools overwhelm the hands with cold.
Every nut to bolt is extra tight.

How big is that garage?
Maybe a cheap space heater is in your future.
On a timer to preheat, set next to your tool box!

Slow and steady.
All looking good.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sat Jan 18, 2020 9:19 pm quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Lookin good Swiss.
Just had a full catch up.
Enjoying the read.

Working in the cold is the worst.
Mass holds temperature.
The tools overwhelm the hands with cold.
Every nut to bolt is extra tight.

How big is that garage?
Maybe a cheap space heater is in your future.
On a timer to preheat, set next to your tool box!

Slow and steady.
All looking good.
Small width garage. An old garage built for smaller vehicles. I do have tons of height in my garage though so have built storage above the garage door when open. I have a cheapo small space heater that really doesn't help much. I leave it on my workspace directly in front of me with almost max heat on and it just barely is enough to prolong working out there, but if I run it with any other high amp appliance I trip the breaker, which I don't have access to in the apartment basement next door, so it takes a few days to get the super to come reset the breaker for me. I did this yesterday after I forgot my space heater was on and went to turn the air compressor on! Lucky the super came and reset it this morning.

Yes I realize I am working snails pace compared to what others do, but I've learned after the two seizes that I would rather swallow my pride and work extremely slowly and stop when I have a doubt about something or when I feel like i'm getting careless.
Jet Eye Master
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 2248
Location: London UK
Sat Jan 18, 2020 9:26 pm quote
Have you tried a radient type heater? When power is an issue they make you feel warmer.

Slow or fast doesn't matter. Correct matters. This time its all going to be different.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sat Jan 18, 2020 9:31 pm quote
I was thinking about trying to find another heater using different power, thought about those propane heaters, but my garage is too small for that, it could get dangerous quick!

Next spring I need to do some more rearranging and building cause im running out of space again, but also need to clean up the huge pile of cardboard boxes I throw into the back corner right now from all the parts deliveries!

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before I built some storage and shelving.

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before last summers shelving build project. sold the stella auto. not a fan.

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last summer's shelf and worktable project. Finally sold off big tungsten film lights I havent used in years. got some more film equip to sell for room.

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over garage door storage. Got all my darkroom equip up there waiting for me to finish these scooters!

Addicted
2007 Stella 150
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 785
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Sun Jan 19, 2020 3:57 am quote
If you could put some thick plastic up on the bottom of the roof rafter it would help hold in heat. When I built my last garage, at my last house I had a heater running wide open and barely keeping it above freezing. After I put the plastic up that day the heater was cycling on and off. I need to get plastic and a ceiling in this garage to hold the heat in. I have the same issue you do with trying to keep warm.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sun Jan 19, 2020 8:04 am quote

Me warding off the demon in the engine...

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Molto Verboso
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 1543
Location: california
Sun Jan 19, 2020 8:00 pm quote
Looks great.
Engine looks ok too.

Christopher is sport on.
But use this instead - will have significant effect - reflects heat back.
Will be better in the summer too most likely.
Staple gun and a body.
30-45 min.
use the extra to make a curtain you can drape in front of the door - for bonus points if you wanna.

🙂

https://www.amazon.com/AES-Industries-Radiant-Reflective-Insulation/dp/B06XPPZWLW/ref=sr_1_156?keywords=radiant+barrier&qid=1579492602&s=automotive&sr=1-156
Jet Eye Master
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 2248
Location: London UK
Mon Jan 20, 2020 7:37 pm quote
How did the pressure test go? Engines that cruise around at 1/4 throttle on a Sunday can get away without one but engines that are going to be stretching the throttle cable and terrorizing the neighbourhood must have one. The slightest air leak will make it hard to jet in and self destruct too early.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Mon Jan 20, 2020 8:26 pm quote
Threw it together quick tonight with the bike tube and blood pressure pump, but was getting a leak. Think it's my tester connections. Was below freezing so I didn't go get a bottle of soapy water to confirm. I will do a more complete one tomorrow before work and hopefully it's just my ghetto tester connections leaking.

Did this..
https://youtu.be/SAEi0M66uXA[/url]

Edit: it was the tester connection at intake. 20F in here so this will wait for a warm day. Soap water freezing to intake as I spray it. Ha!

IMG_20200121_091630.jpg

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