Stella 2T highway/performance upgrades
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Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Tue Jan 21, 2020 11:26 am quote
It warmed up enough where I could tolerate doing it a little more. Resealed the tester connections but still think there may be an issue with tester connections as there is a slow leak. I need to redo this on a warm day because the case is covered in ice now from spraying with soap water so I can't really see fine bubbles anywhere. I did turn the case flat on both the fly and clutch sides and cover those seals in oil to s if there was any bubbling coming from the crank seals. No bubbles on either so that is good. Question still remains if the slow leak is coming from the cylinder base, head, tester connections or maybe something internal?

Timed the pressure and I pump it up to 220mmhg, it quickly loses pressure to about 200 then settles into a slow leak. I started the timer at 10 minutes when it settled at 200mmhg. After 5 minutes it was at 160mmhg, after 10 minutes it was at 140mmhg. 10-15 minutes later it's still at 120mmhg, whatever that psi equivalent is.

IMG_20200121_141650.jpg

Addicted
2007 Stella 150
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 785
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Tue Jan 21, 2020 4:31 pm quote
Your between 2 and 3 psi.

1 psi is about 51.7 mmhg
Jet Eye Master
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 2248
Location: London UK
Tue Jan 21, 2020 7:10 pm quote
Nice try. 6 psi is about 300 on that gauge. Should hold the whole 300 for 10 minutes to be any good.

I know its annoying when there is a leak but running a tuned scooter with a crankcase leak will cause all kind of issues. The main one is that it won't be as fast as it could be.

When its not the seals its often the oil sucker point at the case gasket. Need to find the leak even if its just in the test gear.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Tue Jan 21, 2020 7:22 pm quote
Jack221 wrote:
Nice try. 6 psi is about 300 on that gauge. Should hold the whole 300 for 10 minutes to be any good.

I know its annoying when there is a leak but running a tuned scooter with a crankcase leak will cause all kind of issues. The main one is that it won't be as fast as it could be.

When its not the seals its often the oil sucker point at the case gasket. Need to find the leak even if its just in the test gear.
I'm really hoping it's not the oil sucker. I followed fmps suggested method for preventing that with a careful application of the gasket to fly side then a blob of sealant beneath it to act as reinforcement.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Tue Jan 21, 2020 7:27 pm quote
I may try to build a better tester using pipe fittings and rubber stopper for the exhaust and plate for the induction. Have a feeling it's this janky inner tube blood pressure system.

Gotta figure out how to fabricate the induction plate without any way to cut a halfway decent thickness plate, cheap ass harbor freight ai angle grinder air tool struggles on 5/16" steel!
Molto Verboso
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 1542
Location: california
Wed Jan 22, 2020 7:27 am quote
Swiss,
You might try sealing off the carb inlet and filling through only the exhaust stub only.

You can use your existing carb box with a piece of rubber under it to blank off the carb inlet. Grease the rubber if you wanna double down on sealing. Spark plug can go in the head. Leaves you only dealing with one inlet at the exhaust stub to get your tester to seal to - and the rubber tube stretched should do a pretty good job there.

Angle grinder lousiness: I got a night and day performance increase out of all my air tools by changing both ends of my connections using high flow fittings. Cheap. Game changer. You might try this to upgrade.

https://www.amazon.com/ColorFit-Milton-HIGHFLOWPRO-S-314VKIT-Coupler/dp/B077Y7P9PW/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_c_0_2/138-3936734-2178525?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B077Y7P9PW&pd_rd_r=a6bccf48-121c-4dc4-9f23-e0f1b03e71de&pd_rd_w=2762C&pd_rd_wg=z7fEH&pf_rd_p=ab9ba685-8ad0-4dc1-9c4b-538aeac3a850&pf_rd_r=C8W45777C6FE53WZ7BMW&psc=1&refRID=C8W45777C6FE53WZ7BMW
Ossessionato
2015 GTS300, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 4432
Location: San Diego, CA
Wed Jan 22, 2020 8:41 am quote
yeah use a plate on the inlet

I used a plate on the inlet, rubber to seal the exhaust, and a leakdown tester as the entry point for air in the cylinder head. somewhere in my 40 page odyssey it is documented .
Ossessionato
2015 GTS300, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 4432
Location: San Diego, CA
Wed Jan 22, 2020 8:47 am quote
http://modernvespa.com/forum/post2211369#2211369

keep moving through that page and you'll see what I did. I used an inner tube with a hose clamp on the exhaust stub, but this is a bit fiddly - hard to get a good seal. I never found a rubber plug that would work better, but next time I do it I will. Making a plate for the inlet was easy - it doesn't need to be pretty at all. I used a piece of inner tube below it as well as a gasket.
Addicted
2007 Stella 150
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 785
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Wed Jan 22, 2020 8:59 am quote
How about a boat drain plug setup?
https://www.amazon.com/Attwood-7526A7-Brass-Handle-T-Handle/dp/B07V96JCKS

71gCtdLcfYL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Wed Jan 22, 2020 9:13 am quote
Just found a pinpoint hole in the inner tube I'm using. Rechecked everything again and was at a loss cause I can't hear or see a leak anywhere in engine. So I sprayed the whole inner tube and found a tiny hole that only bubbles for a second. Thank God. I'll replace the tube and try again tomorrow and hopefully confirm solid leak free engine. Damn cheap Schwinn tubes from Target!

But yes that was the type of exhaust plug I was considering using if switched tester

I think the tip off that the tube was the issue is how the leak acted when pressurising and when it sat untouched overnight. Pressurising the leak would rapidly lose pressure and then settle, which implies the hole is flexible unlike metal on metal holes in the engine. So my thought was if it's losing pressure rapidly when higher pressure then settling at lower, the hole in the tube is sealing itself at lower pressure. Which was confirmed overnight as it only lost 10mmhg in 24 hrs. But as soon as I started moving the tube today it would lose pressure faster. If it was a metal on metal leak from the engine I would assume a constant loss over time regardless of pressure because the hole is not flexing as a result of the low pressure I'm dealing with.
Addicted
2007 Stella 150
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 785
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Wed Jan 22, 2020 5:52 pm quote
Look for a thorn resistant tube, they are thicker rubber might be more suited to bring used outside a tire.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu Jan 23, 2020 9:07 am quote
Second tube has no leak but the tester is still showing a very slow leak. Pumped up to 300, settled at 290, started clock there. 5 minutes in it was at 280, 10 minutes in at 264mmhg. 10% loss. I still think it's the test equipment. I'm gonna buy a leak down tester and close off the ports to triple check. No bubbles present on anything outside right now.

IMG_20200123_113351.jpg

Jet Eye Master
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 2248
Location: London UK
Thu Jan 23, 2020 6:52 pm quote
Its really close. Tough call. When its the engine leaking its normally worse than that. Suspect the test gear but you have to know. Look at some of Craig's legendary tests that hold over night for inspiration.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu Jan 23, 2020 7:29 pm quote
I still think it's the test equipment. It still loses fast then settles to slow leak which feels more like a rubber leak or something related to it. This is why I'll go buy a real tester and try to remove that variable before I assume it's an internal seal and split the case again. Finally a day off tomorrow with slightly warmer weather to spend more than 30 minutes on trying to solve this.

Edit:. I pumped it up to just over 300 yesterday around 12 and left it for almost 24 hrs till now. It's at 247 after 23 hrs. I'm thinking it loses air when I'm moving the test equipment around and then when it's left alone it is solid internally so it barely loses anything over time.

Going to confirm with new test equipment today.

IMG_20200124_110850.jpg

Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Fri Jan 24, 2020 12:56 pm quote
Ok so I'm calling this leak down test a success with a mild asterisk.

Bought a leak down tester from harbor freight, an expansion plug from Auto zone and a rubber packer from the plumbing section of Lowe's to perform this test.

Cut rubber packer to fit below air box, applied some motoseal to the reed block and put the rubber packer down then bolted air box to the top of the Reed block, plugged the exhaust stub with the expansion plug and installed the leak down tester to the spark plug hole. Leak down tester set to approx 6-8 psi (gauges weren't exactly precise) and tried to test. First problem was the cheap harbor freight tester had a female air connector that wouldn't accept it's own male connector from the testing side to the spark plug hose. Luckily I had a spare one for same connector lying around so I removed the junk one on the tester and installed mine which connected fine to the spark plug tube.

Test came back with no discernable difference in pressure, maybe 1 psi if at all??? Given there was always about that much difference in the two gauges even when not connected to engine. So I sprayed it all down and the only issue was a very tiny leak at the base of the Reed block connecting to the engine case. I will reseal it using more motoseal and call it good to go! I will say it was easier to see results with the actual tester with constant air pressure because bubbles has a regular rate of production compared to the short burst with the blood pressure pump and then nothing after that.

Pictures below.

IMG_20200124_141024.jpg
25-28mm expansion plug. Stub measured at 29mm so I had to crank down on this good to get it to seal

IMG_20200124_154003.jpg
Exhaust sealed

IMG_20200124_132301.jpg
Rubber packer from Lowe's

IMG_20200124_142930.jpg
Cut and motosealed

IMG_20200124_132304.jpg
Testing equipment

IMG_20200124_151833.jpg
Removing the junk air connector

IMG_20200124_151826.jpg
Top one is good and replaced the junk bottom one that ended up in the trash

IMG_20200124_152410.jpg
Test results. No discernable difference. Gauges were that different by default

IMG_20200124_152842.jpg
Rear air box bubbles coming from reed block to case.

IMG_20200124_152902.jpg
And air box front similar bubbles from reed block to case. Will reseal reed block.

Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Fri Jan 24, 2020 2:06 pm quote
Should I be using motoseal or another gasket sealant in addition to the paper gaskets for both the reed block and the air box?

My leak testing, I used motoseal on the Reed block and when I removed the paper gasket it was wet throughout, from spraying with soap water, but I feel like the motoseal never fully dried smooth. Just want to make sure the gasket sealant doesn't have adverse effects on the paper gasket. If so then I'll just go with paper, no sealant.
Jet Eye Master
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 2248
Location: London UK
Fri Jan 24, 2020 6:53 pm quote
Looks like you're just about there. Lot of effort gone into this but you can see with your reed block, gasket sealer and clamped tight and still leaks. Same still happens to me too more often than I like to admit.

I have never found any gasket sealer that is fully petrol proof. If you can get it to hold pressure without sealer, there is no chance of the petrol ever dissolving the sealer.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Fri Jan 24, 2020 7:37 pm quote
Yep, I think its good. Whatever is leaking out of the reed block when I reseal it all is minimal. I'll check again just to be sure it didn't get any worse and then start to run the engine and work on jetting.

I pulled the tank to put the new sip fast flow tap with electronic reserve light on and will start rewiring the control cables this week.

If I want to run engine on test stand, do I need to hook up any wires aside from the stator wires to the HT coil? I've never run the engine not connected to the wiring harness before, so I just want to double check what is necessary for it to spark and run.

So all that is left is this stuff:

1.) replace all control cables
2.) drill hole in frame neck to get wiring into the glove box from under the horncast.
3.) feed westach EGT/CHT cables and fuel reserve warning light wiring through frame into glovebox through that drilled hole.
4.) drill a mounting hole for the westach EGT/CHT gauge in the top of the glovebox, and a smaller hole in top of glove box for the fuel tap warning light (using a p200 indicator light for reserve).
5.) clean and wash the rear wheel well
6.) replace both front and rear shocks with new

Once all this done, engine will be back into frame and can start riding this damn thing again!

EDIT: also forgot.. 7.) still need to order BGM ultrastrong 2.0 CR80 clutch (which seems to never be back in stock). I don't want to really run this engine on the road with the stock LML clutch. Don't need to be splitting engine again to clean shrapnel out if the clutch blows up from added power.

Last edited by swiss1939 on Fri Jan 24, 2020 7:59 pm; edited 2 times in total
Molto Verboso
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 1542
Location: california
Fri Jan 24, 2020 7:41 pm quote
The only gasket I have ever successfully gotten to seal at the carb box - admittedly - just a measly SI 20/20 ( non-26/26...) was to use the SIP premium gaskets.
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/gasket+sip+premium+carburettor_92976020
Look like linoleum - measurably thicker - but don't compress and start leaking.
My $.02.
Not sure if available for read valve set up.
Bodge solution I also had success with.
Double the paper gasket.
If you wanna have a laugh - try it with your leak down.
🙂
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Fri Jan 24, 2020 7:53 pm quote
charlieman22 wrote:
The only gasket I have ever successfully gotten to seal at the carb box - admittedly - just a measly SI 20/20 ( non-26/26...) was to use the SIP premium gaskets.
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/gasket+sip+premium+carburettor_92976020
Look like linoleum - measurably thicker - but don't compress and start leaking.
My $.02.
Not sure if available for read valve set up.
Bodge solution I also had success with.
Double the paper gasket.
If you wanna have a laugh - try it with your leak down.
🙂
I have a bunch of sip premium gaskets for carb, but they do not make those gaskets for the reed block to crank case. In fact, the gaskets for the reed block are a pain to find. I think I could only find them on scooter mercato.

The problem with finding the correct gaskets for the LML reed block are that the block is shaped differently for the auto lube gearing. so all the gaskets on sip are plain square, whereas the correct gaskets have the square opening, but an arm extends out to seal the autolube gearing section of the block.

This is the correct LML reed block to case gaskset:
http://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Carb-Gaskets-Loose/4723692_2

and then this is the correct gasket for the top of the reed block to air box:
http://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Carb-Gaskets-Loose/4723698_2

SIP does carry the correct bottom gasket still in stock, but the top gasket is out of stock for good...
https://sip-scootershop.com/en/products/gasket+reed+valvemotor+lml+_92059002

All their premium reed block gaskets are shaped wrong and look like this:
https://sip-scootershop.com/en/products/gasket+th+05mm+sip+for_78545000

In fact, what I've always found funny is that SIP carries the LML reed block, but it is not the correct one for these engines! I am always wondering what non autolube reed engine this was for...
https://sip-scootershop.com/en/products/reed+valve+block+lml+for+reed_40311000

this is the actual LML reed block for these engines (clearly not the one sip is selling):


If you look at this picture, which shows the underside of the reed block... those two square indents on either side of the reeds that have one edge flush with the block edge... those are where my tiny leaks were coming from. I dont know why they cast this block with those square indents as it serves little to no purpose and the mating face of the case could and should have lined up with the reed block, instead of having these indents. The only reason I can guess as to those indents is to have a slot you can lever a screwdriver into to remove the reed block.
Molto Verboso
Honda elite
Joined: 19 Jun 2007
Posts: 1100
Location: California
Fri Jan 24, 2020 10:50 pm quote
Way to go swiss1939!
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sat Jan 25, 2020 5:13 pm quote
Thanks Hibbert. Still a ways to go before it's considered safely set up.

But I'm knocking down some of the to do on my list.

Cleaned the wheel well and underside today. Gonna try to start rewiring control cables and feeding the temp/fuel gauge wiring through the frame over the next few days.

IMG_20200125_185736.jpg
clean as a whistle.

IMG_20200125_185743.jpg

Jet Eye Master
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 2248
Location: London UK
Sun Jan 26, 2020 6:50 pm quote
Lovely cleaning job. Stand rubbers not a great look.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sun Jan 26, 2020 7:05 pm quote
I want a center stand with metal feet instead of rubber feet but I couldn't find one.
Jet Eye Master
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 2248
Location: London UK
Sun Jan 26, 2020 7:29 pm quote
My PX200 has metal feet. Slide around all over the place and less easy to flick onto the stand. When I get around to it they are being changed to rubber.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sun Jan 26, 2020 7:32 pm quote
The rubber themselves don't last long at all. Those on there are only about 9 months old!
Molto Verboso
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 1542
Location: california
Sun Jan 26, 2020 10:44 pm quote
Swiss - put a thick washer in the bottom of the feet - before you put them on. It will displace the load so you don't wear through so fast.
When it comes to bodgery - you know I have a certain expertise.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Wed Jan 29, 2020 11:07 am quote
That's a great trick cm22! You really are a vault of bodge tricks!


So I think I'm giving up on the bgm ultrastrong clutch for cr80 plates now as they have not been back in stock for over two months after only being available for like three days. I may try to get one at a later date whenever they become available for one of my other bikes, but I'm looking at sip superstrong clutches now.

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/clutch+sip+cosa+2+ultrastrong+_93404300

I noticed sip has cr80 plates that either their clutch is built to fit, or the plates are modified in manufacturing to fit the standard cosa2 clutch.

I've found two similar cr80 plates on sip slightly different pricing. Anyone know what the difference is besides price between these two?
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/clutch+friction+plates+sip_93081800

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/clutch+friction+plates+sip+_93081700
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu Jan 30, 2020 8:27 am quote
Scooter Center finally has these clutches back in stock. Luckily I did not order the SIP one yet. I have ordered it through Jonathan Gick!
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Fri Jan 31, 2020 11:38 pm quote
My router crapped out over night and now I can't get any connections over Ethernet or 5g wifi, but the 2g works. So strange. It's like the modern day version of a blackout. I can't do anything like watch TV or user my computer. Struggling to get stuff done using only my phone. I'm gonna try to upload all the images from today over this slower wifi connection from my phone so this post might be rough.

Spent 12 hrs in garage today finally a full day trying to get all the random tasks done before getting the engine back into frame and starting on jetting.

Things done today:
1. Drilled 10mm hole in frame tunnel to feed wiring into glove box.
2. Spray primer/paint Apple red onto the drilled hole to hello protect from rust.
3. Fed wiring through frame into glove box...westach cht/egt sensor wiring as well as the fuel reserve warning light wiring for the sip fast flow tap with warning light.
4. Replaced all the 15yr old original control cables inner and outer with sip set https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/cable+kit+for+vespa+px80200+e_9418090b


Wiring and cabling shouldn't have taken that long, but the throttle and shifter cables specifically inside the headset are a pain in the ass! For some reason LML installed the shifter cables with a metal clamp holding them both together inside the headset so you can't slide one out and then the other. This was the first slow progress holdup as I ended up having to cut one of them inside the headset cause the cable broke and stretched out. Once I sorted that out with many back and forth feeding a junk inner through from all angles to get the cables back in the right spot inside headset I moved onto the throttle which had it's own set of problems. I had to loosen the handlebar lower units securing bolt cause the old worrying harness inside the headset is so stiff and tight that I couldn't fed the old throttle out with new throttle attached to it which led to the first major hiccup of the day. Didn't realize the securing bolt had a square nut attached to it on the outside of the front of the handlebar assembly. Loosened the bolt and the square nut fell down inside the tunnel to be lost forever. I spent a good two hours with one of those cheap magnet extensions trying to see if I could recover it in the tunnel, on my hands and knees crawling around the garage floor to see if it rolled somewhere else, and even picked up the bike from the front fork and tilted it onto the tail and shook it trying to get it to roll to the back of the frame where I could hopefully grab it. No luck. So I went back to trying to get the throttle cable replaced and tried to remove the headset lower. Couldn't get the lower to come off the frame at all. I assumed the securing bolt needed to be removed before it could come off in the same way the Kickstart lever securing bolt has to be removed before the lever can be pulled off the quadrant. Even after removing this bolt I still couldn't get the lower headset to come off, but it swivels around on the fork fine. Not sure why it wouldn't come off so I gave up trying that and reverted back to using an old inner cable to force feed the throttle into the headset past the rock hard wiring harness. Job finally done many hours and many curse words later. Ha! I honestly didn't think it was that hard to do all that but first time is lots of trial and error with feeding the cables into the appropriate spots inside the headset.

I removed the throttle tube to make some room while doing that, and since I was in there I removed the right side signals and cutoff switch cause that cutoff never worked. Pulled the switch out along with the wiring for cutoff and found the problem. No connector just bare wires that didn't even get fed into the neck, just jammed underneath some of the wiring inside headset. I know most cut that cause it has problems, I assume the original owner did that at some point way in the past. I'm a completionist so when I first got the bike from my uncle I bought a new switch and indicator for that handle but never installed it. I'll do that now before I close it all up, just gotta take the connector off and feed the wiring into the horn cast and reconnect the connector.

Long day, fun day, it's all done. Just need to buy a 10mm square nut from home Depot to straighten and tighten the handlebars back into place, drill mounting holes in the top of glovebox for gauges and fuel reserve light, then install new rear shock. Then the frame is just waiting for the engine.

Engine is just waiting on bgm clutch and I gotta size and fit the woodruff keys to get everything closed up and ready to run!

IMG_20200131_133501.jpg
Westach gauge with cht sensor

IMG_20200131_133516.jpg
Cht sensor to gauge

IMG_20200131_134813.jpg
Egt sensor with gauge

IMG_20200131_134905.jpg
Egt sensor wiring to gauge

IMG_20200131_162628.jpg
10mm hole drilled into tunnel for wiring to glove box

IMG_20200131_165019.jpg
Primer/color combo spray paint. Apple red. Not a match, but who cares it's never gonna be seen. Rust protection only

IMG_20200131_220431.jpg

IMG_20200131_221601.jpg
Wiring fed from tunnel into glove box

IMG_20200131_221619.jpg
Nice and easy to deal with this wiring now that it's inside glove box!

IMG_20200131_224145.jpg
All new cables and sensors fed through frame properly

IMG_20200131_223922.jpg
Fuel reserve wiring waiting to connect to fast flow fuel tap

IMG_20200131_223854.jpg
This is a hot mess. Lots of swearing at that crap!

IMG_20200131_220025.jpg
Old switch wiring missing something..

IMG_20200131_220209.jpg
New switch should be good to go

IMG_20200131_181023.jpg
This damn metal clamp caused lots of issues replacing the shifter cables

IMG_20200131_192932.jpg
Lots of makeshift feeder cables from all directions to get things into the correct spots, working from brake pedal opening to the horn cast and up

IMG_20200131_192949.jpg
For the stubborn spots to feed cables, I found this trick worked well to get a strong hold onto cables in order to pull hard enough to get through. With some wiggling from both ends

Ossessionato
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 2547

Sat Feb 01, 2020 12:24 am quote
Don't give up on finding that square nut just yet! Lots of the time you can easily gain access to that nut if you remove the rear brake pedal.


...but after reading further down your thread, you had full access to the tunnel, so nevermind then.

Last edited by whodatschrome on Sat Feb 01, 2020 12:31 am; edited 1 time in total
Ossessionato
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 2547

Sat Feb 01, 2020 12:28 am quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Swiss - put a thick washer in the bottom of the feet - before you put them on. It will displace the load so you don't wear through so fast.
When it comes to bodgery - you know I have a certain expertise.
I used to do that...until the price of a washer started costing more than 25 cents. Now i just use a quarter instead.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sat Feb 01, 2020 12:32 am quote
whodatschrome wrote:
Don't give up on finding that square nut just yet! Lots of the time you can easily gain access to that nut if you remove the rear brake pedal.
I had the rear brake pedal off when it happened cause u was feeding wired through frame. Couldn't find it even with a magnet. It's gone. Probably rolled under a pile of junk in my garage. The pile got really big today as parts came flying off the frame at an alarming rate and just stacked haphazardly all over my garage, with what little space to stand and work in tight quarters. I was determined to get it done, and all caution was thrown out at the door.

Funny enough, when I took the glove box off, I found a103 main jet that I lost a year ago when it fell underneath the black key shelf thing that the original owner installed on the top of the glove box! So that goes back into the jet box. And the black shelf thing goes into the trash to make room for the gauges to install at the top of the glove box.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Mon Feb 10, 2020 1:26 pm quote
Small update. Everything ready to go, waiting on new clutch to arrive from gickspeed who is having it cryogenically treated for durability. Spawned by fmps recent images of the rapid wear of bgm clutch gearing. Should be here later this week to finally assemble and run the engine in frame after 6 months on the bench.
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1587707474718388&id=159721547516995
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Fri Feb 14, 2020 9:16 am quote
Still waiting on clutch to come back from cryogenic treatment. In the meantime.. chopping crap up for gauges!

IMG_20200214_112543.jpg
Just happened to already have a hole drill at the correct size for this gauge!

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Big hole.. Ended up being sightly large

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Cutting a rubber gasket to water proof the hole with gauge installed. From the plumbing aisle at home Depot

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Measuring p2 indicator light dimensions for mounting next to temp gauge. Fuel reserve indicator!

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Widened and shaped an existing hole for the fuel reserve light

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And installed!

Veni, Vidi, Posti
a not so normal vbb2 '64, a weirdo vbx '86, a not so normal pts100 '82 and a red lipstick '74 sprint
Joined: 15 Jun 2009
Posts: 5684
Location: Indo
Tue Feb 18, 2020 1:07 pm quote
Just like Brother PP, this gonna be a high tech vespa, good luck with the wiring and cheer Brother S
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Tue Feb 18, 2020 1:16 pm quote
Luckily the temp sensor doesn't need power. It's all done with resistance from the sensors themselves. Only the fuel reserve light gets wired to pos and ground to the gauge pos and neg. Thankfully I already tapped into both positive and ground in horn cast a year ago to create 5 extra connections for accessories, so it is a quick connection! Wiring and electrical is not my strong suit. I'm nervous to convert scoot to DC for vape ignition once I get it running on static ignition first.
Ossessionato
2015 GTS300, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 4432
Location: San Diego, CA
Tue Feb 18, 2020 1:42 pm quote
if it is all working, order the Vape AC version and leave it working. I'm not convinced of the importance of DC on a hobby scoot. AC works pretty well except for that whole headlight dimming at idle thing if the other loads are high.
Molto Verboso
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 1542
Location: california
Tue Feb 18, 2020 9:18 pm quote
Swiss,
Like where you are going with this.
This thing is gonna scream - and the dual temp gauge is a smart play for someone who might wanna drive all the way in to the city - reliably.
Nice execution.

As for the DC Vape over AC - I am a fan.
Primarily for the ability to run LEDs.
No - I am not going to post another picture of my scoot at night.
Promise.

Have a vision of you blasting up the 278 with some of these lighting up the evening.

That's not such a bad thing.

-CM

category-orange.jpg
In red - of course.

Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2181
Location: Staten Island, NY
Tue Feb 18, 2020 11:13 pm quote
I already have the dc version and want to get led headlight eventually. I'm in no rush to convert it. Especially cause I want to make sure I can get it running after tuning it up with the original static ignition. Once I am comfortable with that, I will try switching to the vape variable ignition and leave the halogen headlight for a while. I just need to study chandlerman's updated wiring diagram for stella DC conversion with the actual connections in front of me to figure out how to properly switch the existing wires over to correct connections for the dc vape. I'm sure it won't be so bad with everything actually in front of me, but sitting on a computer looking at wiring diagrams, my brain glosses over.

CM22, ha! I did not think of the led ground lights and usually aren't a fan of that type of stuff, but its actually not a bad idea to put some of those in the front fender, and along the floorboard rails with an on off switch in the glove box.. especially if I'm riding 278 at night home from work, which I will most likely end up doing occasionally. Anything to get more visibility with the crazy drivers here at night!

So I will add some spare electrical wiring through the frame before I close everything up now, just to have waiting for whenever I figure out that LED ground light idea. Thanks for the idea!
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