Stella 2T highway/performance upgrades
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Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Wed Mar 11, 2020 8:19 pm quote
Another full day off reserved just for this project, with all the electrical parts ready to go.

Got the pvc tube sleeving from mcmaster and carr. That worked great, although ideally I would have gotten slightly smaller tubes of it so that everything could fit better and less snug. It took hours to get the cables and wiring fed properly back into the handlebar/neck. I had to redo it a few times cause it was a jigsaw puzzle getting everything to fit in the right holes and not have issues. All said and done, I probably should redo it one more time as there is the slightest binding when handlebars are turned all the way left to the hard stop. Top left neck hole has a few wires or control cable outers that are getting pinched slightly when all the way left. I'm gonna leave it as is for now as I think it will only be a wear issue and not an issue with limiting range of movement.

As far as electrical routing, I made everything fit so much better as I fed all the wiring from both switches on either side handlebar through the tube hole and out the end of the tube where the connectors were connected, instead of having everything loose outside the tubes. You can see it in the photos attached. Top left hole in neck where the hydraulic brake line goes is where the pinching is happening on full left turn to just before hard stop.

I will admit, removing the handlebar/headset and dealing with the wiring harness then trying to get it all back in and fit properly is my least favorite task with these vespas by far. It sucks. Second least favorite has been the legshield trim install on the auto stella I had.

I would have had the engine running today, but as I was prepping to install the tank, I went to install the rubber fuel line grommet into the frame and ripped it cause it was old and brittle. So I ordered 3 more from scooterworks which now I have to wait 3-4 days to get before I can get the tank back in and run it.

I also got the shifter cables installed onto shifter box and got that stuff back on. First time doing it, took not long at all to get on there and a few extra minutes to adjust it properly so it wasn't so damn loose. Probably slightly too tight now cause handlebar gear marks were on at 1/N and a bit off at 3/4. Tried to correct that by tightening the cables using the screw adjuster nuts on the front of the shifter box.

And finally, got the glove box wiring cleaned up, everything plugged into gauges on the glovebox and re-installed the glovebox. Had some issues when plugging the fuel reserve light back in where it wasn't working, where I spent 1-2 hrs troubleshooting it then gave up and resigned myself to just leave it plugged in and deal with it not working for a while until the bike is running for a while and revisit it months down the line. So after I got the glovebox installed and plugged it back in.. damn thing worked. No clue what the issue was but its working. Two unexpected things about the very large temp gauge installed at the top of the glove box now... 1.) almost no space between it and the top glovebox screw mount, so it was a pain to get that nut back on and tightened. 2.) when the key is in ignition and turned on, it blocks half of the gauge with all my keychain/keys on it! So I will just have to keep the stella key separate from everything and just get a thin fabric lanyard that won't block my sight lines to half the gauge!

Remaining task list:

1.) swap old front shock for new
2.) swap old gearbox oil screw for new magnetic one and add gearbox oil
3.) finish installing all control cables.. install cable nipple on clutch and get dialed in.. get the rear brake cable adjusted/tightened to the brake mechanism.
4.) replace fuel line grommet and get the tank re-installed.
5.) install the stator/flywheel and set timing.
6.) drill hole in exhaust for egt sensor and re-install exhaust.
7.) install carb and get the damn thing running again!

NEW task to fix as a result of removing the handlebars a bunch of times without removing the hydraulic brake line:

1.) replace the speedo cable outer which is splitting visible spring interior.


BTW, if you guys missed it in the gen section... I mentioned in the COVID thread that my phone was blowing up all day from big group text of co-workers.. they evacuated my work building on 57th street in manhattan cause two people at another company on the 5th and 9th floor tested positive for the covid. We are on 17 and floors 12-19 have a different elevator bay on the other side of the lobby. Only one department I don't work in is on 11, which shares the same elevator bay as those positive people, and some of our guys on 11 come up to our floor regularly so they are all worried we all got it. I missed all the excitement. But I was supposed to work tomorrow and have friday off, then work for 10 days straight. Now the building is closed for at minimum next two days for decontamination. So I have the next two days off. I really wish I didn't rip that fuel grommet cause I'd be riding this scoot on my covid paid time off. Good thing I got all my critical parts from sip already as we can't get shipping from Europe anymore as a result of this.

This is the little bastard preventing me from getting this scoot running for a few more days:
https://www.scooterworks.com/Fuel-Line-Grommet-Most-Largeframe-Vespas-P4296.aspx

IMG_20200311_152138.jpg
new electrical routing.

IMG_20200311_140818.jpg
made more space by sending switch cables through the handlebar tubes on both sides.

IMG_20200311_225712.jpg
glove box back on and wires cleaned up.

IMG_20200311_225142.jpg
key in ignition, can't see half the temp gauge with a keychain on it.

IMG_20200311_225929.jpg
key by itself and I can easily see the temp gauge now. Also notice the fuel reserve light works!

Addicted
2007 Stella 150
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 549
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Thu Mar 12, 2020 2:45 am quote
Can you put a short piece of old tubing around the new tubing in that area for protection? Then you can put the new rubber in later when you get a chance.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu Mar 12, 2020 11:05 am quote
No. That would require pulling the tank again to install the rubber grommet. I'd rather wait and do it all at once.

In fact... I went back into garage with clear thoughts today after sitting on the pinching tugging wiring in the headset. What I noticed today which I wasn't really noticing yesterday is that when i turned the handlebars to the left and let go while it is on stand.. the handlebars automatically pulled back to rest all the way to the right. This is no good. It should rest either left or right with no resistance. So i pulled the headset cover and took a look at what was going on. It was the newly covered wires pulling tight inside the headset on full turn of handlebars. Then I also noticed the throttle cable was getting pulled out of it's seat inside the plastic guide in the handlebar on full right turn. so it slowly started working the cable out and back down into the headset every time full right turn. This told me multiple things needed to get fixed as the throttle cable was also getting resistance. I had fed it in front of and around the ignition barrel to get it to go through the top hole in the neck. This was bad as it created tension on the cable when full right turn.

So I sucked up my pride for the millionth time and pulled the handlebars off again. While I was out, I decided to strip the new vinyl tubing that is slightly large and already cracking after all that pinching.. Instead I went with the self fusing tape I got from amazon. This actually made a lot more room in the neck with all the wires wrapped tightly in that. I was able to get the handlebars off and everything retaped and refed with handlebars back on in about an hour and a half this time. I'm getting much better at it.. and the extra space helps. Preliminary testing after torquing down the pinch bolt proved my fix was much better. Handlebars don't have resistance at either end of the turn and they rest at either end depending on which way I turn. I did notice the self fusing tape was pinching a little on a thicker bundle where you can peek at the gap I expect this to not hold up forever as well and will eventually require retaping again in the future, but for now everything is much better, although the brand new control cables are no longer brand new with slight cracking of the outer. oh well!
Hooked
1984 PX(BGM187)EFL
Joined: 14 Apr 2017
Posts: 366
Location: Cornwall UK
Thu Mar 12, 2020 11:15 am quote
....Now practice changing a headlight bulb in the dark.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu Mar 12, 2020 2:22 pm quote
Welp.. my next month of work just evaporated overnight cause March madness cancelled. I'm basically unemployed a month earlier than expected. So looks like I have plenty of time for the foreseeable future to get this Stella running and jetted properly. My rubber grommet should be here on Monday. I'll be twiddling my thumbs a lot coming up. No money for rent, let alone all the parts to get my p200 back on the road! Time to kick that project way down the list of pending things.

I guess I can tinker with the rust box p125 and maybe get that running as is while I'm bored.
Addicted
2007 Stella 150
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 549
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Thu Mar 12, 2020 2:39 pm quote
swiss1939 wrote:
Welp.. my next month of work just evaporated overnight cause March madness cancelled. I'm basically unemployed a month earlier than expected. So looks like I have plenty of time for the foreseeable future to get this Stella running and jetted properly. My rubber grommet should be here on Monday. I'll be twiddling my thumbs a lot coming up. No money for rent, let alone all the parts to get my p200 back on the road! Time to kick that project way down the list of pending things.

I guess I can tinker with the rust box p125 and maybe get that running as is while I'm bored.
That's not good, are the games going to be rescheduled so you'll have more a little later? What were your plans after March madness?
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu Mar 12, 2020 3:08 pm quote
March madness is done. No rescheduling.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sun Mar 15, 2020 12:26 pm quote
Working very casually since I got all the time in the world and don't get my rubber grommet till tomorrow night. So I've been buttoning up so the small stuff I've been pushing till the end. Reconnected all the headset wiring after fixing the routing of it all the other day as mentioned. Reinstalled all control cables into their appropriate holders in headset and on engine. Reconnected and adjusted shifter cables again. Replaced the oil filler and empty bolts with the grand sport magnetic bolt set. Refilled the gearbox with oil.

Removed the old bitubo front shock and went to install the new sip performance front shock. Discovered as I went to install it that the LML swing arm casting where the shock mount goes is going to need some grinding of about 1mm to fit the new sip shock. The swing arm section that the shock mount grabs onto and is bolted to is the correct thickness, but the rear side wall that holds the bottom bolts square nut is cast with a too narrow Gap to the shock mounting section. So the shock lower mount can't slide into place as is. I'll just take the trusty Dremel to that small section of the swing arm until the shock can slide completely into place.

Also took a closer look at the new sip drt modified 24/24 carb I picked up months ago and noticed that the float passages were only opened to 1.8mm and not 2.0mm as the sip description implied. As mentioned on cm's thread, I'm going to drill that mj passage from float bowl open to 2.4mm to prevent fuel delivery restrictions.

IMG_20200315_160205.jpg
The shock mount bottom arm is too thick by 1mm to slide into the swing arm gap.

IMG_20200315_160022.jpg
Measurement of that gap between shock mounting arm and the rear square bolt holder.

IMG_20200315_141627.jpg
Mj passage measures 1.8mm and the choke jet passage measures 2.0mm as of now. I'll leave choke alone and widen mj passage to 2.4mm

IMG_20200315_160038.jpg
Square bolt holder cast below the arm the shock is bolted to has 1mm too narrow Gap for the shock to slide into place. Dremel here I come!

Ossessionato
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 2461

Sun Mar 15, 2020 12:46 pm quote
swiss1939 wrote:
Working very casually since I got all the time in the world and don't get my rubber grommet till tomorrow night. So I've been buttoning up so the small stuff I've been pushing till the end. Reconnected all the headset wiring after fixing the routing of it all the other day as mentioned. Reinstalled all control cables into their appropriate holders in headset and on engine. Reconnected and adjusted shifter cables again. Replaced the oil filler and empty bolts with the grand sport magnetic bolt set. Refilled the gearbox with oil.

Removed the old bitubo front shock and went to install the new sip performance front shock. Discovered as I went to install it that the LML swing arm casting where the shock mount goes is going to need some grinding of about 1mm to fit the new sip shock. The swing arm section that the shock mount grabs onto and is bolted to is the correct thickness, but the rear side wall that holds the bottom bolts square nut is cast with a too narrow Gap to the shock mounting section. So the shock lower mount can't slide into place as is. I'll just take the trusty Dremel to that small section of the swing arm until the shock can slide completely into place.

Also took a closer look at the new sip drt modified 24/24 carb I picked up months ago and noticed that the float passages were only opened to 1.8mm and not 2.0mm as the sip description implied. As mentioned on cm's thread, I'm going to drill that mj passage from float bowl open to 2.4mm to prevent fuel delivery restrictions.
That shock was probably designed to fit the Piaggio/Grimeca PX disc. There's a couple teeny tiny differences between the LML caliper carrier and the Grimeca. Nothing to do with bearings/seals/shim or backspacing (those are the same)...just a smidge bit different exterior shape in the casting (and couple of the fasteners are a little bit different shaped too)...as you found out. Nothing that can't be quickly fixed with a dremel though! That new shock should be a great upgrade.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sun Mar 15, 2020 1:28 pm quote
whodatschrome wrote:
swiss1939 wrote:
Working very casually since I got all the time in the world and don't get my rubber grommet till tomorrow night. So I've been buttoning up so the small stuff I've been pushing till the end. Reconnected all the headset wiring after fixing the routing of it all the other day as mentioned. Reinstalled all control cables into their appropriate holders in headset and on engine. Reconnected and adjusted shifter cables again. Replaced the oil filler and empty bolts with the grand sport magnetic bolt set. Refilled the gearbox with oil.

Removed the old bitubo front shock and went to install the new sip performance front shock. Discovered as I went to install it that the LML swing arm casting where the shock mount goes is going to need some grinding of about 1mm to fit the new sip shock. The swing arm section that the shock mount grabs onto and is bolted to is the correct thickness, but the rear side wall that holds the bottom bolts square nut is cast with a too narrow Gap to the shock mounting section. So the shock lower mount can't slide into place as is. I'll just take the trusty Dremel to that small section of the swing arm until the shock can slide completely into place.

Also took a closer look at the new sip drt modified 24/24 carb I picked up months ago and noticed that the float passages were only opened to 1.8mm and not 2.0mm as the sip description implied. As mentioned on cm's thread, I'm going to drill that mj passage from float bowl open to 2.4mm to prevent fuel delivery restrictions.
That shock was probably designed to fit the Piaggio/Grimeca PX disc. There's a couple teeny tiny differences between the LML caliper carrier and the Grimeca. Nothing to do with bearings/seals/shim or backspacing (those are the same)...just a smidge bit different exterior shape in the casting (and couple of the fasteners are a little bit different shaped too)...as you found out. Nothing that can't be quickly fixed with a dremel though! That new shock should be a great upgrade.
Yeah I was just on SIP checking out the LML swing arm vs the piaggio and other swing arms designed for vespa. Seems the main casting difference is what I just discovered. The LML has that square bolt casting section behind the mounting arm whereas the vespa swing arms do not have anything cast behind the mounting arm.

Im excited to feel the difference on this practically new scooter. Aside from the engine performance being widely different, I've replaced all engine bushings and shock mount rubber bushings. Before when I was riding and would be in a turn and hit a bump, the engine felt like it was twisting away from the frame at a different angle. I believe that was the engine mount bushes and the rear shock mount rubber being worn which caused the twisting in frame. But I've also replaced both front and rear shocks from low tier bitubo standard shocks to new sip performance shocks with oil reserve and adjustability for all 3 aspects of shock.. preload, dampening and compression. I'm gonna have to figure out the best practice for tuning all 3 aspects of the shocks so that it rides best for my roads and style.

One other thing of note.. great that I did replace the front shock cause when I got under there to remove it, I noticed one of the two nuts holding the top plate to the fork had rattled off and went missing. That would have been a bad issue to discover out on the road at speed!
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Mon Mar 16, 2020 8:48 am quote
Front shock fits now. Carb float bowl passage drilled to 2.0mm.

The other thing I was thinking about these shocks hopefully being better is they should be stronger. The mount arms which bolt to the swing arm and engine are almost 6mm thick as opposed to the 2mm the bitubo has.

Edit: new front shock installed! Actually much easier to get the bolts that came with this sip shock in and out. Shock also I think slightly shorter than bitubo cause before I had to compress the front shock to get the bottom bolt that holds the Speedo and shock on, out. This new one went on and into place without needing to compress the crap out of everything. The only difference is with the oil reservoir, there is a very specific order of installation to get the shock in with the brake caliper on. So replacing the brake pads will take a little more work in thati need to remove those bottom bolts and slide the shock out of way of brake caliper bolts. But given no longer needing to compress everything, this should still be much easier than previously.

Also measured the bitubo shock mounting arm thickness to compare to the sip. Bitubo rear is like half a millimeter thicker than bitubo front, but a millimeter and a half thinner than sip. Sip front and rear shocks are same thickness. So in my book they are sturdier design just from that.

IMG_20200316_123217.jpg

IMG_20200316_124252.jpg

IMG_20200316_144145.jpg

IMG_20200316_145331.jpg

IMG_20200316_145358.jpg

Addicted
2007 Stella 150
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 549
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Mon Mar 16, 2020 5:51 pm quote
swiss1939 wrote:
Another full day off reserved just for this project, with all the electrical parts ready to go.

Got the pvc tube sleeving from mcmaster and carr. That worked great, although ideally I would have gotten slightly smaller tubes of it so that everything could fit better and less snug. It took hours to get the cables and wiring fed properly back into the handlebar/neck. I had to redo it a few times cause it was a jigsaw puzzle getting everything to fit in the right holes and not have issues. All said and done, I probably should redo it one more time as there is the slightest binding when handlebars are turned all the way left to the hard stop. Top left neck hole has a few wires or control cable outers that are getting pinched slightly when all the way left. I'm gonna leave it as is for now as I think it will only be a wear issue and not an issue with limiting range of movement.

As far as electrical routing, I made everything fit so much better as I fed all the wiring from both switches on either side handlebar through the tube hole and out the end of the tube where the connectors were connected, instead of having everything loose outside the tubes. You can see it in the photos attached. Top left hole in neck where the hydraulic brake line goes is where the pinching is happening on full left turn to just before hard stop.

I will admit, removing the handlebar/headset and dealing with the wiring harness then trying to get it all back in and fit properly is my least favorite task with these vespas by far. It sucks. Second least favorite has been the legshield trim install on the auto stella I had.

I would have had the engine running today, but as I was prepping to install the tank, I went to install the rubber fuel line grommet into the frame and ripped it cause it was old and brittle. So I ordered 3 more from scooterworks which now I have to wait 3-4 days to get before I can get the tank back in and run it.

I also got the shifter cables installed onto shifter box and got that stuff back on. First time doing it, took not long at all to get on there and a few extra minutes to adjust it properly so it wasn't so damn loose. Probably slightly too tight now cause handlebar gear marks were on at 1/N and a bit off at 3/4. Tried to correct that by tightening the cables using the screw adjuster nuts on the front of the shifter box.

And finally, got the glove box wiring cleaned up, everything plugged into gauges on the glovebox and re-installed the glovebox. Had some issues when plugging the fuel reserve light back in where it wasn't working, where I spent 1-2 hrs troubleshooting it then gave up and resigned myself to just leave it plugged in and deal with it not working for a while until the bike is running for a while and revisit it months down the line. So after I got the glovebox installed and plugged it back in.. damn thing worked. No clue what the issue was but its working. Two unexpected things about the very large temp gauge installed at the top of the glove box now... 1.) almost no space between it and the top glovebox screw mount, so it was a pain to get that nut back on and tightened. 2.) when the key is in ignition and turned on, it blocks half of the gauge with all my keychain/keys on it! So I will just have to keep the stella key separate from everything and just get a thin fabric lanyard that won't block my sight lines to half the gauge!

Remaining task list:

1.) swap old front shock for new
2.) swap old gearbox oil screw for new magnetic one and add gearbox oil
3.) finish installing all control cables.. install cable nipple on clutch and get dialed in.. get the rear brake cable adjusted/tightened to the brake mechanism.
4.) replace fuel line grommet and get the tank re-installed.
5.) install the stator/flywheel and set timing.
6.) drill hole in exhaust for egt sensor and re-install exhaust.
7.) install carb and get the damn thing running again!

NEW task to fix as a result of removing the handlebars a bunch of times without removing the hydraulic brake line:

1.) replace the speedo cable outer which is splitting visible spring interior.


BTW, if you guys missed it in the gen section... I mentioned in the COVID thread that my phone was blowing up all day from big group text of co-workers.. they evacuated my work building on 57th street in manhattan cause two people at another company on the 5th and 9th floor tested positive for the covid. We are on 17 and floors 12-19 have a different elevator bay on the other side of the lobby. Only one department I don't work in is on 11, which shares the same elevator bay as those positive people, and some of our guys on 11 come up to our floor regularly so they are all worried we all got it. I missed all the excitement. But I was supposed to work tomorrow and have friday off, then work for 10 days straight. Now the building is closed for at minimum next two days for decontamination. So I have the next two days off. I really wish I didn't rip that fuel grommet cause I'd be riding this scoot on my covid paid time off. Good thing I got all my critical parts from sip already as we can't get shipping from Europe anymore as a result of this.

This is the little bastard preventing me from getting this scoot running for a few more days:
https://www.scooterworks.com/Fuel-Line-Grommet-Most-Largeframe-Vespas-P4296.aspx
I'm looking at this headlight bulb, you've had yours torn apart, do you think this would squeeze in there? I guess I need to pull my cluster and measure. The wire hanging off the back means I wouldn't have to have the connection pointing straight back.
Addicted
Honda elite
Joined: 19 Jun 2007
Posts: 973
Location: California
Mon Mar 16, 2020 8:30 pm quote
Hey Swiss1939 it's going to be a new scooter with many good upgrades I'm excited as well you have taken us on a long journey. Can't wait to hear how it sounds in due course.
Jet Eye Master
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 1987
Location: London UK
Mon Mar 16, 2020 8:44 pm quote
Looking forward to actual running too. Shocks look cool. I plan to buy the same for mine.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Tue Mar 17, 2020 2:06 pm quote
Uh oh. I ran into an unforeseen problem that prevented me from running the engine at the last minute. I'm seeking advice as I have two options, both probably easy but one would require spending more time with electrical to convert to DC ignition.

Problem is.... When I went to install the stock LML flywheel and torqued it down properly, the auto start ring on the flywheel comes into contact with the engine case and torqued down just pinches the flywheel stuck to the case and preventing the engine from turning over.

I measured the thickness of the LML flywheel compared to my p200 flywheel and the LML one is almost exactly the thickness of the auto start ring wider.

Have any of you heard of this happening? I am hoping it's not a problem with installation of crankshaft which has rotated fine and been checked every which way I could think of before this.

If not a problem with crankshaft or installation of crankshaft, then it must be the shape of the crankshaft taper to flywheel.

Barring anything disastrous like that, I'm thinking my options are either knock the auto start gear off my stock LML flywheel and install it, or try installing the new sip vape ignition which would require spending time to change the wiring to DC only as I bought the variable DC kit.

Looking for guidance before I start f'ing things up.

In meantime, I think I'm going to remove the LML stator and try to mount both the p200 and the vape flywheels just to make sure that both of those flywheels without auto start gearing can mount freely and not contact the case.

IMG_20200317_173839.jpg
Lml

IMG_20200317_173938.jpg
Lml auto start ring

IMG_20200317_174005.jpg
P200

IMG_20200317_174208.jpg
Contact between auto start ring and case

Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Tue Mar 17, 2020 3:12 pm quote
I think my answer is apparent from mounting the new vape ignition flywheel to the engine.

No contact and rotates freely. Looks like I'm gonna have to spend tomorrow figuring out DC wiring conversion and quadruple checking my ignition timing setup before running. Scary times! Making a leap of faith with the variable DC ignition. Any advice greatly appreciated.

Now I really wish I had measured the new crankshaft fly side stub length before I installed it to compare with the LML original. I wonder if the LML is 4 mm longer to account for the autostart ring.

IMG_20200317_191018.jpg
Vape flywheel no problem

Ossessionato
05 Stella, '62 VBB, 76 Sprint V, 63 GL
Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Posts: 2509
Location: Chicago. Well, Evanston, but that's almost Chicago
Tue Mar 17, 2020 5:51 pm quote
I've had to grind down either the starter ring or the side of the cylinder pretty much every time I've run an electric start flywheel.

If you have an angle grinder, you can grind down the teeth along the inside of the electric start ring where it's rubbing. I've done that on a P200E system I put on a Stella motor, and have also cut the bottom-most cooling fin off the cylinder a few times, too.

I've also had to grind down the bits of the lip around the flywheel in a couple cases, too.

As best I can tell, while the geometry of these motors is generally consistent over various makes and models, it's not perfectly consistent and thus will require adjustments with an angle grinder from time to time.
Addicted
2007 Stella 150
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 549
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Tue Mar 17, 2020 6:02 pm quote
chandlerman wrote:
I've had to grind down either the starter ring or the side of the cylinder pretty much every time I've run an electric start flywheel.

If you have an angle grinder, you can grind down the teeth along the inside of the electric start ring where it's rubbing. I've done that on a P200E system I put on a Stella motor, and have also cut the bottom-most cooling fin off the cylinder a few times, too.

I've also had to grind down the bits of the lip around the flywheel in a couple cases, too.

As best I can tell, while the geometry of these motors is generally consistent over various makes and models, it's not perfectly consistent and thus will require adjustments with an angle grinder from time to time.
My DR kit had two fins ground down for clearance.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Tue Mar 17, 2020 6:05 pm quote
Fins are fine on this kit as they cast it with a cutout for the auto start. My vape kit mounts fine. I'll be going with that option tomorrow if I can get the electrical conversion done.

Thanks Chandlerman. I had a feeling the fit is differences in manufacturers. I thought about grinding the case down and about grinding a ring cutout around the flywheel but I didn't want to alter the cases and grinding the flywheel seems too much work and will be sloppy. So I'll give up on the auto start and stick the variable ignition on it.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Wed Mar 18, 2020 9:09 am quote
updated the SIP variable dc thread of chandlerman with progress as that thread is more appropriate for the updates. But to summarize.. vape flywheel and stator on. ignition set to 17 degrees. wiring to follow tomorrow.

http://modernvespa.com/forum/post2391233#2391233
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Tue Mar 24, 2020 7:07 pm quote
Ok it's been almost a week since i started getting daily emails from hr at work that people were testing positive on my floor at work and i started having mild covid symptoms of sore throat with slight dry cough, headaches, sore back and chest, with shortness of breath and chest pressure anytime i did anything that raised my breathing above resting. Never had a fever thankfully. I took that as a sign to stay inside, on the couch and watch Netflix for a week. Finally starting to improve today enough to put up my last vhs shelf and start building my own DML Atmos ceiling speaker panels from xps sheets. If these ceiling speakers work, I'll eventually replace my tiny center channel speaker with a large sheet of xps and two exciters for one large center channel hung above my tv.

I'll give it another day at home so i can finish these dml speakers and hang them from the ceiling, and if my symptoms keep slowly going down, I'll finally get back out in the garage again later this week between work shifts.

Speaking of, cbs has me finally working again editing our 1hr daily show Thursday and Friday from home while the host tapes his own segments in his home studio for me to prep those segments for broadcast. Saturday and Sunday I'll be starting on their nfl draft shows from home.

Interesting times editing from home over premiere pro on a work computer using remote desktop through vpn! Talk about lag!

Photos of the dml speaker panels for Atmos ceiling speakers and the exciters I'm using. Sorry no scooter updates, but they will be coming soon.

If you haven't seen this guys videos, he's got some great content and is a really smart guy that explains things extremely well.
https://youtu.be/CKIye4RZ-5k

Btw, Staten Island has the highest positive tested covid residents per capita in NYC. I couldn't get tested cause my symptoms were mild and they only test people who need to be hospitalized due to shortage of PPE for medical professionals.

IMG_20200324_185710_01.jpg
Dml speaker panels. Two pairs. Square and rounded make up one channel of atmos height hung from ceiling and wired in series.

IMG_20200324_190357_01.jpg
Exciters used mounted to back of those xps panels.



Last edited by swiss1939 on Tue Mar 24, 2020 7:51 pm; edited 1 time in total
Molto Verboso
08 GTS 250, 79 P200E, 62 Allstate
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 1561
Location: Florence, OR
Tue Mar 24, 2020 7:30 pm quote
Damn, glad you're OK Swiss!
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Tue Mar 24, 2020 7:43 pm quote
Thanks qas! Unfortunately i might have passed it on to a friend who is high risk with Crohn's before they had people test positive on my floor, or i showed any symptoms or knew you could spread without symptoms. So I'm hoping that those few people i hung out with prior to symptoms who are also showing mild symptoms for a week don't get worse in the next few days. I'll feel less worried about them in another week or so if they start to improve as well.
Molto Verboso
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 1217
Location: california
Tue Mar 24, 2020 8:23 pm quote
Yikes.
Crazy times.
Glad mostly mild.
I suspect we all vacillate between fear and - this isn't so bad - depending on the last story we heard.
Only bad for elderly.
Guy in perfect health at 40 is on a ventilator.
Gonna pass by summer.
Southern Hemisphere is in summer and locking down due to outbreaks.
We're gonna be fine.
Italy and NY are on fire.

How does anyone make a decision with such vacillating data.
This is worse then jetting a carburetor...
With an air leak.
I digress.

Swiss - take care of yourself and don't stress the lungs with fine particulate matter - like say - from MDF speaker boxes.

Also - I think your timing is set too aggressively - others can pipe up.
If it is variable - I would think you want it more retarded at idle - 24-26 degrees - so it advances to 17-18 when reved.

Chandler man has been the Vape master - perhaps he can clarify if I have that wrong.

Be well
-CM
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Tue Mar 24, 2020 8:33 pm quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Swiss - take care of yourself and don't stress the lungs with fine particulate matter - like say - from MDF speaker boxes.
Funny after I got done with sanding down those foam panels by hand without a mask today, I texted a friend and said I probably did way more damage to my lungs inhaling all that foam dust than COVID did!
charlieman22 wrote:
Also - I think your timing is set too aggressively - others can pipe up.
If it is variable - I would think you want it more retarded at idle - 24-26 degrees - so it advances to 17-18 when reved.
I think you might have it backwards, at least what I thought is that I currently have it set conservatively safe. at idle it is 18 degrees. as it revs up, it retards to like 13 degrees... which is safer. advanced timing at higher revs is what causes pre-ignition/seizes. overly retarded timing reduces piston heat, but shifts all that heat into the exhaust as EGT temps higher which can cause another type of seize when the contrast between EGT (exhaust temps) and CHT (piston temps) are too great. But to be clear, I've understood from conversations and reading over the past 6-8 months that when in doubt, retard ignition timing because it is safer.

Regardless, you are right and Jack has already mentioned that I should be up at 24-26 at idle and 17-18 at peak rpm. I just didn't get a chance to adjust that yet as I was sidelined. I will make that change when I get back out there.

Thanks for the wishes. This just about 40 yr old with no underlying conditions and decent but not great health individual survived so far with mild symptoms, but many might not. It's the lottery of life. Hope everyone on the west coast and in UK/elsewhere around the world is healthy. Enjoy your lives, and eventually we can all go for a ride some day on our well tuned jack approved scooters! Maybe I'll make some Jack221 stickers for everyone to slap on their cylinder shrouds like malossi and all those other companies! ha! I imagine it in junkrat rip-tire style (for those of you who have played overwatch)!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R-v0c06J6J4
Hooked
1984 PX(BGM187)EFL
Joined: 14 Apr 2017
Posts: 366
Location: Cornwall UK
Tue Mar 24, 2020 10:38 pm quote
Glad you're OK Swiss; I'd seen that New York was particularly dense with cases. You might now be better off if you've had it; shame you couldn't be tested. I'm in an area sparse with cases, except that when we shut our schools last week all the Londoners with second homes down here decided it was the perfect time for a holiday in Cornwall and we went up by 250% in two days - arseholes.
Like CM says, it's difficult to know how seriously to take it, especially if you consider yourself to be fit, but keeping busy indoors like your speaker project seems the best thing for now; the scoots will still be there (hopefully) when the worst is past.
No point taking risks, burdening the system, bringing it home, or passing it on to others who might not be able to fight it off so well. Time to behave responsibly.
Hooked
P Series / Li / LML / Motobi
Joined: 24 Jun 2019
Posts: 316
Location: UK - 3rd Rock From the Sun
Wed Mar 25, 2020 6:09 am quote
Glad you are ok

there will be more of us passing this thing on without realising it. so best not to beat oneself up over it.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Wed Mar 25, 2020 6:31 pm quote
Dml celling mounted Atmos speakers finished. Blu-ray copy of mad Max fury road black and chrome edition with Atmos is amazing. But i just arrived in a matter of minutes that Disney plus' Atmos content is not Atmos but fake Atmos. They don't send a true Atmos signal to stereo receiver.

Hopefully have some time in the next few days between work shifts to get back in the garage now that I'm done with all indoor chores and feeling better.

IMG_20200325_212120_01.jpg
Height channel speakers for Atmos content. Pretty damn good surround sound now!

IMG_20200325_222100.jpg
Immortan joe pouring water on the peasants.

Molto Verboso
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 1217
Location: california
Wed Mar 25, 2020 6:50 pm quote
Upstairs neighbors must be overjoyed

🙂
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Wed Mar 25, 2020 7:40 pm quote
No one upstairs. Top floor of two floor house. Downstairs neighbor is an old guy that just gets high on medical marijuana every day so I'm good!

Btw total speaker cost for Atmos ceiling channels...
$45 for 4 exciters.
$20 for the xps foam.
Bottle of wood glue and some hooks with string

Beats the hell out of $3-400 per Atmos speaker. Ha!
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Tue Apr 07, 2020 2:04 pm quote
3 Weeks since I've worked on the scooter and I'm finally updating this thread as a few of you guys have messaged asking if I'm ok as I've been AFK for a while on everyone's threads. As mentioned, after that first weekend from when work evacuated, I did a bunch of stuff on the scooter in the garage, but started to feel mild symptoms and was exhausted so I stopped going out into the garage. Never got any serious symptoms but I was tired a lot and had mild chest pressure when breathing heavier than casual so I avoided any physical work beyond just walking around my apartment.

Two weeks after that symptoms finally started to go away, but I had spent so much time inside that I started doing all the indoor tasks I had never gotten to on my list, mostly computer related stuff, setting up a linux box with some asset management software to keep track of my massive library of over 70TB of shot footage in 4K, and some other stuff. Then work got me working from home this past week which was extremely busy cause only a few of us have remote access and internet fast enough to edit video remotely on machines at work.

So that brings us to today, 3 weeks since working on the scooter at all, and 4 weeks since symptoms/covid world altering events. Today was my first day "off" again and finally feeling great, with really nice weather in the mid 60's! So I went out to garage, pulled the stella out of the garage onto the sidewalk into the sun and got a slow start on the dc conversion to get back into the scooter mindset.

I took everyone's notes on my poor choice of timing setup for the variable ignition. Jack says 25 degrees T mark for an 18 degree max power at 8000 rpm. I decided to set it up slightly less than that, at 24 degrees, to be cautious (however cautious 1 degree is). The sip vape ignition system is so freaking easy to set up timing compared to the LML. You take the flywheel fins off the magnet, do your degree wheel stuff with the fins off, and line it up with the "timing" mark on the stator and flywheel magneto. The bottom stator markers that match up with the case timing markers are set up to be 1 degree per mark which makes it quick and easy. I just counted the notches on the plate I needed to move it to, moved it, then cross checked the timing using the "timing" mark on the magneto and it was exactly as desired at 24. Lining that up to the dotted "timing" line on the vape curve means I should have about approx 22 degrees at idle, 25 degrees at 3500 and 18 degrees at 8000 rpm. BTW, I ended up ordering the ignition mounting hardware from SIP and getting it delivered over the few weeks down time! Didn't feel like spending time fabricating a plate.

The other things I did today was remove the starter motor since I can't use it anymore with this flywheel, and hooked up the engine side wiring to the new HT coil then buttoned up everything on the engine side for now. Never got to the battery side dc conversion wiring today cause my phone died and I was referencing my post on the sip electronic ignition thread as to the wire colors to line up to. I wanted to sit down on computer comparing wiring diagrams again to take notes and make sure I know exactly what I need to change on the battery side first before cutting wires and moving things around. Working from home tomorrow through saturday, but not till 3pm on thurs and fri so I will hopefully finish off the dc conversion on battery side then.

Other than that.. only thing left is to tap the hole in the exhaust for EGT sensor, mount the exhaust, reconnect clutch and brake cables then fire this bitch up finally 10 months later! Slow and steady!

IMG_20200407_172105.jpg
looking good now. I was thinking maybe some day i'll get the flywheel fins powder coated some crazy color! autostart cable left hanging loose. I covered it with self adhesive tape so it wouldn't short.

IMG_20200407_172112.jpg
dc vape ht coil wired to the stella harness. tried to hide the extra leftover wires inside the plastic wiring box so they wouldn't be dangling all over.

Ossessionato
2015 GTS300, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 4424
Location: San Diego, CA
Tue Apr 07, 2020 6:35 pm quote
glad you are doing OK and back at it!
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu Apr 09, 2020 7:23 pm quote
dc conversion "done" now. I say "done" because there is a problem I need to figure out and solve, which causes a loud buzzing noise when power on but engine not on. I posted that in the sip dc conversion thread to keep some of that information over with related information, but will detail everything here as well.


I followed Chandlerman's dc conversion wiring diagram for the stella and it works. I cut the pigtail with ring connector off the black wire coming across bike from engine to stock ac regulator, attached the new sip connector for that black wire to dc regulator black and used the ring connector with pigtail removed as the dc regulator chassis ground with included connector. I also connected the stella yellow wire to dc regulator other black wire as those two yellow and black coming from engine are the ac signal from stator/magneto. red wire out of dc regulator I connected to the stella original orange wire which is the dc line feed. this wire already had a splitoff connecting to battery positive so i just reused everything on the orange wire in same spots, but now connected to dc regulator red wire. dc regulator brown wire is the battery negative connection, so I made my own black wire with ring connector on one end and vape included plastic connector other end to make that connection to dc regulator brown. Finally, as is detailed in chandlerman's conversion diagram, I connected the stock stella violet and gray wires to each other to connect the stock dc and ac lines together so everything is now powered through the orange wire through ignition into the violet wire then back around into the gray ac line. So that is how it was done.

On to some details and questions still up in the air for me unrelated to the buzzing sound.

1.) I think V oodoo will approve of my decision to reuse the 1 position plastic connectors and spade connector receptors that I removed previously from the engine side junction box connections that were remapped the other day for new ht coil/stator. This might be my first true bodge... opened up the metal connector crimps on the shielding pulled the wires out as far as I could and cut the bare wires at the point they get crimped. Then put new wires in and crimped the shielding back in, then soldered the bare wires to the connectors as I couldn't get the tiny crimped section open and voila! violet and gray now safely connected.

2.) the original wiring had 5 wires through the bike from stator to cdi back to ht coil and the autostart/cutoff switch. two of them I know are useless, red and white as those connect directly from stator to ht coil included in vape kit. blue I know is not needed as that was the wire that fed from cdi to ht coil, the new one connects directly between the ht coil and stator on engine side. green wire also know for a fact it is not needed as it connects from stator to ht coil as well. the 1 remaining wire that Im not sure if I need to do anything with is the green white wire that went from original cdi to ignition/kill switch. Currently that is just a spare wire disconnected on engine and battery side like the rest from that original cdi connection.

Finally, the issue related to it, even though it works.. constant buzzing noise as soon as power is on. Not sure what is causing it. It is coming from the rear of the bike either engine or from battery area. Could be the cut out relay? the Vape ht coil/cdi? the flasher buzzer (although I don't think it is that cause that makes noise separately when flashers on)? Just not sure what it is. Also the flasher relay needs replacing. I thought it would work fine as I already swapped from the original ac flasher relay to a dc led flasher relay, but I guess that isn't correct as the blinkers flash wicked fast now.
https://youtu.be/emuZOthsZ-w

Other than that, this thing is practically ready to fire up now. Just gotta tap the EGT probe hole in exhaust, mount it, connect the clutch and brake cables and then start it up. Part of me thinks the buzzing sound is something that should be fixed, but not going to damage anything and I should try starting the engine tomorrow regardless of the buzzing.

IMG_20200409_201202.jpg
pigtail with ring connector originally attached also to the black wire to stock cdi and grounded to chassis. this now grounds dc regulator separately.

IMG_20200409_200519.jpg
yellow and black wire (same one pigtail removed from) are the ac feed from vape stator.

IMG_20200409_200557.jpg
orange from stella connects to red/dc out from dc regulator. also connects to battery positive.

IMG_20200409_201221.jpg
new pigtail created to connect dc regulator brown wire to battery negative terminal.

IMG_20200409_201408.jpg
as you can see brown negative wire from dc regulator will join with the battery negative wiring harness ring terminal.

IMG_20200409_201248.jpg
the pigtail cut off from black wire now connects to spade connector on regulator to be grounded to chassis.

IMG_20200409_202454.jpg
yellow and black to black/back regulator, orange to red regulator.

IMG_20200409_204009.jpg
i broke the cheap 8amp fuse holder in the bike. replaced it with a modern fuse holder with 15amp fuse

IMG_20200409_204125.jpg
V oodoo should approve of this bodge. reuse terminals cut off the harness on the engine side.

IMG_20200409_204136.jpg
pry those suckers open to get at the old cable.

IMG_20200409_204751.jpg
cleaned out and ready to reuse.

IMG_20200409_205514.jpg
re-crimped to violet and gray. I soldered them after this.

IMG_20200409_210237.jpg
violet now connects to gray to turn the AC line into DC.

IMG_20200409_214314.jpg
everything tucked back away with battery reconnected

IMG_20200409_202932.jpg
original cdi/ht coil wires that go from engine to battery side. unused and unsure if I need to connect the kill switch wire to anything.

IMG_20200409_202915.jpg
so I figured best place for these is to tuck them in this little hiding spot.

IMG_20200409_203511.jpg
out of sight, out of mind. now on to solving the buzzing sound problem.

Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Fri Apr 10, 2020 7:12 am quote
So as per Rob Hodge on fb and ginch here, I've most likely sent dc to stator plate and accidentally demagnetized the flywheel. I'll have to go out remove the flywheel and check that it's demagnetized to confirm this but it's looking like that is the case.

After reading Hodges suggestion that i sent dc to the stator by connecting the ac lines to dc somewhere leading into the stator i went back to Chandlermans updated wiring diagram and realized on hindsight that is the case as his diagram reused the original black wire from the stock stator to stock cdi. That black wire in the harness also connects to the bike ac system as it acts as the negative signal for the ac line. Now that my ac line is dc, i connected the black line to the correct ac spot on the regulator, but didn't account for the fact that it also connects to the ac line in the bike, so it's getting dc to stator by way of it's backend connection to the original ac line that is now dc.

The fix should be easy.. just use one of the spare stock cdi wires that is tucked away unused instead of the black line to connect stator to regulator. This isolates the ac from stator to ac on regulator. Then leave the black line disconnected on the engine side and on the battery side move the connection to the grounding spade and rewire the grounding pigtail back to the black line so that the original black ac negative line now is grounded to chassis.

But now the remaining issue if this proves true.. my flywheel most likely demagnetized. Send it out to get magnetized or buy a new one. Cost is about the same. Also, could the stator or the regulator be damaged as well? I'll have to wait and see. Each part is not terribly expensive. Hoping it's only the flywheel, but if one of the other items needs replacing as well it's around $100 in parts. Not the most expensive fail I've done on this project.

Edit: confirmed demagnetized. Lesson #3401 on how not to do things and spend money twice.

With that said.. I know of scooter west does magnetizing, but it costs $65 plus their shipping across country is way overpriced.. so I've calculated it to cost more than just buying a new one from SIP and getting shipped to NYC. I've put in a query to Gickspeed to see if he can do it and what his cost is cause he has been priced well including shipping for my rebore and a separate parts order of the bgm clutch. If not him then I will probably just buy a new one from SIP along with a new stator, regulator and maybe ht coil. I'm not exactly sure if I damaged these other components as a result, so my theory is that if I just purchase them all, I can swap the new flywheel magnet drum onto the bike and leave all the other stuff on and see if it runs and this will tell me if the regulator/stator and ht coil are still good. If not, then I will swap one component at a time to see which of them is broken if any or all. Hopefully nothing else is damaged out of those three items and I can just store the extra parts away for my P200 rebuild project. Then I've just replaced only the magnet drum on this bike and pre-emptively purchased individual components of a second vape kit which will eventually end up on the P200 engine. I am approaching CM22 level over-purchasing of parts.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Fri Apr 10, 2020 4:49 pm quote
Ordered a new flywheel magnet center section, stator and regulator just in case those were damaged. If the current ones are still good, I'll use the extras on P200. Another week wait! Slow and steady is the turtle.
Molto Verboso
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 1217
Location: california
Fri Apr 10, 2020 8:47 pm quote
Quote:
I am approaching CM22 level over-purchasing of parts.
This is one of those fallacies that people believe - cause it FEELS right - but in fact is empirically incorrect.
Let's have a look.

It's simple maths really - and it is all about the knowledge base.
This can best be shown as a ratio depicting the value of the money spent.
The ratio is:

knowledge built & joy had: dollars spent

The higher the ratio - the better - tho if you get too high - you will hear pinging - unless you are in the UK - in which case you will hear pinking - which can also happen if you are too high or listen to too much Pink Floyd.

Now - on the surface - that may seem self evident - but if you take the time to do the calcs - it might surprise you. Your ratio is actually really good!
Think of it like Cricket. No one REALLY understands the scoring.

Let's look at some of the components first - then - since it has been raised a few times... - I'll use my own numbers to create an example.
Lets start with the components.

Knowledge base: Obviously - there is a value in knowledge built - this forum itself is based on it - so no need to beat that one to death.
In simple terms - knowledge makes your scooter go faster more reliably while looking good and giving you joy - and we all love that!
This can be shown as a number between 1 and 10 - 10 being the guys we always ask help from! and 1 being you and me when we posted our first post.

Time: It takes time to build your knowledge base - and the longer you have your scoot - the more you spend - but it is only corollary. Some with great knowledge are able to minimize their spending through crafty fixes.

Dollars spent: Well - there is always a rub.

There are of course corollaries. If you have 5 scoots, you had to pay for each - and upkeep them, however, you do get some offset to your ratio from joy and knowledge base.

Time is another one - after all - longer you have them the more you spend - but this curve too can be flattened.

Time: in my case - its spread over about 1 year.
Knowledge base: I am going to give myself a 6. If I count welding - perhaps a 7 on a good day.
Dollars spent: well - I only paid $3K for my scoot with sidecar. Since then - I spent an additional TRUCK LOADS.

So if we now put that in to the equation where:
Knowledge learned - time spent / Money = I have a great ratio!
Did I just change the equation?
Of course I did!
I told you I am not a maths guy.

The lesson here is - things are not always as they seem - and - CM can spin a tale.

Your project is looking good! and I just learned that you can demagnetize a damn flywheel - which seems - well - like another scooter fallacy...

🙂
-CM
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sat Apr 11, 2020 6:01 am quote
ha that made me laugh. I'm enjoying it and I've said it before.. while it stings when you gotta spend more money.. I'm not looking at this as a financial transaction to come out on top, this is something I enjoy and want to learn about so to me I see it as the equivalent to going out to a bar or to a baseball game and spending tons of money on that regularly. I don't do that. I do this. So it is worth it to me. That post was in good fun, but you make a lot of great points that I 100% agree with. My comment was also in good fun as I recognize you are also enjoying the shit out of all this. Believe me, I'm right behind you in wanting to try every one of those parts some day! I'm just a bit behind in my mechanical and electrical knowledge than most you guys as I've literally never touched an engine or done anything like this before this scooter. So I read everyone's posts and see things getting done mostly painless.. then I get back out there and take my baby steps that get derailed by stupid failures over and over and I'm like "Come on! Just work goddammit!".

And reminder, I got this scooter for free. Paid zero for it. Since then.. buckets of money into it. So purely on a ROI view, I'm at the point where I probably paid top dollar for this scooter that would make others cringe, but I got a scooter that (if I can ever get it on the road again) is fast, fun and greatly improved over stock, with the learned experience and knowledge that will hopefully stick with me to make all these other projects go much more smooth. My only regret... I probably should have bought the second scooter and rebuilt that first, before tearing this one apart. At least that way I'd still be riding something for the past 10 months.

With that said, this thread and build is getting long in the tooth for me. I'm at the point I just want it done and running. Can't wait to get on the road and safe in the knowledge that it is working (at least mostly correct not counting jetting).
Addicted
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: 24 Apr 2012
Posts: 816
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
Sat Apr 11, 2020 7:46 am quote
Did you try to find an car alternator and starter repair shop near you? They re-magnetized flywheels.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sat Apr 11, 2020 8:08 am quote
rowdyc wrote:
Did you try to find an car alternator and starter repair shop near you? They re-magnetized flywheels.
I did not yet.. I'm sure I can probably find one around here that does. The question is if they can handle one this small compared to car ones which im sure are bigger. Also the question of if it is affordable in nyc. I will wait on that though with the pandemic shutdown going on, rather not be running around doing unnecessary tasks.

But my hope was that I bought new one with the new stator and regulator and I will only need to use the flywheel drum right now, the other two things i hope are still good. Then later on down the line, I'll have the spare stator and regulator and the demagnetized flywheel drum which I can then find someone local to re-magnetize it, and i'll have almost all the parts for a complete second set of vape variable ignition for another engine sitting around waiting to be worked on. None of it will hopefully be wasted.
Ossessionato
1980 P200E , 2005 Stella 177
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2023
Location: Staten Island, NY
Tue Apr 21, 2020 7:11 am quote
Ugh! I just waited 2 weeks for my shipment from SIP to get a new flywheel magnet. I thought something was strange cause they re-billed me for an extra $60 to ship Fedex when I only ordered 3 things that should have been under the normal $24 shipping fee they charged. So I spent $80 to ship an approximate $100 order. I chalked that up to price gouging by fedex during the pandemic.

Cut to today when the box finally arrived 2 weeks later and im excited to finally get this F'n scooter running. Open up the box and found out the reason they charged me $80 for it. They sent me a whole box of 12 flywheel magnet drums instead of just 1. The SIP packer clearly didn't know what was going on and just put the whole box in cause the sticker with the part number was on the exterior of the box, not on the individual drums so they assumed the whole box was one part. What makes it worse is that none of the magnet drums are f'n magnetized!!!!!!!!!! Such a tease. So now I'm stuck at ground zero still with no magnetized flywheel but I got a $1200 box of 12 spare drums.

So frustrated.

IMG_20200421_110725.jpg

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