Updating the electrical system
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Honda elite
Joined: 19 Jun 2007
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Location: California
Sun Aug 25, 2019 11:58 am quote
We need help with wiring. The scooter is a 1980 Bajaj Chetak with original low use wiring that actually looks pretty darn good considering. This scooter came with almost all the bells and whistles a 1980 P200 had minus a turn signal indicator but it also came with points and 6 volts.

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This is a standard P200 stator

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There are 6 wires coming to the engine. GREEN is for the nuetral sensor and BLACK is ground/earth. YELLOW seems to go directly to key switch BLUE goes to Diode. WHITE goes to battery + the others I need help with.

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this is a junction in the battery cowl with glass fuses and terminal block.

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I do not see a regulator but maybe something is with the silicon diode I do not know.

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Bajaj Chetak wiring schematic. It was suggested since everything is original and in good condition to maintain all the systems just add 12v battery, regulator and bulbs. We do not know how to make the connections and regulate the power. Only 2 wires comin



Last edited by hibbert on Mon Sep 02, 2019 9:06 am; edited 1 time in total
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Mon Sep 02, 2019 8:56 am quote
Looking at the Lavender colored wire going from the kill switch/Ignition switch, does this wire perform the same function as the green wire on the P200 which goes the the CDI to kill the engine?

If I am using the traditional P200 CDI would the lavender wire provide the engine kill circuit?

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GL, PK, PE200
Joined: 24 Apr 2012
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Mon Sep 02, 2019 9:53 am quote
The stator in the picture above is non battery European PX 90 watt with a single power wire. I don't know how you can use it with a battery.
It seems the lavender wire is for the kill switch and prob the same as green on P.
That brown wire was connected to the fuse box from the key switch but you can run continuity check with a multimeter to verify.
What's your objective in updating the electrical system? Do you want to go 12v AC, or convert like a P with AC and DC?
You can try to use this non battery P diagram along with the Bajaj diagram to hook up the 12v stator without a battery but you will need a regulator and get rid of the diodes. You will need to change the bulbs, brake switch, and change or modify the handle switch to work with 12v vs 6v. If you keep the turn signals, a different flasher is needed.http://www.scooterhelp.com/electrics/wiring/VSX1T.no.battery.pdf
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Mon Sep 02, 2019 10:11 am quote
Thanks Rowdy that changed my thought process. The intention if possible maintain (as much as possible) the original wiring with battery and 12 volts. So far the only circuits I understand are the kill (LAVENDER) and the Neutral switch (BLACK/GREEN) leaving a WHITE wire a YELLOW wire and a pair of BLUE wires at the engine junction. Looks like YELLOW heads up to Key Switch, WHITE goes to the positive side of the Battery and the blue pairs go to the Diodes it seems. I do not know what this means.

Is there an alternative stator plate to support the Bajaj AC/DC system? What is needed for the regulator is the Vespa/Piaggio P200 type or the new small BGM type the best choice? Already have a new signal flasher.

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GL, PK, PE200
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Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
Mon Sep 02, 2019 10:34 am quote
I'm not familiar with the Baja motor and not sure what type of crank was used on them. Does the current P stator fit on the crank you have now? If so, you can try the P stator http://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Complete-Stators/186147.
The one in your picture above looks like this one. http://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Complete-Stators/217866

Bajaj has a 12v conversion if its the old type crank but that's a different animal easily found with a search. Of course the more expensive variable timing kits is an option for older cranks. Most just convert to AC without a battery using other methods.

I'm just recently getting a better idea of these old electric systems and someone may come along with proven options.
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Mon Sep 02, 2019 10:46 am quote
Left out the detail about the engine having 60mm with P taper crankshaft. Using the 1600g flywheel and a traditional electronic type stator plate. Wasn't necessarily looking to go variable ignition but if we need to shop for something more appropriate few extra pennies might not be so bad. Suggestions welcome.

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GL, PK, PE200
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Mon Sep 02, 2019 10:48 am quote
[quote="hibbert" Looks like YELLOW heads up to Key Switch, WHITE goes to the positive side of the Battery and the blue pairs go to the Diodes it seems. I do not know what this means.[/quote]

I maybe wrong but YELLOW grounds when the key turns on so the stator can provide electricity. BLUE provide electricity to bike lights. In diagram goes to diodes but after conversion goes to regulator. WHITE maybe electricity from the battery but after conversion goes to regulator. This is all a semi uneducated guess as I've never worked on this type of electrical. Still not sure of all the components running off the battery. I would have to pull out the multimeter and run test.

Stay with the P electrics since you said you have the P crank.
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Honda elite
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Mon Sep 02, 2019 10:55 am quote
I think there is a fair amount of DOT DC lighting in this scooter.
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GL, PK, PE200
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Mon Sep 02, 2019 12:16 pm quote
Here's my theory for connection.

With this stator http://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Complete-Stators/186147 and using this diagram http://www.scooterhelp.com/electrics/wiring/VSX1T.no.battery.pdf should get you close to what you want.

For spark: The stator's red, white, and green wires with single connection goes to the CDI. Lavender from wiring harness goes to green slot in CDI.

For Lights: The stator lighting wires are in the white multi-connector. Separate wires or hookup another multi connector with the correct wiring path.
The red wire from the stator connects to the WHITE wire from the harness and should go to the battery via a new fuse connection.
The blue wire from the stator is AC for headlights and goes to the BLUE wire from the harness. The BLUE wire should go to the regulator for AC power.
The yellow wire from the stator is unregulated AC into regulator for DC power out and should connect to the other BLUE wire.
The black from stator is ground.

Prob wrong but my head hurts after looking at diagrams. Somewhere the I think some wires should get spliced and re-connected. Someone that's done this should correct my theory.
There was a scootershop in the US that had an easy wiring harness connection for p motors in older bikes but can't remember who.
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PX125E
Joined: 06 Oct 2018
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Location: Gravesend, Kent, UK
Mon Sep 02, 2019 6:11 pm quote
the wires from the PX Stator. The Red, White and Green go to the CDI.
The Violet wire from the kill switch goes to the other green terminal of the CDI

The black and blue wires from the PX Stator with the connector on the end go to the G, G terminals of a Vespa five terminal regulator.

The white wire which goes to the fuse block connects to the +B terminal of the Regulator.

The yellow wire connects to the C Terminal of the regulator. (The regulator also needs a terminal connected to the Chassis).

The Brown wire inside the panel with the diodes should be red and connects the Battery to the fuses.

Ignore the blue wires to the Diodes. They acted as a full wave rectifier in conjunction with the centre tapped magneto coil.

The brown wire in your hand in the photo below the PX stator looks like it connects to the chassis terminal crimp.
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Thu Sep 05, 2019 2:52 pm quote
Thanks Rowdy and Worrywort!

Wow can I use a BGM 4 pin regulator?

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PX125E
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Thu Sep 05, 2019 3:09 pm quote
Hello. Yes you can. Join the yellow and whit wires together.
The only risk is if you leave the lights on the battery will go flat.

If That was my scooter i would go all AC and leave the Battery on the shelf, along with my Sat Nav, Mobile phone, Kirby Trouser press and Lady-Shave,
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Thu Sep 05, 2019 3:22 pm quote
darn it now I'm confused again. I do not plan to use any other devices what is a Kirby Trouser?

Why connect the AC and DC together? Seems AC in from stator (Blue/black) AC out (YELLOW harness) and DC out (WHITE) to battery.

I don't know why it's a good idea to change to all AC other than no battery. Is more alteration required to go full AC?
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PX125E
Joined: 06 Oct 2018
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Location: Gravesend, Kent, UK
Thu Sep 05, 2019 3:25 pm quote
Nooooo. Not that yellow and white. The other ones.

Update: see my reply below. Sorry for the confusion.

Last edited by worrywort on Fri Sep 06, 2019 4:04 am; edited 1 time in total
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Thu Sep 05, 2019 3:31 pm quote
O
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GL, PK, PE200
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Thu Sep 05, 2019 3:39 pm quote
Here in the US the headlights have to be on when the bike is running and AC is whats on US P series headlights so they don't stay on when bike is off. DC is used for the turn signals to make them work better. AC turn signals work OK but not a good as when they have a 12 volt DC current coming from the battery.
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PX125E
Joined: 06 Oct 2018
Posts: 136
Location: Gravesend, Kent, UK
Thu Sep 05, 2019 3:40 pm quote
Hello.
Reading you post I assumed you wanted a 12V Battery on your scooter.

If you donít (And you obviously donít have a Kirby Trouser press). Then fit a simple regulator, AC Horn and Indicator relay.
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PX125E
Joined: 06 Oct 2018
Posts: 136
Location: Gravesend, Kent, UK
Thu Sep 05, 2019 4:37 pm quote
hibbert wrote:
darn it now I'm confused again. I do not plan to use any other devices what is a Kirby Trouser?

Why connect the AC and DC together? Seems AC in from stator (Blue/black) AC out (YELLOW harness) and DC out (WHITE) to battery.

I don't know why it's a good idea to change to all AC other than no battery. Is more alteration required to go full AC?
Hello Mate. Letís step back and look at what we have here on the stator.

The old system has three circuits. The Ignition which has a coil, Points and condenser.

A second coil which feeds the lights via a yellow wire. ( Iím not going to include every item on the circuit as theyíre already wired together).

A Third coil with a Diode on each end and a White wire in the middle. This is an AC circuit which crudely converts AC to DC, for the Battery.

The PX Stator has two circuits. One has coils and a sensor dedicated to the Ignition.

The other one is an AC output which goes to the regulator. Thatís it.

The output from the regulator is split into two. The DC side +B goes to the Batter via the original white wire. The AC output from the regulator goes to the switch via the original yellow wire.

Itís still the same in theory. Both have an independent ignition circuit.
The AC and DC circuits have been moved out from the stator to a regulator

Last edited by worrywort on Fri Sep 06, 2019 3:51 am; edited 1 time in total
Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1635

Thu Sep 05, 2019 6:22 pm quote
hibbert wrote:
Left out the detail about the engine having 60mm with P taper crankshaft. Using the 1600g flywheel and a traditional electronic type stator plate. Wasn't necessarily looking to go variable ignition but if we need to shop for something more appropriate few extra pennies might not be so bad. Suggestions welcome.
Variable timing is always a very good idea with any tuned engine. If you went with a SIP Vape kit, it's very easy to wire up if you decide you want to go with full DC or all AC power.
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PX125E
Joined: 06 Oct 2018
Posts: 136
Location: Gravesend, Kent, UK
Fri Sep 06, 2019 4:03 am quote
Hello.
I have had another look at this thread and Think I should add this note.

If you wish to use the BGM regulator. Connect the white wire to the 12V battery connection and the yellow wire to the 12V out connection.

DO NOT connect the yellow wire to the stator directly as the old one did. The PX stator has a much higher output and MUST go to the regulator only

Sorry for the confusion.

As whodatschrome says the sip vape is an excellent bit of kit. I have it fitted on my engine.
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