Rusted & a hole in the battery tray & bottom
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Addicted
2010 Vespa 300 Super
Joined: 04 Oct 2015
Posts: 678
Location: NYC
Tue Sep 10, 2019 12:02 pm quote
So I got around to getting a new battery finally the old one had been in there for the last 9 years, as old as the Vespa.
I knew there was rust on the bottom and I was going to wire brush and clean it up & paint it etc.
Now I find that it isn't just rust, as I vacuumed the insides of the battery tray, rusted metal flakes peeled off and a bit of tapping with my fingers opened up a nice hole.
Question I have is do I take to a body shop and have them cut out the section and weld a plate on or are there any diy solutions that could solve the problem of patching up the hole. I can deal with the rust but sanding priming and painting it.
When I searched the forum for similar issues there are some suggestions like finding the body part out of a salvaged Vespa cut it and weld it on this bike or using fiberglass mess and filler to patch the hole up etc.
What would be a good fix to last through winter i.e. till next April.

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Ossessionato
BV350, Primavera 150, Yamaha Zuma 125
Joined: 06 Jun 2013
Posts: 2746
Location: The Twin Cities of Minneapolis/Saint Paul, Minnesota
Tue Sep 10, 2019 12:08 pm quote
A piece of galvanized sheet metal and some pop rivets should get you through the winter. Good luck!
Veni, Vidi, Posti
2008 MP3 500, 2013 BV350
Joined: 13 Oct 2012
Posts: 7225
Location: Ashburn, Va. Home to the Internet
Tue Sep 10, 2019 12:09 pm quote

Throw a piece of screen over it and cover it with Flex Seal.
Might work

Sorry just saw a bunch of Flex Seal Commercials.
Moderaptor
The Hornet (GT200, aka Love Bug) and 'Dimples' - a GTS 300
Joined: 26 Aug 2007
Posts: 37493
Location: Pleasant Hill, CA
Tue Sep 10, 2019 12:22 pm quote
Lots of wire brushing followed by a good dose of Ospho to convert the rust to Iron Phosphate. Neutralise the Ospho with some bicarb, good rinse, dry, then fibreglass or weld in a new plate and use some quality filler to smooth over. After that the whole underneath needs a good coating of primer, topcoat and then underseal.
Enthusiast
2007 LX50
Joined: 04 Jul 2018
Posts: 63
Location: DC
Tue Sep 10, 2019 1:05 pm quote
Iím afraid I wouldnít ride that. You are likely to get hurt. That scooter frame has succumbed completely to heavy corrosion. First pothole you hit, it may survive. Second, third? Again, nope. Time to find another scooter.

People, itís like this - these things rust. Donít ignore the underside of these scooters. Keep them clean and protected with the corrosion inhibitor of your choice, just donít ignore them or before you know it you are riding a pile of rust with wheels.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
2008 MP3 500, 2013 BV350
Joined: 13 Oct 2012
Posts: 7225
Location: Ashburn, Va. Home to the Internet
Tue Sep 10, 2019 1:12 pm quote
hitbyastick wrote:
Iím afraid I wouldnít ride that. You are likely to get hurt. That scooter frame has succumbed completely to heavy corrosion. First pothole you hit, it may survive. Second, third? Again, nope. Time to find another scooter.

People, itís like this - these things rust. Donít ignore the underside of these scooters. Keep them clean and protected with the corrosion inhibitor of your choice, just donít ignore them or before you know it you are riding a pile of rust with wheels.
Did you read the post?
That is the battery box, NOT the bottom of the scooter
Enthusiast
2007 LX50
Joined: 04 Jul 2018
Posts: 63
Location: DC
Tue Sep 10, 2019 1:24 pm quote
WEB-Tech wrote:
hitbyastick wrote:
Iím afraid I wouldnít ride that. You are likely to get hurt. That scooter frame has succumbed completely to heavy corrosion. First pothole you hit, it may survive. Second, third? Again, nope. Time to find another scooter.

People, itís like this - these things rust. Donít ignore the underside of these scooters. Keep them clean and protected with the corrosion inhibitor of your choice, just donít ignore them or before you know it you are riding a pile of rust with wheels.
Did you read the post?
That is the battery box, NOT the bottom of the scooter
Then whatís the kickstand thing in the photos then? That for the battery? To answer your question no I didnít read the post. I looked at the pictures, and was horrified by what I saw.

Actually I did read the post. It was entitled "Rust & a hole in the battery tray & bottom" which if you read and speak English means there is rust and a hole in the battery tray and a hole in the bottom. Also I see body plugs, those don't go in the battery tray. those go on the underside of the scooter. But thank you for trying to call me out and make yourself appear superior. Posts like yours are the very reason I prefer the "bad karma" this forum pointlessly saddles people with. Buy yourself a pair of glasses genius.

Last edited by hitbyastick on Tue Sep 10, 2019 1:36 pm; edited 1 time in total
Veni, Vidi, Posti
2008 MP3 500, 2013 BV350
Joined: 13 Oct 2012
Posts: 7225
Location: Ashburn, Va. Home to the Internet
Tue Sep 10, 2019 1:34 pm quote
Yep miss those pics just saw the battery tray one.
JimC didn't seen concerned so I would think it is safe to ride.

This is why I don't ride once salt is put down in the winter. Then don't put them back on the road till rain has wash is all away.
Enthusiast
LX 50
Joined: 04 Mar 2018
Posts: 66
Location: Winston Salem NC
Tue Sep 10, 2019 2:43 pm quote
baba,

I take it that u have a 2010 GTS 300 Super?
The battery try should have been plastic.
You can order a replacement on-line.

Rust is real problem with Vespas. I try to wash it off, and touch up with primer.
Maybe touch up paint. I'm no expert, but I think ur first plan of attack is to stop the rust somehow. There are products u can get, no recommendation here.

I'm sure they salt the road where u live. Wash it off after u ride.

Cheers!

Ossessionato
2016 Vespa GTS300ie abs/asr/ess Settantesimo '70'
Joined: 11 Jun 2011
Posts: 2059
Location: Not really sure but I think somewhere down South, in the engineering dept at Starfleet's UK HQ
Tue Sep 10, 2019 3:32 pm quote
Sorry to see this baba. To be honest you've fallen into the Vespa trap which makes folks think everything is fine if you don't check your bike for rust on a regular basis. It's metal so you have to do that and act if you see problems. You don't need to do it very often either, but it does have to be done. I know you know that.

The main thing is to maintain the structural strength of the bike. I'd see if it can be welded. Unfortunately to do that it looks to me as if more metal will need to be removed first to find sound steel. Any remaining metal that's rusty will need to be treated as Jim says before welding. Afterwards, soak everything in a rust killing rust preventing wax chemical such as Waxoyl or Dinitrol (there are several types).

For newbies, rust proofing your Vespa is quite easy. A quick search on here will no doubt turn up some information about how to do this. It's not rocket science. I did mine and I ride the British very wet and salty roads and don't have any rust.

Good luck baba.
Addicted
2010 Vespa 300 Super
Joined: 04 Oct 2015
Posts: 678
Location: NYC
Tue Sep 10, 2019 6:09 pm quote
Just to set the record straight. The structural integrity of the scooter is fine. The rust in most of the bottom is superficial, I just did a rudimentary cleaning with a wire brush this evening and the metal structure is ok. There is corrosion in the actual battery tray and the paint has bubbled up in the bottom near to the front wheel. Around the side stand and to the very back of the bottom there is surface rust.
I plan on putting the bike on its side this weekend, use a wire wheel and sand it and then apply a rust converter gel.
After prepped and cleaned the area properly I plan on fixing the hole and other areas with a temp fix using fiberglass, resin and bondo, sand it prime it and paint it.
That should hopefully hold up till the summer, at that point in time hopefully I will have a permanent solution to implement, I had searched through the forum and there were suggestions for finding a bottom metal piece from a salvage scooter and cutting out the bottom and welding a new piece.

I should have paid attention to it before but did not think modern vespa's were prone to such corrosion. Well lesson learned. I will take pictures through the process and share and hopefully someone will point out mistakes to be corrected when summertime comes .
Thanks for the knowledge shared.
Enthusiast
2007 LX50
Joined: 04 Jul 2018
Posts: 63
Location: DC
Wed Sep 11, 2019 9:09 am quote
baba12 wrote:
Just to set the record straight. The structural integrity of the scooter is fine. The rust in most of the bottom is superficial.
Image second from the top would beg to differ from your assessment. Rust is like an iceberg, you only see the tip. If the visible rust is that bad, imagine what the rust inside and in all the nooks & crannies looks like. I wish I could share your optimism. But I think you will find that if the scooter survives the winter with your temp fix without going crunch right through the middle the second or third time you stress it by riding the cratered NYC streetscape, that the cost of fixing it properly will exceed the value of the scooter by a significant dollar amount. That sheetmetal is well underway toward its goal of returning to the Earth from whence it came. Please keep the forum posted, and don't be embarrassed to come back and say you had to write it off.
Addicted
2010 Vespa 300 Super
Joined: 04 Oct 2015
Posts: 678
Location: NYC
Wed Sep 11, 2019 9:50 am quote
I do know the consequences and lets hope that it prevails. Ill work on it hopefully this weekend and Ill know more once I have cleaned it up before I do any sort of repairs on it. Ill keep the thread alive by reporting back on what is found.
Moderaptor
The Hornet (GT200, aka Love Bug) and 'Dimples' - a GTS 300
Joined: 26 Aug 2007
Posts: 37493
Location: Pleasant Hill, CA
Wed Sep 11, 2019 10:24 am quote
A primed, non-painted frame is ~$1300 (Painted add $300). That's another option if it seems beyond redemption - cheaper than buying a new one!
Enthusiast
2007 LX50
Joined: 04 Jul 2018
Posts: 63
Location: DC
Wed Sep 11, 2019 12:25 pm quote
jimc wrote:
A primed, non-painted frame is ~$1300 (Painted add $300). That's another option if it seems beyond redemption - cheaper than buying a new one!
That's good news, for those who would consider it. I'd do it in a heartbeat if I had a rotten scooter that I had modified and dialed in and didn't want to part out. It's obvious to me that repairing OP's rust damage will cost more than $1600 in sheer hours of metalfab(experienced bodymen do NOT work cheaply), not to mention shop fees, and the paint job on top of that. With a new frame it would only be paint then swapping parts. Easy but time consuming. So I would consider a new frame a viable and attractive option versus trying in vain to repair all that cancer. To fix that corrosion right and properly would cost a small fortune.
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