OP
@vpfalcon avatar
UTC

Addicted
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
 
Addicted
@vpfalcon avatar
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
UTC quote
I needed a winter project and I found this 1971 Sprint, it's in rough shape but it starts. The title says 1971, the engine serial number says it is from a 1974 Sprint Veloce.
No keys, engine cowl pin is missing, a few dings and some surface rust, and a broken center stand.
I plan to check the compression, replace the bearings, seals, clutch, shocks, engine mounts, brakes, tires, center stand, try to replace the locks, and see if I can get the autolube to work again.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6486
Location: Tega Cay, SC
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6486
Location: Tega Cay, SC
UTC quote
Nice score! Is that a a tuna can light? More Pics!
OP
@vpfalcon avatar
UTC

Addicted
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
 
Addicted
@vpfalcon avatar
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
UTC quote
71 Sprint
Here's a few pictures of the Sprint, the scooter is not a Veloce, but the lump is, I rechecked the motor number and it is from a 74 veloce. The ignition switch is some sort of barrel lock near the fuel tap, (no key) I haven't found one online yet.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@sdjohn avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8149
Location: San Diego, CA
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@sdjohn avatar
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8149
Location: San Diego, CA
UTC quote
Sweet!
@rowdyc avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1345
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
 
Molto Verboso
@rowdyc avatar
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1345
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
UTC quote
Great find! Looks like that Sprint had the infamous silver that peeled offed easy and someone painted it white. If you take the white off beware that you will find some bare metal where the silver peeled off.
Of course that barrel lock ignition was added. Did you check the exhaust bolt to verify it was a Veloce?
You've found a very nice scooter. Congratulations!
@scooterist avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
71' Sprint Veloce , 05' Vespa PX150, 1978 P200E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1487
Location: Tucson, AZ
 
Molto Verboso
@scooterist avatar
71' Sprint Veloce , 05' Vespa PX150, 1978 P200E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1487
Location: Tucson, AZ
UTC quote
I have a 71 Sprint Veloce, mine was imported. I can see that your scooter had bit and pieces from other scooters but overall it looks good.
OP
@vpfalcon avatar
UTC

Addicted
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
 
Addicted
@vpfalcon avatar
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
UTC quote
Motor is out, the wiring looks pretty good, the rubber bits and cables not so good. I'm making a list of parts to order.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
@vpfalcon avatar
UTC

Addicted
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
 
Addicted
@vpfalcon avatar
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
UTC quote
Dirty motor
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@ape avatar
UTC

Hooked
P200E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 474
Location: The Town that dreaded Sundown.
 
Hooked
@ape avatar
P200E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 474
Location: The Town that dreaded Sundown.
UTC quote
Looks like a good start 🤙 Whats the plans with the body? Just a clean and buff?
OP
@vpfalcon avatar
UTC

Addicted
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
 
Addicted
@vpfalcon avatar
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
UTC quote
The tail on the scooter is damaged and a cowl peg is broken off. I'm going to take it to a body shop and have those 2 things fixed.
Not sure about painting.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@geeklion avatar
UTC

The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1643
Location: PNW from LBC
 
The Dude
@geeklion avatar
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1643
Location: PNW from LBC
UTC quote
Nice find CONGRATS! Just brought it home and motor already out making progress. Way to get at it! 8)
@4ad avatar
UTC

Member
GTS300i - Lambretta S3 '62
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10
Location: Belgium
 
Member
@4ad avatar
GTS300i - Lambretta S3 '62
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10
Location: Belgium
UTC quote
Looks like at some point (the hole next to the choke) a px-engine with autolube had been added.

http://www.vespalabs.org/wiki/vespa-101/engine/autolube
@rowdyc avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1345
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
 
Molto Verboso
@rowdyc avatar
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1345
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
UTC quote
4AD wrote:
Looks like at some point (the hole next to the choke) a px-engine with autolube had been added.

http://www.vespalabs.org/wiki/vespa-101/engine/autolube
Nope that is stock motor. US largeframe vespas came with autolube as standard equipment since the early seventies. It was an upgrade for other countries.
OP
@vpfalcon avatar
UTC

Addicted
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
 
Addicted
@vpfalcon avatar
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
UTC quote
Cowl rust
Today I removed the seat, gas/oil tank, and the battery side cowl from the Sprint.
The sight glass has been removed from the oil tank, and welded up. It looks like I can either find a new gas and oil tank combo or cover the sight glass hole in the frame and just add 2t oil to the gas myself. The gas and oil tanks were separate on my p200 but on the sprint they are welded together.
Seat needs recovered. I have an auto upholsterer nearby but not sure what he'd charge to do it. Haven't found seat cover on the interweb yet.
Battery side cowl is rusted pretty badly on the bottom. The remaining metal is pretty thin. Can I put a layer of fiberglass filler on it? Or do I need a new cowl?
I suppose I could buy a matching pair since the holder peg is broken off the engine side cowl anyway.
Rusty cowl.
Rusty cowl.
Seat and pad.
Seat and pad.
Welded up oil tank
Welded up oil tank
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9512
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9512
Location: seattle/athens
UTC quote
You should be able to get a seat cover at Mercato , but out of black now and only has blue & red. YUCK, call Dave and ask when he gets more black in. For your cowl, yes to fiberglass, but no to just filler. Just do like this and use a piece of fiberglass cloth cut to fit on the inside, and I think you'll like the result.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Also, you're gonna pull the headset and fork ANYWAY, right? If so, do it now and maybe try this?:

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
OP
@vpfalcon avatar
UTC

Addicted
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
 
Addicted
@vpfalcon avatar
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
UTC quote
I was reading the post from DD-VES, about 2 port vs 3 port sprint engines. I was curious about mine so I checked the exhaust bolt hole on the swing arm of my sprint and it didn't go through the swing arm. Uh-oh, so I pulled off head and cylinder and found 3 ports. Good news!
This week I pulled the headset and removed the floor runners, the rust isn't bad at all. I've got a lot of cleaning and paint removal to do before I take the frame to body shop.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@hibbert avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Vespa
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1568
Location: California
 
Molto Verboso
@hibbert avatar
Vespa
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1568
Location: California
UTC quote
looking good
OP
@vpfalcon avatar
UTC

Addicted
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
 
Addicted
@vpfalcon avatar
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
UTC quote
I'm in the process of stripping down the Sprint for bead blasting and body work, then paint.
There's quite a bit of rust on the mudguard and glovebox side cowl. The engine side cowl is missing the rear peg.
I've looked at repops for sale on SIP, the cost is reasonable, but shipping might be expensive. Can I have the old ones fixed? Are the repops a better solution?
I may take the 3 pieces into a body shop tomorrow for an estimate.
Rusted bolt holes in mudguard
Rusted bolt holes in mudguard
Peg torn out of engine side cowl
Peg torn out of engine side cowl
Bottom of glove side cowl rusted
Bottom of glove side cowl rusted
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@ph0ngvu avatar
UTC

Hooked
Vespa
Joined: UTC
Posts: 496
Location: US
 
Hooked
@ph0ngvu avatar
Vespa
Joined: UTC
Posts: 496
Location: US
UTC quote
good work. Looks like lot of original grey paint still underneath the white layer. Some originalist are crying out loud. lol.
@rowdyc avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1345
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
 
Molto Verboso
@rowdyc avatar
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1345
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
UTC quote
Looks like a great project!

There's other ways to fix the cowl peg. Some use bolts or a metal rod welded to the cowl. Some don't even weld and use nuts and washers to hold it on. If you need to order one from SIP go through a US dealer like Scooter Mercato for a flat shipping rate.

BTW, Did you do the hammer test on the rusted area. That cowl floor is suspect and the fender may not have enough good metal in that area to hold the bolts. You may need to find good used pieces or a repops which are not that bad if you get them from a respectable supplier and not Ebay. Hope you can save them.

Good luck!
OP
@vpfalcon avatar
UTC

Addicted
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
 
Addicted
@vpfalcon avatar
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
UTC quote
Partial list of items I want from SIP.
Engine gasket set
Bearings
Seals
Rings
Engine mounts
Clutch rebuild kit
Road 2 exhaust
Cruciform
Rubber bits
SIP tubeless rims w/tires
Center stand
Seat cover
Seat cushion
Steering bearings
Carbone shocks
Mud guard
2 cowls
Various screws, nuts, floor mat, etc,
Shipping estimate is $95, not too bad.
OP
@vpfalcon avatar
UTC

Addicted
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
 
Addicted
@vpfalcon avatar
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
UTC quote
I've got the scooter nearly ready paint and rust removal. Still have some work to do on the head set.
I'm not sure whether to have it dipped or blasted. I'm waiting to hear back for a price from the 'dipper'.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@sdjohn avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8149
Location: San Diego, CA
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@sdjohn avatar
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8149
Location: San Diego, CA
UTC quote
the people who love dipping will talk about the sand coming out later, and the people who love blasting will talk about the chemicals coming out from the seams later .

Me - I'd probably get it blasted, and not look back, but I have no experience to speak of on this. One thing I can offer - years ago I had a friend with an auto body shop who helped me paint my 63 falcon. we didn't take the car to bare metal, we only sanded it all and used the original paint as the base, with primer on the areas of repair for metal, etc. it came out great. So no need to get every last bit of paint off the bike to have a good finished product, so long as the body work and primer phases get enough attention.
OP
@vpfalcon avatar
UTC

Addicted
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
 
Addicted
@vpfalcon avatar
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
UTC quote
The Sprint body is still at the dipper-stripper, they say it'll be ready next week. I got a gas tank from Voodoo, (thanks !) and started working on it today. (The old tank was buggered) I put some acetone in the tank along with some pennies, did a lot of shaking, checking, shaking, checking. I also attached some steel wool to the end of a long screwdriver which I dipped in solvent and used on problem areas. After rinsing the tank out and drying with a hair dryer, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
How do I get the tank ready for paint? I tried a heat gun and didn't make much progress. Should I use a paint stripper, or just sand it?
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@lynnb avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
1963 VBB2T
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2542
 
Ossessionato
@lynnb avatar
1963 VBB2T
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2542
UTC quote
The tank came out great, hows the rest of the frame going to be , any idea yet?
UTC

parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5036
 
parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5036
UTC quote
Vpfalcon wrote:
The Sprint body is still at the dipper-stripper, they say it'll be ready next week. I got a gas tank from Voodoo, (thanks !) and started working on it today. (The old tank was buggered) I put some acetone in the tank along with some pennies, did a lot of shaking, checking, shaking, checking. I also attached some steel wool to the end of a long screwdriver which I dipped in solvent and used on problem areas. After rinsing the tank out and drying with a hair dryer, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
How do I get the tank ready for paint? I tried a heat gun and didn't make much progress. Should I use a paint stripper, or just sand it?
Break out the sander!
UTC

parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5036
 
parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5036
UTC quote
sdjohn wrote:
the people who love dipping will talk about the sand coming out later, and the people who love blasting will talk about the chemicals coming out from the seams later .

Me - I'd probably get it blasted, and not look back, but I have no experience to speak of on this. One thing I can offer - years ago I had a friend with an auto body shop who helped me paint my 63 falcon. we didn't take the car to bare metal, we only sanded it all and used the original paint as the base, with primer on the areas of repair for metal, etc. it came out great. So no need to get every last bit of paint off the bike to have a good finished product, so long as the body work and primer phases get enough attention.
One of my friends bought a red 63 Falcon Futura convertible around 2005. Since i did all the maintance and work on it, i got to cruise around in it whenever i wanted! His car came with the V8 so it was pretty darn quick!
OP
@vpfalcon avatar
UTC

Addicted
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
 
Addicted
@vpfalcon avatar
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
UTC quote
Lynnb wrote:
The tank came out great, hows the rest of the frame going to be , any idea yet?
I finished paint removal on the gas tank. I used a disc sander, then a wire wheel on it. I tried hand sanding but that was slow going.
I think it came out okay, no reason (I know of) to do anything but the top of the tank.
Looking forward to getting the frame back from the dipper next week.
I'm hoping to clean up the motor and start the rebuild on that this week too. I have a parts list about a mile long, including a mudguard and both cowls. But I haven't ordered anything yet.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
UTC

parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5036
 
parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5036
UTC quote
Make sure you discuss with the the dipper about neutralizing the acid...
OP
@vpfalcon avatar
UTC

Addicted
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
 
Addicted
@vpfalcon avatar
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
UTC quote
I'm hoping to be able to spray the tunnel and the area beneath the fuel tank with a rust inhibitor. Or use a brush if I can't spray into the tunnel.
The dipper said they apply a rust inhibitor, but that it is only effective for 60 days. After I deal with the tunnel, I'll take the scooter body and parts to an auto body shop for some body work and paint.
Fingers crossed, he did the cowls on my T5 and did a nice job.
OP
@vpfalcon avatar
UTC

Addicted
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
 
Addicted
@vpfalcon avatar
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
UTC quote
Started cleaning and taking apart the motor on this old sprint. Spent 15 minutes removing a circlip from the flywheel only to realize the circlip is needed to remove the flywheel.
I'm looking at the stator and I think it's in good condition. The wiring insulation is brittle in spots, but the portion contained within the flywheel housing is okay. I am thinking I can splice new wires onto the ones coming out of the stator with connectors. Has anyone done this? It's cheaper than buying a new stator or having this one professionally rewired.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@rowdyc avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1345
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
 
Molto Verboso
@rowdyc avatar
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1345
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
UTC quote
Its best to remove the entire wire from the stator and replace. Will need a soldering iron, ring connectors, and new wires with the correct color and guage. I've replaced wires on a P's points stator. Didn't look pretty but it worked. Got wires, multi-meter, and soldering iron kit from Amazon

If you're not comfortable with replacing the wires, Scooter Mercato offers a very good stator rebuild service at a very good price.
http://www.scootermercato.com/Garage/Vespa-Stator-Rewire
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6486
Location: Tega Cay, SC
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6486
Location: Tega Cay, SC
UTC quote
Agree with Rowdy, replace the whole wire. ScooterWest has wiring kits and it is easily done. One wire at a time. I'm going to be doing the same thing to my 66 Sprint in a few weeks. And the service at Scooter Mercado is always an option.
UTC

parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5036
 
parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5036
UTC quote
Vpfalcon wrote:
I'm hoping to be able to spray the tunnel and the area beneath the fuel tank with a rust inhibitor. Or use a brush if I can't spray into the tunnel.
The dipper said they apply a rust inhibitor, but that it is only effective for 60 days. After I deal with the tunnel, I'll take the scooter body and parts to an auto body shop for some body work and paint.
Fingers crossed, he did the cowls on my T5 and did a nice job.
I fog the absolute heck out of the tunnel whenever I spray a scooter. Turn the spray fan down to a point, turn up the air pressure, and let it rip! If you get REAL good fog of paint down in that area, you should have good coverage on all the bare metal. That's the one area I consider totally acceptable (maybe even required?) to get runs and sags.
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6486
Location: Tega Cay, SC
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6486
Location: Tega Cay, SC
UTC quote
by the way, the tank came out great!
@pheasant_plucker avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1379
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
 
Molto Verboso
@pheasant_plucker avatar
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1379
Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand)
UTC quote
Just saw your tank. Snap! This is clear coated...

Btw... Penetrol is awesome as a rust inhibitor - and will get into the seams and places spray paint can't.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@lynnb avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
1963 VBB2T
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2542
 
Ossessionato
@lynnb avatar
1963 VBB2T
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2542
UTC quote
whodatschrome wrote:
Vpfalcon wrote:
I'm hoping to be able to spray the tunnel and the area beneath the fuel tank with a rust inhibitor. Or use a brush if I can't spray into the tunnel.
The dipper said they apply a rust inhibitor, but that it is only effective for 60 days. After I deal with the tunnel, I'll take the scooter body and parts to an auto body shop for some body work and paint.
Fingers crossed, he did the cowls on my T5 and did a nice job.
I fog the absolute heck out of the tunnel whenever I spray a scooter. Turn the spray fan down to a point, turn up the air pressure, and let it rip! If you get REAL good fog of paint down in that area, you should have good coverage on all the bare metal. That's the one area I consider totally acceptable (maybe even required?) to get runs and sags.
So early in the morning and learned something new already, never thought of being able to lower the fan to a point and get into those deep dark areas, good tip.

The tank came out fantastic.
OP
@vpfalcon avatar
UTC

Addicted
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
 
Addicted
@vpfalcon avatar
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
UTC quote
The scooter body is back from the stripper, looks like it needs more body work than I thought, but all in all not bad! I'm hoping to spray a rust inhibitor into the tunnel before I take the scooter to a body shop for body work and paint.
I also split the engine cases and they look fine, (that took a while) the piston and cylinder look good too, it's a 74 Veloce 150 motor. I plan to rebuild the clutch and Cush drive, clean up the cylinder, put on new rings, also seals and bearings.
I cleaned up the floor rails and look okay too.
Time to order parts
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
The crank is stuck into the flywheel side bearing or seal.
The crank is stuck into the flywheel side bearing or seal.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@hibbert avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Vespa
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1568
Location: California
 
Molto Verboso
@hibbert avatar
Vespa
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1568
Location: California
UTC quote
darn that turned out super duper clean! I bet it will be a pleasure whoever gets to put color on it.
OP
@vpfalcon avatar
UTC

Addicted
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
 
Addicted
@vpfalcon avatar
86 T5,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 754
Location: Oak Brook, Illinois
UTC quote
Ordered parts today.
DoubleGood Design banner

Modern Vespa is the premier site for modern Vespa and Piaggio scooters. Vespa GTS300, GTS250, GTV, GT200, LX150, LXS, ET4, ET2, MP3, Fuoco, Elettrica and more.

Buy Me A Coffee
 

Shop on Amazon with Modern Vespa

Modern Vespa is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com


All Content Copyright 2005-2024 by Modern Vespa.
All Rights Reserved.


[ Time: 0.1689s ][ Queries: 44 (0.1324s) ][ Debug on ][ 313 ][ Thing One ]