New Floor Install
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Hooked
Vespa
Joined: 25 May 2016
Posts: 388
Location: US
Wed Nov 13, 2019 12:03 pm quote
keep up the good work. Great stuff
Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1183

Mon Nov 18, 2019 5:23 pm quote
Got the frame surfaces all cleaned up and the new floor after a bit of manipulating is sitting much closer to the frame. I will be cutting the new floor back and no more of the legshield will be cut back. I came across a piece of copper pipe last nite at work and gave it a hammering , should be a backer tool for doing the plug welds.
I just need to decide whether to fill all the frame holes in using the copper backer before putting the floor on or after putting the floor on.

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Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1183

Tue Nov 19, 2019 12:52 pm quote
Thought I'd give it a shot to fill in the holes on the frame, taking multiple runs with grinding and filling.

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Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1183

Tue Nov 19, 2019 4:09 pm quote
I'm making a first attempt of getting the brake line housing lined up for the brake pedal as well as getting the angle for the brake pedal semi correct as far as the up down limit goes.
I also got the holes in the frame where the floor will be welded to filled in and just needs to be checked for flatness against the new floor.

Can you guys please give me some input on the position of the foot pedal for the travel? You will see with it all the way extended upward it goes past the hump and downward not to the floor. Also I think I have some tweaking to do for the outer brake housing , it may be inward too far. Need some input.

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Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1183

Thu Nov 21, 2019 2:27 pm quote
I got the brake peg and rear brake line housing in place and the cables that go in the floor and out the small hole ran, that is not the rear brake cable I will be using.

I picked up some Plastikote Rust Converter and Proform Seam Sealer , the Rust Converter is of course to coat the tunnel and will stop any new rust as well the guy at the autobody parts place said it will solidify any rust it comes into contact with. The Seam Sealer will be used on any welded joints, let it cure and prime.
Once I apply the RC on the tunnel I just need to route a pull string to pull the wire loom through after its painted.
Also still have to setup wires for the rear brake stop switch at rear brake.
As you can see with the new floor sitting in place , I have plenty of new floor to cut back to make the leg shield butt up nicely , I hope.

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Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1856

Thu Nov 21, 2019 3:02 pm quote
That rust converter won't stop the rust. If you want it to not come back anytime soon you would need to have the frame dipped. You're whole scooter needs to be repainted anyhow, you might as well get rid of all the rust instead up just covering it up for the next couple years. i commend you for replacing the floor, but if you're only going to cover up the rust, then it won't be any better than the last person in Asia who replaced the floor. Also that seam sealer will most likely just trap moisture, which in turn will cause even more issues.


*my background- i went to an auto refinishing school as well as worked in a body shop. I learned the "correct" way and the "short-cut" way. I got to also see many of the "forehead slapper" ways inbetween. Most of the forehead slappers that i saw were out of ingorance of the person who tired to do their own work. Don't underestimate rust! No one has ever heard of a doctor who said "well, we got most of the cancer out. The rest of it that we can still see but didn't remove won't be an issue".

I'm not trying to beat you up, i'm just letting you know how rust works.
Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1183

Thu Nov 21, 2019 3:12 pm quote
whodatschrome wrote:
That rust converter won't stop the rust. If you want it to not come back anytime soon you would need to have the frame dipped. You're whole scooter needs to be repainted anyhow, you might as well get rid of all the rust instead up just covering it up for the next couple years. i commend you for replacing the floor, but if you're only going to cover up the rust, then it won't be any better than the last person in Asia who replaced the floor. Also that seam sealer will most likely just trap moisture, which in turn will cause even more issues.


*my background- i went to an auto refinishing school as well as worked in a body shop. I learned the "correct" way and the "short-cut" way. I got to also see many of the "forehead slapper" ways inbetween. Most of the forehead slappers that i saw were out of ingorance of the person who tired to do their own work. Don't underestimate rust! No one has ever heard of a doctor who said "well, we got most of the cancer out. The rest of it that we can still see but didn't remove won't be an issue".

I'm not trying to beat you up, i'm just letting you know how rust works.
Thanks for the input, the frame has been sandblasted other than in the tunnel and the rest is solid. I could have went cheap with the rust stuff but these guys restore old cars and my neibour that slao restores old cars recommended it to me over other brands so I gotta put some trust in a friend. He also recommeded the seam sealer , mind you not that particular brand but to pick it up from where I bought it. I got it to fill in and shape where the new brake housing comes out of the frame.
Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1183

Thu Nov 28, 2019 3:49 pm quote
Doesn't look like much progress but I have been moving ahead carefully. Lots of measureing and fitting to get to this point. The floor is pretty much fitted and 1/4" bolts used to hold the floor down. Next step is to trim back the front to mate up to the leg shield framing.

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Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1183

Sat Nov 30, 2019 7:21 pm quote
Pretty much all set for welding the floor down. I did the rust proofing in the tunnel and down the front inside. Cables are all ran including a couple strong wicks I'll use for pulling the wire harness and brake switch wires. Tapped new holes for the brake switch and put in temporary screws. I also added a small plate at the front joint to help in the welding of the butt joint.

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Addicted
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 727
Location: california
Sat Nov 30, 2019 10:35 pm quote
Remarkable piece of work.
Gonna feel extra good driving around when complete - knowing you rebuilt and renewed like this.
Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1183

Sun Dec 01, 2019 7:35 am quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Remarkable piece of work.
Gonna feel extra good driving around when complete - knowing you rebuilt and renewed like this.
Just making this proper wil feel remarkable.
Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1183

Sun Dec 01, 2019 4:38 pm quote
I had to pull the floor off one more time to put primer on the centre of the floor , I went across the street to talk to my buddy as he is an active car restorer and suggested if I wanted I could do the frame railed with weldable primer but for sure use some primer if I wanted on the centre , Sunday and no weldable primer to be found son onward I went.
I got through most of the welding , the plug welding was pretty straight for , just turned up the volts and wire feed down a bit and used my copper back for when I removed the bolts.
On the other hand the from butt weld was a bit of a bear, test welded on the bench with the similar material and got different results when I actually welded the front leg to the new floor , but I survived with quite a bit of filling. Even when I got the tacks in all across I was able to go over the tacks with a hotter bead. I got good penetration on the plug welds and the butt welds. I still have to go back and fill a couple holes that appeared after grinding but no biggy.

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Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1183

Sun Dec 08, 2019 6:28 pm quote
Hi guys been grinding away on my project here, I have a couple spots where as I ground the weld I broke through, no problem to reweld . Just wondering when doing welding on old stuff like this what is it you're actually aiming for? Is it weld to get the metal attach and grind the weld away to the seam or is it grind down enough so the welded area is smooth enough so there's no heaves in the metal where the new weld build up may be so as to be able to start the body work?
In the area where I broke through should I maybe weld from the opposite side? What determines the area to be welded if there's two sides to the project?
I hope you's can understand the photos I includes a pre grinded pic as well just to put the welded areas in question into perspective.
Thanks
Guys

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