Painters in the house
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Molto Verboso
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Tue Nov 26, 2019 1:28 pm quote
First off I know squat about auto paint , I have used spray bombs to paint bike frames , basicly prime and rattle can it. I had the Vespa painted a few years back by someone, had it sand blasted to inspect and dropped it off and he did prep work and painted and I got it back. I'm doing work to the Vespa now and will need to paint and I'm not afraid to make the investment to buy the equipment needed and to learn but I'm stumped right from the get-go.
I have this paint that I had ordered as I knew I would someday be replacing the floor so paid for this small can of paint, same as what he used to paint the bike.
As I said I know squat about types of paint , whether it has a clear coat or any of those terms. What kind of paint is this and what do I need to do , starting from the new metal area and where I welded braces and that area being ground down to new metal base?
Thanks
Lynn

nov 26 paint.jpg

nov 26 paint 1.jpg

nov 26 paint 2.jpg

nov 26 paint 3.jpg

Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1875

Tue Nov 26, 2019 1:46 pm quote
it’s Omni paint. It’s the “budget” version of PPG.
Ossessionato
1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
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Location: So Cal
Tue Nov 26, 2019 2:18 pm quote
It's a decent, mid-priced automotive acrylic base coat (it needs to be clear coated). You can get the product data sheet here:

https://us.ppgrefinish.com/getdoc/6300b95a-91db-46e6-9119-fd50ffabbe94/Omni.aspx

It'll produce a nice finish if applied correctly. How much experience do you have painting?
Molto Verboso
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Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1206

Tue Nov 26, 2019 2:38 pm quote
SoCalGuy wrote:
It's a decent, mid-priced automotive acrylic base coat (it needs to be clear coated). You can get the product data sheet here:

https://us.ppgrefinish.com/getdoc/6300b95a-91db-46e6-9119-fd50ffabbe94/Omni.aspx

It'll produce a nice finish if applied correctly. How much experience do you have painting?
Thanks for the reply,
No experience other than rattle can painting.
How would I know if the bike has a clear coat finish or if it’s simply paint finish?
Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1206

Tue Nov 26, 2019 2:39 pm quote
whodatschrome wrote:
it’s Omni paint. It’s the “budget” version of PPG.
Thanks , seems kinda expensive at the time for being a budget paint, but again I know nuttin.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special + projects
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
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Location: seattle/athens
Tue Nov 26, 2019 2:48 pm quote
Vanilla shake sounds pretty tasty.

And don't we all ? ...

Will the one can be enough? If you need to order more now, you ought to cross mix the two batches I think. You will want to apply some good primer first and shoot some sample stuff first, like you did with the welding. SCG can tell you how to do it right.
Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1206

Tue Nov 26, 2019 5:16 pm quote
V oodoo wrote:
Vanilla shake sounds pretty tasty.

And don't we all ? ...

Will the one can be enough? If you need to order more now, you ought to cross mix the two batches I think. You will want to apply some good primer first and shoot some sample stuff first, like you did with the welding. SCG can tell you how to do it right.
Hopefully the one can will do the job, really just need to do the floor and where I welded two supports on and a couple touch ups. When you say good primer, does it have to be shot from a gun, particular type , which? Do it right is hopefully the way it will go.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special + projects
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7423
Location: seattle/athens
Tue Nov 26, 2019 5:28 pm quote
Like you, I've done some presentable rattlecan jobs, but they are nowhere near a good pro job shot w/ a gun in a clean environment w/ good ventilation and at the right temperatures. I know, coz my buddy has a pro body shop w/ all the best toys and I could get him to do a paint job EZ for me at cost. But now I just like old tough original paint which I guess you can't get anymore because of bad VOCs.

I know the mysterious modern products are really good and there will be a proper primer. So let's ask SCG, who has actually done this with some amazing pro results how he did there? You will need LOTS of various fine sandpapers and fine steel wool and don't forget a good 'tack rag', beyond that and to quote you , ...again I know nuttin.
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Tue Nov 26, 2019 8:31 pm quote
V oodoo wrote:
Vanilla shake sounds pretty tasty.

And don't we all ? ...

Will the one can be enough? If you need to order more now, you ought to cross mix the two batches I think. You will want to apply some good primer first and shoot some sample stuff first, like you did with the welding. SCG can tell you how to do it right.
Sound Greek to me.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special + projects
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Posts: 7423
Location: seattle/athens
Tue Nov 26, 2019 10:18 pm quote
Lithuanian, wasn't he? But not sure, I almost flunked history.
Ossessionato
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Wed Nov 27, 2019 12:08 am quote
V oodoo wrote:
Vanilla shake sounds pretty tasty.

And don't we all ? ...

Will the one can be enough?.
BEST COLOUR NAME EVER.... what else would you call cum-in-a-pot?
Molto Verboso
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: 16 Apr 2011
Posts: 1174
Location: Siam
Wed Nov 27, 2019 12:41 am quote
This job should be as easy as two jerks and a quiver.
Molto Verboso
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 1875

Wed Nov 27, 2019 1:08 am quote
Lynnb wrote:
whodatschrome wrote:
it’s Omni paint. It’s the “budget” version of PPG.
Thanks , seems kinda expensive at the time for being a budget paint, but again I know nuttin.
It’s pretty cheap comparatively. Real PPG would be around 2 to 3 times more expensive. I’ve used the Omni brand quite a few times but have never been even close to being impressed with the stuff. The problem is that PPG is out of this world expensive. For paint, surfacer, primer, clear, and all the reducers and hardeners. You’ll be looking at around $500ish just for those materials. Body filler, sandpaper, tap, wax and grease remover, ect will add another $100ish.
Ossessionato
1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 4916
Location: So Cal
Wed Nov 27, 2019 7:46 am quote
Lynnb wrote:
Hopefully the one can will do the job, really just need to do the floor and where I welded two supports on and a couple touch ups. When you say good primer, does it have to be shot from a gun, particular type , which? Do it right is hopefully the way it will go.
Yes, apply a primer after sanding and prepping the metal. A 1K primer from a rattle can will work.

The paint itself needs to be shot with a gun.

It’s a non-catalyzed (1K) base paint, but will perform better with a hardener added. Go to the local auto paint store, they’ll set you up.

The quart you have will be plenty for the floor, but again, you’ll need a clear coat over it. There are many brands to choose from, but the safest choice would be to stick with one of the Omni products.

Download the product data sheet. It tells you everything you need to know about the paint, from mixing, to spraying, to drying time, to what primers and clear coats are compatible.

As far as guns, like all tools, they come in a wide range of price and quality. You can get a reasonably good finish with a cheap HF gun if you practice and are careful.

Prep really is most the most important part of painting. Any flaws will not be covered. The final result will only look as good as what’s underneath. And everything has to be clean as a whistle before a drop of paint goes on.

whodats: I’ve used Omni single stage and it’s fine ... it’s a little thin compared to more expensive stuff but we’re talking about scooters here not Ferraris.
Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1206

Wed Nov 27, 2019 10:37 am quote
whodatschrome wrote:
Lynnb wrote:
whodatschrome wrote:
it’s Omni paint. It’s the “budget” version of PPG.
Thanks , seems kinda expensive at the time for being a budget paint, but again I know nuttin.
It’s pretty cheap comparatively. Real PPG would be around 2 to 3 times more expensive. I’ve used the Omni brand quite a few times but have never been even close to being impressed with the stuff. The problem is that PPG is out of this world expensive. For paint, surfacer, primer, clear, and all the reducers and hardeners. You’ll be looking at around $500ish just for those materials. Body filler, sandpaper, tap, wax and grease remover, ect will add another $100ish.
Learn something new everyday.
Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1206

Wed Nov 27, 2019 10:47 am quote
SoCalGuy wrote:
Lynnb wrote:
Hopefully the one can will do the job, really just need to do the floor and where I welded two supports on and a couple touch ups. When you say good primer, does it have to be shot from a gun, particular type , which? Do it right is hopefully the way it will go.
Yes, apply a primer after sanding and prepping the metal. A 1K primer from a rattle can will work.

The paint itself needs to be shot with a gun.

It’s a non-catalyzed (1K) base paint, but will perform better with a hardener added. Go to the local auto paint store, they’ll set you up.

The quart you have will be plenty for the floor, but again, you’ll need a clear coat over it. There are many brands to choose from, but the safest choice would be to stick with one of the Omni products.

Download the product data sheet. It tells you everything you need to know about the paint, from mixing, to spraying, to drying time, to what primers and clear coats are compatible.

As far as guns, like all tools, they come in a wide range of price and quality. You can get a reasonably good finish with a cheap HF gun if you practice and are careful.

Prep really is most the most important part of painting. Any flaws will not be covered. The final result will only look as good as what’s underneath. And everything has to be clean as a whistle before a drop of paint goes on.

whodats: I’ve used Omni single stage and it’s fine ... it’s a little thin compared to more expensive stuff but we’re talking about scooters here not Ferraris.
Thanks for all this imformation, its a great help.
I will visit the place I picked up the paint and get the needed info for the Omni line.
One thing as I see many different lines of paint guns and realize there is a difference from one to the next , found this out when I bought a starter airbrush and then bought a good airbrush, anyway for the gun what would I be looking for it to have other than gravity feed? We have no HF here in Canada but there are other places that sell an average gun.
Thanks again.
Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1206

Wed Nov 27, 2019 10:48 am quote
nomadinsiam wrote:
This job should be as easy as two jerks and a quiver.
Love the breakdown of how easy it should be
Molto Verboso
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: 16 Apr 2011
Posts: 1174
Location: Siam
Wed Nov 27, 2019 6:25 pm quote
Lynnb wrote:
nomadinsiam wrote:
This job should be as easy as two jerks and a quiver.
Love the breakdown of how easy it should be
Spraying the primer is good practice.

Once the paint is mixed, get a clean practice panel the try out. Mess around with the fan knob and air pressure. Overlap each pass about half of the paint coverage. The important thing is to allow it to dry for about ten minutes between coats. This is where I f#k it up. I fail to let it dry enough between coats and then it runs.

Impatience, over excitement, and the false belief that it needs more heavy coats is the downfall. Avoid these and it should look fine.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special + projects
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7423
Location: seattle/athens
Thu Nov 28, 2019 3:02 am quote
That's good advice^^^. You could use rattlecan primer, but if you have to get a good spraygun setup anyway, why not use good spray on stuff? I like the "self etching" type as it is supposed to grab the prepared metal better and you can work on your technique as suggested. Here's one I'd consider, but search on 'automotive etching primer' as Amazon has cheaper and more expensive. Read the reviews. This one runs ~$40 a quart, so not all that much more than a couple of hi end spray bombs and the gray is a bit cheaper.

You may want to shoot primer more than once, block sanding between coats for flattest and smoothest results. Ideally, you'd have both the black and gray so you could alternate and read the depth in the low spots. I like to finish the final primer w/ fine steel wool before first topcoat.

Molto Verboso
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Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1206

Fri Nov 29, 2019 8:26 am quote
Thanks guys good advice all around and much appreciated. I'm moving forward, need to hunt down an inexpensive gun but good quality, lots of Black Friday deals going on right now.
Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1206

Fri Nov 29, 2019 8:38 am quote
I've got a dumb question so please don't laugh , but if you do get a laugh out of it and it cheers up your day thats ok.
Can I use my airbrush with the larger needle with applying the primer?
Hooked
1955 Allstate 1958 lambretta 1965 Allstate 1968 sprint
Joined: 20 Jul 2017
Posts: 416
Location: Central california
Fri Nov 29, 2019 5:42 pm quote
Painters
No I would not do use a airbrush to apply paint and primer. It simply won’t lay down enough material. It will “flash” before it even hits your body part.
No reason not to have the correct gun. It will be able to apply the primer,paint and clear coat if you decide you want to go that route. I bet you can buy a gun for under 100.00....maybe less. I have LOTS of money tied up in spray guns. I came in late on this post, but I have read most of what has been said...lots of good info. I know this has been said, but your paint job is only going to be as good as the prep work.
Something that has not been touched upon is the type of paint being used. You have options. Oil based and water based. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. Water based paints...easy and cheap cleanup. All new cars are sprayed with water based paints. You can you-tube it to get more info.
Anyway; you just got to jump in and go. I learned how to spray on vintage pedal cars. Don’t be afraid to make a mistake...it can all be fixed. Scott
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Fri Nov 29, 2019 6:22 pm quote
Scott used this type of spray gun on his Blue Allstate. Amazon spray gun .
Allstate thread

Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1206

Sat Nov 30, 2019 7:15 am quote
Re: Painters
Sjanuary wrote:
No I would not do use a airbrush to apply paint and primer. It simply won’t lay down enough material. It will “flash” before it even hits your body part.
No reason not to have the correct gun. It will be able to apply the primer,paint and clear coat if you decide you want to go that route. I bet you can buy a gun for under 100.00....maybe less. I have LOTS of money tied up in spray guns. I came in late on this post, but I have read most of what has been said...lots of good info. I know this has been said, but your paint job is only going to be as good as the prep work.
Something that has not been touched upon is the type of paint being used. You have options. Oil based and water based. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. Water based paints...easy and cheap cleanup. All new cars are sprayed with water based paints. You can you-tube it to get more info.
Anyway; you just got to jump in and go. I learned how to spray on vintage pedal cars. Don’t be afraid to make a mistake...it can all be fixed. Scott
Yes yes , never thought of the paint drying before it hits, airbrushing is also new to me but I use it quite often in my other hobby.
I do see quite a few guns for quite often less than $100 and probably are good for someone who paints not so often. I would rather spend extra time in prepping the surfaces to be painting and as you say get a good finish.
I won't be painting the entire bike, just the new floor I'm installing , the areas where I welded bracing and the headset needs some touchup.
I think the SoCalGuy had already set me straight as to the small can of paint I have for the work I need to do, he said it was acrylic base coat. I still have some reading to do , homework he gave for me to read up on.
As for the gun I just need to know what to look for in purchasing, I drained my compressor yesterday and noticed a fair bit of oil residue in the water so this may be a game changer.
Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1206

Sat Nov 30, 2019 7:17 am quote
rowdyc wrote:
Scott used this type of spray gun on his Blue Allstate. Amazon spray gun .
Allstate thread

Thanks Rowdyc I'm going to pop over to that thread and do some looking to see what was going on.
Molto Verboso
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: 16 Apr 2011
Posts: 1174
Location: Siam
Sat Nov 30, 2019 7:19 am quote
Re: Painters
Lynnb wrote:
Sjanuary wrote:
No I would not do use a airbrush to apply paint and primer. It simply won’t lay down enough material. It will “flash” before it even hits your body part.
No reason not to have the correct gun. It will be able to apply the primer,paint and clear coat if you decide you want to go that route. I bet you can buy a gun for under 100.00....maybe less. I have LOTS of money tied up in spray guns. I came in late on this post, but I have read most of what has been said...lots of good info. I know this has been said, but your paint job is only going to be as good as the prep work.
Something that has not been touched upon is the type of paint being used. You have options. Oil based and water based. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. Water based paints...easy and cheap cleanup. All new cars are sprayed with water based paints. You can you-tube it to get more info.
Anyway; you just got to jump in and go. I learned how to spray on vintage pedal cars. Don’t be afraid to make a mistake...it can all be fixed. Scott
Yes yes , never thought of the paint drying before it hits, airbrushing is also new to me but I use it quite often in my other hobby.
I do see quite a few guns for quite often less than $100 and probably are good for someone who paints not so often. I would rather spend extra time in prepping the surfaces to be painting and as you say get a good finish.
I won't be painting the entire bike, just the new floor I'm installing , the areas where I welded bracing and the headset needs some touchup.
I think the SoCalGuy had already set me straight as to the small can of paint I have for the work I need to do, he said it was acrylic base coat. I still have some reading to do , homework he gave for me to read up on.
As for the gun I just need to know what to look for in purchasing, I drained my compressor yesterday and noticed a fair bit of oil residue in the water so this may be a game changer.
Oil? That's weird. Mine just has the usual rusty water. A decent moisture trap in the line takes care of it.
Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1206

Sat Nov 30, 2019 7:31 am quote
V oodoo wrote:
That's good advice^^^. You could use rattlecan primer, but if you have to get a good spraygun setup anyway, why not use good spray on stuff? I like the "self etching" type as it is supposed to grab the prepared metal better and you can work on your technique as suggested. Here's one I'd consider, but search on 'automotive etching primer' as Amazon has cheaper and more expensive. Read the reviews. This one runs ~$40 a quart, so not all that much more than a couple of hi end spray bombs and the gray is a bit cheaper.

You may want to shoot primer more than once, block sanding between coats for flattest and smoothest results. Ideally, you'd have both the black and gray so you could alternate and read the depth in the low spots. I like to finish the final primer w/ fine steel wool before first topcoat.

Is this the same 1K primer SoCalGuy was referring to? I like the idea of using the gun to shoot the primer as being good practice but rattle can would probably suffice. I'd like to stick to SoCalGuy's suggestions as he would seem to be giving accurate directions that even I can follow without getting myself into too much trouble.
Yesterday when I was draining the water from my air compressor I did notice some oil residue in with the water draining, hopefully this won;t cause too much issues.
Hooked
1955 Allstate 1958 lambretta 1965 Allstate 1968 sprint
Joined: 20 Jul 2017
Posts: 416
Location: Central california
Sat Nov 30, 2019 7:35 am quote
Painting
Yes brings up another good point. The size of your compressor...alot of newer compressors have “oil chunks” in the bottom of the compressors to keep them from rusting out over time. Minimum you would need is a good filter and a regulator. Cost a bit to get started, but once you have everything, you have it.
Back to the compressor....if it’s not big enough to run a spray gun....well that may be a deal breaker. You need about 40-50 psi at the gun head continuesly. Obviously painting small pieces helps.
Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1206

Sat Nov 30, 2019 7:49 am quote
Re: Painting
Sjanuary wrote:
Yes brings up another good point. The size of your compressor...alot of newer compressors have “oil chunks” in the bottom of the compressors to keep them from rusting out over time. Minimum you would need is a good filter and a regulator. Cost a bit to get started, but once you have everything, you have it.
Back to the compressor....if it’s not big enough to run a spray gun....well that may be a deal breaker. You need about 40-50 psi at the gun head continuesly. Obviously painting small pieces helps.
Compressor is a 60 gallon that I leave set at 90 psi to run my air tools which I do use quite a bit especially since working on changing the floor out.
I do have a seperate regular T'd off , have never really used it , I had installed it for future use with my airbrush but find most stuff I brush I do downstairs at the hobby table using the non toxic stuff now a days.
My concern with the air compressor is more the oil residue that I noticed while draining the tank.
Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1206

Sat Nov 30, 2019 7:51 am quote
Re: Painters
nomadinsiam wrote:
Lynnb wrote:
Sjanuary wrote:
No I would not do use a airbrush to apply paint and primer. It simply won’t lay down enough material. It will “flash” before it even hits your body part.
No reason not to have the correct gun. It will be able to apply the primer,paint and clear coat if you decide you want to go that route. I bet you can buy a gun for under 100.00....maybe less. I have LOTS of money tied up in spray guns. I came in late on this post, but I have read most of what has been said...lots of good info. I know this has been said, but your paint job is only going to be as good as the prep work.
Something that has not been touched upon is the type of paint being used. You have options. Oil based and water based. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. Water based paints...easy and cheap cleanup. All new cars are sprayed with water based paints. You can you-tube it to get more info.
Anyway; you just got to jump in and go. I learned how to spray on vintage pedal cars. Don’t be afraid to make a mistake...it can all be fixed. Scott
Yes yes , never thought of the paint drying before it hits, airbrushing is also new to me but I use it quite often in my other hobby.
I do see quite a few guns for quite often less than $100 and probably are good for someone who paints not so often. I would rather spend extra time in prepping the surfaces to be painting and as you say get a good finish.
I won't be painting the entire bike, just the new floor I'm installing , the areas where I welded bracing and the headset needs some touchup.
I think the SoCalGuy had already set me straight as to the small can of paint I have for the work I need to do, he said it was acrylic base coat. I still have some reading to do , homework he gave for me to read up on.
As for the gun I just need to know what to look for in purchasing, I drained my compressor yesterday and noticed a fair bit of oil residue in the water so this may be a game changer.
Oil? That's weird. Mine just has the usual rusty water. A decent moisture trap in the line takes care of it.
Not alot of oil but I think your right on the money there, my small aircompressor I use for airbrushing has the moisture trap, where would I attach a moisture trap on the big compressor?
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Sat Nov 30, 2019 8:31 am quote
Re: Painters
Lynnb wrote:
Not alot of oil but I think your right on the money there, my small aircompressor I use for airbrushing has the moisture trap, where would I attach a moisture trap on the big compressor?
Attach the moisture trap to a very long line from the compressor. From there another line to the paint gun. Youtube search "air compressor moisture trap installation" to see the details.
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1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 4916
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Sat Nov 30, 2019 8:48 am quote
Quote:
Is this the same 1K primer SoCalGuy was referring to?
That’s a 1K primer, but IMO not the best choice for what you’re doing as it requires a sealer over it before you can shoot color. (Again read the PDS, which says: “... not recommended to apply color directly to Self Etching Primer.”).

Since you’re working with bare metal, I’d personally use a 2K epoxy primer. It will give you better corrosion protection. Lots to choose from. Don’t know what’s available in Canada, but SEM makes this:
Quote:
Yesterday when I was draining the water from my air compressor I did notice some oil residue in with the water draining, hopefully this won;t cause too much issues.
A moisture filter should take care of that. They're a must for spray painting. They’re cheap and work. Any water or oil that makes its way through the line will show up in the finish as “fish eyes”, bubbles and other ugly stuff.

Oh, and while you’re at it don’t forget a respirator and goggles.

Sjanuary is right, just take your time, relax, and remember even if it goes crappy you can always sand it off and do it again.

Good luck. Let us know if you have any other questions.
Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1206

Sat Nov 30, 2019 8:59 am quote
SoCalGuy wrote:
Quote:
Is this the same 1K primer SoCalGuy was referring to?
That’s a 1K primer, but IMO not the best choice for what you’re doing as it requires a sealer over it before you can shoot color. (Again read the PDS, which says: “... not recommended to apply color directly to Self Etching Primer.”).

Since you’re working with bare metal, I’d personally use a 2K epoxy primer. It will give you better corrosion protection. Lots to choose from. Don’t know what’s available in Canada, but SEM makes this:
Quote:
Yesterday when I was draining the water from my air compressor I did notice some oil residue in with the water draining, hopefully this won;t cause too much issues.
A moisture filter should take care of that. They're a must for spray painting. They’re cheap and work. Any water or oil that makes its way through the line will show up in the finish as “fish eyes”, bubbles and other ugly stuff.

Oh, and while you’re at it don’t forget a respirator and goggles.

Sjanuary is right, just take your time, relax, and remember even if it goes crappy you can always sand it off and do it again.

Good luck. Let us know if you have any other questions.
Thanks again for setting me straight, I'll be first to admit I haven't thorughly read through the PDS, I have so much reading going on. Sjanuary suggested going to check out the Allstate thread and I'm upto page 4 and learned so much from all the great input given to Scott there.
Yes I do have a respirator, same one I use under my welding hood. Just getting my ducks in line right now and really really appreciate all the good recommendations I'm getting and learning from others. Just have to narrow down a gun to start with. Although we don't have HF here and they don't ship to Canada , I did by chance find an Amazon store for HB, just have to narrow down a half descent small job gun, what exactly am I looking for in a gun? Thanks mucho
Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1206

Sat Nov 30, 2019 9:00 am quote
Re: Painters
rowdyc wrote:
Lynnb wrote:
Not alot of oil but I think your right on the money there, my small aircompressor I use for airbrushing has the moisture trap, where would I attach a moisture trap on the big compressor?
Attach the moisture trap to a very long line from the compressor. From there another line to the paint gun. Youtube search "air compressor moisture trap installation" to see the details.
Thanks I will check out youtube.
Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1206

Mon Dec 02, 2019 6:54 pm quote
Hey SoCalGuy and others,
Back with another question, working day shift so I don’t do much in the shop on the Vespa for a couple days so I’ve been researching about the hvlp air guns , particularly the one already mentioned https://www.amazon.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-Paint-Gravity-AT706099/dp/B07YFFCWZ8/ref=pd_sbs_60_6/142-9261887-7067542?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07YFFCWZ8&pd_rd_r=30095bd5-d99b-47bb-b5eb-a81aec00123f&pd_rd_w=oaLEu&pd_rd_wg=fEIZj&pf_rd_p=5873ae95-9063-4a23-9b7e-eafa738c2269&pf_rd_r=M0C0CVBVN1A11ZJQA3NV&psc=1&refRID=M0C0CVBVN1A11ZJQA3NV as well as a couple other Harbour Freight inexpensive ones, so to the question, so these less expensive guns stand up to being disassembled to be cleaned and reassembled and be just as good on the next small job? Guess what I’m saying is are they good for more than just a couple jobs if cleaned properly?
Thanks in advance
Molto Verboso
08 GTS 250, 79 P200E, 62 Allstate
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 1333
Location: Florence, OR
Mon Dec 02, 2019 7:44 pm quote
Lynnb wrote:
Hey SoCalGuy and others,
Back with another question, working day shift so I don’t do much in the shop on the Vespa for a couple days so I’ve been researching about the hvlp air guns , particularly the one already mentioned https://www.amazon.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-Paint-Gravity-AT706099/dp/B07YFFCWZ8/ref=pd_sbs_60_6/142-9261887-7067542?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07YFFCWZ8&pd_rd_r=30095bd5-d99b-47bb-b5eb-a81aec00123f&pd_rd_w=oaLEu&pd_rd_wg=fEIZj&pf_rd_p=5873ae95-9063-4a23-9b7e-eafa738c2269&pf_rd_r=M0C0CVBVN1A11ZJQA3NV&psc=1&refRID=M0C0CVBVN1A11ZJQA3NV as well as a couple other Harbour Freight inexpensive ones, so to the question, so these less expensive guns stand up to being disassembled to be cleaned and reassembled and be just as good on the next small job? Guess what I’m saying is are they good for more than just a couple jobs if cleaned properly?
Thanks in advance
Hey Lynn,

The one above I've taken apart and cleaned a half dozen times. It seems reasonable enough for the amount of painting I'm going to do. But if I decided to paint a whole scooter, I know it'll do the job. Primer, paint, clear coat. Just practice on cardboard with the angles and spray patterns. I found turning the knobs to the extremes sure showed what they do, then dial it way back to a fine spray, and you'll be golden.

Also, I liked the feel of the above gun over the HF one. No experience with the HF, just the feel in my hand. And the two guns above have a pressure regulator included. Gotta play with and throttle back the amount of air you're using also...

I also had a filter on the line to remove any moisture from the airhose. A cheap-o one, but it seemed to do the job.

I'm excited to see what you come up with!

Ossessionato
1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 4916
Location: So Cal
Mon Dec 02, 2019 8:55 pm quote
I prefer LPLV guns ... they work with smaller compressors and produce less overspray than HPLV.

I have an Iwata LPH400. It’s small, light, atomizes beautifully, super well made. Paid about ~$350 for it.

https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-LPH400-144LV-ONLY-8424-20-IWA-5550/dp/B00N3NEEDA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=iwata+lph400&qid=1575347861&sprefix=iwata+l&sr=8-3

I also have one of these, which is basically a clone of the Iwata, it cost about $35:

https://www.amazon.com/SPRAYIT-SP-33000-LVLP-Gravity-Spray/dp/B004DXUXN4

The main difference in the cheaper gun is the quality of the metal, the weight, and the fit of the parts. It doesn’t spray as nicely as the $350 Iwata, but it’s close. Unless you do a lot of painting you probably couldn’t tell the difference.
Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1206

Tue Dec 03, 2019 1:42 am quote
Thanks guys for the feedback , as always much appreciated.
Molto Verboso
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 1206

Tue Dec 03, 2019 1:51 am quote
I had also came across several that the name of them tend to make you think there mad in China or Japan https://www.amazon.ca/Neiko-31214A-Professional-Spray-1-5mm/dp/B00X9OPLEE/ref=pd_cp_60_1/130-8615994-6497309?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00X9OPLEE&pd_rd_r=d7926c73-359a-4459-a030-460009884f92&pd_rd_w=TuExv&pd_rd_wg=znWRK&pf_rd_p=2cf9199e-e65f-43e3-98e2-64b6dc3f6d60&pf_rd_r=KB4PZ6H17KPD8V58CWC8&psc=1&refRID=KB4PZ6H17KPD8V58CWC8 that have the Metal cup rather than the plastic , would this feature itself suggest a descent quality feature?
Ossessionato
1976 Super (x 2), 1974 Primavera (x 2), 2006 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 4916
Location: So Cal
Tue Dec 03, 2019 8:14 am quote
Metal cup is nice, but not a critical feature as it doesn’t directly affect the spray.

What sets the better guns apart from cheaper ones is the machining ... particularly the nozzle, the needle, and the air and fluid passages. The more expensive guns have closer tolerances, which makes the paint flow more uniformly allows more precise control of the spray.

Last edited by SoCalGuy on Tue Dec 03, 2019 8:32 am; edited 1 time in total
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