darwinsm81 wrote:
MJRally wrote:
Sounds like a valve adjustment is needed. Usually the exhaust valve gets out of spec first. If it never got better I'd say carb but the fact that it runs better and restarts easier once warm would make me lean towards valves.
Here's a video of what usually happens - at 58 seconds in is the issue that I am having. Within the first couple of minutes, the idling would not be consistent at a stop. Sometimes it would go low enough that it would shut off. Carb is clean, new oil, spark plug, fuel and air lines. The fuel tap work and I dont think it's a air leak as am able to go normal. I haven't checked the secondary filter and it's been cold weather for the past weeks but I've been riding it every day. Someone had mentioned the choke cable could be the culprit.
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A few questions- When you start it do you really have to play with the throttle to get it to start or just a few spins and it starts? If you really have to twist the throttle and crank it over for more than five seconds I'd say valves. If it starts the same as the summer but lacks performance till it's warm I'd say carb now. I would not say secondary air system, evap system etc. If those were affected it would run shitty all the time.
Ok how cold are we talking about here? A few years back someone on here posted similar cold running questions. He owns a LX150 in NYC. He was commuting to work in the really low temps and had poor performance until things warmed up. Same carb in the summer has no problem whatsoever. I chalked it down to it being too cold outside/old rubber diaphragm being affected by the temps. We ran out of time before we could test my hypothesis and now his scooters in his living (I'll text him and see if he can experiment.)
Item #3- you don't have a choke cable. You don't even have a choke. What you do have is an auto enricher/bystarter. If you'd believe it when cold, the carb has a passage in it that gives more fuel than needed. As the auto enricher gets voltage it warms up and a needle in it extends out, which plugs that extra fuel passage. That's all done internally and on a normal scoot takes just under a minute to extend. You can actually hear your idle slow down after a short period which is proof the needle has plugged the extra fuel circuit. If yours is broken it'd be getting too much fuel all the time and performance would suffer all across the board. You can test the auto bystarter by removing it from the carb, measuring the needle length with a cold engine, giving the bystarter voltage and then re measuring after a few minutes. I'm sure there's a YouTube video showing that test somewhere.
See if you can time how many seconds it takes the get the scooter started to narrow down valves vs carb and if you can note the outside temps. Thanks