Modern Vespa

I talked to Joe yesterday, and he says that he can weld it up no problem. Hopefully, I'll be getting an estimate for that today. I did contact him and he has multiple cases available for replacement. I didn't ask about repair, though so I should probably check on that. Message sent.

Big thanks for everyone's help here. It looks like I'm not in nearly as much of a bind as I was afraid I was. It looks like there are a few good options to choose from.

I found that once I put it in GickSpeeds hands, it was inevitable , porting was happening. One stop shopping.

Check your messages, steve.

There you go , already cleaned.

I got a bit distracted there for a couple of weeks there. My parent's basement flooded and I was helping them "un-finish" it. Anyway, I was talking about my case issues with a buddy at work, and the accounts manager said that her dad was a welding instructor and could probably take care of it. I stopped by today and got everything patched up. It may be be the prettiest, but hey if it works, it works! (I hope it works.) The price: free, woohoo!



I'll send him a case of beers.

How do I get the outer part of the two piece crank bearing out? It's the last thing left to remove. It looks like its held in by six little indented tabs.

greasy explains here ...

race removal

Personally I make a weld run all around at center of the race and it drops by itself. When you weld them on the inside they tend to shrink...

What about those six indents? I've been looking up videos and threads on the topic and every other case I can find is totally smooth all the way around.

When you see indents like these, they are usually made cause the cases are worn and the race fits loose in them...

^^^ Like SaFiS says or,
Weld a bar or bolt across the race. Heat the case. Tap out from other side.

bearing race removal?

another post







Last edited by markosmarkos on Sat Sep 26, 2020 1:18 pm; edited 1 time in total

If you put the case in the oven @400 degrees with the bearing race face down, you may find it falls out.

This was the winning strategy. It didn't fall out, but it did get everything loose enough that I was able to yank it out with an internal bearing puller.

I guess that's the first step complete then: take everything apart. Now I need to clean, clean, clean everything and start ordering replacements for whatever is worn/missing/broken. Then I just have to put it all back together... and do the body work... and take apart the front suspension... and replace the cables... and get everything tuned...

yeah, those indents are evidence of some bullshittery.

i see that you've got it out clean, so just be sure to dress those down before knocking the new one in there.

-g

Yeah, those weren't really doing much of anything. Not sure what was up with that. I've read that the later models have a regular one piece crank bearing instead of the two part. What are the pros and cons of updating to the newer design?

Both my vma1’s had the indents around that bearing. Pretty sure they came that way from the factory. The one that broke a crank had spun that race though. I used bearing retainer compound when I replaced it the second time.

I took a closer look at my cylinder over the weekend. It has some gouges by the exhaust port that I can feel with my finger, and it's slightly elliptical as well. The piston clearance is already at 5 thousandths of an inch so in order to fix that, I'd have to have it honed out and then get an oversize piston to match. That on top of the fact that I'd have to clean in between all the cooling fins makes me think that a bolt on cylinder kit with a new piston and everything included might be the way to go here. Briefly looking into it, there are quite a few. What's the rundown on the various cylinder kits?



Also, this crank bearing feels pretty good, but I'm not to thrilled about this seal seat. That might be due for a replacement as well.

Maybe a dumb question, but I can't find a definitive answer online. I'm doing research online and get into carburetors. My bike has a Dell'Orto SHB 16/16 but the VMA2T and most of the subsequent smallframes came with a 19/19. What do those two numbers actually refer to? I'm guessing the 16/16 is just smaller and delivers less fuel, but are those specific measurements? Should I be looking at replacing my original carb; will it be able to handle anything but a completely bone stock engine? I'm not planning anything big right now, but may down the road.

The 16/16 refers to the throat size and venturi size. 16mm throat carb running around a 16mm venturi. Some small frames (50cc) had a 16/10 which was a 16mm throat that narrowed down to 10mm at the venturi for the main jet.

A 19/19 will wake that engine up nicely.

NIce Blue Badge, interested to see how it shapes up!

Thanks! I haven't really updated in a while, but nothing all that interesting has happened. Just a slow process or taking little things apart and cleaning them up. I have the engine pretty much ready to go now; all the components that I'll be reusing are cleaned and polished up. I took apart the front end and found that all the suspension and wheel bearings have fresh grease and seem to be in good condition, so I'll probably just clean the gunk off everything and leave them alone for the time being. Once I finish going through everything, it will finally be time to place the mother lode SIP order. This is the current state of my laundry room:

We should meet up once this virus magically disappears in two weeks!

AKA next summer. When both our Allstates are running. My Aunt lived in York till she passed a year or 2 ago. I'm over in Philly and have a 58 Allstate slightly behind your project. Next week I can order some tools to get the fork out and other assorted stuff.

There was a PK80 with a 130cc upgrade kit on Craigslist out by you for a while that I had a eye on but they wanted way too much, considering I got my 58 for $450

Nice! I've been following your project thread, too.

I got my special floor rails off, but I'm not sure how I should approach them. Is the rubber impossible to replace also or can I replace it with some new stuff? How do I get the old rubber strips out of the channel? I tried spraying soapy water all over it and pushing the end of the rubber stripe to try to get it to start sliding out the other end, but that didn't really work. I could just pry them out, but I don't want to damage anything important.



Also, any tips on the best strategy to use straightening out my wonky floorboards?

hammer and block for the floor boards.

someone made a vice grip with a rod welded to a jaw and a flat plank on the other to bend the edges. I assume it works better than my way of using channel locks and bending in 1/4" increments all around.

this ones availble from SM
http://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Factory-Tools/SAINTS-6000_5

1. Use two blocks of wood and a C-clamp to straighten.

2. Then hammer and dolly high spots.

3. Then fill and sand until you’re happy with result.

Crimper tool works well on the edges.

The rubber is the same as Rally/sprint rubber.