Rats! Flats!
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Hooked
Stella 2T 150, Honda C70
Joined: 25 Sep 2019
Posts: 136
Location: Seattle
Mon Oct 12, 2020 4:59 pm quote
Ok I'm on my second flat in as many weeks. These are the first two flats I've ever had. On the plus side, I can now swap out a tube and fix a flat in less than 30 minutes. But its still a pain and nothing I want to do in the dark, in the rain, in the cold.

So a bunch of questions...

First, it seems like this second flat was the result of a bit of rust on the inside of the rim. The tube was pierced right at the seam between the two rim halves.

Second, someone explain to me how tubeless rims mean less flats. If I run over a rusty nail or a really shiny junk needle, how am I not equally flat regardless of tube or no tube?

Do the split aluminum rims help at all? I like the idea of tubes that can be patched in a pinch, but I also like the idea of go-faster aluminum rims (aka less rotating weight).

Please advise, in this regard money is not really an issue.

Hal
Ossessionato
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 2689

Mon Oct 12, 2020 9:03 pm quote
Ahhh....you brought up something that i like to hear....less rotating mass! Yes it's a real thing. Even on 10" wheels! I used the 2.5" SIP tubeless when racing, and they worked exellent for that. I could feel a difference between them and the stock split rims. A 2.1" split rim and innertube weighs roughly 4lbs 4oz. A 2.5" SIP tubeless weighs in at about 2lbs 8oz. Acceleration was indeed better on the tubeless. That being said, i use the stock steel split rims on all of my road going scooters. Why?...10 times out of 10 you won't be able to dismount a tubless tire off the rim on the side of the road. I haven't felt a need to switch to tubeless for highway commuting. If my split rims get rusty, then it's my own fault that i didn't do the basic maintenance to keep the rust at bay. I just make sure to inspect the steel rims everytime i dismount a tire. Either i clean the rust off REALLY well with a wire wheel and some Ospho, have them sandblasted and powdercoated, or buy new split rims.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 7967
Location: Victoria, Australia
Mon Oct 12, 2020 9:42 pm quote
Got a bunch of flats. Got tired of it. The last three were definitely down to dragging the rear brake through twisty downhills... after slowing the tubes would let go and go down. Last time the heat in the rear hub and rim was amazing. Like couldn't-touch-without-burning-your-fingers hot.
I reckon the tube material these days has less rubber and more plastic. In these last cases it went at the seam on the inside like yours, but I am positive they were not pinched.

Anyway I have Pinasco rims now, no flats since then... perhaps 2 years?
They are apparently around the same weight as stock, maybe a touch less. But they are chunky and strong. And also straight! My stock rims all eventually went wonky which used to bug me no end.

Yes I can change the tyres on them but I'd rather not have to do it on the side of the road. Probably better to repair the hole or whatever using a kit.
Enthusiast
too many
Joined: 16 May 2012
Posts: 66
Location: Norway
Mon Oct 12, 2020 11:11 pm quote
My main reason for going tubeless is safety.

With a tube, you normally get what called "blow-out", that would be all air out of the tube in a fraction in a second.

And I don't recomend doing 60+ on the highway or elsewhere with a flat tyre.

With a tubeless, the air would leak out in alot slower pace, giving you the time to coast to the side of the road in a safe manner.


And with a tubeless, you could fix (temporarely) with "emergency-fix" on a box, like the one used on cars.


And as a bonus, the tubeless rims are 100% round, not egg-shaped like old battered split-rims...
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