Modern Vespa

It's my understanding that a P/PX tank will fit all the way back to a VNA frame.
Can u put electric start on VNL3M (aka 125TS aka early P125X I was
about to do the oil injection conversion on my P2 powered '61 Allstate, but at some point someone removed the spindle out of the P2 engine that the mixer gear spins around on. highlight=oil+injection+conversion Autolube / sight glass template for VBB / Sportique / 150

If you're up for a small challenge, it could be a fun project to do. I don't mind mixing my oil, but i dislike having to carry around a bottle of 2-stoke oil everywhere i go. The oil injection would make it much more convenient for sure, but if it's not your thing, then i wouldn't waste your time doing it.

I found a video of Soprano
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTSA_sWGM44

Tom Netherton's rusky doppelganger? I didn't realize that they had a knockoff Laurence Welk show hiding behind the iron curtain. www.youtube.com/watch?v=HR60a9mfik4

I think for now I'll go without it but save the parts if I remove them, never know what the future holds. Maybe I'll want it in 10 years.

Got some new bits in the mail today.
Speedo and switch and the front wheel 8-10” conversion. Still waiting on the body to be ready and should have the engine back in 3 weeks-ish.

Should I install a battery for the speedo or just run it off the stator? I saw some people had issues with it resetting over and over and over again when idling?

Will I need to make a wiring loom? I have no wires currently. Or would I be able to just buy one? The only powered things on the scoot are the head and tail light and now the speedo. Dunno if the stock stator would have enough juice to power it all at idle? Anyone have any experience here?

Fun!

Anyone have any tips on getting the front wheel thing off? I can’t seem to find any way to get it off. The rear just pulled right off the axle this front one though, can’t figure out how to remove it.

I got the brake pads off already which was a pain with that thing still in the way

Hey FM,

There should be a big bulbous cover that needs to be removed on the opposite side of the wheel studs. Then under that cover is a nut. I believe the cover and nut use the same size socket as the rear axle nut.

Once those two things are removed you should be able to tap out the axle. You may need to put the nut on and hit on that so you don't mess up the threads, or it may have a punch area in the center of the axle - I don't recall.

Either way, this is how that thing comes apart. OH - make sure you remove the speedo gear out of there first. If not you'll be chewing up those threads when you remove the axle. Yes, I did it - twice!

Hope this helps.

Last edited by qascooter on Sat Jan 16, 2021 11:37 am; edited 1 time in total

What QA said. Number 37 and 36. Both use a 22mm socket.

Thanks qa and chatis!

I had taken those screws off and tried tapping on the axle but probably way too lightly. Didn't wanna damage the threads so I tapped lightly with a flathead screwdriver to see if it would pop out easily. Wasn't sure if it was one piece or two so figured I'd ask the experts just in case I was missing something. Thanks, I'll soak it a bit then tap again.


Another question. Ospho and the channel. How does one do that exactly? Do I pour a bunch in then spin the whole body around to coat all sides or would I be doing it the hard way trying that?

FM,

NO tapping mate. Put the nut on to protect the threads, get a punch and a dead blow (or heavy hammer), and smack the axel HARD.

Rust in the tunnel has various schools of thought. All will agree you have to do whatever you can to get as much loose rust and scale out of the tunnel before you treat it. Threads on this forum will give you all ideas. I used nuts, bolts, screws and a friend to shake the crap out of it, and then a BBQ brush. I didn’t use Ospho – I used Eastwood internal frame coating. But many swear by Ospho. Just make sure you don’t get it on your concrete floor!!!

That is quite the project you got going. Did you check frame alignment after that fork mishap?

Lynnb- I did. still somehow straight!

And yea a total gut job. Kinda like my house. I should be ready to start to reassemble in the next few weeks. Dunno what to do about the wiring still. Was thinking of either just getting a VNA harness and running that since I don't have a battery, but may need a battery with the digital speedo. So that's left me aimless currently. Worrying about the other stuff first. But I'll need to run the wires before I put it all back together. Kinda stuck there.

But good news got that axle out. Put the inner nut back on and whacked it real good and it finally released. The bearings will probably need to be replaced they're a bit gummy. Was gonna try and clean them and regrease but figure it's probably a waste of time and effort.

Slowly it's coming together. Got the cables and new fork bearings so Once I get the fender off to clean it I'll be able to put that back together.

Replace the bearings with new sealed ones. If they are the same as the 65 Allstate I have new sealed ones I will give to you.

Thank you! I’ll measure them tomorrow. I’m assuming they’re different but we shall see.

Got the bearings out. They are something else...


that seal is so gnarly

This is what I have:

6201-2RS Double Rubber Seal Bearings 12x32x10mm, Pre-Lubricated, Deep Groove Ball Bearings.
6203-2RS Double Rubber Seal Bearings 17x40x12mm, Pre-Lubricated, Deep Groove Ball Bearings.

The digital readout on the Vernier would be great

They look correct. You will not need that felt seal with sealed bearings.

Lets see what others have to offer regarding suitability.

The battery in there died like 6 years ago, I'll probably get a new one in it by the end of the decade at my current rate.


In other news I Ospho'd the beegezus outta the tunnel and rusty spots today real quick. And having a devil of a time getting the screws off the front fender. Rusted and stripped flat heads. Not sure there's anything worse! How difficult is it to replace a shock and dampener with the front fender still attached since I can't get the damn screw off?

Still chugging along over here.
Cleaned out the wheel well and found this stamped into the frame. Any one have any guesses as to what this is for?

It’s not the same number that’s stamped under the glove box cowl. But it IS stamped on the reverse side of that. No clue what it could be.

And last night I also bit the bullet and bent and laid out the floor rails. I had some anxiety about that, what if I mess it up and don’t have any spares yadda yadda yadda. Turned out to be not too bad. Little bending at a time to get it close then just marked where the holes need to be drilled.
Can’t find the drill bit I need though in the mess of a shop.

Be careful, or you can damage the paint!

Those floor rails really tie the room together man.


Looks great!

Hahahah DEFINITELY don’t wanna mess up that pristine paint!

Another question. What are these two pieces that came in the floor rail kit for? Flat on one side and rounded on the other. Do these go under the floor rail that’s on the edge? I’m assuming the rounded part is supposed to fit in the edge channel?

You got it, so you need to get those edge channels in the floor shaped right and on a nice plane.




For how I reformed this crooked mess, look here: http://modernvespa.com/forum/post2147977#2147977

Thanks V oodoo, I thought so but since none of this stuff comes with instructions ya never know. Gotta clean up the edges then.

Got the fender off and fork disassembled for cleaning and derusting. Almost ready to start putting back together which is exciting.

Fork

Inside fork

Welp. Tonight I learned that I physically can not install rivets. My left arm is a pos. Never really recovered from 7 surgeries and I can’t squeeze with that arm at all. So trying to push the rivet in the rail while tapping the underside didn’t work at all. Tried to switch hands and made it three taps before my arm quit. Guess I’ll have to use a rivet gun like a wuss.

Good news is I ospho’d the fender full of rust and the fork bits.

There is no shame at all in using pop rivets under the rubber strips on the floor rails. But try to use the peened ones on the endcaps.