I might need quite a lot of help!!
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Member
PX125
Joined: 14 Nov 2020
Posts: 12
Location: North London
Sat Nov 14, 2020 1:34 pm quote
Hi everybody!
Incredibly Iíve become the owner of a PX125.
She is a stunner and Iím in love... however like all big first loves Iím in over my head!
She is a 2014 2 stroke and has been sitting in a garage since the day she was new- so only about 60miles on the clock.
Iíve had her a couple of weeks, not really had a chance to ride her much and she was starting ok struggled a bit when idle but when she was warm she was fine.
This week when I started the engine she faded after about 30 secs and now I canít get her to start.
She is turning but not firing. Tried ignition key and kick start.
Iíve charged the battery.
Incase I flooded the engine Iíve taken out spark plug and turned her over.
Iíve also changed the spark plug... what else am I missing? Iím a amateur but I really want to learn rather then go straight to a mechanic... but please talk basics to me- assume I no nothing!
Thanks in advance x
Moderator
P200 VNB Li125
Joined: 28 May 2008
Posts: 4489
Location: Hustletown, TX
Sat Nov 14, 2020 1:45 pm quote
Welcome. Congrats on the sccoot. I suspect having sat for years it had a cruddy gas tank, so when you ran it for a few miles the other day it probably fouled the carb.

You are gonna need to clean the gas tank and remove and clean the carburetor. There are a ton of good YouTube videos out there on how to clean carburetors. Or check the scooter mercato website for a good stepwise pictorial.

http://www.scootermercato.com/Garage/Tech-Tips/Carb-Rebuild_2
Member
PX125
Joined: 14 Nov 2020
Posts: 12
Location: North London
Sat Nov 14, 2020 2:35 pm quote
Thatís brilliant! Thank you.
Hopefully that will do the trick. Thatís my Sunday sorted!
One more question-
Do I need to ďrun it inĒ Iíve seen on other forums with Pxs with new engines or is that a pre mix thing?
Iím not even sure if my question makes sense I feel like Iím learning a new language!
X
Molto Verboso
2007 Stella 150
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 1257
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Sat Nov 14, 2020 2:43 pm quote
Margot1984 wrote:
Thatís brilliant! Thank you.
Hopefully that will do the trick. Thatís my Sunday sorted!
One more question-
Do I need to ďrun it inĒ Iíve seen on other forums with Pxs with new engines or is that a pre mix thing?
Iím not even sure if my question makes sense I feel like Iím learning a new language!
X
With only 60 miles, yes you need to do the break in period. Not really bad to do. There are lots of different methods etc. Usually the factory says for the first few hundred miles, don't run wide open throttle or at a constant rpm. Being that new, does it still have the run in sticker on the glove box top?
Hooked
Stella 2T 150, Honda C70
Joined: 25 Sep 2019
Posts: 148
Location: Seattle
Sat Nov 14, 2020 3:14 pm quote
60 miles? Did they drive it home and park it for never? You need to post some pics!

whereshaldo
Member
PX125
Joined: 14 Nov 2020
Posts: 12
Location: North London
Sun Nov 15, 2020 12:45 am quote
Great, as soon as I get her started Iíll get some miles on her. Iíll check about the sticker and let you know!
Member
PX125
Joined: 14 Nov 2020
Posts: 12
Location: North London
Sun Nov 15, 2020 12:46 am quote
whereshaldo wrote:
60 miles? Did they drive it home and park it for never? You need to post some pics!

whereshaldo
Yep! Exactly that! Iíll get some photos for you!
Molto Verboso
One or two fun scoots....nothing too precious
Joined: 17 Jul 2013
Posts: 1557
Location: UK (South East)
Sun Nov 15, 2020 1:12 am quote
I recently bought a 2003 PX200 with 2 miles on the clock. Bought and stored from new by the first owner as part of a small collection. It did start easily, but smoked a lot and smelt awful. Once I had drained the fuel and replaced with fresh, the smoke and smell went away. The fuel was refreshed by the previous owner from time to time, but clearly not that regularly.

If your fuel smells like turpentine, that's likely the problem
Member
PX125
Joined: 14 Nov 2020
Posts: 12
Location: North London
Sun Nov 15, 2020 11:57 am quote
swa45 wrote:
I recently bought a 2003 PX200 with 2 miles on the clock. Bought and stored from new by the first owner as part of a small collection. It did start easily, but smoked a lot and smelt awful. Once I had drained the fuel and replaced with fresh, the smoke and smell went away. The fuel was refreshed by the previous owner from time to time, but clearly not that regularly.

If your fuel smells like turpentine, that's likely the problem
Oh it really stank ( I quite liked it! 😂)
Iím guessing we are in the same situation then.
Thanks for the advice, I hope you are enjoying your new bike!
Member
PX125
Joined: 14 Nov 2020
Posts: 12
Location: North London
Sun Nov 15, 2020 12:01 pm quote
Update:
Thanks so much for all your kinds words and help. I didnít end up getting out to play on the scooter today but I will be spending the day on her on Tuesday
Where Iíll be -

Cleaning out the fuel tank
Cleaning the carb

If there are any other jobs you think r worth while please let me know!
Hopefully she will be on the road soon!
X
Moderator
P200 VNB Li125
Joined: 28 May 2008
Posts: 4489
Location: Hustletown, TX
Sun Nov 15, 2020 4:50 pm quote
Clean or replace the fuel line too.

It's sure to have old caramelized gas and muck in it too.
Member
PX125
Joined: 14 Nov 2020
Posts: 12
Location: North London
Tue Nov 17, 2020 4:24 am quote
Hmmm just thought Iíd check to see if I had a spark at all before I started taking her apart and nothing... no spark... tried 3 different plugs and cable.
continue course of action or change direction to electrics?
🤦🏻‍♀️
Ossessionato
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella
Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Posts: 2903
Location: Nashville
Tue Nov 17, 2020 5:48 am quote
start with the electrics. You'll never know if the carb is working if you don't have spark.

Some pictures of the scoot, including one with a close-up of the engine will help a lot, because we can mark those up and post them back to explain what we're referring to, and it'll be *your* engine so there's no confusion.

I'm going to assume your knowledge level is pretty much zero, since I'd rather over-explain than over-confuse if you already know what I'm talking about. Feel free to adjust expectations and we'll adjust our advice accordingly

First thing to do is try disconnecting the kills witch wire. That's one of the two green wires into the CDI. The CDI is the small nylon box that the spark plug wire comes out of. It's probably bright blue and should be attached to the back of the motor.

If you look at the wiring harness, there will be one set of red-green-white wires coming out of the motor case through a tunnel to the stator plate, which sits behind the flywheel. These provide the accumulation of electricity into the stator along with the timing signal telling it when to fire.

The second green wire will run back into the wiring harness and is the kill switch. It grounds the stator CDI, preventing the spark plug from firing. If that wire is shorting out for any reason (and it's a known issue, but generally on 1970's bikes) it will kill the spark. So start there.

You may also have inadvertantly pulled the spark plug wire out of the CDI. It's connected by screwing the wire down onto basically a sheet metal screw. I can be loose and produce intermittent spark, e.g. "it dies when I go over a bump" or be completely loose, but still held in place by the spark plug wire boot. If that's the case, cut 1/4" of with a pair of scissors or dykes and just screw it back down. Cutting 1/4" off won't hurt anything.

You can also test spark by putting the spark plug into the spark plug cap and grounding the tip to the motor. If you pull the plug from the cylinder at the same time, it's really easy to kick over to test if things are working, as well as test different plugs in rapid succession.

Good luck! And pictures! definitely post some pictures!
Member
P200
Joined: 12 Aug 2019
Posts: 16
Location: Springfield, Oregon
Tue Nov 17, 2020 7:05 am quote
Since I had to get a ride home from work once because my scooter wouldnít start only to return the next morning to find the kill switch (which I never use) in the off position, I can ask this. Is the kill switch on? 🙂
Member
PX125
Joined: 14 Nov 2020
Posts: 12
Location: North London
Wed Nov 18, 2020 1:21 pm quote
chandlerman wrote:
start with the electrics. You'll never know if the carb is working if you don't have spark.

Some pictures of the scoot, including one with a close-up of the engine will help a lot, because we can mark those up and post them back to explain what we're referring to, and it'll be *your* engine so there's no confusion.

I'm going to assume your knowledge level is pretty much zero, since I'd rather over-explain than over-confuse if you already know what I'm talking about. Feel free to adjust expectations and we'll adjust our advice accordingly

First thing to do is try disconnecting the kills witch wire. That's one of the two green wires into the CDI. The CDI is the small nylon box that the spark plug wire comes out of. It's probably bright blue and should be attached to the back of the motor.

If you look at the wiring harness, there will be one set of red-green-white wires coming out of the motor case through a tunnel to the stator plate, which sits behind the flywheel. These provide the accumulation of electricity into the stator along with the timing signal telling it when to fire.

The second green wire will run back into the wiring harness and is the kill switch. It grounds the stator CDI, preventing the spark plug from firing. If that wire is shorting out for any reason (and it's a known issue, but generally on 1970's bikes) it will kill the spark. So start there.

You may also have inadvertantly pulled the spark plug wire out of the CDI. It's connected by screwing the wire down onto basically a sheet metal screw. I can be loose and produce intermittent spark, e.g. "it dies when I go over a bump" or be completely loose, but still held in place by the spark plug wire boot. If that's the case, cut 1/4" of with a pair of scissors or dykes and just screw it back down. Cutting 1/4" off won't hurt anything.

You can also test spark by putting the spark plug into the spark plug cap and grounding the tip to the motor. If you pull the plug from the cylinder at the same time, it's really easy to kick over to test if things are working, as well as test different plugs in rapid succession.

Good luck! And pictures! definitely post some pictures!
This is great thank you!
Iím gonna spend the whole weekend on he rao this is so helpful!
X
Member
PX125
Joined: 14 Nov 2020
Posts: 12
Location: North London
Wed Nov 18, 2020 1:23 pm quote
Scootnewb wrote:
Since I had to get a ride home from work once because my scooter wouldnít start only to return the next morning to find the kill switch (which I never use) in the off position, I can ask this. Is the kill switch on? 🙂
Ha! That is definitely the sort of thing I would do- She has an immobiliser, is that the same thing?
Iíve looked and I canít find any other switch
X
Member
PX125
Joined: 14 Nov 2020
Posts: 12
Location: North London
Wed Nov 18, 2020 1:29 pm quote
Guys I really canít believe how great and helpful you all are!
Here are some photo of my girl.
Iím hopefully gonna spend all weekend working on her so fingers crossed I might get her on the road soon!

8ED4CF19-04B5-4235-BBB6-847C65EAF037.jpeg

Member
PX125
Joined: 14 Nov 2020
Posts: 12
Location: North London
Wed Nov 18, 2020 1:31 pm quote
Engine

69EE4231-D373-4E84-A4CF-6161BA01C9B0.jpeg

Member
PX125
Joined: 14 Nov 2020
Posts: 12
Location: North London
Wed Nov 18, 2020 1:33 pm quote
🛵

082276CA-38E0-480C-B7FB-4DCF8C086614.jpeg

Hooked
PX125E
Joined: 06 Oct 2018
Posts: 178
Location: Gravesend, Kent, UK
Wed Nov 18, 2020 5:23 pm quote
Starting.
Hello mate.
Going by the information you have posted. I would suggest the ignition problem is due to the battery dragging down the volts.
Disconnect the battery by removing the neutral wire marked (ó) black wire.

Remove spark plug.
Put it in plug cap
Rest it against something metal. Top of engine Not the plastic bit in front
Make sure the ignition switch is on.
The spark is tiny and not really visible in bright daylight.

A sure method it to give the spark plug to your mate to hold in his right hand and his left against the frame, Engine, backrest or any metal part. Kick it over. If he screams the Ignition is working.
Style Maven
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa PK50XL2 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special '66(?) Super125
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7949
Location: seattle/athens
Wed Nov 18, 2020 8:52 pm quote
I FULLY agree with the above, and love your lovely 'new' black paint and tiny miles.

I predict that you will soon be having lots of fun and admiring glances.
Hooked
Rat 2003 Stella 2T; 1979 P125x (in pieces, out for paint)
Joined: 12 Sep 2015
Posts: 273
Location: Madtown
Thu Nov 19, 2020 10:13 am quote
What's that black box on top of the cylinder and tube going down toward the exhaust? Some kind of emissions-control?
Hooked
PX125E
Joined: 06 Oct 2018
Posts: 178
Location: Gravesend, Kent, UK
Thu Nov 19, 2020 2:28 pm quote
yackee wrote:
What's that black box on top of the cylinder and tube going down toward the exhaust? Some kind of emissions-control?
Yes. Itís a filter and one way valve that feeds air into the exhaust before the catalytic converter. Itís purely mechanical. When Margot gets it running, replacing the Exhaust will be the first post on how to increase the power form 6 to 8 horsepower for £200.
Hooked
Stella 2T 150, Honda C70
Joined: 25 Sep 2019
Posts: 148
Location: Seattle
Thu Nov 19, 2020 6:37 pm quote
That's a pretty simple whip. We should probably trade, my egg yolk orange LML (actually a Stella, whoooooooo! for you Limeys) for your sooty black post-industrial lump. I mean its barely earned its stripes yet, and you'd be well served to have a higher mileage, reliablity-proven, steed that has already endured a few scrapes and bumps. Will save you a few schillings in service and more than a few pounds in emotional scarring when you encounter a rogue lorry.

I'm willing to make this sacrifice for you to welcome you into our small community.

h
Addicted
'66 Super 150
Joined: 11 Jul 2017
Posts: 715
Location: MN
Fri Nov 20, 2020 5:40 pm quote
Hi Margot, and welcome to MV! Congrats on your gorgeous shiny new girl. She is a stunning beauty!

I have no mechanical advice for you because I am still a newb at that kind of stuff. But, it sounds as though you have at least a moderate amount of ability and experience with a wrench.....lots more than I had when I arrived.

With all of the helpful and knowledgeable forum members here troubleshooting for you, Iím guessing youíll be out zooming the roadways with a big excited smile very soon. Thereís nothing quite like the first few months riding your sweet Vespaóitís SO FUN!! Be sure to post up some first ride pics
Ossessionato
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella
Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Posts: 2903
Location: Nashville
Fri Nov 20, 2020 6:32 pm quote
That's a nice looking scoot, all right.

The motor looks completely unmolested and the whopping 62 Km's makes spark problems kind've interesting.

Right now, let's isolate the problem and make 100% sure it's lack of spark and not some other issue, most likely fuel and/or carb related, which I'll give you the quick n' dirty test after we discuss spark a touch more.

When you test spark, are you using the new spark plug, or the plug that was in the motor? Plugs are cheap (like a couple bucks). I don't think the plug is going to be the cause, but it's such an easy test, and you can never go wrong having a spare around.

Assuming that you don't have spark with the new plug grounded to bare metal on the motor, we can continue to dig in on what's failing and how.

If you *do* have spark, the next thing I would to is head over to the nearest auto parts or DIY store and pick up a can of starting fluid (ether in a spray can) and a can of SeaFoam gasoline additive.

If you didn't do so already, drain the gas tank and put in fresh fuel, then add the Seafoam to the gas. It will clean an amazing amount of varnish and general crud out of the fuel system once the motor is running a little.

Then, remove the airbox cover and spray some starting fluid onto the air filter. A half-a-second spray is plenty, then crank the motor over. If you have spark, the ether will cause the motor to run for a few seconds, probably smoke a lot, then quit at first. This test verifies that you have spark and compression, meaning that the only thing you're missing is fuel and air in an appropriate ratio.

Do this a few times and if you're lucky, it'll start to run a little longer each time. Once you get good, you'll even learn to pulse the starting fluid onto the air filter to keep it running. I've started motors and gotten them to run (not well, but it fundamentally works) long enough to get some fuel flowing and work the worst of the gunk out of the carb and fuel system using this method even after they've been sitting for ten years or more.

Ideally, some of the Londoners on here can find a couple hours to swing by and give things a once over.
Style Maven
74 50s x3 78 P200 84 Cosa PK50XL2 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special '66(?) Super125
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 7949
Location: seattle/athens
Sat Nov 21, 2020 12:16 am quote
legit
whereshaldo wrote:
That's a pretty simple whip. We should probably trade, my egg yolk orange LML (actually a Stella, whoooooooo! for you Limeys) for your sooty black post-industrial lump. I mean its barely earned its stripes yet, and you'd be well served to have a higher mileage, reliablity-proven, steed that has already endured a few scrapes and bumps. Will save you a few schillings in service and more than a few pounds in emotional scarring when you encounter a rogue lorry.

I'm willing to make this sacrifice for you to welcome you into our small community.

h
Sounds about right, except over there they're forced by Royal decree to call it STAR on pain of hefty fines and certain confiscation!.

Work out shipping, each paying half and looks very fair indeed for our new friend I think.
He does offer proven real world benefits, especially for one just starting out. Better scare up a STAR badge though
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