The tale of two rebuilds - VNB2 and VNB5
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Jet Eye Master
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 2692
Location: London UK
Sun Dec 13, 2020 3:49 pm quote
Here's what I do.
1) Installing the seals. Loctite 603
2) Installing the bearings: assembly oil, or loctite 603
3) Mating cases - leave the gasket dry
4) Cylinder Base gasket: suitable rtv sealer
Hooked
79p200e 66smallstate 85pk50xl 84p125ets 63GL
Joined: 24 Nov 2016
Posts: 275
Location: Flatness, TX
Mon Dec 14, 2020 10:33 am quote
Subscribed and eagerly attending. After the last ride on Birdsnest's VNB, the 60/8 club will have 2 new members, I am sure. Ludicrous speed/acceleration awaits you!
Ossessionato
2015 GTS300, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 4598
Location: San Diego, CA
Mon Dec 14, 2020 10:53 am quote
Re: How would you do it?
qascooter wrote:
1) Installing the seals. Dry? Oil? Red Loctite?
2) Installing the bearings: Dry? Oil?
3) Mating cases - leave the gasket: Dry? Oil? Grease? Gasketseal?
4) Cylinder Base gasket: Dry? Grease? Gasket seal?

my picks
1) grease or oil on seal mating surface
2) grease on moving parts
3) grease or hylomar
4) motoseal
bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x 2), 74 Primavera (x 2), 06 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 5743
Location: So Cal
Mon Dec 14, 2020 2:29 pm quote
Iím with sdjohn. Motoseal the case gasket if the mating surfaces are iffy.

poidog: glad to see another convert. Keeping an eye out for a 60/8 project for you.
Ossessionato
2015 GTS300, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 4598
Location: San Diego, CA
Mon Dec 14, 2020 3:00 pm quote
SoCalGuy wrote:
Iím with sdjohn. Motoseal the case gasket if the mating surfaces are iffy.

poidog: glad to see another convert. Keeping an eye out for a 60/8 project for you.
agreed - if the sealing surfaces are sketchy on the case I'd totally hit it with motoseal as well. that stuff is magic.
Ossessionato
79 P200E, 62 Allstate, 2008 Stella
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 2067
Location: Florence, OR
Mon Dec 14, 2020 7:39 pm quote
Hey, thank you guys! This is just the info we were hoping for. It arms us with a bit of knowledge on how everyone else does it.

Chatis - You're probably right!

Swiss - thanks for the FreakMoped Vid. I haven't watched it yet, but will.

Jack - leave the case gasket dry - I've been wondering about this one and the benefits it has, like allowing reopening of the cases to be easy.

SDJohn & SoCalGuy - Motoseal is ordered and on it's way. Thanks! Better to have it here on sight then not and realize the cases need it.

And we haven't checked the space in the gear cluster. Gotta watch Robot's 125 rebuild to see how that's done and what the tolerance should be.

Hopefully parts will be coming by the end of the week. In the meantime we can remove the existing engine buffers/mounts and port the input to match the carb box on both cases. Coming up soon!

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We're gonna recreate this picture with the Allstates this spring :)

Ossessionato
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 2179
Location: california
Mon Dec 14, 2020 9:22 pm quote
One good turn deserves another...
Greasy - that's a magic trick - have struggled with those damn rotor allen heads...

General - I have old cases - so just didn't trust building without motoseal. It makes it air tight - no question - but is a pain in the ass if you have to re-open - which I did about 4 times fitting mine.

Magic trick I learned: use 3m bristle disc - use the yellow.
Put in a drill or air tool - will not damage the aluminum - but just eats the motoseal.
Saw it on YouTube with some classic Yamaha cases - so felt safe trying.
Have now used it 2 dozen times - anywhere I have motoseal on aluminum.
Drink a cup of tea and remove it all with ease.

Napa had em - and so did auto zone. About $10 apiece and they last forever as little as we use it for our needs.

https://www.amazon.com/Goodson-3M-Roloc-Bristle-Disc/dp/B0009RMAFM/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=3m+roll+bristle+disc+yellow&qid=1608009677&s=automotive&sr=1-1

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Ossessionato
79 P200E, 62 Allstate, 2008 Stella
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 2067
Location: Florence, OR
Mon Dec 14, 2020 9:42 pm quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Magic trick I learned: use 3m bristle disc - use the yellow.
Excellent! Thanks for the tip!
Jet Eye Master
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 2692
Location: London UK
Wed Dec 16, 2020 1:45 am quote
qascooter wrote:
Jack - leave the case gasket dry - I've been wondering about this one and the benefits it has, like allowing reopening of the cases to be easy.
Well as you mention it, there are many benefits of not using any sealer. If you don't have casings that have been levered open with a rusty spoon. Then sealer is not needed. When sealer is the only way its fairly obvious.
Splitting with a dry gasket is benefit enough. Nothing to clean up.
Caution though, sealer can actually make them leak. There is no gasket sealer anywhere that will endure constant contact with petrol. Resistant doesn't mean petrol proof. Over time any sealer will erode in petrol. Too much sealer actually causes the oil sucker problem on P cases, as the gasket can float away from the lip as they are tightened.
If you split your engine every year or two and pressure test them, then do what makes you happy but otherwise, I say, no sealer on any constant petrol areas.
Ossessionato
79 P200E, 62 Allstate, 2008 Stella
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 2067
Location: Florence, OR
Wed Dec 16, 2020 8:20 pm quote
Jack221 wrote:
If you split your engine every year or two and pressure test them, then do what makes you happy but otherwise, I say, no sealer on any constant petrol areas.
Excellent! Thanks Jack!
bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x 2), 74 Primavera (x 2), 06 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 5743
Location: So Cal
Wed Dec 16, 2020 10:48 pm quote
The Vespa service manual says to use ďseal pasteĒ on the case gasket. I think putting it on dry might be asking for problems.

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Ossessionato
79 P200E, 62 Allstate, 2008 Stella
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 2067
Location: Florence, OR
Thu Dec 17, 2020 9:01 pm quote
Thanks SCG - Chris and I are "discussing" the various ways. We may put the cases together differently, just for grins.

And speaking of that, we got together and worked cleaning and inspecting the pile of parts. While cleaning was going on, FedEx arrived with parts (thanks David)

We then installed the new shifting cross, clutch internals (plates, brass bushing, brass washer), and took apart the Cush drive for B62. Pain in the ass without a drill press, but we managed fine. Chris is taking his with him and doing it on his end.

Oh, and the clutch on B62 takes a smaller brass bushing, and brass washer. Bummer. Might be time for a new clutch for B62 afterall. I just used the old brass bushing for now, with the new plates and springs.

We've still got a bunch to do, and more parts to get, but at least the reassembly process has begun! Woohooo!

Oh, and we had to knock off early to go for a ride, naturally. Just a quick spin to the jetty overlook and the rowdy ocean. It's the rainy season, so 52 degrees and wet roads is the norm at this time of year, but we're both used to it, so no biggy. Ruby and Olive are not trailer queens, but made to ride, rain or shine!

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Old vs New. Big difference...

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Gears cleaned, measured, inspected, new crosses (blue loctite), and ready to go. I forgot to get pics of the clutches.

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Parts! Wooohooo!

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Ruby and Olive at the Jetty overlook

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Ruby, Chris, and Olive at the ocean!

Addicted
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
Joined: 06 May 2019
Posts: 574
Location: Roseburg, Oregon
Thu Dec 17, 2020 10:14 pm quote
You guys are making good progress! Bite by Bite! Love it
Moderator
VNB VSC VBC VSX
Joined: 28 May 2008
Posts: 4772
Location: Hustletown, TX
Fri Dec 18, 2020 4:36 am quote
That overlook shot looks like it is worth the ride!

Nice progress on your builds.
Ossessionato
79 P200E, 62 Allstate, 2008 Stella
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 2067
Location: Florence, OR
Sat Dec 19, 2020 10:20 am quote
Thanks GL - slow and steady
Birdsnest wrote:
That overlook shot looks like it is worth the ride!
It's a cool spot that most locals don't even know about - every time I'm up that way on Rhododendron Road I check it out and get a feel for the conditions of the ocean and river mouth. You never know around here - sometimes very calm, sometimes super rough...

I got B-62s triple ring Christmas tree put together yesterday. The old springs looked fine, but since I had the kit I replaced them I installed the new ones. It wasn't very difficult, just drilling out the old rivets without a drill press was a pain in the ass, but not impossible, so it's done. Now all's that is needed is install the bearing in the bottom and the needle bearings, of course....

ScootNewb (Chris) took his with him and is doing the same.

Oh, and here is something interesting. The big gear on the three speed can be installed in either direction. The space is the same thickness on both sides. Also, it likes a specific rotation between the six options. It lived that way for 58 years and wore together in a certain way, so that's how I put it back.

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The cush drive, with the new kit, all cleaned up and ready to go back together.

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Squishing in springs, and centering them

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Hammering flat the rivets

Ossessionato
79 P200E, 62 Allstate, 2008 Stella
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 2067
Location: Florence, OR
Mon Dec 21, 2020 3:37 pm quote
Well, made a little progress today. I installed the rear shock rubber and did some flowing the carb box to the case. Which brings me to a couple of questions:

1) I want to open the inlet up a bit like an O-tune on a P200. I don't know how much I should do though. I've got some pictures of the side I think I need to grind. Is this correct? and also, how many mm's should I cut it back to?

2) I have no idea the squish for this Pinasco 2-port, 177 kit is. Does anybody know this?

The power with just the 177 kit was plenty so we'd probably be fine just flowing the carb box to the inlet, but while we're here...might as well open up the inlet a bit. How much is the question, and which side to dremel? The furthest away from the cylinder? My finger in the pic below is the side "I think" I should be grinding, but not sure...

Also, cut a chunk out of a sheet of steel to make installing the crank bearings possible. And there were a couple of wear marks on the oil channel inside the clutch cover so I sanded it down a bit.

Chris is coming over tomorrow and maybe we'll get to start putting in seals and bearings, provided we get the grinding finished.

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Making scribe lines in the case, and the carb box.

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Here is a view on the bottom of the carb box and what needs to be removed

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Carb box and inlet flowed

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I'm assuming I need to open up this side of the inlet - but how far?

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This is a view of the inlet from the top.

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Wear marks from clutch on the clutch cover....

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That's better...

Jet Eye Master
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 2692
Location: London UK
Mon Dec 21, 2020 11:02 pm quote
Nice rotary pad for an old engine. Someone has already had a go at cutting that, so don't feel too guilty.
Looking for about 190 degrees on what you are building. Opens 125 degrees before and closes 65 degrees after TDC.
Loose fit the crank with a degree wheel. Set TDC as zero. Rest is easy.
bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x 2), 74 Primavera (x 2), 06 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 5743
Location: So Cal
Tue Dec 22, 2020 7:18 am quote


Scott, in case you or others following along donít already know, an old bearing comes in handy here. Grind the inner and outer diameters so it slips on and off the crank and in and out of the case easily. Viola... homemade dummy bearing. Easy and helpful for measuring openings.
Ossessionato
79 P200E, 62 Allstate, 2008 Stella
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 2067
Location: Florence, OR
Tue Dec 22, 2020 8:32 am quote
Thank you Jack - just the info I was looking for. And it was me that already started on the inlet. The inlet is fairly square on these cases so I figured rounding it out may help, since I had to remove material for the carb box and case connection.

SCG - Excellent tip - thank you! I'll get on grinding one of the old bearings down!

Today is going to be an exciting day!
Ossessionato
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 2179
Location: california
Tue Dec 22, 2020 1:51 pm quote
qas -
You can open up the inlet in both directions.
There are of course some calculations you can do - but frankly - more open is more open - so if you aren't getting really aggressive - then I wouldn't fret doing the calcs.

Below - from my experience.

At the Inlet In side - thats where you have your finger pointing - a safe/conservative opening would be to pull it back to about the middle of the carb stud. Shape it with a round tip bullet point. Check for air leak through your carb stud hole after - and if you spring one - fill bottom with JB weld. Carb stud does not go to bottom of this hole so there is room for fixes if you break through when porting the inlet.
That said - you likely wont.

On the Inlet Out side - the one that is nearer the cylinder - that can come forward a bit too. Since there is a case stud in your way - that is more a shaping than a large elongation - but you can bring the tip of it about 1/4" forward safely. That one can have a bit more rectangular shape to it - with radiuses corners of course.

As for the sides - they are more sensitive - you need to have your crank in to see how wide you COULD go. Safe quick play is to leave them alone and only elongate the inlet. Freakmoped has a video with minimum overlap of inlet and crank - but I don't recall. (1.5mm?)

One question I have. Saw the pic below. Looks like the brass bearing race in your cases is inset about .5mm. Is it like this 360į or just on one side?

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Banned
Joined: 22 Dec 2020
Posts: 2

Tue Dec 22, 2020 2:29 pm quote
.
What a hunk of garbage. I'll give any one of you here $$100 for any of running vespa garbage you think you are so cool for owning, that's really all it's worth and all of you know it.
Ossessionato
Joined: 26 Oct 2015
Posts: 2947

Tue Dec 22, 2020 4:53 pm quote
Re: .
Soprano wrote:
What a hunk of garbage. I'll give any one of you here $$100 for any of running vespa garbage you think you are so cool for owning, that's really all it's worth and all of you know it.
Did you sneak over from the Lambretta forum so that you could give us a reality check?
Ossessionato
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 2179
Location: california
Tue Dec 22, 2020 5:25 pm quote
Some perfectly good village is missing their idiot.
Ossessionato
79 P200E, 62 Allstate, 2008 Stella
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 2067
Location: Florence, OR
Tue Dec 22, 2020 9:57 pm quote
What a great day in the garage. ScootNewb (Chris) ran the dremel like a boss!

We didn't port the inlets as much as Jack suggested because I was basically chicken to port under and next to the bolts in the case. So we took off enough to be close to the pin on the inlet, and the close side, close to the pin.

We used the ole "file the bearing down to temporarily put the crank in" trick (thanks again SCG) and that worked great, with the degree wheel to see what degree open and closed was and where we ground to And, of course, I forgot to write it down. I'll get it though before buttoning up the cases.

So we ground inlets, put together the 4 speed Cush Drive, flowed the carb box and the inlet for Rocket, and installed the fly side seals in both. We almost got the silly four piece shifter bearing installed but needed to go for a ride and get tacos. It is Taco Tuesday after all...
charlieman22 wrote:
One question I have. Saw the pic below. Looks like the brass bearing race in your cases is inset about .5mm. Is it like this 360į or just on one side?
Both cases have this brass inset a hare below the lip and the brass inlet is beveled slightly, all the way around.

And CM, thanks for the detailed description. I guess we could've beveled the curve a bit around the pins, but like I said earlier, I was just too chicken to get close to the studs. And lets face it - the scooter had plenty of power before even the new crank and cleaning up the inlet, so I'm pretty certain it'll be enough.

And thank you Jack for the explanation with the degree wheel. It worked like a charm and we both got to learn just exactly what is happening and when by spinning the crank around with the degree wheel on it. That was a cool thing in it's own right.

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Chris rebuilding his Cush drive

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The sacrificial bearing getting ready to be ground down

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So THATS how the engine works! :)

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I'm only grinding it back to that mark, which lines up with the stud above...

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Chris grinding like a boss

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A view through the carb box

Ossessionato
2015 GTS300, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 4598
Location: San Diego, CA
Wed Dec 23, 2020 1:19 pm quote
FYI if you are porting and hit the stud hole, you can just patch it with some JB weld, it is very common to end up happening on P200 porting. The only caveat is once you see the hole appearing you should stop so you have enough to work with. You don't want to try to fill a hole and then knock out the JB putting in a stud.
Molto Verboso
2007 Stella 225
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 1532
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Wed Dec 23, 2020 2:54 pm quote
sdjohn wrote:
FYI if you are porting and hit the stud hole, you can just patch it with some JB weld, it is very common to end up happening on P200 porting. The only caveat is once you see the hole appearing you should stop so you have enough to work with. You don't want to try to fill a hole and then knock out the JB putting in a stud.
Did I read that some people put Yamabond on a stud when it breaks through to basically seal the threads?
Ossessionato
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 2179
Location: california
Wed Dec 23, 2020 3:18 pm quote
I've done both.
I liked the JB - tho the hondabond worked well and has lasted as well.
I cleaned the hole and blew it dry.
Put in some JB to seal bottom.
Then put grease on the stud and put it back in to make sure it would go.
Used the higher temp slow cure JB.
Backed the stud out to let it fully cure after it started to set.
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2871
Location: Staten Island, NY
Wed Dec 23, 2020 3:31 pm quote
charlieman22 wrote:
I've done both.
I liked the JB - tho the hondabond worked well and has lasted as well.
I cleaned the hole and blew it dry.
Put in some JB to seal bottom.
Then put grease on the stud and put it back in to make sure it would go.
Used the higher temp slow cure JB.
Backed the stud out to let it fully cure after it started to set.
So you remove the stud before grinding the inlet pad? If so, good to know.. didn't realize that and glad I haven't started grinding my p200 rotary pad yet.
Ossessionato
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: 26 Jan 2019
Posts: 2179
Location: california
Wed Dec 23, 2020 3:48 pm quote
Actually - I like to grind with the stud in - the black of the stud will show through when you hit on the side which is harder to see when you hit the bottom of the holes.

Grind right into them - as per Jack.
I've found the studs are designed not to bottom out in to the holes tho - so hen you hit the bottom of the hole - you will not hit the stud.
That extra volume is what you will fill with the JB.
Once you break into the hole - if you stop - you will be left with a small volume for JB.
You can also slightly shorten your stud if absolutely required I suppose - but never had to personally.
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 2871
Location: Staten Island, NY
Wed Dec 23, 2020 3:55 pm quote
Never crossed my mind the stud hole would be deep enough to encounter there. But you've got me wondering how much it matters to keep the same profile/width on the rotary opening when you grind it back deeper? I'm thinking what about avoiding grinding the new opening so the profile avoids the stud area so that instead of a rounded end on the inlet its more jelly bean shaped curved around that stud? ha!
Jet Eye Master
PX221 Malossi, O tuned PX200 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 2692
Location: London UK
Wed Dec 23, 2020 4:04 pm quote
Grind through the stud. Can't get the inlet big enough if you don't. Grind through the bottom of the stud and profile to the aluminum. They rarely leak through the thread. And if they do, loctite 603 will seal it forever....... if needed.
After a few reed conversions, you'll realise a lot more can come out and not affect the stud.

qa, what timing you end up with?
Molto Verboso
Vespa
Joined: 19 Jun 2007
Posts: 1280
Location: California
Wed Dec 23, 2020 4:14 pm quote
If you take your time and gently let a sanding drum work it's way to the rear of the pad you might miss the stud hole altogether, the stud is close to the case edge, notso much in the web path, make some sharpie marks at stud hole location before you let the drum beat. I like to leave the sides alone just get more length.
Ossessionato
79 P200E, 62 Allstate, 2008 Stella
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 2067
Location: Florence, OR
Mon Dec 28, 2020 9:30 pm quote
Thanks for all the info and encouragement guys. We appreciate it greatly!
Jack221 wrote:
qa, what timing you end up with?
I don't know - I'll measure and let you know.

We did stop grinding sooner than most of you guys though

And then Christmas comes along and life gets in the way, until today for an hour or so! I managed to get the fly side cases ready to go, which means:

Kickstart seal, kickstart quadrant, and bumpers
4 piece shifter bearing - which was a royal pain in the ass
Main flyside seal - loctite'd it in.

Also:

Ground down B62's clutch cover to receive a bigger seven spring clutch.
Ground down the tab in both cases that can interfere with the clutch.

Speaking of clutches:

We're going two different ways for the clutches. I'm going the Stella 22tooth clutch and a DRT 23tooth gear. That way I can play with which I like better, and also use the 22tooth on Olive, my current Stella.

Chris is going with the Pinasco Power clutch - banded - 22 tooth

I've got to replace the clutch in B62 because it came with a clutch that has a smaller diameter brass bushing than standard. That bushing is unobtainium now, so might as well join the present with a new clutch basket. Chris is concerned his old clutch is going to explode with the gobs of power he's going to have at his disposal so he's upgrading now vs later. I cannot wait to check them both out and see how they install.

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The tab in the clutch area on the case. Notice the wear on it. The old clutch did this. Time to remove the obstacle...

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There, that's better. This was done on both cases.

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Took the channel off the sidewall of the clutch cover to make way for the larger 7 spring clutch

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New seal, kickstart quadrant, rubber bumpers, and shifter bearing installed. Did this on both fly side cases

Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: 02 Aug 2015
Posts: 2209
Location: Veria, Greece
Mon Dec 28, 2020 10:38 pm quote
I hope you didnít forget to replace the quadrantís o-ring...
Ossessionato
79 P200E, 62 Allstate, 2008 Stella
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 2067
Location: Florence, OR
Tue Dec 29, 2020 12:14 am quote
SaFiS wrote:
I hope you didnít forget to replace the quadrantís o-ring...
Got them replaced SaFIS! Thanks for the heads up.

Mine leaked a drop or two out of that seal since I've owned it and I've been waiting to replace it!
Ossessionato
79 P200E, 62 Allstate, 2008 Stella
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 2067
Location: Florence, OR
Sun Jan 10, 2021 9:19 pm quote
I just got back from a lovely week at an isolated camping spot along the ocean - dry camping - in our 1997 Winnebago Adventurer. And it was huge storm after storm - totally awesome. Lots of cribbage was played, and even a game or two of Rummikub (new to us).

But back to the real reason you're reading this - the two builds! YES - Chris and I got after it today and made a lot of progress. Everything went like clockwork and no big hiccups. And we got to do a quick, misty ride to get burritos for lunch.

So we managed to install new style engine buffers, crankshafts, cush drives, and drive axles. We ended up with ordering an incorrect tooth kick start gear for the 4 speed, but a minor hiccup since I'm waiting for a clutch. I'll call Diamond Dave tomorrow and get a 13 tooth one on order. Oh, and we put together a Pinasco clutch for Rocket. Sweet setup. Pics of that next time...

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The view from our RV window - notice the humming bird in the bottom left? Hearty little bugger...

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Welcome to the clubhouse - lets get to work!

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I put a 1 over shim in the gear stack of the three speed. Feels good now, and at .06

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The new style buffers. A combination of allthread and hammer put them in nicely

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Buffers installed

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Used a heat gun to warm up the case then installed the axle bearing with just some little taps and it was home...

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Rear seal and clip in place

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This was way cool - Chris liberated this case warmer from his work (shh) and heated the case up

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Then dropped the crankshaft with the bearing into the case super easy - like magic!

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Then we got busy installing the cush drives and the 23 needle bearings - fun for sausage fingers....

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Once the cush drive was in place it was all about tapping and wiggling the gear stack until it hit bottom.

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And voila, it's ready for the other half.

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Time to run down to Los Amigos for a burrito and park out of the mist trying to pass as rain - special parking only for the most privileged scooters - ha!

Molto Verboso
Vespa
Joined: 19 Jun 2007
Posts: 1280
Location: California
Mon Jan 11, 2021 4:19 am quote
qascooter awesome post! Was checking out the bird as you mentioned. Swells look mean. Muffins making me hungry as I drink coffee and listen to my stomach growl. Crankshaft looks sexy. Hot plate is magic. Fun watching you guys from the living room.
Ossessionato
2015 GTS300, 1974 Primavera, 04 Ninja 250
Joined: 04 Apr 2013
Posts: 4598
Location: San Diego, CA
Mon Jan 11, 2021 7:53 am quote
I had a friend (Rover Eric) back in Michigan that would use a hot plate like that - I'd forgotten though. I'm gonna have to find one of those.... Nice work!
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VNB VSC VBC VSX
Joined: 28 May 2008
Posts: 4772
Location: Hustletown, TX
Mon Jan 11, 2021 9:03 am quote
Good stuff.

Man Rover Eric was a wealth of knowledge. Too bad he doesn't hang about any more.
Ossessionato
79 P200E, 62 Allstate, 2008 Stella
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 2067
Location: Florence, OR
Mon Jan 11, 2021 10:32 am quote
Thanks guys! Yesterday was a good day indeed.

The hotplate trick - we got that one from Robot and SteveO's video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YV982aFlywA

It sure made things go together like magic.
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