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@mandarinia avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
LX150
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Molto Verboso
@mandarinia avatar
LX150
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UTC quote
Since I'm about to get a corbin seat, I'm losing the LX150's utility hook / seat bag hook / grocery hook / helmet hook / whatever you want to call that thingy. I use that thing all the time for hauling groceries, gym bag, work bag, etc. So, finding a replacement was pretty important.

I discovered that the GTS hook fits nicely on the LX150 with just a few hardware store parts, and about $2 in Sculpy molding clay. I used the sculpy to give the flat base of the GTS zip cat hook (technically...that's what it's called) a curve so that it can sit well on the curved surface of the LX150 right under the VIN plate. There was plenty of room behind the plastic to add a metal base plate for sturdiness--I ended up re-tasking a metal light switch cover for the job. That plastic is easy to drill...like buttah. Anyways, I'm pretty psyched it fit so nicely.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@zagato avatar
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Vespa GTV 250ie
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UTC quote
Very nice work. I don't need to mod for my scoot but perhaps you can add photos of the work in progress for others how may want to ad the hook to their LX or ET.

Good work!!!
@benito avatar
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Moderator
2010 Dragon Red GTS 300 Super, 2018 Grigio Titanio Piaggio Liberty S 150
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@benito avatar
2010 Dragon Red GTS 300 Super, 2018 Grigio Titanio Piaggio Liberty S 150
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UTC quote
Nice custom mod.
OP
@mandarinia avatar
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Molto Verboso
LX150
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Molto Verboso
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LX150
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UTC quote
Zagato wrote:
Very nice work. I don't need to mod for my scoot but perhaps you can add photos of the work in progress for others how may want to ad the hook to their LX or ET.

Good work!!!
It was kind of a "dammit-just-git-er-done" sort of impulse that finally drove me to it, so the build was actually done in an impatient flurry of activity one night, with whatever I happened to have around the house when the actual zip cat hook actually arrived. No photo-documentation done till it was all buttoned up.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

The zip cat hook is part number 575819 in the parts catalog. It costs around $25 or something like that. The only additional parts you need are the sculpy clay, a metal light switch cover, a few fender washers to distribute the pressure on the back plate and the screws to attach the hook.

In terms of tools, you need a philips head #3 and a philips head #2 to get the apron off. You need a toaster oven to heat-set the sculpy clay once it's in the shape you need it to be. And you need a 3/8" drill bit, a sharpie, a scribe and a center punch to mark accurate drill points. And to work with the sculpy clay, I used some random thin flexible sheet of plastic (it just happened to be a polyethalene folder that I tasked for the job) to facilitate the shaping of it and its removal off of the hook once it's shaped.

Be sure you ask for the screws that fit in the back of it, unless you happen to have the right sized wood screw. There's not alot of depth to work with, so I took some self-tapping screws and trimmed down the tips so that it wouldn't stick out the front with my dremel tool. You can avoid that by just getting the right screw with the hook.

In terms of the process--it's fairly straightforward. There are a few nuances that would take a bit of effort to get into, but for the most part, you shape the clay between the hook and the leg shield liner till it fits the way you want to. Once it's shaped the right way, you take a trip to the toaster oven for about 30 minutes. Then you drill a few holes in the light switch cover to match the back of the hook (I had to drill an extra hole in the cover to get it to fit around a rivet, but that's just because of the particular size cover I had) and bend to fit on behind the plastic. add the fender washers and the screws...reassemble...yer done.
@alice avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
ET4
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
I do wish my ET had a hook there, too, instead of just on the seat. Can't have too many hooks!

Are you saying you used sculpy clay from the art store? I wonder how that is going to hold up long term or if it will somehow bleed out and affect your finish over time. Also, is it water tight? Our toy hauler had some sort of grey, clay-like gasket material around all the windows and other fittings and vents ... kind of like a very firm plumbers putty. I don't know what it is called, but you can probably buy it at a trailer supply. I think it would work really well for that application.
OP
@mandarinia avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
LX150
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Molto Verboso
@mandarinia avatar
LX150
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UTC quote
Alice wrote:
I do wish my ET had a hook there, too, instead of just on the seat. Can't have too many hooks!

Are you saying you used sculpy clay from the art store? I wonder how that is going to hold up long term or if it will somehow bleed out and affect your finish over time. Also, is it water tight? Our toy hauler had some sort of grey, clay-like gasket material around all the windows and other fittings and vents ... kind of like a very firm plumbers putty. I don't know what it is called, but you can probably buy it at a trailer supply. I think it would work really well for that application.
Sculpey (I misspelt it) clay is an interesting little modeling clay. It forms easily with hand pressure, sculpts readily with sculpting tools. But it permanently hardens when you bake it, so there's no further deformation or bleeding possible. It's farily rigid after you bake it, and can actually be sanded if you want--a much better option than anything that stays soft/pliable, and much faster to work with than attempting a cast molding.

Structurally, in this application, it's a suitable material for what it has to do, bcs it's only handling compressive forces, and not much of it at that, given that the hook itself is what the screws are anchored to. The sculpey's only purpose is to take up the extra space between the flat back of the hook, and the curved front of the vespa's leg shield liner to keep the hook from swinging left/right. The real structural components are the two lugs formed on the back of the hook's base, the screws, the fender washers, and the light switch cover, which are all metal except for the hook itself (some sort of molded nylon I beleive). You're most likely to strip the threads out of the plastic lugs than any other forms of failure. If you have the right screws, and don't over-torque them, you'll actually have to yank pretty hard to do that.

The sculpy-to-legshield assembly isn't intrinsically watertight per se. But I don't believe it has to be either, mostly bcs of the geometry. Moisture intrusion there would be fairly minimal. If I get the hankering, I suppose I could bed the assembly with a little silicone, but I'm not particularly concerned.
@alice avatar
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Molto Verboso
ET4
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Thanks ... just checking it out because it looks like a handy little modification. You didn't shape the sculpy and then bake it before putting it on, did you? You used it "as is", correct? I have actually used that clay before ....
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@mandarinia avatar
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Molto Verboso
LX150
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Molto Verboso
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LX150
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UTC quote
Alice wrote:
Thanks ... just checking it out because it looks like a handy little modification. You didn't shape the sculpy and then bake it before putting it on, did you?
That was the nuance that I didn't get into in the first write-up. Pictures would've helped. It was a multi-step process, actually. You form the sculpey onto the hook while it's soft to shape it, and then squeeze it between the hook and the leg shield to get it to take the right shape between the legshield and hook.

But I don't leave it on the scoot that way.

After you're done forming the curve of the leg shield into the little wedge of sculpey, you take the hook/sculpey off the scoot and lay the hook down at your desk. Cut away any excess sculpey that squeezed out, so that the sculpey that remains follows the contour of the hook base nicely. If you have sculpting tools, you can do a pretty clean job, but a knife edge is really all you need to clean the edges up a little.

Then remove the sculpey from the hook and put it on an oven proof surface and bake that sucker by itself for about twenty to thirty minutes. Then re-assemble once it's stiff.

Using the small sheets of plastic that I mentioned in my first post aids in the ease of working with the sculpey so that it doesn't stick to the scooter or the hook base. I recommend cutting the plastic sheet to the shape of the hook base and cut out holes in the sheet for the lugs to pass through. The plastic that you use should be flexible, but not stretchable. I'd recommend the transparency sheets that teachers used to write on when they used their projectors, but nowadays, I wonder if they even make them. In my case, I had some polyethelyne page protectors that were almost stiff enough--passable. I would've liked something just a bit thicker. This gives you a way to slip something flat like a knife blade between the hook base and the sculpey to life the sculpy off of the hook base in one piece very easily. It also allows you to press the sculpey against the scooter's leg shield without having it stick firmly to the legshield. The plastic sheet keeps the sculpey and the legshield separate.

Bake for stiffness, et voila.
@paige avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
LX150, MP3, Buddy
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
It.s Bee-yoo-ti-ful.

Husband, get over here and look at this!
⬆️    About 2 years elapsed    ⬇️
@david_masse avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
2016 Vespa GTS 300 i.e. ABS sold, 2010 Vespa GTS 300 ie Super (sold) & 2003 Honda Shadow VT750 ACE (sold) & 2006 Vespa LX150 (sold)
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UTC quote
As soon as I found this thread I knew that I needed a GT bag hook on my LX150.

Thanks to Mandarinia's excellent post, I was able to mount the GT bag hook on my scooter.

I posted a description of the steps I took on my blog as well as some pictures taken during the install so I could add to the knowledge on this particular topic.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

EDIT: I finally got the scoot all reassembled and tested, and I'm adding a photo of the GT bag hook with my laptop case on it.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
⬆️    About 3 months elapsed    ⬇️
@jimc avatar
UTC

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The Hornet (GT200, aka Love Bug) and 'Dimples' - a GTS 300
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UTC quote
Just doing this mod myself. I squeezed the clay quite thin (used less than a quarter of a bar in the end) - and so wasn't too happy about it going in the oven with no shaping support.

I can report that the curry-hook happily withstands 130C (275F), so no need for a plastic film divider between the hook and the clay whilst modelling. Let it stick!
⬆️    About 1 year elapsed    ⬇️
@mike_bike_kite avatar
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GTS250 - GT200 - XJR1300
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UTC quote
Re: Installing the GTS bag hook on an LX150
mandarinia wrote:
the GTS zip cat hook (technically...that's what it's called)
I'm so glad I read this, my cat has never been happy travelling in the pet compartment so I look forward to trying him out on the hook tomorrow
@paulm avatar
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UTC quote
Slightly off topic
Anyone have any idea how much weight can be carried on the hook?

Is it all plastic or some metal coated plastic?

I always have nightmares about it snapping and sending my laptop flying across the road!
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UTC quote
It's all plastic - but can take a lot of weight. Exactly how much I don't know, but I've had a couple of six-packs hanging off it with no problem.
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UTC quote
That's roughly about 5Kg.

Just weighed the laptop bag, about 3Kg.

So no worries then should be OK.
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UTC quote
A vintage style hook fits nicely on the LX FWIW.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@david_masse avatar
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2016 Vespa GTS 300 i.e. ABS sold, 2010 Vespa GTS 300 ie Super (sold) & 2003 Honda Shadow VT750 ACE (sold) & 2006 Vespa LX150 (sold)
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UTC quote
paulm wrote:
That's roughly about 5Kg.

Just weighed the laptop bag, about 3Kg.

So no worries then should be OK.
I carried my laptop all last season. I hit potholes, went over many, many railroad crossings. No laptop ever broke loose.
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@mandarinia avatar
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Molto Verboso
LX150
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UTC quote
Re: Slightly off topic
paulm wrote:
Anyone have any idea how much weight can be carried on the hook?

Is it all plastic or some metal coated plastic?

I always have nightmares about it snapping and sending my laptop flying across the road!
Ah! I had no idea anyone was rocking the zip cat hook mod. Cool!

Fwiw, I've been routinely carrying my computer bag on the hook fully unsupported underneath (it's tall enough that there's space under it). The bag weighs 20 lbs / 9kg fully packed. I am *not* gentle about flying over speedbumps et al. You're good imo. I'd be more worried about picking the right screw for the task than the integrity of the molded nylon, imo. It won't be the hook that fails.

WRT the vintage hook: imo, way...too...short. Half the height compared to the zip cat hook location. Like literally, if I mounted the zip cat hook to the bottom of the glove compartment, that's about where the vintage hook lines up to. That is just...not an ideal height for a hook. Coming home from the grocery store, I'm sometimes rocking six or so shopping bags. They'd be all over the road at the first traffic light if I hooked them up to that.

I had the option of figuring out how to mount the zip cat hook in the same underseat location, & decided it was not ideal. I also had the option of mounting the vintage hook in the same location as the zip cat hook, but to me that thing's just asking to bash my knee on it if I did it there, bcs it doesn't fold away. And I'm not thrilled with the narrowness of its base, nor the direction of forces/torque. I thought it through, & on just about every measure the zip cat hook won out...imo.
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UTC quote
Many thanks for the feedback! Gives me peace of mind, some times I have two laptops in there. (Macbook air and Sony Vaio, not the heaviest but still)

As we all know it is much more practical and fun traveling around on a Vespa than using the Cages.
@david_masse avatar
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UTC quote
Mandarinia's experience nails it.

For what it's worth, my cat hook is in the same location as his since I followed his recommendations and my laptop bag is also unsupported.

In addition to the weight of the bag and the 17" Dell with the heavy duty oversize battery, there's the external power supply, the usual assortment of tools and cables, an umbrella, and, on any given day, reading material, newspaper, a magazine and my lunch.

Just follow Mandarinia's instructions or check out my install on my blog and you'll be fine.
@david_masse avatar
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2016 Vespa GTS 300 i.e. ABS sold, 2010 Vespa GTS 300 ie Super (sold) & 2003 Honda Shadow VT750 ACE (sold) & 2006 Vespa LX150 (sold)
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UTC quote
Re: Installing the GTS bag hook on an LX150
mike_bike_kite wrote:
mandarinia wrote:
the GTS zip cat hook (technically...that's what it's called)
I'm so glad I read this, my cat has never been happy travelling in the pet compartment so I look forward to trying him out on the hook tomorrow
ROFL emoticon ROFL emoticon ROFL emoticon ROFL emoticon ROFL emoticon ROFL emoticon
⬆️    About 9 years elapsed    ⬇️
UTC

Lurker
Primavera 50 iGET (2020)
Joined: UTC
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Location: Slovenia
 
Lurker
Primavera 50 iGET (2020)
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Location: Slovenia
UTC quote
Installing front luggage hook on Vespa Primavera 2020
I have recently bought a 2020 Vespa Primavera 50 and I find the absence of front luggage hook a serious design flaw. Yes, there is a retractable hook located under the seat, but it is not useful for securing laptop bags or any other non-deformable bags. This is how it looked when I tried to secure the laptop bag on the existing hook (note that the bag covers the entire floor of the scooter, so my feet were hanging off while riding):
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

As I was not very fond of drilling holes into a new Vespa, I initially solved the issue with tying an nylon rope around the rubber knob. This rope went under the laptop bag handle and was then secured around the ignition key. The leg space issue was successfully resolved. This is how it looked:
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

The solution worked pretty well, but did not provide sufficient lateral stability for the bag. Therefore (after seeing this thread on the Forum) I came up with another solution, which requires no additional holes in the body. The only thing you "damage" in the process is a rubber knob, which can be easily replaced (Piaggio part 581412, costs around 3 EUR.)

First I ordered a luggage hook (helmet hook, cat zip hook etc.), originally called GANCIO PORTAPORSA COMPLETO, Piaggio part number 575819. It is made of black plastic and has a round design (if you prefer more squared desing, part No. 265093 is also an option).
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

The hook comes with two "buttons" on the rear side, but Vespa Primavera only has one hole in the body, so I had to remove one of them. I decided to remove the lower one (the one further away from the hinge) and use the top one for securing the hook in place. A hole had to be drilled through the upper button as well, allowing the screw to fit through. Keeping the upper button aligns the hook symmetrically to the body of the scooter and does not interfere with the ignition key. Finally, I have removed the rubber knob out from Vespa's body (the knob has no function on Primavera 50)
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

The rear plate of the hook is perfectly flat, while the Primavera' s body is curved. Other users from this thread have resolved this with molding clay. I did not have such thing at hand, so I simply took a piece of old leather belt (which has a conical shape) and taped it to the plate with a double-sided tape (use water resistant tape!). This created a wedge, which has leveled the plate of the hook against the Vespa's body. Initial fitting seemed a success.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Next, I have drilled a hole into the rubber knob. I started with a small drill, and the gradually enlarged the hole to the size where the "button" of the hook fitted into the rubber. The key here is to drill the whole just deep and wide enough to tightly fit the "button". Do not drill it too deep or even through the knob, otherwise the screw (which is installed later) will have nothing to grip on.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

After that, the double sided tape was applied over the whole back of the hook's plate. The excess tape was trimmed and the white sides of the tape were painted with the black marker (for esthetical purposes only).
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

A rubber knob was attached back to the hook and the whole set was then put onto the Vespa's body. The knob was inserted into its original hole, whereas the back of the hook's plate was now glued to Vespa's body with a double-sided tape. Finally, a screw was inserted, passing through the hook's plate hole and ending in the rubber knob. This is how the final result looks like:
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

And this is how the laptop bag now sits on the Vespa:
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Finally, there are some remarks (positive and negative) I would like to share with anyone thinking about installing the hook based on my instructions:
* the good thing about this process is, that it is completely reversible. If you do not like the solution, you simply remove the screw, rip off the hook and clean the residue of the tape. If you would like to buy a new rubber knob (this one now has a drilled hole), look for Piaggio part 581412, which costs around 3 EUR.
* the whole installation process took me less than 1 hour.
* I decided to go with this simple solution, because my laptop bag has long handles. The bag itself actually sits on Vespa's floor. In my particular case, the hook does not bear any substantial weight. I have not tested it for heavier loads yet.
* the future project is to find a more suitable interface between the hook and the body (perhaps rubber, 3D-Print, silicone...),leveling the difference between flat hook and rounded Vespa's body.
* a metal or chromed hook would look better on my Primavera. Piaggio does not make them, but they can be found online pretty cheap.
@berto avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
2006 LX150 (carbed) | 2007 GT200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1915
Location: Toronto
 
Molto Verboso
@berto avatar
2006 LX150 (carbed) | 2007 GT200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1915
Location: Toronto
UTC quote
Nice work... thanks for sharing!

What's the rubber plug for in the first place? Some kind of access hole?

Welcome to Modern Vespa!
UTC

Lurker
Primavera 50 iGET (2020)
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Primavera 50 iGET (2020)
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UTC quote
On Primavera 150 this button serves as a saddle opening button (Piaggio part No. 582988). You can actually press it and unlock the under-seat compartment.

The Primavera 50, on the other hand, does not have such saddle opening mechanism. Saddle unlocks through separate lock, located on the left side of the seat (using ignition key).

Since both Primavera 50 and Primavera 150 use the same knee guard panel (part No. 1B003620), the 50 version was given this plug as a replacement for saddle opening button. The plug (Piaggio part No. 581412) is just a simple rubber plug covering the hole initially designed for seat lock button. On Primavera 50, this button is just a dummy (has no function and cannot be pressed).

And thanks for welcoming me. 8)
@znomit avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
LX190 Friday afternoon special, Primavera, some pushbikes
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
@znomit avatar
LX190 Friday afternoon special, Primavera, some pushbikes
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Location: Hermit Kingdom
UTC quote
I think the Vietnamese 150s we get here have the latch on the seat too.
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