I just wanted to start by saying that this is the way I changed my variator weights. For your own peace of mind you should torque all nuts to the specified values as listed in the manual.
Now I did not do this as I do not have a torque wrench. For those of you who do not have a torque wrench I will describe how I did my nuts and bolts up with my impact wrench.
First start by putting the bike on the centre stand and remove the airbox cover. It is held on by nine screws.
Next you need to undo the four screws that hold the plastic transmission cover on.
Next you need to remove the axel cover cap with a flat blade screwdriver. You lift it from the bottom and slowly work it out.
Activate the handbrake. Count the number of threads protruding from the nut and put a mark on the nut and thread. This is so when it is put back together you line up the marks and the number of threads.
Next use an impact wrench and a 21 mm socket and take the shaft nut off. When the nut is off there will be some washers behind it. Make a note in what order they come off. This is important as the wrong washer against the bearing may damage it.
Next with an 8 mm socket undo all the bolts on the outside of the transmission case. All the outside bolts are the same so it does not matter if you mix them up. After you have done that you will need a 10 mm socket to undo the remaining 4 bolts.
Two of the bolts are recessed and two are on the rear.
Wriggle the transmission case off to reveal the variator. Same deal for the variator. I counted the threads after the nut and marked the nut and shaft so that I could later line these up with the impact wrench. Hold the variator and remove the nut.
When you have the nut off pull the first half of the variator off. You will see a spacer in there. Do not forget to put it back. when you put it all back together.
Next put the nut back on the drive shaft to stop the clutch from falling out when you move the belt out of the way to remove the other half of the variator.
Reach in and put your fingers around the variator (to stop it coming apart before it is off the shaft) and pull it off the shaft. The cylindrical bush will come off with it too. Turn it over and remove the roller plate to reveal the weights.
Now you just put your new weights in. Put the roller plate back on with the slide blocks. (the orange things)
Put the variator and bush back on the shaft. This is a splined shaft so make sure you seat it on there correctly. Wiggle it back a bit.
Next put the spacer and belt back on and fit the other half of the variator. This also sits on the splined part of the shaft
Now squeeze the belt together and work it towards the variator. At the same time work the outer half of the variator in towards the splined shaft. The idea behind this is so that we do not pinch the belt between the two halves of the variator.
I did the nut up as far as I could with a breaker bar and the 24 mm socket. All the time I kept moving the belt back so as not to pinch it between the variator halves. Once it was as tight as I could get it I tightened the nut with my impact wrench.
Next you put the transmission case back on. I put the bigger 10 mm bolts on first and then the outer 8 mm bolts. Do up finger tight for starters and then tighten up. It is important to check these after a few rides to make sure they do not come loose.
Next I put the nut back on the the rear of the bike using the same technique as the the nut that holds the variator on. That is, as tight as I could with the breaker bar and then with with my impact wrench.
Next you put the transmission case cover back on, the axle cover back on and last but not least the airbox cover. Don't forget to put the oil drain hose back into its clip. And that is pretty much it.
Last edited by redfone on Sun Oct 19, 2008 4:31 am; edited 15 times in total