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Hi Everyone, especially those with experience with the
following problem I have.

Here it is. Bike wont start. No spark, no reading on multimeter from spark cable.

Jimmy came by with a working CDI. We hooked it up, still no readings or spark.
We then tried the same CDI on his bike and it did work.

I am not sure about the stator. I tried to read it a few times and got some spikes in the multimeter. I am going to check again.

This sucks.

Any EXPERT advice?
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while i'm no EXPERT....

check out the haynes manual. in the ignition section there is a diagnosis proceedure for the stator ign. coil and pick up.

basically, you disconnect the red, green and white wires and test the ohm values between them. really simple.

my guess is that your pickup is bad or you've got frayed wires that are grounding on the stator plate or engine case.

btw, you have pulled the green kill wire to eliminate the kill and key switches from being faulty and checked all of your grounds, right?

best,
-greasy
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UTC quote
greasy125 wrote:
while i'm no EXPERT....

check out the haynes manual. in the ignition section there is a diagnosis proceedure for the stator ign. coil and pick up.

basically, you disconnect the red, green and white wires and test the ohm values between them. really simple.

my guess is that your pickup is bad or you've got frayed wires that are grounding on the stator plate or engine case.

btw, you have pulled the green kill wire to eliminate the kill and key switches from being faulty and checked all of your grounds, right?

best,
-greasy
Yes I pulled the green wire. Still nothing.
I looked at the haynes manual, but i had a hard tim understanding the procedure there. Can you, or anyone explain it step by step?
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UTC quote
Set your multimeter to the ohms (Ω) setting and check the resistance (touch one lead to each wire) between the wires coming from the stator which plug into your coil/cdi.

I would uncover and disconnect the two yellows in the junction box back there first to make sure it's all isolated and you're not getting any weird readings from the other circuits on the stator. Also unplug everything from the coil itself to test, don't just check by sticking the lead next to the plugged in connectors.

Some multimeters have a range setting, so make sure you are in the correct range first or if the first numbers you get don't look right.

Check resistance between green (not kill switch wire, the other one) and white wires, should be 500 +/- 20 ohms.

Check resistance between white and red wires, should be 110 +/- 5 ohms.

Reading of 0 = short circuit, reading of infinity = broken windings.

...according to Mr. Haynes. Let me know if that doesn't make sense.
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Hi Hiram, Thanks.

Ok.. so I put the leads on the red/white and the grn/white like you said.
I do not know if I did it right, but the readings are this :

red/white 87.9
grn/wht .458

this was done in the resistance mode. The range is automatically set
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Well, tomorrow (Tuesday) afternoon I am going to Bar Italia with my Stator,
the CDI and hopes that I can sort this annoying ignition problem out.

Ill fill you guys in.
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checkflag wrote:
Hi Hiram, Thanks.

Ok.. so I put the leads on the red/white and the grn/white like you said.
I do not know if I did it right, but the readings are this :

red/white 87.9
grn/wht .458

this was done in the resistance mode. The range is automatically set
your readings are signifigantly below spec.
i'd suspect corroded or damaged wires leading to your ign. coil and/or pickup. more than likely a standard rewire job will set you straight.

btw, how's the magnetisim on your flywheel?

best,
-greasy
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Hi Greasy..

flywheel magentism seems strong, but I don't know that to compare it to.
It certainly grabs at metal.

The reading between the red and white wire was fine (106.0)
but the GRN/WHT reading should be 500.0 and it was 000.5

I know the CDI is out, because I tried to start jimmy's P with it, to no avail.
I'm confident the part of my stator with the green wire lead is bad. I will
know more on tuesday afternoon.
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checkflag wrote:
Hi Greasy..

flywheel magentism seems strong, but I don't know that to compare it to.
It certainly grabs at metal.

The reading between the red and white wire was fine (106.0)
but the GRN/WHT reading should be 500.0 and it was 000.5

I know the CDI is out, because I tried to start jimmy's P with it, to no avail.
I'm confident the part of my stator with the green wire lead is bad. I will
know more on tuesday afternoon.
if it can hold a 17mm wrench then you're good to go.

initially you stated that the reading between the red and white was in the 80's... what changed between then and now?

either way, the reading on your green is out, so i'm guessing that you've got grounded wires due to the insulation crumbling away.

get it rewired and you should be solid.

best,
-greasy
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ah yes,master kanobi greasy has spoke he has

rewire sounds good it does

your stator on my bike we could

just kidding i am



(i have to work today k so i wont make it,let me know how it goes)
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What the hell is it about electrical problems.

OK I got the damn thin fixed. All it was was the CDI. I replaced it and it ran fine.

I went out for a test drive and it ran fine. Signals worked, never tested the horn, and the tail/brake light is fine but I noticed the headlight wasn't working. When I get home, I take off the headset and see whats a matter.
I can see nothing wrong. The wires are all connected, the headlight socket is snug where it belongs.

I move the headset to see another angle and POP.. I see a spark and blew the fuse.

The bike is still starting no problem, but now the battery side is fried. the fuse is anyway.
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sounds like you may have a short in the harness.
typically, the harness rubs and the exposed wires short out just below the headset.

glad you sussed out your ignition problem.

welcome to vintage scooters... if it's not one thing, it's another....

best,
-greasy
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dag nab it.

i thought we were in the clear.

i saw some where it said the head light in certain electrical situations will act like a big fuse,when it blows it may be a sign of something going on. a prelude to the cdi. i'm glad thats taken care of.

anyway,could the spark and short be coming from the white we tapped into for that aux horn button,the wire to trigger the relay.

check that,i can try to come by if that will help.

i'm not entirely sold on the button idea kyle.

maybe get the electric back to original and re-think.
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I may ride to the bar today. What are u doing jimmy?
I can make it there in one piece without pesky signals,
Headlight or a horn. It's basically a straight shot down
Sepulveda.
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lucky... today would be an awesome day for a ride...

i've got to do a headgasket on a GT and my PK is in pieces...
*grumble*

see you cats around the pool.

-g
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For sure greasy..

I never made it to the Bar Italia today. I got some fuses locally
and, for the time being, she is running top notch right now.

I may go tomorrow just to get it looked at. (Jimmy ?)

Greasy.. do I ever see you at WSC rides>?
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you will fri nite?
@greasy125 avatar
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checkflag wrote:
Greasy.. do I ever see you at WSC rides>?
yeah, i was at that ride before the lambretta only ride. the one where the guy with the RD200 broke down on speulveda and i was the only one to stop and help... i wound up beating you guys to bar italia

i usually ride my red PK125. loud and fast, can't miss it.

if i can get it back together i'll be riding it tomorrow night, too. otherwise i'll be rolling on my tuna barge series 1 lammy.

see you around the pool.

best,
-greasy
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i love that ole beat up peice of c... whoa easy there

i want to go to fullerton.

are you riding or taking yuour truck aaron?

i guess there is a ride from the westside
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