So, that picture i found of a smallframe stator gave me an idea, so i photoshopped it up for reference.
So, here we see the standard, serviceable points stator. I think a lot of people have the same problem i did, where a coil gets crimped or is shorting...and they go buy a whole new stator... because they don't realize how easy it is to just fix the one coil.
So.. there's everything labeled. The coil that's immediately to the left of the points is ( in every case i've seen so far ) the ignition feeder coil. This guy is connected on the left hand side to ground, and on the right it has a short wire that connects to the points right next to it, using that little flathead screw you can see on the points.
ALSO attached at that same screw-contact point on the points is a yellow wire that runs over to the condenser. IIRC, the condenser is basically a little capacitor that's acting as a filter for the system ( like a one way gate) , allowing electricity to flow ONE way ( to the spark plug ) but not allowing it to flow backward to the points. If you have a bad condenser, often times you can see a blue spark arcing across the points because electricity is able to backtrack from the HT coil all the way back to the points, and you're probably going to end up with corrosion much faster and the points will stop working ( i'm guessing on that ).
The other wire coming out of the condenser is RED, and it is just a long wire that runs up to your junction box, and to the HT coil on the back of the bike ( or your kill switch, if it's depressed )
So, that's a pretty easy process flow to imagine. The Feeder coil generates the initial electricity, the points determine when to create the spark based on your timing, the juice flows on to the condensor which acts as a one-way valve, and then on to your HT coil on the back of your bike, which takes a low voltage, high current signal and converts it to a high voltage, low current signal ( MDchanic, please correct me if i'm wrong ) which goes down your spark plug wire and across the plug - where the high voltage is able to jump the gap to ground and create a spark.
So, what do those other things do?
Well, the two remaining coils on this stator are both lighting coils. If your bike is non battery, you have 3 basic circuits for all of your accessories. One for Headlight and Taillight ( Yellow ) one for Brakelight ( blue ) and one for horn ( green ).
Those 3 circuits need juice generated for them, so they are split up in some way between these two coils. A certain amount of copper windings around each coil is needed to generate the proper amount of juice the circuit needs. Well, how do you get 3 circuits out of 2 coils? Easy - they are layered, and then isolated with some sort of insulating wrap.
I'm pretty sure on the picture above, the upper coil is ONLY the yellow circuit - it's doing all your headlight / taillight. The other coil has both blue and green wires coming out of it... so one of the sets of windings on the coil has a blue lead for the brakelight - then there's an insulating wrap put over it, then another set of windings for the green ( horn ) circuit.
The other end of all these windings HAS to go to ground.
Now, coils get old. They get hurt. The windings get loose or separate or whatever and you end up with a coil that's putting out WAY TOO MUCH ( or not enough ) juice.
For example, on my SS180, currently my YELLOW circuit is running way too hot, and putting out enough voltage that it's consistently burning out my taillight bulb. Why not the headlight bulb? I dunno, the taillight, being only a 5 watt bulb, is the weakest link and it's easy to fry. My headlight is blinding, though.
So, i ordered a replacement lighting coil for it, which contains both YELLOW and BLUE leads coming off of it. Is that correct? I dunno. If it's not i'll just clip the blue lead and only use the yellow. I'll let you know the results.
Last edited by Rover Eric on Fri Aug 07, 2009 5:14 am; edited 2 times in total