Ignition Barrel Replacement **HELP**
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Member
Vespa Px 125
Joined: 19 Apr 2010
Posts: 17
Location: Aberdeen
Wed Apr 20, 2011 12:31 pm quote
Good evening guys/girls,

Does anyone have a correct procedure to replace a ignition barrel in a PX? I have just replaced one that was just spinning in its housing as I could not engage the steering lock and had to stall the scooter in order to stop in. The new one I have just put in is doing the same thing; I had to drill the last one out!

All help/advice appreciated.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
T5s
Joined: 19 Feb 2009
Posts: 17006
Location: The West Of Yorkshire ... Gods Country
Wed Apr 20, 2011 12:37 pm quote
half cylinder
did you make sure there was nowt in the hole ... if they break they usually leave a little bit of metal inside and that stops it fitting right in
Member
Vespa Px 125
Joined: 19 Apr 2010
Posts: 17
Location: Aberdeen
Wed Apr 20, 2011 12:41 pm quote
Yeah I blasted the whole out with compressed air to make sure there was no shavings there, it just does not seem to be inter-connecting with the steering lock block.
MV Saint
Haud yer wheesh't if ye cannae be nice
Joined: 12 Aug 2007
Posts: 3864
Location: Camden, Maine
Wed Apr 20, 2011 12:46 pm quote
Mate, are you talking about the Zadi lock on the neck, if so there is a small allen screw that helps retain the housing.

Cheers
Veni, Vidi, Posti
T5s
Joined: 19 Feb 2009
Posts: 17006
Location: The West Of Yorkshire ... Gods Country
Wed Apr 20, 2011 12:55 pm quote
reign cloud
hahaha thatd help ... what years the scoot
Member
Vespa Px 125
Joined: 19 Apr 2010
Posts: 17
Location: Aberdeen
Wed Apr 20, 2011 1:20 pm quote
The pictures are what I have replaced. Items 10,13 and 15 and obviously the zadi surround.

on-off-lock-surround-vespa.jpg
Surround.

Vespa Steering Lock.jpg
Lock breakdown

Veni, Vidi, Posti
T5s
Joined: 19 Feb 2009
Posts: 17006
Location: The West Of Yorkshire ... Gods Country
Wed Apr 20, 2011 1:56 pm quote
little scrotes
has it been tampered with ... how did it end up buggered

i had one that had been messed with [not saying how buts the best way to nick a scoot ] all the inside of the column was fucked so put a headset switch on and had no steering lock
Member
Vespa Px 125
Joined: 19 Apr 2010
Posts: 17
Location: Aberdeen
Wed Apr 20, 2011 2:05 pm quote
It was already buggered when I bought it from previous owner (all legit though, ha). That might be the way to go for me too, not to concerned with the steering lock anyway. What is a headset switch though, any links or pictures?
Cheers for the help mate.
Member
1985 PX200e arcoblano elec start
Joined: 07 Apr 2010
Posts: 22
Location: Cairns, Australia
Wed Apr 20, 2011 5:42 pm quote
the trick
Moderators, you can edit this if you like for security \

I had this same problem and wrecked a few "sets" of matching locks on my PX only last year, just when you think you got it , its not! know what I mean. The barrel only seems to go into the lock surround only one way in order for it to turn freely and you have to sort this out before pushing the whole lot into the frame , holding the barrel halfway and keeping the sprung lock tab of the barrel from engaging , and remembering the flat srung washer to hold the surround in place it is the first tab at the non key end.the barrel must only be pushed all the way once the on off lock housing is fully seated otherwise the barrel locking pin will pop out before the lip inside and not go thru the hole and lip and then engage the groove in the steering lock cam? make any sense always try to do it with the key in barrel

Cheers Holger

ps when you look in the frame hole you'll see what I mean, I found that cam had to be in the right place and also the ign switch has to be in place, you can move it from the locking side with a big screwdriver
pss I tried it once to test without the surround and all of a sudden click, and there I wrecked another one, to remove, remove switch off back and hit with a screwdriver and hammer against the cam, sringloaded locking pin will break and barrel fly across garage[/img]

barrel lock px.JPG
sorry bout the artwork

MV Saint
Haud yer wheesh't if ye cannae be nice
Joined: 12 Aug 2007
Posts: 3864
Location: Camden, Maine
Wed Apr 20, 2011 5:58 pm quote
Holger, I agree with some of your suggestions.

Though i throw a wee bit of caution with hammers

Be sure to dab a wee bit of white grease on the retainer spring. The key must be inserted into the cylinder housing prior to installing it. Off position works best.

Please check your locking cam. You said you drilled the old one out. Generally you can destroy the cam too......

Don't forget the small allen screw i mentioned above. It really should be straight forward mate. I posted a few years back with pictures, i will see if i can find it.

If you have anymore problems i have a few friends in Aberdeen, i am sure they would help you out.

Cheers
Member
1985 PX200e arcoblano elec start
Joined: 07 Apr 2010
Posts: 22
Location: Cairns, Australia
Wed Apr 20, 2011 7:33 pm quote
Advice
I use a hammer for everything the 1st time, plus I was working blind, I had to break it in order to see how it worked, I wish it wasn't always the case with me, it probably was a little heavy handed, the drilling though almost stuffed the cam , and thats a steering tube out job isn't it
MV Saint
Haud yer wheesh't if ye cannae be nice
Joined: 12 Aug 2007
Posts: 3864
Location: Camden, Maine
Wed Apr 20, 2011 9:05 pm quote
Re: Advice
ovw251 wrote:
I use a hammer for everything the 1st time, plus I was working blind, I had to break it in order to see how it worked, I wish it wasn't always the case with me, it probably was a little heavy handed, the drilling though almost stuffed the cam , and thats a steering tube out job isn't it
Yes mate, when you go that deep it's time to drop the fork

Nice sketch though

Cheers
Veni, Vidi, Posti
T5s
Joined: 19 Feb 2009
Posts: 17006
Location: The West Of Yorkshire ... Gods Country
Thu Apr 21, 2011 1:41 am quote
yum
dropping forks isnt as scary as you think bleeding brakes is the scary bit .... brake fluid will eat anything in time ... even ya gran
Member
Vespa Px 125
Joined: 19 Apr 2010
Posts: 17
Location: Aberdeen
Thu Apr 21, 2011 12:03 pm quote
**Update**
Cheers for all your help guys, esp the picture great stuff. I have managed to get the lock and housing out for the frame without drillit it again, but it appears that I may have damaged the barrel slightly by drilling too far. Can somone please take a look at my pictures and advise as not sure the best course of action from here! Cheers guys.

Lock 1.JPG
View 1

Lock 2a.JPG
View 2

MV Saint
Haud yer wheesh't if ye cannae be nice
Joined: 12 Aug 2007
Posts: 3864
Location: Camden, Maine
Fri Apr 22, 2011 4:40 pm quote
Hi Mate, Looks a wee bit messy.

I assume you have removed the horn cover, then remove the 2.5mm allen screw?

Pm me your phone number and a good time to call you.

I will be able to talk you through it.

Cheers
Enthusiast
Various
Joined: 20 Nov 2007
Posts: 51
Location: New Zealand (Christchurch)
Sat Sep 24, 2016 6:20 pm quote
Thanks to the help in this post and others on the topic, I managed to replace the ignition/steering lock on a 2007 LML 150. Sorry I'm not the best at writing instructions - some things worth mentioning, the drawing above shows the tab (which has to get over to the other side of the lip) as facing upwards, on mine it had to be at the bottom to allow the removal of the lock mechanism again if the install attempt didnít work correctly. Removal of the lock barrel and ZADI surround together is done by poking something like some firm wire bent into an 'L' shape into the tiny hole at the very bottom of the metal cylinder and pushing the little spring loaded tab up/in so you can release the whole lock barrel and ZADI surround. I made many attempts to get the new lock barrel in flush, trick in the end was the following:

(A) with the lock barrel out, move the handlebars to the left most position where you would normally lock the steering, then use a flat screwdriver inside the steering lock as a pretend key to understand where the LOCK, OFF, ON positions are and unsure that the steering does lock when you have turned the steering lock all the way anti-clockwise, (B) turn the screwdriver (pretend key) to the OFF position, then move the handlebars back into a straight-ahead position, (C) get the ZADI surround all the way in if you have removed it, (D) have the key inserted all the way into in the lock barrel, (E) grab the lock barrel, with the sprung loaded tab facing downwards, eye up the two male protruding bits at the end of the lock barrel and to make sure they are aligned with their mating female section of the steering lock, (F) have a look inside the ZADI surround and you will notice a little ramped section at the bottom which the assists with compressing the tab as you insert the lock barrel into the ZADI surround, now place the tab in the same position as the ramp and slowly start inserting the lock barrel into the ZADI surround DONT INSERT IT ALL THE WAY - STOP AT ABOUT THREE QUARTERS OF THE WAY IN, (G) using a rubber mallet to deaden the blow but provide speed - tap the end of the key (keyring end) which will provide enough speed to get the tab past the lip and into the necessary grove and hopefully not break anything during the process. If not successful the first time, take a breath and try again. The grove that the tab runs in should be free of metal if you drilled the previous lock barrel out so make sure you run something full-circle around the grove to be certain. Very satisfying in the end.
Ossessionato
2 matching N.Z. '69 VBC Super, 177cc Racer, VespaCross Bodge, Puch SRA150, Piaggio Zip 100! & others
Joined: 26 May 2013
Posts: 3811
Location: Millbin, Ostrayleea, mate
Tue Jun 11, 2019 5:55 am quote
SOLVED !!! Yip, I finally got it to work... without a hammer
Well, i stumbled on a wee pic of a wee hole & by-golly-gosh it works!

Take horncast off.
remove grub-screw so wiring comes off/out
pull on the "T" with long/needle nose pliers (just to get it out of the way a bit)
find the teeny hole underneath & poke something in it (roadside; use a cable!)
that (hopefully) pushes in the wee tab that holds the barrel in place
pull on barrel / housing / key / whatever you wedged into the lock so you can get a bit of leverage on it
out it comes... mine came out as barrel & housing (ie number 13) when i pulled in housing, but its possible for barrel to come out on its own.

No damage, not a hammer nor blowtorch were used, not even a drill!

the glovebox & seat locks have the same barrel & therefore the same wee tab, so ALL 3 locks were removed without damage.

NOTE; admin, yip, you can remove this post if you deem it a bad thing to show people how to remove the ignition on a PX...
My next post; how to hotwire a PX...
sometime inbetween; how to make 'your' key match 'their' barrel
then comes; check out this bargain PX I have for sale, 'no paperwork'

ign grub screw.jpg
yellow is grub screw to remove wires.
green on "T" was so i could remember where tab was

ign wee hole.jpg
widdle wee hole to poke something thru & push the tab in

ign tab.jpg
tab on barrel that needs to be pushed in to remove the barrel from housing

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