Successful Valve adjustment--no tupperware removed
Adjusting valves on MP3 500, how much plastic comes off?
As helpful as the above is, I felt it wasn't enough material for someone who has never done this before (like me). With the help of my neighbor Dan, we performed the valve checks without taking off the tupperware and documented the procedure. Thanks to the pioneers before me who helped make this possible.
This is of medium/hard difficulty in my estimation. Having someone to help you is a very good idea. Hand access is a big PITA and the main reason why you want the help.
Various metric wrenches and socket sets mostly with 8-10mm. Basically whatever it takes to get the 6) 10mm valve cover gaskets off and move cables out of your way for access.
The special adjustment wrenches found in the above links.
Large socket 27mm to fit and rotate driver pulley (variator).
Feeler gauges. Need .15mm, good to have .10, .15, and .20
NOTE on FEELER GAUGES: They do give you an exact dimension, but feel is a big part of the equation (hence the name). That is why it is best to have a variety so that you can FEEL what tight or loose feels like, especially if you are unfamiliar like I was. Amazing how fast you become adept at these tools by the completion of this project.
Standard and phillips screw driver.
A torque wrench is good.
A printout of the torque specs as referenced in the shop manual if you don't want to go by feel.
Work light and flashlight.
Patience and perseverance.
LET's GET STARTED
1) Place on centerstand
2) Remove left and right access panels near the pillion foot boards.
3) Remove the black plastic undercover [3) No.3 phillips screws]
4) Lift seat, remove contents in pet carrier and remove cover that is BEHIND battery compartment (2 phillips screws)
This is all the access you get, and small hands are an advantage.
5) Remove spark plus wires and label one with tape to differentiate them from each other. I marked the right one. Remove spark plugs and inspect them for wear and replace if necessary. I labeled spark plugs too.
6) There is a cable on the right side access port that is bolted down with a clamp and 8mm bolt. Unbolt it for easier access. I also unbolted and removed the fuel injector on top but it is not necessary. That was an attempt to extract the valve cover.
7) Unbolt and remove valve cover. Extract gasket from work zone as to not damage it. Valve cover will not leave work zone as it is too big. You will move the valve cover (VC) down to work on the upper(intake valves) and you will elevate the VC to work on the lower(exhaust valves).
Turn the variator nut so that the arrow on the cam sprocket is lined up with the timing mark as shown in the pic. These two actions are on opposite sides of the scoot and it is really difficult to line up by yourself and turn the variator nut at the same time.
9) Insert the .15 feeler gauge into the intake valve as shown in the pic.
Note on intake valve: They will become tight as mileage increases and will MOST LIKELY need to be adjusted looser over time.
10) Attempt to install a .20 feeler gauge if loose or a .10 if you cannot fit a .15 feeler gauge.
PERSONAL OUTCOME: Intake valves were ever so slightly tight at .15 and I made no adjustments on them.
11) Adjust valves if necessary by taking the special adjustment tool (tappet wrench I think)(the 8mm and the straight blade adjustment center). Loosen the nut (shown in picture) with the wrench while the straight blade adjustment portion is inserted in the center of the wrench and loosen (ccw) or tighten (cw) the straight blade to make the necessary adjustment. The increments we are talking are very little so the amount of turn will most likely be around an 16th-8th of a turn. WHILE you are making this adjustment you are CONSTANTLY removing and reinserting the .15 feeler gauge as that is what you are basing your final adjustment on. Tighten adjustment nut, and as you do it you want to keep the straight blade center adjustment portion of the tool from moving as this will change your adjustment. Do a final check with the .15 feeler gauge and repeat on the other intake valve.
12) The exhaust valves are exactly the same as the intakes in how you adjust them.
NOTE on exhaust valves: They tend to get loose with mileage and will MOST LIKELY need to be tightened.
PERSONAL OUTCOME: The bottom two valves were too loose (.20), and needed to be tightened.
The feeler gauge is easiest if inserted from the bottom.
13) You are pretty much done. Reassemble scoot in the opposite order you unassembled it.
14) Start up and test drive, check for leaks.
Pet carrier access.
Left side access port.
Spark plug wires marked for identification. Don't know if it matters but did it anyway. I think it would matter.
Let the work begin.
Valve cover off to the right and low. Good view of what needs to happen. Sorry I missed a picture of the arrow on the cam sprocket.
27mm socket to rotate the cam for proper orientation for valve checks.
View from above via pet carrier access.
Shows the harder to reach valves from the left side.
Last edited by mjm50cal on Sun May 29, 2011 11:07 pm; edited 1 time in total