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Bi-Xenon (HID) Projector Kit Retrofit
Caution: Encountered a problem with this specific D2H bulb used in this install running too hot and deforming the Projector shroud. I'm working supplier to remedy, Sept. 21, 2010. Update: Supplier indicates that the D2H bulbs can vary in the amount of thermal output (heat) and will reach out to vendors to secure a "cooler" D2H bulb.

UPDATE: Problem remedied by using a 5K bulb vs. 6K. 5K is the maximum that should be used in any vehicle. Secondly, unlike an incandescent bulb you should not have the high beam on during daylight running and use the high beam only when necessary.

Througout this DIY there will be a list of TIPS and Question and Answers (Q&A) that will help in your efforts to complete a Projector Retrofit.

SAFETY TIP: Before handling (connecting / disconnecting) electrical plugs or wiring disconnect your battery and tape off the end of the wire connector or terminal. Wear protective eye shields.
Question: If I have a pre-existing HID unit installed do I need to get a whole new Projector Kit to upgrade?

Answer: No. You may be able to simply secure a Projection Unit, bulb and shroud to upgrade to a Projector Unit. Hence, you would retain your current ballast and wiring harness. Otherwise a complete Projector Kit would be needed.

Question: This installation would seem to work for other types of vehicles...ATV's, snowmobiles, etc.

Answer: Yes. The basics of the DIY can be carried over to other installs. For specifics approach Projector Retrofit suppliers (i.e. The Retrofit Source).

COMPONENTS OF A PROJECTOR RETROFIT KIT:

1. Projection Unit (clear lens and solenoid)
2. The “bulb” (Xenon D2H bulb @ varying lumens)
3. Ballast (comes with "T" mounting bracket if needed)
4. Wiring Harness
5. Shroud




PROJECTOR RETROFIT PROCESS IN FOUR PARTS:
Headlight Lens Separation, Projector Unit Installation, Wiring, Leveling of Cut Off and Height Adjustment


What follows is a step-by-step process to complete my Projector Retrofit in a GT200. As with any modification "milegage does vary" by type and model of headlight assembly. Please carefully review these steps prior to attempting a Projector retrofit. If the process cannot be completed by yourself, work with your kit suppler and/or find an retrofitter in your area.

1. Headlight Lens Separation:

You will need to remove the handlebar / headset cover, reveiw these links for the GT / GTS model: GT/GTS: Headset Cover Removal & GT/GTS: Headset Removal Video

This is the headlight removed from the headset cover.

TIP: Keep like screws and parts together. Tape and label.



Headlight is comprised of three parts: lens, reflector bowl and casing.



You will need to have a platform for your headlight to be placed in an oven. I used wooden shims and taped them together. Wet this platform prior to use.



Make sure headlight sits securely on platform. I preheated oven to 250 degrees (F) and then placed middle rack for 10 minutes (I did this twice before I was able to separate lens from housing. The temp and time does vary. Be careful and avoid the high end tempeature as it could deform the lens or casing. Few have opted to use a heat gun, if you do use the low setting.

Question: How did you end up with 250 degrees (F) @ 10 minutes?

Answer: You can check online an you'll find a variety of recommendations. One recommendation (MV'er) was 175 degrees (F) @ 10 minutes and some have been too high for my comfort level. I started at 200 degrees (F) @ 10 minutes and ended up with 250 degrees @ 10 minutes (I baked headlight twice). Exercise caution in baking your headlight.



Be careful, wear gloves when removing the lens from the casing. I used a pair of welders gloves handling the baked headlight. Be patient when prying the lens loose from housing. The casing is of a softer material than the lens and will be prone to getting nicked.



Pry lens by using two large flat screw drivers. Be patient and exercise caution.



As the lens separates keep one blade in place to keep lens and casing separated. Silicone will still remain on lens and casing surface...leave it alone as you will reheat and reseat lens to housing.



I know this doesn't look appealing but will not be visible since the casing (nicked portion) will sit within the handle bar cover.




With the lens removed from the casing you can now proceed to remove the reflector bowl from the casing.

TIP: There are two areas of chrome coating that you need to be aware of, the reflector bowl and a rim of chrome that sits within the lens. These will scratch and/or rub off easily. Don't use a microfiber cloth to wipe the bowl or the lens chrome piece...use a soft cotton cloth (old T shirt). I opted to paint the reflector bowl flat black so scratching the chrome coating on the reflector bowl was a non-issue.

Question: Since the Projector "projects" a beam, is a reflective surface on the reflector bowl necessary?

Answer: No. Hence you can paint it whatever color you want and I would recommend going that route since it's really difficult to not scratch the relector bowl chrome coating. The reflector bowl is really the platform to hold your Projector unit.



2. Projector Unit Installation:

With the lens separated from the casing you will have access to the reflector.

Reflector can be removed by backing out "the" headlight adjustment screw (counter clockwise). Adjustment screw will “pop” out of ball socket.

Adjustment screw removed from casing.



The adjusment screw ball socket.



You then can back out the two side adjustment screws (counter clockwise) these will also "pop" out of their ball socket. This will release the reflector from the headlight casing.



At this point it would be appropriate to introduce the Projector unit in detail since you'll now affix it to the reflector bowl

Sequence of rings and washers. Note: I replaced the white silicone grommet with "O" ring to increased seating depth of the Projector unit. The increased depth into the was needed to insure that the lens of Projector unit did not come in contact with the inside surface of the headlight lens (this would affect beam cut off height adjustment). This clearance will be addressed further in the install process.



TIP: I opted to "weld" a small piece of aluminum, 1/8" square aluminum cut to an "L" tab (found in hobby shops) to the H4 adapter with JB weld. This will provide a way to hold the H4 adapter in place when cinching down lock nut and keep the projector on the correct horizontal plane (parallel) to the horizon.





TIP: Cut 1/4" strips of electrical tape and spiral wrap the low/high beam pigtal wire from Projector to protect from chafing.








Getting back to the Projector installation...the Projector will not fit into the opening of the reflector bowl and will have to be enlarged.



I enlarged the opening to this point and subsequently ground past this lip and "chamfered" (ground at an angle) to provide more depth for the Projector unit.



Enlarged opening with chamfered opening.



"O" (1/8" diameter ring, 1 1/8" I.D., 1 3/8" O.D.) ring drops into chamfered opening.






Reflector bowl was then sanded and painted flat black.

TIP: Use a bucket of water as a bath basin and Scotch pad to scrub and remove chrome coating. Dry and spray paint to color of choice.

Put reflector bowl away for now. Will need to now work on securing shroud to Projector housing.



Enlarge shroud opening so shroud slides over Projector. Mark points where you need to grind down notches 5 & 7 o'clock position to seat shroud evenly on Projector housing.







Make some "mini" shims out of tooth picks to wedge shroud to Projector housing and apply silicone at the bottom 5, 6 and 7 o'clock and then at the 10 and 2 o'clock positions.







Allow the silicone to set properly overnight. While the silicone was allowed to set and cure, I opted to reinforce the reflector bowl opening (back end) with JB Weld.

Note the detent / notch. This is where the "L" tab was fabricated earlier and JB welded to the H4 adapter plate.





Once the shroud / Projector housing and the reinforced bowl opening are cured properly you can proceed to secure the complete shrouded Projector unit to the reflector bowl.

TIP: As you cinch down the locking rings, I would recommend using a banded wrench versus pliers or channel locks. The ring is cast aluminum and you do not want to crack this locking ring.









After seating the bulb in place it should be cinched down and fit securely . I measured the backend depth of the connected bulb and wired connector and compared to my previous HID there was more than enough clearance.

Old HID bulb connection required ~1 3/4" clearance.



New Projector and D2H bulb required ~1 1/4" clearance.



Don't forget the rubber boot. You'll need to trim to fit.





You can put this assembly to the side and move on to wiring.

Question: What about reseating the lens?

Answer: The lens will be reseated after we align the Projector beam cut off via alignment of the reflector bowl in Step 4.

3. Wiring:

TIP: You can work in your wiring anytime after you've removed the headlight and have some downtime. You will need to remove the glove box panel reveiw these links for the GT /GTS model: GT/GTS: Glovebox Removal GT/GTS: Glovebox Removal Video Tutorial and the battery cover.

The wiring process not difficult. However carefully review how you want your final wiring to be configured. You may want easy on access to the in-line fuse which is in-lined to a short wire that attaches to your (+) battery terminal. I prefer a direct to battery connection.

I took the kit harness and cut the in-line fuse and lengthened the wire. Then fished it into the engine compartment and has it placed near the Master Fuse. I butt connected the wire to the in-line fuse wire (connector end). Then I butt connected same length of wire to be fished back to the battery. Prior the doing this I used electrical tape and spiral wrapped the wire (for added protection). This will allow easy access to inspect the Projector fuse.

TIP: You can fabricate a "fishing" wire simply by picking up some stainless leader wire at a fishing supply store. You'll need about 2 1/2 to 3'...loop one end (you don't need it to be heavy duty). The wire (spring steel) will hold up very well and allow you to fish the wire thru and then affix the end of your electircal wire and pull thru. Be careful when using and wear protective eye wear...as mentioned in the introduction.



The ballast can be mounted where you have space. You can either use the "T" bracket or use double-sided tape. I opted to mount it on the flat shelf with double-sided tape behind the left knee panel. The length of the pig tails from the ballast is adequate to connect to headlight.






The rest of the is intiutive. Here is where the wiring from the ballast has been connected to the headlight housing. Conduct a test to confirm connections are in order. At this point you can button up the glove box panel as you will be working the alignment of headlight (reflector bowl).



At this point you now have an operational Projector unit...however the next steps are very important and care should be taken to insure proper (A) Alignment of a level cut off beam and (B) cut off height adjustment.

4. Leveling of Cut Off and Height Adjustment:

Note: With every installation "mileage may vary" and likewise adjustment of beam cut off alignment and height will vary. The following will provide some pointers to achieve proper cut off alignment and height adjustment. This it is not a definitive solution to what you may encounter.

Find a spot 25' from a smooth white or off white wall. Mount your headlight assembly to your scoot and turn on your headlight. Do not be disappointed by the alignment or height, you may need to adjust both.

A. Alignment:

A level cut off beam should have been accomplished by the proper mounting of the Projector to reflector bowl. However, this may still need some minor tweaking and you should be prepared to adjust the horizontal cut off (parallel to the horizon). This is the reason for not yet reseating the headlight lens to the headlight casing.

TIP: By following the aforementioned (Part 2 Projection Unit Installation) "welding" of the "L" tab to the H4 adapter plate. This tab may help keep the H4 adapter aligned. You may still achieve success by not using a "welded L" tab.

With the alignment completed you can move on to height adjustment.

B. Height Adjustment:

Understand that the height of the cut off is as follows:

"At the same mark off a position 25 feet from a smooth surfaced wall. Measure the distance of your Projector from ground level, i.e. 40" then subtract 2" = ~ 38". Place a strip of tape at 38" above ground height on the wall (make sure that your tires are inflated properly and your scoot is not "under weight"). Your cut off should be at the level of the tape or ~ 38"."

Note: My installed beam height was ~ 24" above ground level. Using the adjustment screw to increase height, the adjustment screw topped off and "popped" out of the ball socket before reaching the 38" cut off height. Removed the headlight and took apart the reflector from the casing and opted to adjust the reflector angle (beam height) via the two reflector adjusment screws at the top of the casing. I also opted to leave "the" adjustment screw at 1/2" (exposed thread) to allow fine tuning of height adjustment after initial adjustment. After several adjustments with the top two adjustment screws a I achieved a beam height of 38" and used "the" adjustment screw to fine tune to a final height of 37".

The top two adjustment screw ball socket housings were cut down by 1/8"to insure I did not "bottom" out as I adjusted the reflector back and up.





This is "the" adjustment screw set at 1/2".



After several attempts the top two adjustment screws were also at 1/2" to result in a cut off beam height of 38". The adjustment screw was used to lower an additional inch to a cut off beam height of 37".



Once you are satisfied with the overall adjusment you can proceed to reseating your headlight lens to headlight casing.

Clean lens with soft cloth prior to reseating. I prefer heating the lens and casing residual silicone with a heat gun versus baking. Spot fill gaps with silicone. I preferred to use rotating hand pressure (use gloves) to reseat lens the used large rubber bands to hold lens in place overnight.

TIP: In place of large rubber bands you can use strips of a bicycle tire tube. Clamps, cord, rubber tubing are difficult to hold onto rounded surface of lens.



Install headlight housing into headset cover and button up scoot.



Completed DIY and Results:





HID Projector Retrofit (6K) with dual color; amber turn and white running (5K)



Night shot: Low beam headlights only no running lights. No glare due to cut off at ~38". Note: Night ride...~ 12 - 15' behind Toyota Corolla...cut off at top of trunk lid...no projection into cabin or rear view mirror



Note: Tripod set to left of scoot - low beam follow by high beam.





Cut off beam low and high.



Last Updated Wed Jun 19, 2013 8:06 am
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